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I had my TL-S since early 2012 and still own it to today, for those who's relative new to the forum my Acura staples has been growing ever since (hints look at my sign lol). I decided to make a journey thread as PhotoSucket has deleted image host. This thread is more like a journey logs rather than regular progress thread.
Fast forward to couple months back when I ready to pull the trigger on a MT TL-S but to make matter worst I only wanted KBP or MRP with two tone seat. I did a nationwide search and come back with no real result, I also offer a forum member for his TL-S MT but he decide to keep the car (I don't blame him at all).
I encounter couple TL that interest me but in the end it turned to be trashed to hell and the owner want collector car value, so at the same time I search locally for a Base TL and end up with one for a good price. I decided to restored and refresh TL-S after all the years of wears and tears knowing which part I already replace and what to expect next, I will post pics as the progress follow.
(I will be posting pictures later since this computer isn't up for the task)
Well this freaking leak is pissing me off, I just chalk this one up today.
Rebuilt the PS pump along with flush PS fluid (using tube connect to return line). I personally flush the PS fluid a year ago using the method in service manual but I am supper anal about some old fluid still in the system as I don't want to ruin my brand new steering rack.
Time to take it apart, most of the O-ring was very brittle and almost flat. I noticed there is slight play in the bearing and shaft but luckily I bought a new bearing, I notice the new bearing spin much nicer. In the below pictures you can see where the leak originate from. I replaced all the o-ring and bearing thanks to rockstar DIY.
Everything going back, I had to double check the belt make sure it in the grove and carefully line up with tensioner.
This what the PS fluid looks like after a year, I guess because not all of the old fluid goes out therefore it contaminated the new fluid. I now have clear PS fluid sit inside the PS reservoir, BTW don't forget to wash your engine bay afterward as they fluid can eat through paint.
I might gonna do valve cover gasket and intake manifold gasket next. Also I got Centric rotor sit awaiting for a new pair of Brembo caliper arrived so I can put everything together.
Last edited by truonghthe; 03-18-2018 at 07:39 PM.
Quick update, the car currently has 118k miles. I swap out the HID with Osram CBB (previously the car has CBI), replace the mess up foglight assembly, replace front passenger side marker.
I now have massive car parts come in (If I can over night from Japan lol) the car will receive massive overhaul. Here is the current list of remaining things need to be done.
1. Valve cover replacement and valve adjustment along with all new 6 NGK 6994 plugs from Rockauto, I previously replace the plugs at 85k miles but I also suspect they are counterfeit product.
2. Replace INFAMOUS T3 light bulbs went out around Navi area and through out the car, I will also fix the dam cup holder lid.
3. Brand new front Brembo caliper along with Centric blank rotor all around with new pads. Thanks god for Autozone Duralast Max life time warranty, and flush the brake fluid.
4. I will address the seat heating element once I am ready for a black interior swap.
5. Swap out the rear struts some time in future (130k miles mark)
Here are some more update pics.
Yay no more PS leak.
Centric rotors awaitting to be put on and yes all four tires is Pilot Super Sport.
I bought a set of re-manufacture Centric caliper just in the case the old Brembo threads stripping. I have to say the caliper looks brand new and there is no damage anywhere on the threads, the only down side is they don't have "ACURA" logo paint on. On the plus side they do come with new hardware and pads. If anyone need Centric part # see the third picture.
Where do you plan on gettting the interior bulbs from? 4-5 of mine have gone out in the last coupe months & I really want to replace all of them.
I think my Acura dealership wants almost $10 per bulb lol...
Where do you plan on gettting the interior bulbs from? 4-5 of mine have gone out in the last coupe months & I really want to replace all of them.
I think my Acura dealership wants almost $10 per bulb lol...
I got the bulbs from Delray Acura years ago cost me around $45 just for bulbs. I just waited for more bulb goes out before replace all of them. I also has red LED that I planning on put in around navi area since its a PITA to go back in there again.
I got some free time after got out from work so its time to restore those yellow headlight. I wet sand the headlight down and polish it then reseal the headlight using Opti-Lens.
How it looks after one polish pass on the passenger headlight. (oh no, my TL is crying).
Here is the close up looks.
Compare to the driver side which still haven't got touch yet.
Both side is done, I clean up the wet sand mess. Both headlight looks really good and I will take more pics tomorrow with better lightning.
they look new, good well done job !
could You tell me what kind of polish did You use ?
i am planning to re-do my right headlight since I am not satisfied enough with turtlewax headlight restore kit
they look new, good well done job !
could You tell me what kind of polish did You use ?
i am planning to re-do my right headlight since I am not satisfied enough with turtlewax headlight restore kit
Meguiars M105 for mowing down proccess then clean small isolate scratches with M205, be warn don't rush or you will end up putting scratch back into the headlight lens and remember to clean your pads after each pass. Once you finish the headlight don't forget to seal it properly or it will be yellow and fog up again.
Here is a long update after I spend a week straight work on the car. Majority issues had been addressed with exception of small couple issues and here are the pics.
The most infamous "Navi/ Climate control light is out" I got tired of looking at it the "Mode, Audio and Cancel" buttons goes out at the same time so its time for me to get these sucker replaced.
Before
After
And during the madness.
I also added BT-A using USA-Spec BT45-ACU
I replaced the plugs back in mid 2014 but suspecting the part are counterfeited since I bought from "ebay". I order from RockAuto (cost $55) replace them anyway for insurance.
Left plug is brand new from Rockauto and right one has approx 45k miles, you guys be the judge. All ignition oil looking good
New rotor and pads all way around, I am sicked with the vibration when the slots made contract with pads.
