truonghthe

honestly for condition like that here you be lucky if you getting $250. Refinishing isn't cheap its like $100-$125 per wheel that will add up really quick, good condition Aspec wheel here sold for $450 with tires and TPMS couple weeks back.

4drturbo

thanks guys for the comments. I passed on them. Too rough and really not keen on the looks of them really.

4drturbo

Having a small issue with my TL. I noticed when accelerating it bogged quite a bit. Like it lost some power. Just cruising around its fine. It idles fine. Some days there is no problems, other days it has some lag. I checked the air filter a couple weeks ago and it seemed to be alright, was dirty but not too bad. So I ordered a new one the other day.

Any ideas what would cause the bogging? No CEL. Car has 113k on it now. Catalytic converter? I don't smell any sulfur smell. I know a local had his go out on his type S years ago and the car was down on power quite a bit.
Fuel filter? I have a universal Ultra gauge I am going to hook up to the OBD2 port. Any parameters I should check? Car only see's 91 octane. but I filled it up with 93 the last fill up. Spark plugs and wires were done at 80k, so they should still be good. No misfire codes.

I did recently put a new battery in it a couple weeks ago due to my battery going dead. I also disconnected the HFL since I think it was causing a parasitic drain on my battery. My old battery tested fine, but I got a new one and sold my old one for $50 to a co worker. Other than that the car has been very reliable and really no problems. Hope to hit 200k in it some day on original transmission and motor.

MyGuti

try an ecu reset

4drturbo

I already did that when I removed the battery and put a new one in. I think its transmission related at this point.

truonghthe

The trans is fine, our TL doesn't like hot weather. don't believe me? drive it during midnight and you will see for yourself. during the day its sooooo slow especially with this heat.

4drturbo

Yeah I get off around 3:00am from work. I believe it was my air filter. Car seems to run fine now. Not sluggish. I am going to do the transmission fluid though again here soon. Just been stupid busy.

My drivers side seat looks horrible. I need to figure out how to get that fixed. I hate leather so much.

truonghthe

hate leather? have you seed the drive seat in my KBP? lol

4drturbo

Mine is worse I bet! I have mine covered in a tan duct tape where it is ripping. It keeps getting worse.

4drturbo

Well I haven't checked the transmission fluid in quite some time. So after coming home from work on Friday I shut the car off and waited a minute and then checked the fluid. There was fluid on the stick but it was below the minimum line! So I topped it off and now its good. Haven't driven the car since topping it off so we shall see how it drives.

Car needs an alignment too. Pulls to the left pretty good on the interstate. Has been doing it for quite some time. Last time I got it aligned they said they couldn't do the rear unless I got some sort of $$$ kit.Luckily the rear wasn't that bad out. I think it was to adjust the camber in the rear..Could of been the toe too. Not sure.

truonghthe

Chance are your rear trailing toe arm seized, this is common issue for TL come from the snow belt area. I already replaced it on my red TL and the KBP got replace shorty prior to my ownership.

4drturbo

Well tires are not wearing bad. So I can live with it for now.
So this is odd, I finally had a problem with this car!

Had an issue with a battery drain. Bluetooth has been disconnected for quite some time. So wasn't sure what it could be.
Battery didn't have hardly any volts or anything, like SUPER dead. Took it to OReillys and they charged it up and told me it had only 25% life left!? Battery was only 3 months old. So I got out my battery tester and it said the state of health was 82% and was good. I also did a charging and cranking test and all was well with my tester. So I put it back in the car and drove it that day no issues... Woke up the next day, battery dead AGAIN! So I am like, there has to be something else drawing current.

Rewind a day prior to my battery being completely dead...The fiancé and I took the TL on a 3hr road trip each way and I noticed on the way back the AC stopped blowing air. I was like great! So once I got home I turned the car off and had to run some errands and the AC was working fine.

So I researched parasitic draws these cars have and I read about the AC Compressor Relay causing a problem. No idea why. So I got a new AC Compressor Relay at Oreilly's for $7~ and took my dead battery there to get charged again. Went back the next day and the battery they said was bad and wouldn't charge it again. They gave me a print out. So I went to Big O Tire where I got my battery from and got a new battery for free. Put the new battery in and the new relay in and all has been fine since!
Would it be wise to get an OEM AC Compressor Relay for safe measure? They are around $18. Here is a thread on the upgraded Relay:
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-.../#post14545907

Tyrone503

I would definitely get the A05 relay for safe measure.

