2004 acura TL no start and no codes !

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Old 03-29-2017, 11:00 PM
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2004 acura TL no start and no codes !

Hi everybody ! Need some help..I have a 2004 acura TL standard and the other day i was driving my car, i have to stop at a red light and suddenly my car shot down. I crank it over and i was able to started but it was sputtering and missing with no power watsoever. I towed to the house and after it cooled down, i try to started. I turn the key on and i can hear the fuel pump priming the system. I crank the engine over and sometimes it tries to start but is like firing on some cylinders. I used a scanner and i dont have any codes whatsoever ! I change spark pligs... I pull the fuel pump and check if it was pumpimg and it is, with good pressure. I check the fb1 works and trottle works fine. Most of the time it just crank over. I know...it might be the regulator but if is not the regulator or anything fuel related what could it be??? And no codes?? Is mind blowing. Any suggestions???
Old 03-29-2017, 11:17 PM
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Starter or battery
Old 03-29-2017, 11:46 PM
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Starter or battery??!!! ???
it cranks fine !
Old 03-30-2017, 03:32 AM
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Coil packs are ok? Battery connections are tight? Did you have any recent work?
Old 03-30-2017, 03:33 AM
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if died at a light, alternator could be going bad. your battery is already out of the equation when your car is on. did you notice your interior light dimmer than usual?
Old 03-30-2017, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Showtime
Coil packs are ok? Battery connections are tight? Did you have any recent work?
​​​​​​Battery connections are tight. Battery is brand new. Nop, no recent work done to this car, never had a problem with it. The only thing out of the ordinary i did was a month ago i add one of those fuel injector cleaners to the fuel tank. But the car was running fine adter that. Coil packs? I am gonna check them today. Check for spark. Too many beers tonight. Thanks.
Old 03-30-2017, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by DesertMistTL
if died at a light, alternator could be going bad. your battery is already out of the equation when your car is on. did you notice your interior light dimmer than usual?
battery and alternator are out of the question. No dimming lights. No engine light. Engine cranks fine.
turn headlights on while cranking...no dimming or lack of enthusiam. CRANK...TRY TO START BUT DO NOT START...
Old 03-30-2017, 03:59 PM
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Crank sensor? (CPS)

Last edited by Turbonut; 03-30-2017 at 04:02 PM.
Old 03-30-2017, 04:48 PM
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UPDATE .
Check for spark. It have spark on all coils. Today it cranks and try to start but it dies.. smsh.
crank positioning sensor...thats the one next to the bottom pulley ? How to troubleshoot that sensor? Anyone knows?? I though bad sensor ..no spark...
Old 04-03-2017, 10:03 AM
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Another weekend to work on this. Update. Same malfunction. Cranks, try to start and dies. Sometimes stay running but missing on more than one cylinder. Check fuel pressure at the rail, it have 65. Check for spark. It have spark on all cylinders. Check air cleaner. Air cleaner is good.

1- cant be CKP because it have spark.
2- cant be fuel pump. Pressure is 65. Range is 57 to 65.
3-cant be air intake clogged. I check the system and is all clear.
4- faulty injectors? There is no way more than one injector will fail at the same time.
5- key fob? When i turn the key on key flash and goes off. It cranks and have spark.
6-jump timing belt? It should at least give me a code . I dont have ANY code.

It should RUN ! At least ! I always though at least the minimun for an engine to run, it needs air, fuel, and spark. I know the system is more complicated than this but at least it should idle !
WHAT THE HELL IM MISSING !??
Old 04-05-2017, 01:43 PM
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Mass Air Flow Sensor? Did you notice any surging before the car just died? If you give the car gas when you start up, will it stay on?

Based on your tests you can rule out the fuel pump. Potentially it is the fuel pressure sensor, but I would suspect the car would still at least turn on and run for awhile. I had a co-worker whose car would randomly die on her when driving. She took it to 4 or 5 Ford dealerships before they finally figured out it was her fuel pressure regulator/sensor. I'm not exactly sure how the pressure would read if the sensor is reading intermittent, but it may be worth looking into.

My brothers car shredded its timing belt and I am fairly sure it didn't output any code. However, it did not turn on afterwards.

My only other thought is you don't have any gas. Potentially your fuel sensor failed on the pump and the gauge was telling you you had gas when you didn't. I may just try putting a gallon in before you try doing anything else. As silly as it sounds, it could be the issue and would be the cheapest solution of the ones I listed.

Last edited by NoTLoud; 04-05-2017 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 04-13-2017, 03:01 PM
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Cool

Well...another week with this. I decided to replace everything with a new timing belt kit. while i was installing the parts, my mind was thinking...what could it cause the belt timing to jump just a few notches??? If is not the belt stretched or the water pump freeze up or a bad tensioner ...????? Can it be something wrong with the cams?? So i try to turn the cams with a wrench, not a 360 but at least to see if there was any binding on them. Well i didn't found nothing at that point. Put the belt on time. I align the 3 marks on point. I crank the engine and it started !! but it took about 10 seconds when i heard a whining noise coming from the engine! I quickly shut it off. WHAT THE **** ?? After a beer or so i decided to check the timing again and the timing was off AGAIN ! HOW ? WHAT ?? I decided to finish my 6 pack of beer while thinking about it. After a while i decided to double check everything. No scuff marks on the belt. tensioner was good, pulleys ok . Well i guess it was time to start on the 2nd pack... So i put everything back on time, double and redouble check everything. I cross my fingers and crank the engine and it started ! No miss fires or nothing ! Just nice idling...for about 15 seconds ! Then the whining noise came back ! I quickly shut it off ! I was so psst by them it took my the next 4 beers to settle my anger. So i took everything off again and when i try to turn the crank, it didnt turn. so i check the camshafts and the right one turns ok but the left one didn't turn at ALL ! So i turn the crankshaft counter clockwise and it turn but my left bank camshaft is frozen. DON'T TURN AT ALL ! My guess is that there was something wrong with the left side cylinder head that caused the cam to bind and that caused the belt to jump. Maybe lack of oil... wear n tear on the cam seats. I know that head is toast and maybe the cam too. My oil is good because I change the oil every 2 months like going to church on sundays. I be pulling the cylinder head this weekend. So i guess i be looking for a J32A3 cylinder head complete with cam and all. Wondering if the J32A3 head is the same as the J32A2 ?? J32A3 just came out on acura TL 04 -08. Cams ? Any input on this???
Old 04-14-2017, 01:36 PM
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Did you check the condition of the + battery cable? At this age it may be corroded on the inside like mine was last year which was the cause of similar problems.
.
Old 05-27-2017, 10:19 PM
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Question 2004 acura tl wont start.

Update... after troubleshooting the engine on why it didnt start, i found my right side head cam was worn out and froze with the head... i did a search and i even ask the dealership and was told any head from a acura tl 04 to 08 will fit. I was lucky enough to find one from a 05 acura tl complete with 85k on it. I mount the darn thing . I ensure the belt was on time and wualla ! ! It started!! Purr like a kitten ! ! No missing at idle , no codes but now ...i feel a lack of power. It feels.like my vtec solenoid is not working. Engine rev on 3rd up to 5k but it slowly creeps to it. I wonder if there is any difference in cams on the head since the original one was stamped RDJ-8 and the replacement is a RDJ-1. The engine dont miss other than that lack of power...ANY IDEAS OUTHERE ! !
Old 05-28-2017, 09:53 AM
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Heads/cams are the same for all the years, off course l/r are different.
The vtec assembly is what was on the car previously, so I don't see why it wouldn't operate properly, but check oil level, check screen assembly to make certain it's not clogged.




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