UR Pulley
04-17-2009, 10:23 PM
#82
I think I'm going to pull the trigger on this mod. After reading this thread, it seems pretty safe. I've driven Buda's TL with the UR Pulley in it, and it feels significantly better. I just got illuminated door sills installed this week, but I'll be calling Excelerate soon.
By the way JD TL-S, love the new Avatar !!!
By the way JD TL-S, love the new Avatar !!!
04-17-2009, 11:15 PM
#83
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Yes!! Buda's is a Base TL...it was VERY cool to drive. I will let you know about it Gene. It may be a little bit-I just got illuminated door sills. Gotta let that soak in for a little bit.
2009 Kansas City All Acura Meet-May 17th
https://acurazine.com/forums/midwest-312/kansas-city-2009-spring-all-acura-meet-may-17th-12pm-%40-jay-wolfe-acura-714994/
2009 Kansas City All Acura Meet-May 17th
https://acurazine.com/forums/midwest-312/kansas-city-2009-spring-all-acura-meet-may-17th-12pm-%40-jay-wolfe-acura-714994/
04-19-2009, 08:46 AM
#84
Yes!! Buda's is a Base TL...it was VERY cool to drive. I will let you know about it Gene. It may be a little bit-I just got illuminated door sills. Gotta let that soak in for a little bit.
04-19-2009, 10:49 AM
#85
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Yes!! I paid $140 to a fellow Acurazine member for his set (that were still in the box). I was just lucky to find them on the Black Market because I don't think they make them anymore. Buda installed them for me.
04-19-2009, 09:45 PM
#86
Okay im really ready to pull the trigger on this mod but a few quick questions:
1. I heard of "Hard shiftings" after install Any auto guys experience this?
2. What is the part # for this tool to use to help with the removal?
3. Do i absolutely need to have a different belt with the install, if so whats the part # on that?
4. Any squeeling, besides that one guy on this thread?
1. I heard of "Hard shiftings" after install Any auto guys experience this?
2. What is the part # for this tool to use to help with the removal?
3. Do i absolutely need to have a different belt with the install, if so whats the part # on that?
4. Any squeeling, besides that one guy on this thread?
04-20-2009, 12:10 PM
#87
Okay im really ready to pull the trigger on this mod but a few quick questions:
1. I heard of "Hard shiftings" after install Any auto guys experience this?
2. What is the part # for this tool to use to help with the removal?
3. Do i absolutely need to have a different belt with the install, if so whats the part # on that?
4. Any squeeling, besides that one guy on this thread?
1. I heard of "Hard shiftings" after install Any auto guys experience this?
2. What is the part # for this tool to use to help with the removal?
3. Do i absolutely need to have a different belt with the install, if so whats the part # on that?
4. Any squeeling, besides that one guy on this thread?
04-20-2009, 12:26 PM
#88
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^
I have the underdrive pulley and havent really noticed much of a drop off in the battery or components. Only noticable thing to me was leaving the flashers on kills battery quicker than stock pulley did, but you still have a while before that happens. Just my
... But replacing that cast iron weight of a stock pulley is a good mod no matter what size aftermarket you go with 
I have the underdrive pulley and havent really noticed much of a drop off in the battery or components. Only noticable thing to me was leaving the flashers on kills battery quicker than stock pulley did, but you still have a while before that happens. Just my
... But replacing that cast iron weight of a stock pulley is a good mod no matter what size aftermarket you go with
04-21-2009, 08:52 AM
#90
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I would be sticking with the stock size pulley... Has anyone experienced
1. I heard of "Hard shiftings" after install Any auto guys experience this?
4. Any squeeling, besides that one guy on this thread?
1. I heard of "Hard shiftings" after install Any auto guys experience this?
4. Any squeeling, besides that one guy on this thread?
I have the stock size unorthodox pulley for almost a year now on my auto Type S, No squeeling, no hard shifting. No new belt needed unless you do the underdrive pulley which has a different diameter. Prolly the best upgrade you can do for the money! Definitely pulls harder, and I got better gas milelage. Im getting around 32-33 on the Highway and around 21 in town, where as before I was getting around 28-29 Highway and 17 in town.