4drturbo

Yeah I ordered it. A seller on eBay had a bunch but not in original Honda packaging for $2 less. So I spent an extra $2 to make sure I got a Honda part.

So I did a 2x transmission drain and fill with DW1 at 115,XXX. Car seems to run pretty good. I still need to do the pressure sensors I bought OEM Honda ones a couple years ago. So I need to see what is involved in replacing those. I think I got 3rd and 4th gear with the correct washers.. Will have to check it has been a while haha.
My main concern with the car is the nasty drivers side seat. Leather is just coming apart. I used dome duct tape but its just made it worse. So what options do I have? Don't really want to do a seat cover, I believe you can just replace the lower cushion correct? Here is a picture:

I also cleaned and waxed the car and I drive by the place every day on my way home from work around 3 am. It has this cool blue light around the building. "Main Event Entertainment" So I took some photos with my phone. Unedited night pictures don't come out the best haha. But hey its a recent photo of my daily driver that I love!

Tyrone503

Oh really nice pictures. You can get the bottom cushion and cover separate from the dealer but the prices are insane. I've been trying to find a source that sells something that is an exact oem match, but I haven't had any luck. Let me know if you ever do.

4drturbo

Will do I see there are numerous threads on different sites. I might just take it to an upholstery auto shop and see what they will charge and get quotes.

Oil went down to 15% life so went ahead and changed it. Had a new drain plug that I bought months ago since my OEM one is rounded off. HAs been rounded off since I bought the car, just got worse and worse.
I think my transmission and motor mounts need to be changed at some point. Car has 115,XXX on it so I am sure there will be more things that will need to be replaced soon. $$$$

Anyone know what typically goes out around this mileage on these cars? Alternator, HID ballasts, starter? Suspension is nice and tight all around still.

truonghthe

I never had to replaced ignitor, ballast on any car I ever owned that has factory HID. I did have to change the bulb once in my Lexus and at the time the car has 200k miles.

As far as starter and alternator goes, I had seen a trend around 130k miles mark.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

The only trend I've seen regarding the electronic parts is the starter; mine was going strong until COVID, when I started driving only once every two or three weeks; that ended up killing the starter. Then again, the car had nearly 170,000 miles on it, so the starter didn't owe me anything.

As to your question, with 115,000 miles on your car, timing belt, water pump, tensioners and pulleys, cam seals, front main crank seal, oil pump seal. Some time in the next few years figure on new motor mounts, axles, stabilizer bar bushings and end links, and maybe a power steering pump.

nist7

For seats, the prior owner of my 06 base TL took it to a upholstery shop locally in KC and I saw the receipt as part of the paperwork when I bought the car and they spent $400/seat to completely redo the ENTIRE driver and passenger seats. I can say that having sat in other 3G TLs with the OG leather...the newly upholstered seats felt MUCH better even after now that I've owned it for about 6 years now and it has ZERO crack/deformation/etc. The rear sears are torn to shreds since the prior owner only did the fronts, which kinda make sense. I'll see if I can find that shop name and let you know.

Very expensive BUT if you can swing the money and you plan to keep it for long time AND you don't want to DIY...may be worth it (maybe just do the driver side for now)...but again my drivers seat looks and feels really nice even after 6 years (and this is in a daily beater too....)

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

As with everything else maintenance related with these cars, the fix ain't necessarily inexpensive, but hey, WAAAAY less expensive than buying a new car. I'd have no issue what-so-ever spending fifteen-hundred to two-thousand to have new skins put on the seats of my car.

nist7

Yup, so for $800 for both fronts it's not bad at all (high quality work is a must of course). The rear seats look a LOT more DIY friendly so you can probably take a weekend, order some leather kits online and DIY it.

Then you have a MUCH better driving experience. It's really incredible how much difference a nicely upholstered seat is...since your butt is in there 100% of the time you're driving the car so the value/$ is very very high.

4drturbo

There was a local who had his ballast go out at like 140k or so? But he might of messed with the lights I am not sure. I will keep an eye on the alternator and starter. Any good aftermarket replacements for those 2 items? Or OEM Honda the only way to go? $$$?

Gotcha, yeah I already had timing belt/waterpump etc done at 79k. Honda tech said he will only replace those oil seals if they are leaking and rarely ever see's them leak on these cars. Keep an eye on those other items thanks!

