Your ultimate guide to OEM TL flywheels and clutches
#1
Brock
Thread Starter
Your ultimate guide to OEM TL flywheels and clutches
My quest to find a nice OEM clutch/flywheel has resulted in success, but I've had to
accumulate 3 sets of clutches/flywheels. As everyone knows, the options for J-Series
clutches and flywheels are extremely limited. My research will help shed some light
on the subject and for some us, we have a nice option...
Exhibit A: J37 flywheel on the left, J35 in the middle and J32 on the right.
For those that don't know, the J32 and J35 flywheels are NOT interchangeable.
The main difference is the ring gear location. It's further away from the block on
the J35 application. The clutch case part of the transmission is different for the J35 block.
Besides the block mounting surface, the starter location is further back on the J35 trans.
The starter is the same though for all 04'~08 MT TLs. The J37 flywheel has the same ring
gear position as the J35 and after some other measurements, looks like a viable direct
fit onto a J35. What I like about the J37 flywheel is that it is made by Exedy. Very high
quality. It also doesn't have the rotational slop like the Luk flywheels (J32 and J35). The
J37 clutch and disc is also made by Exedy. The clutch is the main attraction here. No self-
adjusting crap. Just a normal clutch. This is what made me investigate the J37 clutch/flywheel
in the first place. One thing to note is that this clutch cannot be used on the J35 flywheel.
The locating pins are a slightly different circle diameter and the distance from the mounting
surface to the friction surface is different by 2mm.
There are 2 negatives with the J37 setup.
1. Price. Unless you are lucky enough to find a nice used one, a brand new flywheel is over $1K.
2. Weight. The J37 flywheel and clutch both weigh more than the J35 setup (see following table).
Disclaimer: I haven't installed the J37 flywheel/clutch on my engine yet, so I can't comment any
further than my visual observations and measurements of the parts. Weights could be off by as
much as 1/2 lb due to me using a vehicle scale that does not display fractional units.
Measurements rounded to the nearest .25 mm.
accumulate 3 sets of clutches/flywheels. As everyone knows, the options for J-Series
clutches and flywheels are extremely limited. My research will help shed some light
on the subject and for some us, we have a nice option...
Exhibit A: J37 flywheel on the left, J35 in the middle and J32 on the right.
For those that don't know, the J32 and J35 flywheels are NOT interchangeable.
The main difference is the ring gear location. It's further away from the block on
the J35 application. The clutch case part of the transmission is different for the J35 block.
Besides the block mounting surface, the starter location is further back on the J35 trans.
The starter is the same though for all 04'~08 MT TLs. The J37 flywheel has the same ring
gear position as the J35 and after some other measurements, looks like a viable direct
fit onto a J35. What I like about the J37 flywheel is that it is made by Exedy. Very high
quality. It also doesn't have the rotational slop like the Luk flywheels (J32 and J35). The
J37 clutch and disc is also made by Exedy. The clutch is the main attraction here. No self-
adjusting crap. Just a normal clutch. This is what made me investigate the J37 clutch/flywheel
in the first place. One thing to note is that this clutch cannot be used on the J35 flywheel.
The locating pins are a slightly different circle diameter and the distance from the mounting
surface to the friction surface is different by 2mm.
There are 2 negatives with the J37 setup.
1. Price. Unless you are lucky enough to find a nice used one, a brand new flywheel is over $1K.
2. Weight. The J37 flywheel and clutch both weigh more than the J35 setup (see following table).
Disclaimer: I haven't installed the J37 flywheel/clutch on my engine yet, so I can't comment any
further than my visual observations and measurements of the parts. Weights could be off by as
much as 1/2 lb due to me using a vehicle scale that does not display fractional units.
Measurements rounded to the nearest .25 mm.
Last edited by Euro-R_Spec_TSX; 03-09-2014 at 10:06 PM.
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#4
Brock
Thread Starter
J37 clutch/flywheel installed on my... J37.
Don't get too excited though because the engine may not be back in the car for a couple of months.
Don't get too excited though because the engine may not be back in the car for a couple of months.
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gerzand (08-13-2014)
#5
Three Wheelin'
Why didn't you opt for aftermarket lightweight options?
