Rossv1's Progress Thread
Guess I lucked up
I jacked the rear of the car up, removed rear wheels, and unbolted the oem arms and swapped each side( I adjusted the ingalls arms as close to OEM lenght as possible before installing them). tightened them up and put wheels back on the car.
Even removing them was cake when I reinstalled my oem arms. Having ratcheting wrenches helps too
I jacked the rear of the car up, removed rear wheels, and unbolted the oem arms and swapped each side( I adjusted the ingalls arms as close to OEM lenght as possible before installing them). tightened them up and put wheels back on the car.Even removing them was cake when I reinstalled my oem arms. Having ratcheting wrenches helps too
cars up here are riddled with rust/salt corrosion problems and i've installed this kit on a bunch of different TL's and ALWAYS run into the seized bolt. all the other bolts are cake. impact gun makes quick work of them.
bzzzz bzzzz bzzzz.
What exactly does that mean Anil? Is that a good thing or what?
Is it like the pressure switches that people always switch out except this one is for the reverse gear instead of the drive gears?
Is it like the pressure switches that people always switch out except this one is for the reverse gear instead of the drive gears?
05_NBP_TL, please check out my p. thread (last 2 pages) and see what I had to go through to install ingalls 
Stupid snow
Sorry to hear that Ross
I have no idea but as I know bad tranny is 04-05-07-08
Not 06
Actually mine is made in Japan, some are (even 06) are made in USA...usually those are the ones that has problem...
As I know
What sensors? I think I know where pressure switches are though.
Didn't understand what solenoid is.
Anil heeeeelppp


Stupid snow

Sorry to hear that Ross
I have no idea but as I know bad tranny is 04-05-07-08
Not 06

Actually mine is made in Japan, some are (even 06) are made in USA...usually those are the ones that has problem...
As I know
What sensors? I think I know where pressure switches are though.
Didn't understand what solenoid is.
Anil heeeeelppp

I'm getting it towed tomorrow. Hopefully they'll have good news and tell me it's just a sensor that's gone out and will be an inexpensive fix.
Last edited by rossv1; Jun 5, 2013 at 12:03 AM.
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Meko,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transmission_solenoid
Ross,
I would remove the battery and the battery tray and see if you see any connectors which might have come undone....I am thinking its a voltage issues/connector issue....
Also check all the fuses under the hood to see if all are ok before you have them tow it and pay a lot more
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transmission_solenoid
Ross,
I would remove the battery and the battery tray and see if you see any connectors which might have come undone....I am thinking its a voltage issues/connector issue....
Also check all the fuses under the hood to see if all are ok before you have them tow it and pay a lot more
No update, just a couple of questions.
I went out just to start the car and let it idle for a little bit and noticed that my sub wasn't working. I went and checked out the fuses and noticed the fuse from the battery, and the fuse on the amp were still good but the 2 fuses in the add-a-fuse were blown. Switched them out, turned the car back on, and still nothing; both blown again.
Just wondering if maybe I should bump up the size (they're 7.5 amp now) and try that or what? It's funny because I didn't get any blown fuses until this started with the tranny...
We got lucky and were able to purchase and a power train warranty through the dealer we bought the car from so now I'm just waiting for the paperwork to get finalized and then I'll be able to do something with the car. It's so frustrating to have it parked in front of my house and look at it every time I walk outside only to know there could be something majorly wrong with it.
I went out just to start the car and let it idle for a little bit and noticed that my sub wasn't working. I went and checked out the fuses and noticed the fuse from the battery, and the fuse on the amp were still good but the 2 fuses in the add-a-fuse were blown. Switched them out, turned the car back on, and still nothing; both blown again.
Just wondering if maybe I should bump up the size (they're 7.5 amp now) and try that or what? It's funny because I didn't get any blown fuses until this started with the tranny...
We got lucky and were able to purchase and a power train warranty through the dealer we bought the car from so now I'm just waiting for the paperwork to get finalized and then I'll be able to do something with the car. It's so frustrating to have it parked in front of my house and look at it every time I walk outside only to know there could be something majorly wrong with it.
Last edited by rossv1; Jun 10, 2013 at 12:53 PM.
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That MIGHT be unrelated, but blown fuses is more than likely indicating a short to ground somewhere. Did you ground your system something that might be transmission related? Even as a seasoned modder, I never cease to amaze myself with really elementary mistakes. Key is to step back and think what you added and where and what impact that might have.
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^^^ I agree with Jeremy...
Ross that is exactly what I have been telling you....am thinking its an electrical/connector issue....
what does the paperwork from the dealership say?
Ross that is exactly what I have been telling you....am thinking its an electrical/connector issue....
what does the paperwork from the dealership say?
The ground we used was in the driver side rear of the trunk so I guess it's not related to the transmission.
And to tell you the truth, I haven't seen the paperwork for the warranty.
We bought the car about 6 hours away so they've mailed the paperwork to my house, but since I'm at school a few hours away I haven't read it.
And to tell you the truth, I haven't seen the paperwork for the warranty.

