Just jacked up my car to rotate my wheels and my passenger wheel is free spinning in park. Been getting horrible gas mileage lately, very well maintained vehicle, dw-1 fluid with cooler. Drives fine and plenty of power some vibration which I attribute to needing shocks and tie rod ends no codes whatsoever.... What say ye oh sages of the 3g.

 

were both front wheels up? If yes that's why. Bad gas mileage ends up usually being bad o2 sensors or cat's getting plugged up, or valve adjustment. Vibration on acceleration is axles and go with OEM. Lots of aftermarket ones are not balanced properly and will still vibrate on acceleration. Raxles can be expensive, there is also insaneshafts and one other company that are good to 500 WHP.

 

+1 on the valve adjustment if you're not getting any codes.

 

Yup both wheels were up 😣. I'm ordering up some parts for the valve adjustment, I did not do it when I did the timing belt service. The bad gas mileage came rather suddenly while I was driving my wife to and from st louis, almost overnite I lost 25-30 percent. Is there a valve tolerance threshold where the mileage drops off a cliff? I'm still getting about 20 highway with zero ethanol premium. Any ideas what my 02 sensors and fuel trims would read with a clogged cat vs normal?

 

Did you use the right plugs? NGK Iridiums are pretty much the only plug that will make sure no issues. Plus after the timing belt replacement on all 3 of my acura's, I've lost 1MPG for the first 4-5K miles for some odd reason.

 

Yup, did the plugs along with the belt about 50k ago. Ngl iridium

 

The new design Iridium NGK 94279 Ruthenium HX plugs work very well. Been running them for almost a year now and they seem to work great The temporary MPG loss is because the new parts have to settle themselves in,
.

 

Recent performance update, hit wot against a mustang and the tach stuck at 6700rpm in 4th gear, refusing to shift (105mph) once I released the throttle it took a solid second and a half and a drop to 5500 for it to switch to fifth gear. Zero new issues since that, but I'm leaning towards changing every filter on that 5at. As far as I know there are two, one under the pan and a cartridge in the side. When I first purchased it as part of my pm I changed some pressure switches but I can't remember which ones. Anyone with experience on why my transmission would hang at 6700 rpm without shifting (it was probably doing me a favor). I don't intend on doing that again but It did make me think of the flow characteristics inside the trans and possibly neglected filters. Any other things I may need to look deeper into? Switches, etc, I have an aftermarket transcooler already. Always use at dw-1 but with my next drain and fill I was going to do one quart of redline racing atf in the mix as I hear it's good for longevity so long as it's not overdone. Still low 20s all round mileage, but I have the valve adjustment parts coming.

 

3rd gear runs to 105 mph, not 4th. you would have a tough time getting into 5th from wot lol.

 

So would the 3rd gear hangup at 105 be a japanese programmer preventing transmission detonation? Or a pressure switch? I'm waiting for warmer weather to do all my trans filters and valve adjustment.