Looking to transfer ownership of 2006 TL and need DMV to process safety inspection. Turns out i need upper control arms and lower in the front. As well rear stabilizer bar linkage rear left and rear right.

Thought of buying part at Rock auto never had problem with motor mount i bought in the past. Anyone have part brand recommendation for upper lower control arms?

Suspensia looks okay
SKP
Centric
Mevotech has supreme version with grease fittings. Don't want the maintenance hassle greasing the suspension.
FVP
ACDelco
Delphi

Can't purchase same brand for all the parts since stock is unavailable upper control arms both sides is the problem.

Only want to get the both upper, lower control arms to pass safety and the two rear link for the stabalizer bar.

 

Best is OEM. Will last longest time. If you plan to keep car for long time it's probably cheaper in the long run. I'm biased here but I hate the feeling of aftermarket parts. Most of the ball joints / tie rods feel like they have sand in them.

So far only luck I had with aftermarket parts on my car are autozone "gold" brakes. On other cars than TL the "555" ball joints from Napa seem nice. Didn't try them on my car, but they are made in Japan and didn't have a single car come back on warranty so far. Everything else aftermarket that I tried on my car failed quickly. Mevotech "super premium" lower ball joints for $50 each lasted 17k miles before one of them decided to seize up so bad it was hard to steer.

Don't call the dealer, as they will give you "list" prices, but try websites like oemacuraparts or acurapartsforless, etc.

Why you need lower arms? Bushings are bad? You can buy oem bushings and press them in. Cheaper than whole OEM arms, more work, but you end up with OEM quality.

 

In Canada you have to get a vehicle inspected before you can sell it?

Does that mean if you can no longer buy parts for a vehicle you cannot sell it? Does this protocol go for being allowed to keep a car on the road?

In 'Merica you can chop a car up 100 different ways, slap some bald dry rotted tires on it and send it on its way! Good you sell, bad for buyer. Buy at least you arnt handcuffed as to what you can do to it.

 

Lower control arm when leveraged with pry bar has up and down movement at one of the bushings. Have almost no front to back wheel movement on either front tires. So wear is confusing but safety check showed me bushings or control arm needs replacement as upper control arms. I would be driving forever with current setup feeling no problems. Only because of safety inspections and title transfer to family member i got to change out the control arms. Pressing them out need a tool kit and never done it before. Afraid with my luck pressing new bushings or removing older ones i will have difficulty.

Stupid thing about this safety inspection was i have Continental summer DW tires made in Feb 2011 tread is fine. Real safety issue is the tires are old and dangerous in wet. Safety inspections has no issues with tires. Anyone knows tires after 6 years time to replace no matter how much tread is left. Ask Paul Walker driving his red Porsche Carrera GT driving with old tires loss of control at high speeds is common. Yet safety says tread is fine but many know change the old tires regardless for ones safety. I guess i need to drive real slow and wait for my new winter continentals to speed things up on the road.

Maybe give the bushing a try.. Got more time then money.. Thanks for links maybe try Honda dealership for same parts if any are applicable since the dealer is bit cheaper then Acura.

 

Yes you need to safety it before selling or transferring registration to a family member. You need to fix the problem that safety has no choice to reject through government criteria. Look section 2 under suspension in link below. Means that in order to be registered old or not following guidelines need to be implemented.

https://www.ontario.ca/files/2022-03...2022-03-18.pdf

 

State side we have chain auto parts stores called O'Riley's and Autozone(Vatozone). You can rent these tools at either if you have them there. Vatozone is better because its free to rent, you only have to pay a small amount for a deposit and its 100% returned(even if the item is beat up looking after). They let you "rent" the tools for 3 months at a time as well. There are many guides here that can help you with this job.

 

Going with rear Moog grease fitting stabilizer links Right and Left. from rock-auto about $70 cdn including tax, delivered versus OEM rear links are $76 + each...Guess now i need to buy grease gun, heard Moog links are better wear less then OEM.

Found front upper control arm at auto wrecker stamped SEPL looks good bushing moves tight. Can pick it up for $65 maybe get couple lower control arms or back seat head rest one is missing from child seat instal.

Got good quote fpr OEM upper control arms $192 or $216.96 cdn each. Beats few prices from mevotech supreme line from local parts store at $216+ tax each.