We bought the car about 6 hours away so they've mailed the paperwork to my house, but since I'm at school a few hours away I haven't read it.
Last edited by Steven Bell; Jun 12, 2013 at 09:07 PM. Reason: Merged Posts
So lets say as a quick fix I just disconnect the power wire for the amp from the battery, would that possibly help the situation (if indeed a bad ground is the problem?)
I would go out and just redo the ground but don't have time right now to go and take the trunk apart to get to it.
I would go out and just redo the ground but don't have time right now to go and take the trunk apart to get to it.
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well am not saying its the amp wire....it would be any wire....
check your battery terminals...as Jeremy mentioned, back track....what was the last mod you did....check that thoroughly (including the fuses it uses)....and see if the problem is solved....if not go back another mod you did and repeat the checks...
check your battery terminals...as Jeremy mentioned, back track....what was the last mod you did....check that thoroughly (including the fuses it uses)....and see if the problem is solved....if not go back another mod you did and repeat the checks...
Alright. So I checked the wiring for the past mods I've had done and everything looks all good.
But I got to thinking and remembered that a few months ago I took my car to the dealer because the car would lurch when I put it into drive. They told me that this was normal and to not be alarmed about it, so I wasn't.
Well last night as I was searching I came across a post by IHC where he was talking about what each solenoid controlled. He said solenoid A controlled the reverse gear as well as toward engagement among other things.
The code that I got says reverse gear my not operate and that solenoid A is stuck open. The more I think about and the more I research, the more I really think the problem is related to the solenoid and not the transmission.
With that said, is there any way to test if in fact it is the solenoid, and how difficult of a DIY is it to install new ones? I wasn't able to find a DIY or even any pictures of the solenoids so I'd almost be doing it blindly unless y'all have any info on how to do it or have any pictures of the solenoids also.
But anyways, just figured I'd post about incase anyone is actually following this and is interest in it or if anyone now or down the road has the same problems I'm having.
Edit: Post 49 in this thread is what IHC actually says about Solenoid A
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=728370&page=2
But I got to thinking and remembered that a few months ago I took my car to the dealer because the car would lurch when I put it into drive. They told me that this was normal and to not be alarmed about it, so I wasn't.
Well last night as I was searching I came across a post by IHC where he was talking about what each solenoid controlled. He said solenoid A controlled the reverse gear as well as toward engagement among other things.
The code that I got says reverse gear my not operate and that solenoid A is stuck open. The more I think about and the more I research, the more I really think the problem is related to the solenoid and not the transmission.
With that said, is there any way to test if in fact it is the solenoid, and how difficult of a DIY is it to install new ones? I wasn't able to find a DIY or even any pictures of the solenoids so I'd almost be doing it blindly unless y'all have any info on how to do it or have any pictures of the solenoids also.
But anyways, just figured I'd post about incase anyone is actually following this and is interest in it or if anyone now or down the road has the same problems I'm having.
Edit: Post 49 in this thread is what IHC actually says about Solenoid A
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=728370&page=2
Last edited by rossv1; Jun 12, 2013 at 05:51 PM.
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Ross...welcome to post 604 and 609 
From the image it doesnt look like the solenoid is hard to access...you are looking at parts 10 and 11 (10 is solenoid A and 11 is solenoid B) in the picture below...as I mentioned in those posts above, remove the battery and the battery tray and you will be able to see what am talking about....since my battery is relocated, I can get these parts out in less than 5 minutes....