04-21-2009, 12:16 PM
#91
I have the stock size unorthodox pulley for almost a year now on my auto Type S, No squeeling, no hard shifting. No new belt needed unless you do the underdrive pulley which has a different diameter. Prolly the best upgrade you can do for the money! Definitely pulls harder, and I got better gas milelage. Im getting around 32-33 on the Highway and around 21 in town, where as before I was getting around 28-29 Highway and 17 in town.
04-24-2009, 04:56 PM
#93
Racer
04-24-2009, 07:21 PM
#94
I have the stock size unorthodox pulley for almost a year now on my auto Type S, No squeeling, no hard shifting. No new belt needed unless you do the underdrive pulley which has a different diameter. Prolly the best upgrade you can do for the money! Definitely pulls harder, and I got better gas milelage. Im getting around 32-33 on the Highway and around 21 in town, where as before I was getting around 28-29 Highway and 17 in town.
04-26-2009, 12:57 AM
#95
Burning Brakes
You guys are walking on egg shells buying into UR infamous BS regarding pulleys. Yes, these UDPs are perfectly balanced and the motor is internally balanced BUT when you apply explosions to those pistons which then twist the crank, you start to get certain order vibrations through the crank. SO the whole notion constantly perpetuated by UR is a total farce regarding their "internally balanced" statements. The crank vibration experienced under various loads are quelled on one end of the crank by the torque converter/flywheel clutch assembly and on the other end by the OEM pulley. The OEM pulley includes a sandwiched elastomer ring which quells vibrations and serves the function as a damper just like the TC/flywheel. Remove the OEM pulley/damper and your crank will now by exposed to various order vibrations which could completely wreck your motor. Honda spent millions R&Ding these motors and they spend millions trying to find every little bit of power in the motor. Do you think they'd be so foolish to pass on the UDP/lightweight pulley if it were so easy to find 5-8whp? Use some sense guys. There is a lot of fancy engineering that goes into those mundane crank pulleys/dampers.
Also, UR claims of lighting the crank pulley results in 5-8whp is downright silly. Removing rotational weight is a good thing and good results can be obtained by adding lighter wheels, tires, axles, and driveshafts. But to think that a lightened 6" pulley directly mounted to the crank is going to gain any useful power is a farce. For one, you're only talking about a few pounds and secondly it's only about 6" in diameter. It's rotational mass and moment of inertia is low (ie it's easy for the motor to spin). It's far harder for the motor to spin an 26" tire/wheel combo that weighs 50lbs and the motor has to spin driveshafts and a transmission to do it. Do the math and you'll see that the gains are minimal with these lightened pulleys. In each successive gear, the effect is reduced.
Then there's the removed moment of inertia at the motor. For 6MT guys, you'll notice that the car is harder to launch because the motor is slightly more prone to bogging because it has less moment of inertia. The same effect occurs with lightened flywheels and is why they're horrible for drag racing.
Take it from someone that had formerly bought into UR's BS and actually put it to the test. I had a 96 Maxima 5MT with numerous bolt-ons. I bought a UR UDP. It weighed about 5.5lbs less than the OEM pulley. UR said it would gain the VQ30 ~8whp. I noticed a quicker revving motor and that the car was harder to drive smoothly and launch. Over the course of 40 1/4 passes (8 different visits), the car was no quicker (ET) or faster (MPH). If anything, the car was actually a tick slower because it was a little harder to launch. On the dyno, the car didn't gain anything. After 1.5 years use, I took it off. The car was easier to drive, and interestingly, I posted my best ever ET/MPH the week after I took it off. Go figure.
Buyer beware. I strongly recommend you do a lot of research regarding these machined lightened pullies. There's a damn good reason why you don't see these pulleys on race cars.
Also, UR claims of lighting the crank pulley results in 5-8whp is downright silly. Removing rotational weight is a good thing and good results can be obtained by adding lighter wheels, tires, axles, and driveshafts. But to think that a lightened 6" pulley directly mounted to the crank is going to gain any useful power is a farce. For one, you're only talking about a few pounds and secondly it's only about 6" in diameter. It's rotational mass and moment of inertia is low (ie it's easy for the motor to spin). It's far harder for the motor to spin an 26" tire/wheel combo that weighs 50lbs and the motor has to spin driveshafts and a transmission to do it. Do the math and you'll see that the gains are minimal with these lightened pulleys. In each successive gear, the effect is reduced.