#6
All motor
Very, very nice! Can't wait to see this beast.
Are there any aftermarket options for the J37 at this point? Not that I've searched, but I don't think I've seen any thus far. And being that you have the J37, the 3.2 parts will not fit on that motor as you have described.
Are there any aftermarket options for the J37 at this point? Not that I've searched, but I don't think I've seen any thus far. And being that you have the J37, the 3.2 parts will not fit on that motor as you have described.
#7
Brock
Thread Starter
I'm not aware of any aftermarket flywheels that utilize the J37 clutch.
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#8
Brock
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by FamilyGuy
Why didn't you opt for aftermarket lightweight options?
1. Too much pedal effort for my taste (was almost twice as much as stock).
2. Too light for stock FD gear.
#9
All motor
Check the CM FX250 kit w/ the AASCO Flywheel. The pedal is JUST like stock, maybeeeee even a tiny bit less.
The following users liked this post:
Euro-R_Spec_TSX (08-10-2014)
#10
Brock
Thread Starter
The research continues
No J37 clutch install/test yet, but soon. However I only plan to test the clutch pedal feel after temporarily installing the engine/trans. I decided I probably want a lighter flywheel, however the options are very limited for clutches. Since the CM FX250 kit just uses a modified LuK SA clutch, I figured I would try to find a damped disc to use with the new OEM (LuK) clutch kit that I bought a while ago but never used. I only found one option here that's the right size/spline. Turns out that the OEM Acura Legend (5-speed only) has a conventional clutch and disc that is the same size. The only difference is that the Legend disc is .5mm thicker than the LuK disc. Not sure if this is enough to create any kind of bind, but I plan on testing it anyway. The only possible issue that I see is that this disc was designed for an engine with less torque, so the damping springs might be under-rated. Pics below of Legend OEM disc (made by Exedy) and a new AASCO flywheel.
#11
Three Wheelin'
AASCO is really good choice
#12
Brock
Thread Starter
I think Spec uses the same clutch for stage 1 and stage 2 but different discs.
#13
Three Wheelin'
Disc is def different, mine is Kevlar, stage 1 looks like yours above. PP might have different tongues too, or whatever the tabs are called, because IIRC they have diff torque specs, unless the disc material also affects the torque spec?
Edit: my info is for a type s, not sure about other models.
Edit: my info is for a type s, not sure about other models.
Last edited by FamilyGuy; 04-23-2015 at 06:12 PM.
#14
Brock
Thread Starter
I call them fingers.
Mine was also for Type-S and yes, the material can make a difference. I think the torque capacity was only 50 foot lbs difference between the S1 and S2?
Does yours chatter at all?
Mine was also for Type-S and yes, the material can make a difference. I think the torque capacity was only 50 foot lbs difference between the S1 and S2?
Does yours chatter at all?
#15
Three Wheelin'
70lbs diff, not much. Stage 1 starts at 410lbs, which is a good amount already.
No chatter here. From what I've seen and read around, chatter starts around stage 3 and up. My friend has one in his VW Golf R and he gets a little bit of chatter. Some do, some don't, but seems to start from 3 and up.
I did have to re-adjust the pedal at first, it was grabbing too high up top in the travel. Drives great now and effortlessly.
No chatter here. From what I've seen and read around, chatter starts around stage 3 and up. My friend has one in his VW Golf R and he gets a little bit of chatter. Some do, some don't, but seems to start from 3 and up.
I did have to re-adjust the pedal at first, it was grabbing too high up top in the travel. Drives great now and effortlessly.
#16
Brock
Thread Starter
I'm still curious about the different pedal effort. Maybe a noob employee was working that day at the Spec factory and I got a stage 2+ or stage 3 pressure plate by accident.
#17
Three Wheelin'
So what are you doing? 3.7L install? In what car?
#19
#20
So will a j35 clutch set-up, work with a j37 transmission? I have a j35a8 but a j37 manual transmission. There are NO UPGRADES for the J37 but many custom flywheels and clutches for the J35. Would I be able to use a J35 clutch set-up?
#21
Three Wheelin'
Why did you use a j37 tranny on a j35a8? Final drive gear ratio?
