nanxun

Hey guys. So, I've got a situation that I need some help/input/advice on. Here are the details:

1. Exactly 3 weeks ago, picked up a used '07 Acura TL with 60,510 miles on the ODO. Purchased a 90 day/3k mile warranty for an additional $150, which covers most major systems and parts (engine, drive train, electrical system, suspension, etc.) which aren't regular "consumables" (rotors, pads, motor mounts, etc.) (and labor to replace).

2. I parked the car in economy parking at the local airport (Dulles here in the DC area) for 48 hours during a recent business trip. When I returned from the trip yesterday afternoon (Sat. 3/18), the car wouldn't start. Just repeated clicking, which indicated to me a problem with a weak or old battery. Got a jump and drove home. Car's been starting normally (7-8 times) without any problems for the past 24 hours (today's Sun. 3/19).

3. The battery in the car is the original from the factory with a CCA rating of 550. Had it tested at a local auto parts store, and it seems good: 12.59 volts, 534 CCA (see printout on left in photo below). Could be replaced in a year or so, but is performing acceptably for now. Also, the battery warning light on the dash did not light-up. Battery posts and cables are all clean (not corroded).

4. The starter seems fine and is cranking normally. The problem seems to be the alternator, which apparently has a healthy voltage (14.31 volts w/out load, 14.19 volts loaded) but doesn't seem to be sending any current (0.0 amps) to the battery. (see printout on right in photo below) But again, the battery warning light on the dash is not lit.

First question: Does this diagnosis (alternator needs to be replaced) seem accurate to you? Or is it the battery? (Or perhaps both the alternator AND the battery?)

Second question: Would you recommend a rebuilt aftermarket, rebuilt OEM, or brand new OEM alternator? And how much do each of those typically cost to replace?

Folks on this AZ thread from 2013 "Replacing alternator with OEM or rebuilt???" seem to be saying $325-$400 for an OEM alternator (not incl. labor) and about $200 for aftermarket (via RockAuto?)

Any feedback would be most welcome and greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for reading.

Since I've got the warranty (with a $50 deductible for EACH repair visit!), I want to minimize the number of times I take the car in to the stealership to resolve this issue.

peter6

During Cranking your amps are at 0. That's great starter. It doesn't need any current to turn the engine.

Seriously, they don't have/didnt use amp clamp while doing the test. Machine couldn't measure it, so it printed out 0 amps, and dashes in charging test.

Voltage at the battery is around 14, it they did load test correctly (high beams and blower motor at max), it seems your alternator is healthy.

What I would do is look for a parasitic draw. Our HFL modules like to steal all pixies from the battery when they go bad. Tell them to do that, or buy amp clamp online (around $30 should be accurate enough).


Also...
Was that cold during that day? My battery is aftermarket and has 4 years right now. I tested it out around 50F, and while rated at 600 it scored 580 amps.

But when temp was close to 0F, after sitting over night, car barely started. Summer is coming so I won't be replacing it any time soon.
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nanxun

Thanks for your response, peter6. Yeah, I figured something was up with those 0.0 amp readings across the board.

Some additional details:
1. when testing the system under load, we revved it (to about 3k rpms) and held it, with the high beams on, but not the blower/fan.
2. temp today is about 46' F--not particularly cold; however, it was probably in the 30s during the 2 days (and even colder during the 2 nights) when the car was parked at the airport, but in the 60s the day we came back and it wouldn't start.
3. Upon taking possession of the car, I immediately disabled its HFL system after reading about the parasitic drain issues (here on AZ).
4. Finally, the warranty should cover this but there's a $50 deductible for EACH repair visit! So, I'm trying to minimize the number of times I have to take the car in to the stealership to resolve this issue.