Then there's the removed moment of inertia at the motor. For 6MT guys, you'll notice that the car is harder to launch because the motor is slightly more prone to bogging because it has less moment of inertia. The same effect occurs with lightened flywheels and is why they're horrible for drag racing.
Take it from someone that had formerly bought into UR's BS and actually put it to the test. I had a 96 Maxima 5MT with numerous bolt-ons. I bought a UR UDP. It weighed about 5.5lbs less than the OEM pulley. UR said it would gain the VQ30 ~8whp. I noticed a quicker revving motor and that the car was harder to drive smoothly and launch. Over the course of 40 1/4 passes (8 different visits), the car was no quicker (ET) or faster (MPH). If anything, the car was actually a tick slower because it was a little harder to launch. On the dyno, the car didn't gain anything. After 1.5 years use, I took it off. The car was easier to drive, and interestingly, I posted my best ever ET/MPH the week after I took it off. Go figure.
Buyer beware. I strongly recommend you do a lot of research regarding these machined lightened pullies. There's a damn good reason why you don't see these pulleys on race cars.
04-26-2009, 01:34 AM
#96
You guys are walking on egg shells buying into UR infamous BS regarding pulleys. Yes, these UDPs are perfectly balanced and the motor is internally balanced BUT when you apply explosions to those pistons which then twist the crank, you start to get certain order vibrations through the crank. SO the whole notion constantly perpetuated by UR is a total farce regarding their "internally balanced" statements. The crank vibration experienced under various loads are quelled on one end of the crank by the torque converter/flywheel clutch assembly and on the other end by the OEM pulley. The OEM pulley includes a sandwiched elastomer ring which quells vibrations and serves the function as a damper just like the TC/flywheel. Remove the OEM pulley/damper and your crank will now by exposed to various order vibrations which could completely wreck your motor. Honda spent millions R&Ding these motors and they spend millions trying to find every little bit of power in the motor. Do you think they'd be so foolish to pass on the UDP/lightweight pulley if it were so easy to find 5-8whp? Use some sense guys. There is a lot of fancy engineering that goes into those mundane crank pulleys/dampers.
Also, UR claims of lighting the crank pulley results in 5-8whp is downright silly. Removing rotational weight is a good thing and good results can be obtained by adding lighter wheels, tires, axles, and driveshafts. But to think that a lightened 6" pulley directly mounted to the crank is going to gain any useful power is a farce. For one, you're only talking about a few pounds and secondly it's only about 6" in diameter. It's rotational mass and moment of inertia is low (ie it's easy for the motor to spin). It's far harder for the motor to spin an 26" tire/wheel combo that weighs 50lbs and the motor has to spin driveshafts and a transmission to do it. Do the math and you'll see that the gains are minimal with these lightened pulleys. In each successive gear, the effect is reduced.
Then there's the removed moment of inertia at the motor. For 6MT guys, you'll notice that the car is harder to launch because the motor is slightly more prone to bogging because it has less moment of inertia. The same effect occurs with lightened flywheels and is why they're horrible for drag racing.
Take it from someone that had formerly bought into UR's BS and actually put it to the test. I had a 96 Maxima 5MT with numerous bolt-ons. I bought a UR UDP. It weighed about 5.5lbs less than the OEM pulley. UR said it would gain the VQ30 ~8whp. I noticed a quicker revving motor and that the car was harder to drive smoothly and launch. Over the course of 40 1/4 passes (8 different visits), the car was no quicker (ET) or faster (MPH). If anything, the car was actually a tick slower because it was a little harder to launch. On the dyno, the car didn't gain anything. After 1.5 years use, I took it off. The car was easier to drive, and interestingly, I posted my best ever ET/MPH the week after I took it off. Go figure.
Buyer beware. I strongly recommend you do a lot of research regarding these machined lightened pullies. There's a damn good reason why you don't see these pulleys on race cars.
