dwb993

iTrader: (13)

Every time I see this car I half expect to see a Mastodon stuck in the side of it like a tar pit! The paint is absolutely flawless. Were you the guy that sanded down the orange peel and buffed it out in an earlier thread?
From a guy who has owned and maintained a black car---you have my respect. Just beautiful.

Sondinh

iTrader: (3)

How much does the 04 TL A-Spec suspension goes for?

vancity67

how come some a spec looks lower than other a spec? I am also considering.. but some pics looks like it is not lowered at all?

SweetJazz

Thanks for the kind words. Nope, I did not wet sand the paint. Just good polishing when needed and good daily paint manintenance. I am actually very much against the wet sanding procedure on OEM paint. Clearcoat is too thin IMO. I'm just fanatical about keeping the paint looking great. What a job it is......

LTxArucAx60

iTrader: (9)

Yeah i am digging the moderate drop. It drops it a little so people would stop crying and says its needs a drop, 4x4 status, etc.

Trendzero

iTrader: (1)

Here is mine. M/T on A/T

Nick337

iTrader: (2)

anyone got a picture of the a spec M/T with some 20's on there? I wanna see how that looks?

RedAggie03

iTrader: (4)

If you have a 6MT and you want it to sit better, try what I did...A-Spec rear springs with Eibach fronts. Works PERFECT for you 6MT guys.

Project X

anyway we can just get the aspec springs instead of the shocks too?

Skier4lyfe303

iTrader: (32)

I have an 04 M/T, what will sit lower using the A/T kit or the M/T kit? And are all the kits the same height, or is the 07-08 lower?

clew55

you would not want a/t kit on your 6sp...lol. the spring rate in the a/t kit is higher than the m/t kit because the a/t tl is heavier that a m/t tl. if u want to go a-spec, you would want the m/t kit.

clew55

the a-spec suspension spring and shocks comes pre-assembled from acura/ honda.

Malloy

iTrader: (3)

Does the M/T kit on a M/T car yield an even stance, or is the rear lower? Thanks!

Chad05TL

I think this is one of the best moderate drops I have seen so far. I've seen some people drop too low, and now they are talking about aspec.

CaZper

So we can put the m/t setup on a automatic?? It seems like its a lil more lower? And would i be able to just use the aspec springs with my type s stock shocks??

-MiG-

iTrader: (3)

I dont think its worth paying for the ASPEC suspension. You barely get drop and you pay over $600?

ttribe

I suppose it depends on what you want out of your suspension. If you are looking to be much lower and don't care about ride quality, then skip the A-Spec. If you are looking for a subtle drop with excellent performance and very little sacrifice in terms of ride, A-Spec is the way to go.

dwb993

iTrader: (13)

^^Agreed. For a great moderate drop at an affordable price, go Tein H-Tech springs. I would post pics of my car, but I don't have my springs installed yet. But here are some other members:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-photograph-gallery-96/3g-tl-h-techs-if-you-were-wondering-748128/
and this thread, which convinced me to go with H-Techs:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-photograph-gallery-96/rrp-lowered-tein-h-tech-springs-724627/

the-carbon-comet

I thought I had posted better pics of mine here. MT on AT TL-S

Chad05TL

I like the spring rate of the A-spec automatic better than the manual Aspec and I dont want it too high like a 600 and I dont want to drop more than 1". So I just bought the automatic version Aspec kit. I don't want a low rider but I also dont like my present 4x4 look. At least sometimes it looks that way. My situation is the shocks are bad too. So I need shocks and springs. If I buy the Koni's and new springs, that will set me back around 800 or so. The Aspec is not as low as some others, but I do get to increase the spring rate and I get new shocks for $600 shipped. Later, if I want to, I can still add Koni's on the front for an additional 1/2" - 3/4" drop. But something tells me, 600 for Koni's is just not worth it. Especially for just a little more drop. Nevertheless, later I can decide if its worth adding Koni's. But if I do, I may only want to do it on the front. So I don't know. Have to wait and see. I may be satified with just the Aspec. People on this website say the difference is like night and day. And I do like both Aspec pictures on this post of the Blue and the White car.(which would be like mine) That is, 17" rims, & Auto on Auto. I have seen at least 1 person on here drop too low and now they want to go back up by adding Aspec springs. I want to keep my car riding nicely. A friend of mine has an 07 base TL and his car rides and handles great. So i'm not sure why my car sits about 1/4 to 1/2" higher than his. Its a small amount, but that's enough to make it look slightly different. But thats all I am trying to do here. I dont want to have the car to low. I have played around in Paint Shop pro with the Blue and White car on this particular post. And I toggle it through "Windows Picture and Fax Viewer", so I can see the difference. And the difference that Koni's would add to an Aspec setup is small, and in my opinion, it doesn't add to the looks of the car at all. It just makes it look like some kid or some 3rd world agent owns the car. So, I think Aspec's will be fine. Also, I don't really like progressive rate springs. And I'm just trying to play it safe. If It cost me more later, then ok. But I want to give it shot like this first. I suspect when i get my bass box in the rear, that will drop it a little more. but usually the Aspec auto is just higher in the front. So, again, I may just kget Koni's on only the front if I can justify 1/2 - 3/4" drop only. So that would only be about another $300 for koni's on just the front..

