The dealer wants 600 bux, the local joint wants 400. Is it doable at home, and would it be worth it?

Thanks for any help!

 

Not too much of a job, remove battery and tray, but make certain you have the audio codes.
Rock Auto $128-$208
AutoZone $160-$170

 

I replaced my starter at home (well, technically, at a friend's house where my starter died).

I did what Turbonut said to do.
I just wonder if you can replace the starter from under the car, though.

 

Take your starter off & take it to a rebuild shop, let them repair it. The OEM starter is much superior to the replacement units sold by parts stores.

 

All the cores would be the same, but the quality of a rebuild is the question. Some will replace only what is needed while others replace the probable wear items. I've seen remanufactured starters that the rebuilder didn't even clean out the case.
Just an example, info on the Beck/Arnley unit with a 3year/50000 mile warranty.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1999866

 

one of the easiest jobs to do

 

+1

What is wrong with your starter? Is it sticking after the start? This happened to my 04 MDX (very common with Acura) and I made the mistake of replacing the oem myself with a crappy rebuild from NAPA. The third time I started the car, it was making the same noise. Brought it in to a mechanic who said the rebuilt NAPA starter was crap.

Fortunately I had never returned my oem for a refund on the core charge. The mechanic had my oem rebuilt and I returned the NAPA one.

The POS from NAPA used to shake the whole car when starting.

 

Did anyone have problems loosening/breaking the actual starter bolts? I have removed the battery, tray and disconnected the wires, but can't get the bolts to turn. Any suggestions?

2006 Acura TL

 

They will be very tight!! At least very hard to break loose, like all bolts/nuts on Honda, Toyota products. Make sure you have the correct
METRIC socket or wrench, put a cheater pipe or something on the wrench if you have room to use it or put the box end of your wrench
on the bolt & smack the end of the wrench repeatedly till it breaks loose
(if you have room to strike it).
The OEM core you trade in is not the rebuilt unit you will buy, usually
you are sold a cheaply made copy POS. Same with rebuilt alternators, have your oem rebuilt. MY experience.

 

Dang^^^^^^ I thought I was old Just kidding

 

It's all in the quality of the rebuild. If you do this, make sure it's a shop with a good reputation. I've had rebuilt starters fail just like the parts store units.

Replacing a starter is an easy task. Just have the manual in-hand while doing the work in case you aren't sure of yourself.

 

Thanks for the thread...the battery tray is tricky, but with your heads up just kept at it and made it happen, the starter was out in a flash...awesome thread thanks again!!

 

DIY it!

 

quick add on a heads up, be careful when reconnecting the positive lead from the battery to the solenoid, the fitting is plastic and you can easily( I did) over torque in and break the plastic housing on the solenoid. Luckily I bought the rebuilt starter from a starter shop, he laughed said it happens more frequently than I know, and charged me $20 bucks and gave me a new one and said to go easy on the wrench this time...anyway be careful and don't over torque...

 

Just put a new starter in my 2006 Acura TL. $93, with shipping (TYC produced starter). New, not reconditioned, lifetime warranty, from RockAuto. Factory one lasted 8 years, 147,000 miles, many thousands of starts. Took 1 hour 15 minutes, start to finish. Removing/installing battery box took an hour of that. Don't expect the battery box to fall out anytime soon. If the Fukushima engineers had put 1/10th of the engineering into the reactor placement and design that the Acura engineers put into this battery box, we wouldn't be eating radioactive fish now.

My Dad is a mechanic, and I grew up wrenching. Don't do everything myself (i.e., right knuckle assembly after kissing a curb I left to my local shop, as it was a big job, needed alignment, etc.). Seriously, the starter itself on this car was CAKE. The battery box was the real pain in the a$$. If needed go the the "need help on removing battery box ASAP thread--it is crucuial in getting this thing done.

Very pleased so far with the RockAuto starter (use them for >80% of my repair parts). It fires fast, firm. Thanks to everyone on here for the prior experience/pointers to do this job!! If someone on here computer literate can post some detailed photos/video of the removal, once you know how, the battery box removal only takes 5-10 minutes. YouTube is OK for some of these jobs, but not this one. Their video simply says "remove the battery box", not a bit of help. Thanks again!

 

Didn't want to start a new thread. So I did a search.
My 06 TL starter just failed.
For those interested, here's a youtube link on how to remove the battery tray:

and a link on how to test the starter, once you get it out.

The price of a remanufactured OEM is still very high plus the cost of the core charge/deposit.
I too like others above buy from Rockauto and I've looked at the brands they are selling.