The passenger seat is mint, along with rears. No one sits back there ever. I just need drivers seat done. Let me know if you figure out what shop did it, interested. Very impressive, seems like its holding up very well.


I plan on never selling the car. I did a lot of research to buying a comfortable reliable car and very happy with it. Only thing I wish was it got better gas mileage.

What about 02 sensors? And CATylitic converter? Luckily in Kansas there are no emission testing. So if it ever clogs I will just go with a Catless or high flow cat.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, that gets said a lot; of course there are many-many of us here with cars somewhere between the first and second timing belt replacement with some or all of those seals leaking. I've had two J-Series engines, and both started leaking from the front cam seals somewhere around the 150,000 mile range, and one of them started leaking past the oil pump seal; so much for what the technicians say.

truonghthe

Starter and alternator you can buy Denso from Rock Auto, its literally almost the same thing as OEM.

4drturbo

Good to know.

Some updates on my TL. At 117k now. Haven't had the loose gas cap thing come on since I changed that EVAP purge valve. So that's a nice plus.

A couple weeks ago I was doing a moderate acceleration pull and the check engine light was flashing and the car was bucking. Guess I have a misfire. Haven't had a flashing check engine light recently but I do notice under moderate acceleration after the car is warmed up I get a slight hesitation in the RPMs kind of fluctuate and I can hear a slight popping so I'm guessing I do have a misfire I had the plugs replaced with OEM about 39k miles ago. Still on the factory coil o n plug wires. Due those ever go out? I am that
​type of person that just sends up replacing parts to diagnose an issue lol. I'm pretty sure the intake gasket was replaced when I had the timing belt service done. So not sure to rule out a vacuum leak. Should I just go ahead and change the plugs and spend the money on new wires? Not sure where to start out with the diagnosis. Car seems to drive fine 90% of the time when I floor it, It goe! and doesn't seem to misfire! Light acceleration it seems to be fine too. There has been no stable check engine light for anything, no codes at all. Just that flash check engine light like two times in the past. So I have an issue somewhere... I know a misfire could be a number of things since I've had to solve them on prior cars lol. Wasn't sure if I could get some feedback from you guys that might have experienced the same issue with their TL!

DhruvK18

Congrats! KBP is beautiful. I was going to get a KBP one but ended up getting NBP because it was in much better condition

4drturbo

Thanks. It is indeed a great color. Has a sparkle to it and sometimes has a purple hue under certain lighting which throws me off. I fell in love with it when I originally saw it in person and drove it. Glad to be the 2nd owner!

Update on the plug issue. I pulled one plug and it was at .080!!!!! So I went online and ordered new NGK 6994's from Advance Auto with a 25% off coupon! I replaced them all the other day. 3 of them were .085!
Spark plug job wasn't too bad. I didn't remove the strut tower brace. I used swivel extensions for the rear plugs near the firewall. I also had enough room to use my torque wrench and torque them ALL to the factory spec of 13ft lbs.
Car idles super smooth now and acceleration is soooo much nicer! I believe that was my issue all along. Just crazy how the iridium tip was completely gone. I might of had the NGK Chinese knock off's installed when I had my timing belt job done 39k miles ago...They looked like they had 117k on them though, so who knows if they were even replaced...

xjokerz

How's your car doing now?

4drturbo

Runs perfect! 119,6XX now

xjokerz

I can't stop looking at a 3rd gen TL when I see one. It's definitely a looker. I saw a first gen TSX earlier today and I think those are attractive, but these are on another level.

4drturbo

Yes the TSX looks great too!

So I was grocery shopping with my lady and was going back out to my car I noticed a TC I was thinking to myself "wow those wheels look good" and then my lady said looks like he's got the same wheels as you. 😂 I am on factory wheels. So I took a picture. They are the König Ampliforms. Thinking about getting a set for my TL. One of my wheels is supposedly bent so it's in the rear so I don't really feel it there's a lot of curb rash on the waffles too. I've been thinking about getting a set of new wheels for my car I just wanted to find the right set and I think these look great and look very OEM ish. They are light too. The question is what size should I get them in 17's or 18's? I'm kind of leaning towards 18's and then what color? Bronze or the graphite that's pictured on that TC? Kind of leaning towards the graphite after seeing the bronze on another TL via Google that he was running 19's

4drturbo

been 6 months since I posted here. Got a used set of wheels and tires for a very cheap price during the summer. Came off a 2006 TL. Tires are hankook Kinergy PT I believe. 235/45/17. Like new tires. Going to be my winter setup. Getting quotes to get my OEM TL-S wheels refurbished to like new condition. And one of the wheels is supposedly bent according to discount tire. So getting that fixed too. One place quoted $650 for all 4 wheels and to fix the bent wheel. Waiting to hear from the other place.


