[Youtube] EricTheCarGuy goes over TL's (J series) Valve Adjustment!
10-15-2012, 12:08 PM
#1
the overexplainer
Thread Starter
[Youtube] EricTheCarGuy goes over TL's (J series) Valve Adjustment!
I dont know how many of you follow him, but i love watching his videos. Very informative! 
The following 4 users liked this post by ez12a:
10-15-2012, 08:33 PM
#4
the overexplainer
Thread Starter
no problem! hopefully part 2 will be up later this week!
Also it's great to see how clean the engine is with regular maintenance even after 100k! the inside isnt varnished at all too much (which means usually there's not too much heat)!
some people might complain about Honda's aged V6 design with the timing belt and all, but they gotta admit it's well engineered for what it is. Not many manufacturers can make such a clean operating engine (no sludge/build up wise). Toyota, Audi, Volvo, Chrysler, etc have all made engines that build up inside.
A benefit of a belt also is that it's quiet. People are already having to replace chain tensioners and guides on Evos, BMWs, Acura RSXs etc.
Also it's great to see how clean the engine is with regular maintenance even after 100k! the inside isnt varnished at all too much (which means usually there's not too much heat)!
some people might complain about Honda's aged V6 design with the timing belt and all, but they gotta admit it's well engineered for what it is. Not many manufacturers can make such a clean operating engine (no sludge/build up wise). Toyota, Audi, Volvo, Chrysler, etc have all made engines that build up inside.
A benefit of a belt also is that it's quiet. People are already having to replace chain tensioners and guides on Evos, BMWs, Acura RSXs etc.
Last edited by ez12a; 10-15-2012 at 08:42 PM.
10-15-2012, 08:39 PM
#5
Registered Member
iTrader: (8)
Yeah hopefully the second video will be up soon, I was kinda mad to watch 27 min of video for him not to even adjust the valves lol.
What I do know is after seeing this video there is no way I'd be tearing apart my car by myself to do this. I'll pay someone before I go through all that, lol.
Pretty informative though.
What I do know is after seeing this video there is no way I'd be tearing apart my car by myself to do this. I'll pay someone before I go through all that, lol.
Pretty informative though.
10-15-2012, 08:59 PM
#6
It'll be out on Friday. He releases episodes on Mondays and Fridays.
Briansmobile is another one of my favorite Youtubers but some times he doesn't go in-depth or half the stuff was already done before the video started.
http://www.youtube.com/user/briansmo...ure=CBIQwRs%3D
Briansmobile is another one of my favorite Youtubers but some times he doesn't go in-depth or half the stuff was already done before the video started.
http://www.youtube.com/user/briansmo...ure=CBIQwRs%3D
10-15-2012, 09:32 PM
#7
Race Director
Nice find. That is a well done video.
1. It's been a while since I did my valve adjustment, but I don't remember removing the throttle body from the upper manifold. Pretty sure that's not in the SM, but it doesn't hurt to do it.
2. Same for the PS hose. I didn't disconnect it, just removed the clamp bolts and pushed it out of the way.
3. I did remove the strut bar, gave me a lot more room for little effort IMO.
4. Interesting use of the magnetic grabber
5. Gotta get me a pair of those curved pliers!!
1. It's been a while since I did my valve adjustment, but I don't remember removing the throttle body from the upper manifold. Pretty sure that's not in the SM, but it doesn't hurt to do it.
2. Same for the PS hose. I didn't disconnect it, just removed the clamp bolts and pushed it out of the way.
3. I did remove the strut bar, gave me a lot more room for little effort IMO.
4. Interesting use of the magnetic grabber
5. Gotta get me a pair of those curved pliers!!
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10-15-2012, 10:29 PM
#8
Intermediate
10-19-2012, 01:13 PM
#9
Race Director
2nd vid is now up:
Comments:
1. That tool makes it look so much easier and quicker than the screw driver/socket method. For $58 (ebay), I'd probably get one: Schley UN1208895. (The Blue Point YA8895 will run you over $80 shipped).