But I'm interested in having my original that I just took out rebuilt. Does anyone know the cost associated with having it done? The other thing is finding a reputable shop.

Just to get an idea of what it would cost to buy the OEM, I called my local Acura dealership parts, the guy says that the remanufactured unit is $355.00 and if I bring in the old unit, they'll credit me back $50.00. I think he probably means $355 + 50 up front. He sounded like he had difficulty understanding what he's seeing on the computer screen.

I also called Delray (acuraoemparts.com) they have the remanufactured OEM unit for $228+$22 (s/h) ~250 plus there is a core charge of $50. So once I receive the unit from them, I have to pay to have the older unit ship back to them to collect back my $50.
New unit from them $317.00.

 

You can also read this:
Rebuild your starter for less than $20 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

 

You're welcome

 

I've rebuilt starters before (not on the TL), it's just a matter of finding the good brushes 98% of the time.

 

I can actually chime in here- I haven't replaced a starter on a car, ever, and was able to do it as per the video above in about 90 minutes (yesterday AM after being on in the ER the night before, so no sleep)- I didn't go the OEM route but used a NAPA Premium replacement starter with lifetime warranty for $120 + tax (they sell a standaard one and premium rebuilt type). I accessed the under battery tray bolt using a very long extension from above. It's a pretty easy job.

Ideally, you need a breaker bar with the 17 mm socket to break the starter bolts free- they're very tight.

 

Thanks guys.
Polobunny I checked out that site. Interesting.

erdoc48, I agree it was a breeze except for the two screws located under the battery tray. I did exactly as you did by following the instructions in the video.

Tomorrow I'm going to check out an Auto place on Ralph ave here and see about having my unit rebuilt. The guy says they do it. They'll check the unit out first and determined what needs to be done, with a price for the work.

I hope they are rebuilding it and not swapping it out for some cheap copy. I like to know it's my shell and the defective parts inside has been swapped out.

 

Just snap a picture of serial number and you'll know. Generally rebuild shops already have ready starters from other TLs, they just give you one and take your and work on that one to sell it to someone else. I know some websites also do it, as in they charge you like 50$ more on your order and once you ship your old starter, they refund you.

 

Its easy. Only time consuming part is removing the metal battery tray bolts and reinserting them.

 

or buy OEM one

Aftermarket ones are crap.... just browse this forum to see how many have replaced those junk starters

 

Does anyone know where I can get just the replacement brushes for the starter.
Took the unit apart. Cleaned out the Armature housing, armature and contacts with mineral spirits. Quite a lot of carbon dust was in the unit. Since I didn't have replacement carbon brushes (4) on hand I just put it back together and tested it. Tested fine. Motor and clutch. I haven't installed it yet.

The brush length is just about the service limit.

That old link to the Integra forum is for the contacts only. Checked out ebay for brushes only, but it's like hit or miss as to what they are selling.

If you look at the online acura dealers selling parts, the brush holder is $88 dollars. It's just a piece of plastic holding the brushes. Unreal.

Many videos on youtube about so called "rebuilding" or "re-manufactured", is just cleaning out and replacing brushes. That is why your old unit is worth a lot.

 

Google starter rebuild kit. you really should replace all of the parts that are in the rebuild kit

Starter Motor Brush Plate Repair Kits

 

Your link is to a motorcycle kit.

If you download the pdf of the workshop manual for Gen 3 TL, it goes through step by step how to check each component found in the starter (4-7).

Take a look at this video on service/rebuilding starters:
Listen to what he says about eight times out of ten what the problem usually is.

For the 2006 TL the brushes could easily be replaced, IF they were made available. It's so freaking simple, it pisses you off because they make you buy that cap that holds the brushes. $89.00. A real joke.

Once you remove the two long bolts, the components can be removed. You can check the armature/communicator. Clean out the armature housing for carbon deposit. You will find quite a lot. Check the brush holder (plastic) which is held in place by two little screws to the end cap. Clean the leads and contacts of any carbon deposit. The only difficulty is finding the right size carbon brushes for replacement. The springs are in excellent condition. The carbon brushes looks to be square. Like any motor the brushes are usually the issue having worn down.
For you to get the brushes they force you to buy the brush holder. It's plastic and is probably worth $10. But they have it listed for $89.00. Go figure huh.

check out the pricing from this online dealer:
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...ll&vinsrch=yes

 

That bottom stater bolt certainly was a beast to break loose. Make sure you use a breaker bar, a 1/4" drive extension and a 17mm socket. A cheater pipe around the breaker bar wouldn't hurt either.

