MLue1

Here is where I bought the tool. www.getmetools.com/schley.html

I think right now you can get the same price, if you mention that you want the same price that MLue got.

Cheers

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, I saw that tool a while back. I was wondering is people would be interested in a core-exchange program. I ship a set of LCAs with new bushings and charge a core fee. Then you return your old ones and we credit the core fee back. Only charge you for the new bushings and the cost of the labor.

I hate cars

That sounds like a really good idea. Just did mine but when they go out again in another 5,000 miles lol, I would go this route.

MLue1

That's prolly the best offer I've seen,... too bad I already purchased the tool and I'm in Canada as well.

mc_holla

Would be down with that. Any idea of how much the job would cost if I went that route?

Parts - Core + Labor = Cost

TacaoBell

I thought about it for a second, and it didn't make sense to do it that way beings that the bolts holding the LCA in place has nothing to do with the tires being aligned, and secondly, i was going to get an alignment done anyway. If someone can provide me with some facts that makes sense then I will redo it. Plus it would be difficult to put everything on loosely, lower the car, and then try to get to the bolts to tightnen it.

TRIOD3SIGNS

x2 ^^

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Maybe I could take the tool off your hands? That way I get what I need and you dump what you don't need. Unless you plan on doing it again later...

Jeffa1

I've been following this thread and yes, your core-exchange program sounds good to me.

TRIOD3SIGNS

MAKE IT HAPPEN SENOR MAR_CUTZ!

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, what if I could offer it with an upgraded bushing?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Please update us on what you posted there Marcus...please...
I'm very close to pulling trigger on this...if you've gotten the upgrade possibility I'd be ALL over doing an exchange program with you...absolutely.

J.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

I probably need about 30 days. My fabricator is out of town for 2-3 weeks and I have a few other projects in the queue

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Well I've been driving like this for a while already...so I can likely wait, just shoot me a pm on approx price so i know whether or not to wait. Thank you!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

anyone that has done this...can you tell me if this set will do the trick for changing the bushing?
And also...this is the forefront biggest bushing that is failing, correct? Just want to make sure I have my ducks in a row.

Rented this from advance auto...tomorrow will stop by dealer to see if price is same as oemacuraparts.com (because I have a guy I know that gives me better prices)



Please let me know if this will work. Thank you!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Communicating with Marcus right now because I am very interested in getting rid of this problem once and for all.

PS...researching a little...anyone here of Moog bushings? here's a link...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Moog-...ries#vi-ilComp

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

or this...
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...MOK200014.html

MLue1

Thanks for the offer MrHeeltoe but I have relatives and friends that own other Honda models that the tool works on as well, at the moment this tool maybe the only one in Canada. Bob at www.getmetools.com/schley.html has the best price at $140 and the shipping is cheap as well. He worked it so I didn't have to pay import duties and taxes.

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

Been discussed brother, go back a page or two. hehe

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Dang...I'm 0 for 2 today...asked for something at work that my boss' boss had to tell me was readily available for me to see.

What a moron! Ha ha...will check it out.
J.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Gerzand...thanks man, just read it. Would be a total waste of time.
OK...next question...who has actually added the window weld to it and what difference did it make? Car smooth as heck now...did it last? Is it too rough.

I'm leaning toward going with stock and making sure to tighten up the bolts after car is on the ground to keep the torsional pressure off the bushing because of the lowered car.

J.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Anyone know if that tool I posted above will work? Or is the threaded part too thick to fit thru the bushing?

Also, what ended up being the concensus? I'm going to be buying the window weld stuff to put in for increased rigidity...but I wanted to know if I should use the Type S compliance bushing, or the 04 one...

Please?

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

Im taking mine out as we speak, and FINALLY (after nearly a year) installing my 75a poly filled ones!!!! My buddy is pressing then in at his shop. Wish me luck!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Good luck, man!
I'm sure you'll knock it out no problem...
So wait, you NEVER fixed this to begin with? And you are putting in the Tripnbeats ones finally?!

Is it just poly filled in the gaps of othe OEM one? If so, type S or base?

Thanks for the response!
J.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Was under my gf's 08 accord and noticed that her front compliance bushing looks solid. ANYONE think about maybe another Honda/Acura application that would fit into our lower control arm that is already solid?

Anyone?

piggydog

what kind of bad tire wear will you get if you don't change these out?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

My guess...cupping.
I had it on my last set and thought it was defective tires...probably this that caused the wear.
J.