2. Per the SM, I'd use anti-seize on the spark plug threads and tighten to SM spec (13 ft-lb). (See this thread starting at post #18 for a discussion on spark plug torque specs and use of anti-seize: Anti-seize discussion
3. Rather than "carefully dropping", I'd recommend using heater hose to lower the spark plugs into the holes and to start the thread on the plugs.
4. Valve clearances were the same as I experienced: Intake were loose, exhaust were tight.
5. No torque wrench? Can't argue with him over his experience, but I would always recommend using a TW for the weekend mechanics.
6. Gaskets: SM says to replace the manifold gaskets. I didn't catch that during my prep and had the car tore apart before I realized that. I reused them and have had no problems. Looks like he did the same. I did replace the valve cover gaskets, but they were in excellent shape. Probably could have reused them like he did with no issues. I bought the spark plug gaskets but did not use them. Beware, if you do decide to replace the SP gaskets, apparently they are a real PITA to remove.
7. Valve cover bolts. Again, I'd recommend using a 1/4" torque wrench (8.7 ft-lbs). They are very easy to break (trust me, I learned the hard way). If you don't use a TW, as soon as they bottom out, stop. Don't even go 1/16th turn beyond.
8. From my experience, I really didn't notice any difference in turning the engine from the crank with and without the spark plugs installed. So IMO you don't need to remove the spark plugs in order to turn the engine.
9. The SM listst a specific sequence to loosen and tighten the manifold bolts. I would follow that procedure.
And last, I still ROLF at the forum member who claims a single person can complete a full valve adjustment, start to finish, in under 1 hour.
Comments:
1. That tool makes it look so much easier and quicker than the screw driver/socket method. For $58 (ebay), I'd probably get one: Schley UN1208895. (The Blue Point YA8895 will run you over $80 shipped).
2. Per the SM, I'd use anti-seize on the spark plug threads and tighten to SM spec (13 ft-lb). (See this thread starting at post #18 for a discussion on spark plug torque specs and use of anti-seize: Anti-seize discussion
3. Rather than "carefully dropping", I'd recommend using heater hose to lower the spark plugs into the holes and to start the thread on the plugs.
4. Valve clearances were the same as I experienced: Intake were loose, exhaust were tight.
5. No torque wrench? Can't argue with him over his experience, but I would always recommend using a TW for the weekend mechanics.
6. Gaskets: SM says to replace the manifold gaskets. I didn't catch that during my prep and had the car tore apart before I realized that. I reused them and have had no problems. Looks like he did the same. I did replace the valve cover gaskets, but they were in excellent shape. Probably could have reused them like he did with no issues. I bought the spark plug gaskets but did not use them. Beware, if you do decide to replace the SP gaskets, apparently they are a real PITA to remove.
7. Valve cover bolts. Again, I'd recommend using a 1/4" torque wrench (8.7 ft-lbs). They are very easy to break (trust me, I learned the hard way). If you don't use a TW, as soon as they bottom out, stop. Don't even go 1/16th turn beyond.
8. From my experience, I really didn't notice any difference in turning the engine from the crank with and without the spark plugs installed. So IMO you don't need to remove the spark plugs in order to turn the engine.
9. The SM listst a specific sequence to loosen and tighten the manifold bolts. I would follow that procedure.
And last, I still ROLF at the forum member who claims a single person can complete a full valve adjustment, start to finish, in under 1 hour.
Last edited by nfnsquared; 10-19-2012 at 01:16 PM.
10-19-2012, 01:47 PM
#10
the overexplainer
Thread Starter
I found this on amazon for significantly cheaper. The YA8895 # shows a snapon tool for 10mm so i think it's the right tool..it works on B series at least.
10-19-2012, 02:14 PM
#11
Race Director
I found this on amazon for significantly cheaper. The YA8895 # shows a snapon tool for 10mm so i think it's the right tool..it works on B series at least.
http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-64882...I3U7T67KQTRL54
http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-64882...I3U7T67KQTRL54
At $11, that's a no brainer!!
Thanks for the link!!
10-19-2012, 09:48 PM
#12
I found this on amazon for significantly cheaper. The YA8895 # shows a snapon tool for 10mm so i think it's the right tool..it works on B series at least.
http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-64882...I3U7T67KQTRL54
http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-64882...I3U7T67KQTRL54
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