 

YES! At the very least a breaker bar, 1/4" drive extension, and 17mm socket.
The battery tray takes the most amount of time simply because of the location of one certain bolt. I went underneath the wheel well to access the bolt. Once you take out that certain bolt and take out the battery tray, one bit of advice is to take that battery tray and cut those bottom holes into slots. So when you place back the battery tray, the bottom bolts only have to be tightened. Also makes the starter replacement easier for the next time.

 

see attached pics

 

Last time I took that horrible tray out, I just left one of the super hard to get bottom bolts out. With the other remaining bolts in tight, the battery is supported fine.

 

Tape the bolt to the socket with Scotch tape, it will hold the bolt, and will assist to get the bolt threaded in.

 

So which Rock Auto starter would you guys recommend?

 

I had used an AutoZone Duralast starter on my 2004 TSX many years ago. It now has 239,000 miles and still starts fine. So I bought the AutoZone Duralast starter for my 2006 TL as well.

 

Yeah, I'm literally in my garage doing this right now, and shockingly, this is an easy, easy project.

changing the headlight bulbs? That's impossible. Starter? 20 minute job. Go figure

 

anyone know if these brushes would work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Repair-Kit-Brushes-Brush-Holder-For-Mitsuba-Acura-Honda-/371639403745?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

 

Piggybacking on this thread rather than starting my own.

Car can clutch start just fine, battery seems fine (although I haven't done a voltage measurement on it). Ignition goes to start and you get a single click, Nav resets, but lights do not dim. I disconnected the ~16/18ga butt fitting wire on top of the starter/solenoid, and did not receive the click.

Starter, yeah? I think this might be the original unit.

EDIT - I will say there were absolutely no symptoms leading up to this. Started fine in the parking lot, I stalled on a speed hump waiting for someone to come across the road, and declined to start again conventionally.

 

Just did this job on my 2005 TL with 127,000. If you turn the ignition and the dash lights up, its not the ignition switch. Also you should be able to hear a quite click by your feet - if you do, you know its not the relay switch. So it is the starter that is the problem. To take the pain in a@@ back battery holder out, I placed a mini mag light resting on the starter facing the direction of the battery bolt, then I used my wife's compact mirror to see the bolt with one hand. I then used the slimmest ratchet extender with the 12 mm until it grabbed with the other hand. Prior to doing this I sprayed the large bolts holding the starter to the engine with- wd40. Used braker bar on the top bolt- no problem. The bottom bolt I could not use the braker bar since the one I have does not have a ratchet and there is limited space because of air filter. Instead I had to use the largest ratchet I with large pipe over the end. Took about 1 hour and 45 minutes and I am no gear head. I bought the auto zone new-on sale. I will let you know if it lasts.

 

I got a rebuild starter from Advance Auto for $95 with a 50% discount coupon a few years ago for my then 75K miles '06, the car currently has 115K iwith that starter so a vote for a rebuild from AA.

 

This thread was super helpful so I figured I'd make a post in case my story helps anyone else out.

2005 6MT with 128k. No symptoms up until the starter actually went out, just came back to it after driving it all day and all of a sudden no crank. I was about ready to just bump start it but I clutched in and out several times and got it started again so thought it might be the clutch inhibitor switch going bad. Drove it normally back home. Went out the next morning to go to work and no crank again. But again, I kept clutching in and out and got it started. Finally that evening, as soon as I got it back home and turned it off I couldn't get it going unless I bump started it. Bypassed the clutch inhibitor switch, but still no crank. Switched out the starter relay, no crank. Battery had been recently replaced, terminals were clean and neither the headlights or interior lights dimmed when I turned the key so I ruled that out. All of this finally pointed to the starter and I decided that I'd try to do it myself after researching on here. Ordered a new aftermarket starter from Rock Auto (only one new option for the manual trans), and used the video linked above as my guide.

As commented before the battery tray was the most annoying part. The video recommended getting to that last hidden bolt from underneath the car, but I just attached the socket to a 10 in extension and guided it to the bolt by touch. Once I got it on there I attached the ratchet and it came out easy. A breaker bar is a MUST for the starter bolts. Other than that, it was very straightforward. Only other note is to be very careful with all of the plastics. They were super brittle from their age and from years of Texas heat, so the cable holder on the left side of the battery box snapped off when I tried to reattach the cable and a plastic piece fell behind the radiator fan. The longest part of the whole job was fishing that out

Haven't heard anything negative about this aftermarket starter (POWER SELECT 17899N), but I'm going to have the OEM one rebuilt and keep it around just in case. The starter ran $100, and I bought a breaker bar and socket extensions from Harbor Freight so all in about $130 and an hour of time.