Overall I think everything has a draw back. Whether be the cost of Koni's, or the minimal drop of A-spec, or an aftermarket set of progressive rate springs that may drop me too much. I think each one is something negative about it. So I'm just taking a first step in playing it safe. Because I like my TL.. And if I want a corvette, then i'll by a corvette. But I dont want to try an make this TL into something extreme. Later, I'll post pictures so you all can poke fun at me. But with this order, I also purchased the Aspec Emblem and the painted black splash guards. So i think the profile will change. And thats why I'm just taking these smaller steps first because I want to see what it looks like before going too far. Koni's and Aspec kit together is over $1000 for both. So, thats why I am just doing the Aspec first. And I dont want any other springs on my car.

I hate cars

Not everyone is looking for just a drop. Some people care about actual performance and a-spec delivers. It greatly improves handling balance. IMO it's the perfect balance of performance and comfort in a daily driver. I'll put the balanced a-spec suspension against a lower aftermarket suspension anyday on the track.

I hate cars

Not sure what you mean by the bold part. I run Konis for better control of my spring/swaybar combo and to make the car sit level which it did not with just the 6mt a-spec on my 5at.

3/4" of a drop is very noticable. The first thing I did to my car was Konis on stock springs and along with the subs in the trunk it made a huge difference in the looks.

Chad05TL

Ok IHC, so lets say that 3/4" is a lot.. And if 3/4 is a lot, then add another 1/2"-3/4" with new springs would be way too much for me(like 1.5"). I dont want that much drop. But if I just used the Koni's on the medium perch level that is only about 1/4" drop instead of 3/4", then you have to ask yourself, Is it worth it? I mean Koni's are really expensive for only using them a little bit. I would hate to not use all the 3/4" if I bought them. That's like 50% of their best features. (Drop and dampening). But again, I may get some for the front later if I want to. I just to see what happens with the Aspec kit first. All I really want is to give my car a profile my friends car has. So I suspect 1/2" will do it. Plus I get a little higher spring rate with the Aspec without going up to 600 like some other springs. And I don't like variable rate springs. Soft on top and stiff on bottom. yuk.

But all this doesnt matter much anyway, because I'll be driving another car in a few years anyway. That's the way it works. Cars are destine to the grave as soon as you start it up and drive. So how much do you want to invest? Do you think anyone is going to pull you over and say "MAN CHAD, that Extra 1/4" ReallY MAdE the DiFference!" Or will they chase you down and say "Chad Those wheels are so AWESOME!". haha no.

Anyways, why did your car not sit level? seems odd. Either bad springs or a twisted frame.

Chad05TL

The reason I said all that is because, see, I had a Camaro Z28 that I literally converted into an SS. Ram air hood, SS spoiler, 35mm sway bars, eibach springs, changed out the interior to have a trans am cluster and everything else red illumination, I installed SLP 17" wheels, electric water pump, larger throttle body and more. So I know what it means to mod a car. And what happened? I ended up selling it when I got tired of working on it. And it got old. I mean age wise as well as working on it. ugh. At that time, I also bought an 89 Honda Accord for a 2nd car. The guy that had the Honda before me, did literally nothing to it. I begin to fix the basic things the Honda needed. Then I compared what he did to the car, which was just drive it until the wheels fell off, to what I was doing to the Camaro. And even though i think its good to work on your own car, I also realized the futility of going overboard. Not only the waste of effort, but also economically speaking, it's going to be really amazing if you can get the money back out of the car that you have invested. So even though he did nothing to the honda, I still saw some benefit to not touching it. Technically speaking, the car will run even with floaty shocks. haha right? So I have learned to moderate this "tweaking thing" due to the "worth it" factor. But still, for some reason I am still compelled to keep my car up.

I hate cars

Subs in the rear. The front had to come down a little more to be even and have a slight rake. This was for handling reasons too. With the nose in the air, it understeered more.

It's not about other people but you can see 1/4" especially once it's lowered a little. If a-spec takes it down 1/2" to 3/4" in the front, you will be able to see an additional 1/4" as that gap closes. If you only did 1/4" total it would be hard to see.

