'05 TL A/C Blows cold on driver side only!
#1
'05 TL A/C Blows cold on driver side only!
I've been doing some research but can't seem to find out how to diagnose this issue I'm having with the wife's car.
It's a 2005 Acura TL with 103,XXX, and this issue just started today. The driver side blows cold air but the passenger side does not. I tried shutting off the a/c off and turning it back on... still nothing, plus I also pressed the dual and adjusted the temp.. still nothing. I tried to hold on to the off button and press the air recirculate button five times to diagnose this, but maybe I'm doing it wrong. Can someone please point me in the right direction or solution.
I just recently did a 3x3 tranny fluid change, Oil change, Brake pad change, and also sucked out all of her old black brake fluid and refilled with new.
It's a 2005 Acura TL with 103,XXX, and this issue just started today. The driver side blows cold air but the passenger side does not. I tried shutting off the a/c off and turning it back on... still nothing, plus I also pressed the dual and adjusted the temp.. still nothing. I tried to hold on to the off button and press the air recirculate button five times to diagnose this, but maybe I'm doing it wrong. Can someone please point me in the right direction or solution.
I just recently did a 3x3 tranny fluid change, Oil change, Brake pad change, and also sucked out all of her old black brake fluid and refilled with new.
#3
Cruisin'
the blend door is broken or the motor to the blend door is broken. try putting the setting on dual. Then adjust the drivers side. You hopefully will be able to here the motor for the blend door. Then try the passenger side. If you can here the driver side and not the passenger side then your motor is bad or not getting power. If you can here both sides then most likely the blend door itself is broken.
#4
Racer
If you can get ahold of the factory service manual it has pretty detailed steps to diagnose and repair problems like this. I have it in PDF format. I would send it to you but I am offshore and the internet is too slow. Maybe someone else can get it to you. But yeah prolly the blend motor... its all in a module behind the glove box.
#6
Suzuka Master
^^ Would not blow cold on just one side with a refrigerant leak.
#7
It definitely sounds like a blend door issue. To run the diagnostic mode on the CC, shut the car off, then turn the key to ACC II and quickly hold down the off button on the CC. Press the recirc air button 5 times within 5 seconds of holding down the off button then release the off button. The diagnostic mode should start. Don't touch any thing and let the car do it's thing, it takes about 1 min. When it's finished the temp display numbers should flash "88" then one of the bars that make up the number will stay lit with the error code number.
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#8
Race Director
HVAC diagnostic procedure posted here (2004/2005):
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...23&postcount=2
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...23&postcount=2
#10
Ok, I went out to do HVAC diagnostic procedure (following the direction provided) and no codes displayed, except for "Auto and LO" then it shut off. I turned the car on and the hissing also followed when I turned the a/c on, however the hissing dissapeared when I manually shut the a/c off. I also would like to note that the hissing only comes when I have the motor on. If I have the car on CC and turn the a/c on, no hissing. Bad compressor? I do a lot of my own work so I hope it's nothing I cant repair or replace.
#11
Anyone with a hissing a/c system care to share what they did to repair it? I read somewhere a guy had the same issue and found out that the lower shrader vavle was stuck??
#12
I know this post has been a while, but since winter is gone and spring is here, I'm in need of repairing or diagnosing my a/c issues. Can someone help with the last couple of posts I posted?
#16
Pro
What's the readings at? Low side should be 30's and high side should be 150's depending on ambient temp. Sounds like low refrigerant though. Have it evac and recharged. And record how much was taken out. Ac diag is tricky if you don't know what to look for.
#21
Anyone have any ideas or expertise? If the low side has a reading of 40, would that mean I still have freon? My brother and I are trying to figure this out... and he thinks I still have freon because my low side has the recommended pressure and the high side is needing service. He believes my condensor or my compressor is bad? We don't have a window so I don't know if the compressor is working properly. Someone please help!
#23
Intermediate
Anyone have any ideas or expertise? If the low side has a reading of 40, would that mean I still have freon? My brother and I are trying to figure this out... and he thinks I still have freon because my low side has the recommended pressure and the high side is needing service. He believes my condensor or my compressor is bad? We don't have a window so I don't know if the compressor is working properly. Someone please help!
#24
Thanks! But the whole system isn't blowing cold anymore. I'll have to take a look if I'm able to fix the air temp
#25
#26
Intermediate
Incase no one new about this site I would recommend it.. http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org
This should show you where the expansion valve is location and it would be part number 23 in the diagram...
and this is a link of that heater unit diagram:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
This should show you where the expansion valve is location and it would be part number 23 in the diagram...
and this is a link of that heater unit diagram:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
Last edited by John C.; 04-11-2013 at 09:15 PM.
#27
Thanks for the diagram. Man, I really just want to trade this car in.. It's been good for only 1 1/2 of 3 years since we've purchased it. I bought a 2001 Acura Integra 4dr GS-R and Never had an issue with it! It was build bulletproof.
#28
TLicious Type S
Dude, just take it to a garage for a simple A/C charge. It's cheap, and they'll be able to easily tell you if it's just low on R-34. This is usually the problem.
#29
I rechecked both sides and the low is still in the okay range of 30-35, but the high side pressure was all gone! I heard a little hissing from the valve where you hook up the line to get the reading, schrader valve? If so, can I just purchase one from an auto part store or does it need to be oem? If oem, will honda be interchangeable? Acura charges for the same items but at a steeper price!
#32
TLicious Type S
Here's an idea: Dude, just take it to a garage for a simple A/C charge. It's cheap, and they'll be able to easily tell you if it's just low on R-34. This is usually the problem.
#33
This what the OP should have done to first time rather than wasting his time running around all over the place.
#34
kct01, I had the same problem, my car is now an 05 with 108k on it, it started off with 1 side of the car not cooling air properly, my wife complained because it was her side, i said what ever it doesnt bother me.. in 2 months my side broke, now i need to fix it. I will try and take it to a shop soon. I just didnt want to go to a shop before i did my research, it sounds like you have and that i need to take it into the shop first.
#36
I hope you all get it figured out. I'm in the process of taking it to the shop and see what's wrong with it. I don't like to spend $$ for labor if I can tackle it myself. I just might buy all the evap equipment and such after the shop diagnoses it. This TL has not been reiable as my 2001 4 door GS-R.. Seem's like Honda went to crap after the RSX.
#39
Maybe I should have listened to members here, but me being me, I rather fix it myself. Anyways, problem solved! It was a schrader valve leak that caused all of the refridgrent to leak out of the high side. This caused the low refridge sensor to shut down the compressor in order to stop it from burning itself out. The shop replaced the valve and filled up 17 oz of cool refridgerent.
My assumption, as I was researching was, there is still refridgerent because the low side is still holding 35-38 psi, but the high side is low. This however was not the case, and I could have easily replaced the leaking valve and refilled the system saving almost $65-$70. Case closed and lesson learned! Thanks for all of your inputs!
My assumption, as I was researching was, there is still refridgerent because the low side is still holding 35-38 psi, but the high side is low. This however was not the case, and I could have easily replaced the leaking valve and refilled the system saving almost $65-$70. Case closed and lesson learned! Thanks for all of your inputs!