Here is why my pads getting chew up. The original slotted/drilled rotor has 62k miles on them they still good.
I bought a pair of Brembo caliper just in case the thread come off and to my surprise no aluminium present on the threads, BTW last time I did the brakes around 65k miles I put high temp grease on the caliper bolt and torque them down to 50 ft-lbs instead the recommended 125 ft-lbs per SM. I drove the car for 7 years ~ 64k miles with no issues with the caliper, this time I use new bolts and put silicone grease on them with 55 ft-lbs torque.
Last edited by truonghthe; 04-13-2018 at 06:48 PM.
I got some free time last weekend to change out what left of my front mount, surprisingly the side mount still intact as 1 pc. Mileage is at 118700 and I love taking this car through corner.
Finally I free up some room in the garage and brought the RL in as well, I am taking the Base as DD for now.
Mechanical wise the car is perfect every single "issue" has been address. Paint correction and engine bay detailing is next on the list.
Didn't MMade have a catastrophic issue from caliper bolts backing out...half the ft/lb and lube on it might be bad business...
other than that, love love love this thread...you make me miss my passion for the 3G.
Oh well, on to other things but great to see some guys still holding it down strong.
Didn't MMade have a catastrophic issue from caliper bolts backing out...half the ft/lb and lube on it might be bad business...
other than that, love love love this thread...you make me miss my passion for the 3G.
Oh well, on to other things but great to see some guys still holding it down strong.
I never torque to 125 ft-lbs before and I drove the car for 5 years 65k miles with no issue with caliper bolt being backing out., at the end of the days it hard to find a car that entertain and cheap to fix as the TL. I has been looking into the 2011 and up CTSV but I can afford multiple transaction at the gas station lol.
Well, I'm just saying that just because something hasn't happened doesn't mean it won't!
Anyway, loving this thread, man...CTS-V is a lot of fun. If you can in the future, jump on it.
Drove a 2012 Sedan and whatever that red color called, that has Recaro seat package, I like 4 doors but love the coupe looks. I rarely see a wagon like your tho, one of the GM has a 2013 blue wagon with MT
Not only the driveway but the entire house will get pressure washed once everything set in my plan book, I just bought the house back in Nov of last year. Let me make a shit load of mess from maint the 3 TLs and RL, the previous owner didn't a good job keeping up with TLC around the house so I have to get it straight first.
My wife wanted a black TLX. She got it but I told her she better not drive thru any dirt trails at all with that car or I'll never wash it again.
Any another plans?
Well guess what, if she does the car will never get wash anyway lol. all BS to the side some time she drove my car and I in the passenger seat telling here there is a pot hole coming up on my side, she responded "ok" and plow through the pot hole. fml
Rockstar how reliable are those CTS-V lol? I know they had issue with rear diff and supercharger shaft, but importantly did GM ever fix the issue?
Last edited by truonghthe; 05-09-2018 at 12:05 PM.
love seeing all the good work that goes into another TL!
quick question, i was told 2 years ago i had a PS pump leak but i never addressed it and have never had to add fluid to my reservoir. do you think i should do a rebuild to stop whatever is leaking? kinda confused since i never have to refill my fluid...
maybe i should do the rebuild anyways after 10 years? if i rebuild, do you recommend doing the bearing no matter what?
love seeing all the good work that goes into another TL!
quick question, i was told 2 years ago i had a PS pump leak but i never addressed it and have never had to add fluid to my reservoir. do you think i should do a rebuild to stop whatever is leaking? kinda confused since i never have to refill my fluid...
maybe i should do the rebuild anyways after 10 years? if i rebuild, do you recommend doing the bearing no matter what?
I never had to top off my PS reservoir tank either but the leak dripped down to the engine block and starting to go over the valve cover. I don't want any potential fire hazard so I bought all the seals and O-rings and bearing for replacement. its a slow leak and will accumulate over the years if ignored usually you change PS fluid about every 2-3 years anyway.
I highly recommend that you replace the bearing since my already had some slight play (rocking side to side) about .010 of an inch, with the new bearing in place the shaft spin really nice and straight. its probable the bearing play causing PS fluid leaking via the shaft. This PS pump is the final nail drive me to flush the entire PS system as I do not want the dirty PS fluid eating up my new steering rack again.
I planned to keep my TL for at least 5 more years, plus I am OCD with mechanical imperfection so every issues under the hood got addressed and now it drive like a new TL all over again. Next up is the paint correction.
I never had to top off my PS reservoir tank either but the leak dripped down to the engine block and starting to go over the valve cover. I don't want any potential fire hazard so I bought all the seals and O-rings and bearing for replacement. its a slow leak and will accumulate over the years if ignored usually you change PS fluid about every 2-3 years anyway.
I highly recommend that you replace the bearing since my already had some slight play (rocking side to side) about .010 of an inch, with the new bearing in place the shaft spin really nice and straight. its probable the bearing play causing PS fluid leaking via the shaft. This PS pump is the final nail drive me to flush the entire PS system as I do not want the dirty PS fluid eating up my new steering rack again.
I planned to keep my TL for at least 5 more years, plus I am OCD with mechanical imperfection so every issues under the hood got addressed and now it drive like a new TL all over again. Next up is the paint correction.
thank you for all the info!! i just recently decided to keep my TL for 5 years (and hopefully buy a cheaper used tlx type s in 2023) so i want to address this leak. i will order parts later this week and make the change, thanks again!
03-07-2018, 01:59 PM
My '07 TL Type Slow journey
thats soo nice tls !