I loved just the Konis on stock springs with the 3/4" drop. The car looked sooo much better but people who didn't know the car would not know it's been lowered. Now you can tell it's been lowered which I really don't like. It's not bad and I've had people ask me if it was lowered which means to me that it's not so bad that just anyone looks at it and can tell. I'm 33 and the last thing I want is to be put into the 18yr old slammed TL crowd.

I think you're going about it the right way, one change at a time and some drive time to see if you like if first.

I can tell you now that if you plan on doing subs, the rear will sit slightly lower than the front.

You're right about all of these cars being destined for the grave. That's why I think it's important to get the modding out of the way and do it right the first time so you can enjoy driving it longer with the mods. We all have different goals. I'm keeping mine until it's no longer cost effective to keep it. It's almost paid off and when I buy a new car I'll probably keep the TL around as a backup car and possibly a track day car.

One thing I did want to bring up and it's a little off topic but I thought I would mention it.

The a-spec suspension performane wise is all you will ever need on a regular street tire where grip levels are normal. With my NT05s I find myself wanting a little more yet I'm not willing to give up the ride comfort to get it. On street tires, between the a-spec, Konis, and swaybars, it had no noticable bodyroll. On the NT05s, the grip level is high enough that it does have some bodyroll. I'm not touching it until it's paid off and I have another car to drive daily but I wish I had planned ahead.

I hate cars

Yes, it's very hard to know when to stop. Another reason I think the a-spec option will be great for you. And believe me, fighting the bodyshop for the past 1.5 years, having a factory suspension came in real handy when they were trying to place blame.

When I bought this car I had plans to keep it bone stock forever especially with a 600rwhp car in the garage. Even now, I look at it and think what the hell did I do. I guess one part is boredom. The other is I told myself that I would only upgrade worn out stock parts which is pretty much what has happened. Stock shocks went soft, I got Konis. Stock swaybar bushings needed to be replaced, I got a front and rear swaybar set. Stock brakes were warped, got the 13" big brake kit. Springs are another story lol.

I think we're on the same page of trying to keep the car somewhat "mature" looking.

Chad05TL

I'm also saving money for a house. I'm tired of noisy apartments and moving so much. So just 1 more reason to not throw a bunch of money to something I don't need, especially now. With the Aspec I can get springs and shocks. The springs really dont need to be changed. Its the shocks that are bad. floaty floaty floaty.. So I'm going overboard even getting the springs. But if I have to remove the springs to change the shocks, then I'm just going to get the kit and do it all at once, and I know there wont be any surprises during installation since its Facorty Acura equipment.

I hate cars

On top of that, since they come as a unit you won't need a spring compressor or any special tools to do the install. VERY easy to do. If you're paying someone to do it, it may be a little cheaper for the same reasons.

Chad05TL

Ya thats another reason why I liked them. Plug and play. But I do have 2 spring compressors left over from my camaro. They were pretty cheap. But still.. I don't want to have to bother with compression and decompression. Just lookin for a trash can. haha Ain't I funny? hehe

binhsterbinh

Just got done installing swapping out Neuspeed Sport springs/Koni SP3 to Eibach Pro-Kit springs on cousin's TL-S. Reason being - ride had too little suspension travel and was harsh. The Neuspeed Springs are rated at 320lb/235lb which are pretty soft rates. I think the main contributor to harsh ride conditions was mainly the suspension travel even at higher perch settings. The Neuspeeds/Konis were on the 5th perch up front and rears were at the 4th perch with the stock bump stops in place. Even at the highest perch settings, the car would hit those bump stops pretty easily. As for the drop, it was about 3/4" lower than my A-Spec Suspension (6MT version on my 5AT). As discussed in the past, the TL in stock form nearly sits on those bump stops, so any drop will rest the car on those foam bumpers.
On the other hand, the Eibach Pro-Kit gave him exactly what he was looking for which was a more comfortable ride for street driving. The spring rates feel very soft, but it is difficult to discern whether this was due to the springs or fact that the Eibach TL-S springs came with rear bump stops that were half the length of the OEM ones. We also trimmed the front bumpers 1/2" and set the front to the 4th perch and rear to the 5th perch trying to get as much travel as possible. I believe my cousin is extremely satisfied with the results. He says it feels the similar to stock TL-S as far as ride comfort. Since he has the Progress RSB/TL-S FSB, body roll is still kept to a minimum. The car is still lower than my A-Spec TL by about 1/2" all around.