Just to give you a reference point, parts 12/13 are the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches
EDIT: saw the image again and seems like you have 2 solenoid A's and 2 solenoid B's

From the image it doesnt look like the solenoid is hard to access...you are looking at parts 10 and 11 (10 is solenoid A and 11 is solenoid B) in the picture below...as I mentioned in those posts above, remove the battery and the battery tray and you will be able to see what am talking about....since my battery is relocated, I can get these parts out in less than 5 minutes....

Just to give you a reference point, parts 12/13 are the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches
EDIT: saw the image again and seems like you have 2 solenoid A's and 2 solenoid B's
Last edited by swoosh; Jun 12, 2013 at 08:38 PM.
Thanks for all the help A. If only you were in GA and not KC. 
I was under the impression that part 6 was the A and B solenoids but I'm probably wrong.
2 solenoid A's and 2 B's? I guess I'll need to replace both A solenoids?
Sorry for so many questions, I have little mechanical know how unless I'm following a step by step guide or someone tells me pretty much how to do it. haha

I was under the impression that part 6 was the A and B solenoids but I'm probably wrong.

2 solenoid A's and 2 B's? I guess I'll need to replace both A solenoids?
Sorry for so many questions, I have little mechanical know how unless I'm following a step by step guide or someone tells me pretty much how to do it. haha
Last edited by rossv1; Jun 12, 2013 at 08:58 PM.
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Not sure Ross....but the parts are relatively cheap...$27/solenoid
010 28400-P6H-013 SOLENOID ASSY. (A) (KEIHIN) 002 2004 TL 36.87 27.65
011 28500-P6H-013 SOLENOID ASSY. (B) (KEIHIN) 002 2004 TL 36.83 27.62
I would buy the oem parts and switch em up (if needed)....am not sure how you can test the solenoid and if the reverse gear is not working and the Post from IHC is on point, you will just need the solenoid A's....
010 28400-P6H-013 SOLENOID ASSY. (A) (KEIHIN) 002 2004 TL 36.87 27.65
011 28500-P6H-013 SOLENOID ASSY. (B) (KEIHIN) 002 2004 TL 36.83 27.62
I would buy the oem parts and switch em up (if needed)....am not sure how you can test the solenoid and if the reverse gear is not working and the Post from IHC is on point, you will just need the solenoid A's....
So I went to order the solenoids tonight but I guess they changed the sensors or something for the Type S because there isn't an option to order the A solenoids; only linear ones?
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/parts-c...ensor-solenoid
Now I'm lost again as to what I need to order. I'm guessing it's #8 but could be #10.
These are much more expensive than the other ones but I found I can get them off Amazon for around $80 which still isn't that bad.
But if anybody can help tell me which ones I need it'd be greatly appreciated.
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/parts-c...ensor-solenoid
Now I'm lost again as to what I need to order. I'm guessing it's #8 but could be #10.
These are much more expensive than the other ones but I found I can get them off Amazon for around $80 which still isn't that bad.
But if anybody can help tell me which ones I need it'd be greatly appreciated.
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now am not sure which solenoid controls the reverse gear....i would remove them, and reinstall them to see if anything changes...I would do this before ordering the parts....you looking at $300 in parts
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I would stick to OEM parts, if on Amazon it has the same part#, go for it....you dont want the wrong pressures or switches in the transmission....its either $140 or your transmission 
also go back and thank all my posts you sum-afa-bish

also go back and thank all my posts you sum-afa-bish