I hate cars

That's it. When mine were bad it showed up to 5 degrees of toe. You could check the alignment and it might be 2 degrees one time, back it up and drive it back on the rack and it might be 5 degrees the next time. You can't really get an alignment when these things are torn because it will change the second you drive it.

Excessive toe means more wear and cupping.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Even more of a reason to nip this quickly! Ihc, you have access to parts measurements by any chance. There must be some other application out there that has same measurements but is more robust. Has to be!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Ok...enough waiting on answers and solutions...heeltoe must be busy and I don't want to wait on answers on here. I figured if an 07 TL-S with 15K had this crack and my 04 made it to 60K miles.... and the 04's are a harder rubber...I opted to use the A1 part number, rather than A11.

Was pricing this here and there, ended up going to the dealer...$37 each...WTF...lucky a guy that recognized me gave me 20% over invoice...he says he can't do 10 anymore because questions get asked.

SO...paid $22 bucks each...

Then swung by advance auto and paid $20 for this stuff...

and ended up with this...there's a nifty divider in the mold anyway, and since I'm waiting till Saturday/Sunday to knock this out...I just put all the window weld in in one shot. Wore gloves, of course...and smoothed out with my finger. Came out pretty well, should offer enough support to the OEM rubber to keep it from cracking again. Hopefully...I know it'll be a little stiffer, but I can live with stiffer better than ANY vibrations or tracking or cupping or unpredictable steering.

So I ended up with this!


Once in, I'll give a good review on it...let everyone know if this is the route for you.

OH AND ANOTHER FYI if you decide to do this...the top and bottom of the bushing are different...you'll see it when you touch it and I'm SURE it's just gotta match how they are on the stock ones now. I made sure NOT to cover the arrows with the window weld so I know where to put them.

J.

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

I bought Type-s...not like it matters tho since he drilled them out and scored the walls for proper adhesion, and filled with 75a poly using jig that he made. Took me 4 months to get them and another 9 months to get around to doing this.

During the dissassembly, a two armed $17.99 putman puller set from Harbor Freight saved my ass. Those lower ball joints were not budging, even after giving the knuckle a few hefty slams with a sledge. Oh, and contrary to others advice...... do NOT reverse thread the castle nut back onto the ball joint and hammer it. It strips both sets of threads. I caught mine early enough to save it, thank god.

They are going back on the car this week, as soon as I have a free evening. Keep me posted as to your status!

A.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I hope my ball joints aren't too hard to get out...the uppers were pretty easy with the fork tool. I did tear on of them but it was because I wasn't cautious with it and the fork I originally borrowed only had one size. The new one I borrowed has 3 sizes so I'm hoping it works with issue.

J.

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

A fork is a bad idea on a TL. From what ive seen, it doesnt matter what the size....it just wont work without honda's tool or a pittman puller.

Anywayz, got the control arms back today, degreased them, sanded with a die grinder, automotive primered and painted them metallic silver. They are looking pretty. Will post pics tomorrow, its late!

HQTL6SPD

Anybody interested in buying these off me? I have a lot of other expenses, my bushing still look fine, and I'm feeling too lazy to swap them...

Had Tripnbeats make these for me a little while ago, but I never installed them..

PM me for questions or w/e

Carlito Benito

I wish. My mechanic was $240 for parts, labor, tax.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

where were you 2 weeks ago! I would have been all over that!
Anyway, gonna give this a stab on Saturday...wish me luck. Can't be THAT difficult.

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

No, you DONT want them. During my LCA install last night with the poly filled bushngs, they Cracked all the way through BEFORE even bolting up them up fully. Flexed a bushing slightly trying to line up the subframe bolt, and its destroyed.

DONT BUY THESE. Sorry but had to reveal the truth behind them. I dont know if he made my set with a bad batch of poly, but im ticked off. All this time and effort wasted. Back to stock I go.....

youngstallion29

Now I have to check my 08, i am glad it is still underwarranty, any problems with the rad fluid dipping below the min mark in the morning on a flat surface. the Langley Dealer said it might have been like that from factory, dont ever go there, they wanted to charge me time to look at it, when it is a clear warranty issue. go to North Vancouver Acura, they have good service

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Hey man, thank you very much for sharing!
I must say, you just made me VERY happy that I went OEM with the window weld. Sorry you had to experience that disappointment!

Gonna give this a whack tomorrow...
PS...advance auto DOES have the right tool to take off the lower balljoint, they have a 5 piece kit that basically has them ALL!

J.

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, it sucks.

Please post up brand of the kit or pics and a SKU label for this kit!!