One Compliance bushing cost OEM is $101 cdn+ tax on back order.

Seen few videos of instal pressing the bushings in control arm mechanic advised best to buy ready costing not that much.
Moog lower control arms rockatuto for 128.74 cnd + tax delivery.
Is Moog control lower arms better AC Delco?
MOOG lower control arm

 

Dam 49er, you've been here since the beginning to 2004? Thats awesome, I remember the power went out at school that winter cause a squirrel chewed through a main cable. All 78 students had to go home. That winter, my careers teacher told us if you shoot an intruder and they are outside your home, pull em into the door. A Swell fella he was! Quite swill as well.

None of what I said matters. Mod, erase this please.

 

The moog links last longer. but are they a harsher ride?

 

Thoughts about Mevotech lower control arms are cast steel vs Moog which are forged? Seen video of Moog quality not being great with lower control arm compared to AC delco part. Mevotech lower arms maybe alternative..

Anyone think Mevotech rear stabilizer links TTX or supreme line OE better then MOOG?

Rear Links

 

Ordered all dealer OEM acura parts. Upper control arms, compliant bushings, rear stabilizer links. My hope is the other lower control arm bushings are good condition.

Here tool found for complaint bushing on ebay.

Tool press

Anyone know the TL complaint bushing size? 65mm or 74mm for the right press socket to use. Seen youtube of self made press using a deep socket 2 1/8" with washers and bolt for honda bushings will it work for TL?

 

Finished pressing complacent bushings both lower control arms. Took the axle nut off. Didn’t see it move while working on the control arms.

Finished upper control arms and rear links. Although do have more movement in stabilizer bar then before. Need to get stabilizer bar bushing to fix the problem.

once finished I drove the car out of my garage and check engine light, vsa light are on. I restarted the car driving it back into the garage up hill but car had no power in Drive.
put it in low gear it moved.

reving car in park or neural no power.

Great DIY with suspension now got bigger problems.

think cv boot is partially out while working on car? Explains the Christmas tree lights in the car..

 

Also forgot to mention i turned on the key but car wasn't running to shift the transmission into neutral then turning the key off.After finishing my work on suspension i turned on the ignition key postion engine not running back into park.

Do a transmission reset and ecu? Solve my issues with the vast check engine lights?

 

I’m no mechanic, but did you happen to mess with the axles? Sounds like that could be the issue. As far as the lights on dash, did you unplug any sensors while performing the work you did?

 

Sometimes working on car to long for days on end best to take fresh start next day.

Got my scanner Bluedrive ready but thought i needed to erase ECU back to fresh start and transmission.

After doing the reset i had all the lights on so i scanned the modules entire car and recent faults.
Throtle Postion sensor code came up which gave me clue on why. As you said Slpr04UA6 recheck the top engine strut stabilizer bar i removed in my work with the upper control arms. The bar has TPMS sensor attached to the bar which i removed the fastener. While it was put back i didn't notice the TPMS sensor was slightly unplugged from working on the car. Duh... So i refastened the other bar bolts ECU better and TPMS sensor which are connected with clamps to the strut tower engine bar.

After restarting the car VSA lights were gone but check engine stayed on. With the Bluedriver OB11 scanner i erased all codes.

After the code erased the check engine light is not on. Success!

Drove to the dealer for more parts rear stabilizer bushings and clamps but no bolts.. Will pickup parts tomorrow will see if the rear stabilzer bar will stop moving with the bushings otherwise after the new rear links installed i'm at a loss why the bar is moving slightly when car is up on jacks.

Wish me luck after wrenching on the car over 3 days with upper control arms and lower control arm complacent bushings pressing and rear stabilzer links install.










Since i changed the throttle control sensor no more year ago i needed to investigate further.

 

^Glad it was something simple for the lights. Crazy how some lights show up for a reason, then others do for no reason. Good thing you have a code scanner, and could reset them.

 

Installed the rear stabilizer bushings and clamps. First rusted bolt 12mm broke off the head. Could not remove the bolt. Finished installing the remainder of the bushing only one side iof the clamp is not fasten. Drilled out the hole but remainder of the bolt is lodged inside the sleeve. Had enough the stabilizer bar links slightly move seen no difference on the other side of the car with full clamp bolts for bushings are installed. My mechanic to busy to work on it asking me later next week.