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So I'm sure a lot of you have been wondering if XLR8 Kits will be a good alternative to the oem clutch unit and im happy to say, so far so good.
I been plagued with problems using the ClutchMasters (beefed up oem) FX250 kit, and staff, so I am happy to finally have it out of the car, and be switched over to promising clutch.
Now, my car only had 200 miles on the kit thus far so i will update as we go. initial impressions are all positive. The clutch feels like oem, its actually softer than the CM kit. Though i was a bit skeptical, the kit grabs fine, and after only 150 miles, im able to engage the clutch easily, and effectively as the friction surface develops / clutch gets broken in. The higher you rev, the more responsive the clutch feels. It also feels as if its balanced better than the OEM/CM kit.
The clutch is good quality. The disk is excedy and the pressure plate is a SACHs non self adjusting set up, which I was looking for. I am running the AASCO lightweight flywheel. The friction surface was replaced last time I switched the clutch (1000 miles ago) and you can see what the CM kit did to it.
Anyways here are a few pictures i took through out the install. sorry the quality isnt all that great.
Ill also be happy to answer any questions as they come.
I have some pretty bad pictures of the CM kit with 1000 miles on it... enough to discourage anyone from buying the kit, but im sure thats for another thread.... Here i just want to give a thumbs up to XLR8.
Nice, good to see more positive feedback from the XLR8 clutch packages. I am shocked that the FX250 uses a stock pressure plate, yuck. The pictures of the FX250 show a non SAC pressure plate, that's misleading.
Interested to see how the Kevlar one performs, I have the DD clutch and it's been great to me.
^^^ awesome link, that link helped me decide to go daily when the time comes to switch out my clutch.
for the guys that are replacing, how long did your original clutch last? and did it just start slipping super bad one day since it's self adjusting (in other words did you know it was going bad or just all at once)? i'm at 110k miles and haven't been too hard on mine
My clutch was slipping since day one. Previous owner was rough on it. Got it with 30k miles on it and now I am at 108k. I have been wanting to upgrade for the longest since my previous car had a ACT stage 2 (love it), but at the time we only had CM (which had mix reviews) and CT engineering (which was already discontinued when I had purchased the car). I was waiting to hear more reviews on XLR8 clutch when it first came out; so far everyone has been satisfied.
So what clutch Do you recommend that will hold 383whp and 313 wtq. That is also not Kevlar based and easy to drive on like stock and is very forgiving?
South Bend Clutch HCK1007 HD O Stage 2 Daily Driver Clutch Kit???
I have the OEM clutch by LUK. Works fine for me. I think as long as you don't drive like a lunatic, the OEM clutch would be just fine, but you definitely want to replace the flywheel regardless. Rockauto seems to have the best prices on both.
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^^^ awesome link, that link helped me decide to go daily when the time comes to switch out my clutch.
for the guys that are replacing, how long did your original clutch last? and did it just start slipping super bad one day since it's self adjusting (in other words did you know it was going bad or just all at once)? i'm at 110k miles and haven't been too hard on mine
Nice! happy it helped someone else.
My clutch started slipping at high rpm when driven hard (quick shifts) but around town or just regular driving it was fine. Clutch had 147K before I replaced it, I purchased my car at 89K.
Originally Posted by thisaznboi88
So what clutch Do you recommend that will hold 383whp and 313 wtq. That is also not Kevlar based and easy to drive on like stock and is very forgiving?
South Bend Clutch HCK1007 HD O Stage 2 Daily Driver Clutch Kit???
That's a tough call man, you are right between clutches (DD ~340 TQ and STREET/STRIP ~425 TQ) remember your TQ # you are seeing is at the wheels/hubs not at the flywheel, also are you going to turn up the boost? I wouldn't rule out a Kevlar one as long as you didn't abuse it, I think it would be a good street setup for a turbo car. Need to see how the OP likes it.