By comparison, we both agreed that my A-Spec TL rides firmer than his Eibach/Koni SP3 combination. I understand his Koni shocks are doing an excellent job at dampening the Eibach springs, but the TL A-Spec spring rates feel firmer which I prefer. In the end, if I were to build the ultimate setup for street driving conditions, I'd probably want to see what the A-Spec springs/Koni shocks setup feels like similar to what IHC has. After I installed the TL-S Front Sway bar with Energy Bushings, I wish I could increase the rebound dampening of the front shocks a little. That is where the Konis come into play. ; )

As a further aside, it's a much more PITA to install Koni SP3/Lowering springs than to install a fully assembled A-Spec suspension.

Chad05TL

Thanks for the comments. I agree about those Eibachs. THey are a pretty soft spring on top for a softer ride but they do have a tendoncy to hit hard if you hit a big enough bump.. which is true with most cars I guess.. But I didn't know for sure that the Aspec was stiffer, but it does make perfect sense. I do like the constant rate springs for that.. and therefore they should provide a more sporty feel when just cruising too. And i'm also glad to hear that the Aspec installation is much easier to install than the rest. I was assuming that before I bought my Aspec.. which has not been delivered yet. But I also agree that the Aspec springs and the Koni's would be an ideal setup if a person can afford it and if you want to go the extra mile during installation. I might go that route later also, but for now, just Aspec kit for me. Also, as I noted somehwere above, if the rear is low enough and drives ok, then you may just consider putting Koni's on the front only. That would cut the cost down somewhat. anyway.. cheers.

Chad05TL

I'm installing the aspec automatic on my automatic and visually, the spring assembly looks indentical. Maybe just a tad difference but both have 8 spring wraps, and both springs look the same thickness.. The part #'s are different but I sure hope they sent the right thing. I'll post pictures maybe tomorrow.

I hate cars

I went through the same thing. I thought someone sent me stock springs and I was checking part numbers and making emergency posts on here to try and figure it out before I installed them. Once installed, they were obviously the right ones due to the drop and extra stiffness.

The thing I was worried about is if they're the same uncompressed height and the same number of winds and diameter, how do they provide a drop AND extra stiffness..... But somehow they did.

Chad05TL

thanks for the reply IHC.. I was hoping you would. So, that makes me feel better.. But I just installed my first front assembly on the drivers side, and lowered it without moving the vehicle.. and I measured the height again and its totally exactly the same height as the other used ones I had. that is 26 7/16". Both right and left measure the exact height also. I'll see how the other side turns out but I'm sure it will be the same. Now, after I get everything on, I'll drive the car and move it around and see if the height changes any fraction amount. But so far it couldnt be any closer to the exactly the same. It may drop slightly after I drive it because of the angle inwhich the tire drops when you lower the vehicle.. But if it was just 1/2" I'd be happier. haha

I hate cars

It will drop nearly half an inch just from driving it the first time. It may settle a little more over the next month. I know it's worrisome when you look at it at first and it's the same height but it should settle out the first time you hit a bump.

Now that I think about it, when I first did a-spec I did it with the Konis on the stock height. When I went back and did the Konis on the low setting, the side I had lowered stayed almost the same height until I lowered the second side. Maybe it's the swaybar helping link it all together.

Chad05TL

Ya, if you had one side lower than the other on those Koni's, in my opinion, the overall ride height would nutralize(sorta) between the left and the right(due to the sway-bar like you said). So it probably put a twist on the bar and you didnt realize it. I suspect that added twist in one direction, made it handle better turning one direction than the other. .. Anyway, I just finished the passenger side too and both front sides are still 26 7/16". So, But I still have not driven it yet and thats just sitting the car down from the jack. And that's always a weird angle when the tire strikes the pavement. While I had the front right tire off, I just changed the oil and I also put the 2 front Splash guards on.. haha I'm having some fun today.. And we just got a Cold front in Dallas while I was in the garage. Perfect timing.

Chad05TL

what happens if you get the right and left rear reversed? Hey both of them say R on the rear shocks.. normal? I got 1 side on and 1 off

Slpr04UA6

Not today!! Lol! I am almost positive both sides for the rear are identical, therefore can be used on either side. <-That is the shocks your talking about correct? If it is the spring, I think it would be the same as well.

Chad05TL

yes sir. Both rear shocks appear to be identical. I didnt know that until I finished the right side then I got to the drivers side and it says R. I was like OH My Gosh.. But I got to looking and even the right side says R. So both are like that. And I think the white dots point toward the front and the single green dot points to the rear. Fortuneately I got the first one right and didnt know it. Funny aint I. Ya, i started looking at it to see if there is a difference.. and there is a slight slope to the top of the assembly. The slope fits flush with the frame of the car at the top. If its backwards, it could cause a gap and/or make noise. Worse case, it may bend the upper body frame to mold to the spring assembly. Thanks for the quick reply!

Slpr04UA6

Cool, glad you got it installed! Let us know what you think, and throw up some pics.