#22
All motor
This gun be good...
#23
Brock
Thread Starter
Update: J37 engine installed with full J37 OEM clutch and flywheel. There are still many things to install and connect but I tested the clutch pedal feel and it's totally normal.
I plan on leaving this setup as is for now. The J37 clutch/flywheel is a good match for the J37 engine.
First, let me correct you... no, there are not a lot of aftermarket options for clutches and flywheels for the J-series. That aside, I see no reason why a J35A8 clutch or flywheel couldn't be used with a J37 engine and/or trans.
I plan on leaving this setup as is for now. The J37 clutch/flywheel is a good match for the J37 engine.
Originally Posted by flexer
So will a j35 clutch set-up, work with a j37 transmission? I have a j35a8 but a j37 manual transmission. There are NO UPGRADES for the J37 but many custom flywheels and clutches for the J35. Would I be able to use a J35 clutch set-up?
#24
Excellent, thanks. I currently have a J37 flywheel and clutch bolted to a J35a8 that "appears" to be working. I haven't fired up the car yet. Good to know that I don't have to go looking for j37 stuff but could look for j35 clutches as well.
#25
Brock
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by flexer
Excellent, thanks. I currently have a J37 flywheel and clutch bolted to a J35a8 that "appears" to be working. I haven't fired up the car yet. Good to know that I don't have to go looking for j37 stuff but could look for j35 clutches as well.
#26
All motor
UGHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! Cannot wait to see this thing in action. If the TSX had a J from the factory with a 6spd, I would probably have one right now. I love the TSX.
#28
Brock
Thread Starter
Drove the car a bit today and discovered that it didn't want to go in gear at first (from sitting in neutral). The clutch wasn't disengaging completely. I'm certain that the slave cylinder stroke isn't enough to compensate for the difference in pressure plate height between the J37 and J35 clutch/flywheel setups. I knew this and even bought a precision washer to add to the stud/ball pivot thing that the release fork sits on. I forgot to install it.
I can still fix the problem with a spacer between the end of the slave cylinder piston and the release fork but it will have to be custom machined.
Other than this, the clutch feels totally normal.
I can still fix the problem with a spacer between the end of the slave cylinder piston and the release fork but it will have to be custom machined.
Other than this, the clutch feels totally normal.
#29
Brock
Thread Starter
Clutch disengagement issue started to go away around 20 miles. Now with over 70 miles on the new clutch it seems to be completely gone.
Not sure exactly what happened but perhaps the slave cylinder piston needed time to move to a new static position.
Not sure exactly what happened but perhaps the slave cylinder piston needed time to move to a new static position.
#31
Brock
Thread Starter
Just thought I would show everyone why a J37 clutch/flywheel setup does NOT work with a Type-S trans.
The clutch worked quite nicely... after it wore grooves in the clutch case. This explains why the clutch didn't want to fully disengage at first.
This is very frustrating. My trans is currently apart. I'm replacing the clutch case as well as the FD gears.
The clutch worked quite nicely... after it wore grooves in the clutch case. This explains why the clutch didn't want to fully disengage at first.
This is very frustrating. My trans is currently apart. I'm replacing the clutch case as well as the FD gears.
#34
Brock
Thread Starter
Just wanted to point out that the Legend clutch disc will NOT work with the AASCO flywheel. See post #10 above. The AASCO flywheel is too shallow in the area where the disc hub is. I initially checked it without the bolts sitting on a bench. Once the flywheel is installed, the disc won't seat fully into the flywheel. It hits the bolts. Very frustrating. I ended up getting a Clutchmasters disc. This disc is thinner and fits nicely. I hate that there are so few options for the J-series but the Clutchmasters setup seems to be pretty decent.
#36
Brock
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by jahellster
Were you able to use j35 manual transmission on your j37?
Originally Posted by jahellster
Were you able to use j35 ECU?
Originally Posted by jahellster
Can you use j37 harness?
#38
Brock
Thread Starter
It's a complete TL Type-S trans. Thought that was obvious from the posts.
#40
Brock
Thread Starter
All the J37 blocks have the later bolt pattern, same as the J35A8 blocks.