@6spd-GERCO good point. Are the clutch rated TQ at the crank or at the wheel/hub? I didn't think of that when I was looking at clutches, it might put me above the specs stage 2 daily driver... I am not going to turn up the boost. I am very happy with how the car is right now. If I wanted to turn up the boost I would need larger injectors since it was already seeing 84% in 92*F and 85% humidity. Injectors duty cycle going to hit 90+ in the winter. I would also need to do a return system. Currently running stock pump and returnless.
From what I heard kevlar doesn't last very long if you do not break it in correctly. Is that true? please school me
Waiting to hear another good review from this brand from OP!!! keep us posted!!!
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 08-14-2016 at 09:56 PM.
@6spd-GERCO good point. Are the clutch rated TQ at the crank or at the wheel/hub? I didn't think of that when I was looking at clutches, it might put me above the specs stage 2 daily driver... I am not going to turn up the boost. I am very happy with how the car is right now. If I wanted to turn up the boost I would need larger injectors since it was already seeing 84% in 92*F and 85% humidity. Injectors duty cycle going to hit 90+ in the winter. I would also need to do a return system. Currently running stock pump and returnless.
From what I heard kevlar doesn't last very long if you do not break it in correctly. Is that true? please school me
Waiting to hear another good review from this brand from OP!!! keep us posted!!!
I am no expert but, I am fairly certain the torque rating is at the flywheel/crank. It has one job, to couple the engine to the transmission, I like to think of it as a mechanical fuse. Just like an electrical fuse is able to handle X amount of current before it breaks, the same holds true for a clutch. I would be curious to see if there's a safety factor included in the TQ ratings provided by XLR8.
It's really impossible to accurately get your crank HP number from WHP numbers, there are to many variables.I would estimate you to be at the 350 to 360 range for TQ @ crank, allowing for some head room with that range. I don't know much about Kevlar clutches, I am just basing the selection of the clutch off of the specs XLR8 provided. If you can drive stick well, I won't be worried about a Kevlar disc. I am curious to see how long your current clutch lasts at your power level. It's easier to change injectors and upgrade fuel system vs changing or replacing a clutch
You won't have to worry to much about burning up the clutch in winter no grip.
engagement is easy off the line, and shifting feels like a dream.
not much more to say. I am content having my car back and being able to rev it all the way up without worrying about how my clutch pedal is gonna feel and react
From what I heard kevlar doesn't last very long if you do not break it in correctly. Is that true? please school me
Waiting to hear another good review from this brand from OP!!! keep us posted!!!
I dont see why that would be the case. if you were to feel the material it almost feels like a felt. The break in should develop a friction surface no different than if you were to use organic material.
definitely following this thread, hopefully Evilvirus can add his thoughts when he gets his.
you might have said it to me before, but made made you choose street/strip over daily?
I wasn't sure if I should just start and need thread, but I got my TL back last Wed. XLR8 daily clutch, check valve delete, and GM synchromesh friction modifier fluid. I am very impress with the new set up. Its night and day difference. The engagement points are dead on and smooth shifts. I cant wait until I have broken in the clutch and really see how it handles.
Thanks for adding your review here! keep us updated with your thoughts, i have the exact same setup as you but with the oem clutch. i will most likely go the same route when my time comes (only at 110k miles now)...glad to hear the shift points/engagement points are much better...i absolutely hate the way the oem clutch works
Lemmme test drive that shit!!!! i promise I wont break it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just don't hit no curbs, trees, or forget your numbers
Originally Posted by sockr1
Thanks for adding your review here! keep us updated with your thoughts, i have the exact same setup as you but with the oem clutch. i will most likely go the same route when my time comes (only at 110k miles now)...glad to hear the shift points/engagement points are much better...i absolutely hate the way the oem clutch works
Yeah the oem clutch is ok but I will not go back to it. This clutch should last the lifetime of the car. I don't plan on selling her. Just need to do some more maintenance and she will be at 100% again.
I did give a review, clutch was nice up till the day i sold it... bigger and better things
compared to a stock clutch this grabbed a little harder. Once you learn to drive the car, chatter isn't an issue and even at very slow engagements you would get very very little if any. honestly its how i like my clutch to be set up.
08-10-2016, 04:33 PM
.. OP's selling car