Haven't had the car aligned in a while. Been about 2 or 3 years I believe.
My front drivers side is trashed:

Passenger side is fine since it is newer due to being replaced under warranty.
The rears are cupping pretty good:


car has 126k now. so going to get all 4 struts replaced and an alignment done. trying to figure out what shocks and springs to get. want oem but they are discontinued it looks like. the complete setups that is.looks like tire rack has some nice koni setups for a decent price. i made a post about it in the suspension section.

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

Get yourself some BC coils and you'll be good to go. Also, I would go 18's for aftermarket wheels. save the $650 to refurbish your waffles since you have a stock set for winter already.

4drturbo

Appreciate your thoughts. I tossed around the idea of BC coilovers I think they're around $1,300 or so. Which is pretty tough # to swallow. But I really don't want to be low. I like the OEM ride height and ride quality. Yes I have the 2006 TL wheels for winter so I can get the waffles refurbished for spring/summer/fall as my nice set of wheels.

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

Waffles don't look bad, but they do look worse than a nice set of aftermarket wheels. If the cost of BC is hard to swallow, you could always get into Tein. They make a decent product and I was happy with my ride quality when I had the Street Advance installed. My wife hates lowered vehicles because they tend to ride harder than stock but she was impressed and ok with the ride quality it had. I was in no way slammed but closed the wheel gap up for the cleaner look.

4drturbo

that is a tough call. i have seem nasty looking aftermarket wheels that are a huge downgrade on the TL. majority of the ones i have seen in the gallery are pretty bad. But of course you got the stance boys with the high dollar ones that look neat. not my style though. I think the OEM Waffle wheels look amazing. Only in the OEM color.

I talked to my older brother who is a big Honda guy and he said I should put that money towards an aftermarket set :/ I don't think he can justify spending $650 to make a used set of wheels look new. He is a believer in buying new and selling old, and its fun to change up the appearance. He does love the look of the OEM waffle wheels.

Looks like I will go with Koni Yellows or KYB GR's on stock springs. I will price it all out. I will probably put new upper mounts on too since those wear out.

4drturbo

So dropped the car to get aligned at a local shop. car has been pulling to the left on the interstate for quite some time. was charged $90 after tax and was told they couldnt do the rear end since the rear toe was maxed out. was told to get aftermarket control arms so they could dial in the rear toe. Would charge me half for the alignment next time with the control arms installed. all they adjusted was the front toe. :/
ordered the spc alignment control arms 67295. Roughly $130 after tax with shipping with 20% code via Autozone. hopefully get the alignment dialed in after install. dont want to put new tires on and have the tires wear weird.

Midnight Mystery

I'm installing the same kit in my S soon too. Update us on how it goes!

truonghthe

They couldn't do the rear because it max out? I called it BS. Have a Honda special shop or dealer checking to see if you got the Honda infamous frozen trailing arm to toe adjustment. Every single TL living in snow state having this kind of issue and the solution is to cut the arm and drill the bolt out as its completely seized.

For the seat torn, you can get replacement set (just a cover even you buy OEM) from Ebay or your local seat shop can fix by replacing the entire perforated insert. As far as suspension goes, if you ever decided to go coils BC coil is a must as Tein are soft even at it full stiff setting.

4drturbo

2 different alignment shops said the same thing, idk. you are probably right. i will look into that. that sounds very expensive if you have a shop do it. refering to drilling the bolt out.

i am thinking about just replacing the rear shocks. just not sure if there are any good oem replacemtns available.

seats not a big deal right now but i will look into fixing the seat. its my daily driver so i am not sure if a shop could fix it in one day. i would hope they can.

i got new tires, and dropped my oem waffles off to a guy who is going to refurbish them and make them like again n. he is going to use kingsport gray. very close to the oem color but with more flake. 2 week turnaround time. can't wait to get the like new waffles back on the car.

car has been running great.at 128888 now. oil at 20 percent. going to change it soon