Also, UR claims of lighting the crank pulley results in 5-8whp is downright silly. Removing rotational weight is a good thing and good results can be obtained by adding lighter wheels, tires, axles, and driveshafts. But to think that a lightened 6" pulley directly mounted to the crank is going to gain any useful power is a farce. For one, you're only talking about a few pounds and secondly it's only about 6" in diameter. It's rotational mass and moment of inertia is low (ie it's easy for the motor to spin). It's far harder for the motor to spin an 26" tire/wheel combo that weighs 50lbs and the motor has to spin driveshafts and a transmission to do it. Do the math and you'll see that the gains are minimal with these lightened pulleys. In each successive gear, the effect is reduced.
Then there's the removed moment of inertia at the motor. For 6MT guys, you'll notice that the car is harder to launch because the motor is slightly more prone to bogging because it has less moment of inertia. The same effect occurs with lightened flywheels and is why they're horrible for drag racing.
Take it from someone that had formerly bought into UR's BS and actually put it to the test. I had a 96 Maxima 5MT with numerous bolt-ons. I bought a UR UDP. It weighed about 5.5lbs less than the OEM pulley. UR said it would gain the VQ30 ~8whp. I noticed a quicker revving motor and that the car was harder to drive smoothly and launch. Over the course of 40 1/4 passes (8 different visits), the car was no quicker (ET) or faster (MPH). If anything, the car was actually a tick slower because it was a little harder to launch. On the dyno, the car didn't gain anything. After 1.5 years use, I took it off. The car was easier to drive, and interestingly, I posted my best ever ET/MPH the week after I took it off. Go figure.
Buyer beware. I strongly recommend you do a lot of research regarding these machined lightened pullies. There's a damn good reason why you don't see these pulleys on race cars.
Which ignites another question about other mods....
04-26-2009, 10:16 AM
#97
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You guys are walking on egg shells buying into UR infamous BS regarding pulleys. Yes, these UDPs are perfectly balanced and the motor is internally balanced BUT when you apply explosions to those pistons which then twist the crank, you start to get certain order vibrations through the crank. SO the whole notion constantly perpetuated by UR is a total farce regarding their "internally balanced" statements. The crank vibration experienced under various loads are quelled on one end of the crank by the torque converter/flywheel clutch assembly and on the other end by the OEM pulley. The OEM pulley includes a sandwiched elastomer ring which quells vibrations and serves the function as a damper just like the TC/flywheel. Remove the OEM pulley/damper and your crank will now by exposed to various order vibrations which could completely wreck your motor. Honda spent millions R&Ding these motors and they spend millions trying to find every little bit of power in the motor. Do you think they'd be so foolish to pass on the UDP/lightweight pulley if it were so easy to find 5-8whp? Use some sense guys. There is a lot of fancy engineering that goes into those mundane crank pulleys/dampers.
Also, UR claims of lighting the crank pulley results in 5-8whp is downright silly. Removing rotational weight is a good thing and good results can be obtained by adding lighter wheels, tires, axles, and driveshafts. But to think that a lightened 6" pulley directly mounted to the crank is going to gain any useful power is a farce. For one, you're only talking about a few pounds and secondly it's only about 6" in diameter. It's rotational mass and moment of inertia is low (ie it's easy for the motor to spin). It's far harder for the motor to spin an 26" tire/wheel combo that weighs 50lbs and the motor has to spin driveshafts and a transmission to do it. Do the math and you'll see that the gains are minimal with these lightened pulleys. In each successive gear, the effect is reduced.
Then there's the removed moment of inertia at the motor. For 6MT guys, you'll notice that the car is harder to launch because the motor is slightly more prone to bogging because it has less moment of inertia. The same effect occurs with lightened flywheels and is why they're horrible for drag racing.
Take it from someone that had formerly bought into UR's BS and actually put it to the test. I had a 96 Maxima 5MT with numerous bolt-ons. I bought a UR UDP. It weighed about 5.5lbs less than the OEM pulley. UR said it would gain the VQ30 ~8whp. I noticed a quicker revving motor and that the car was harder to drive smoothly and launch. Over the course of 40 1/4 passes (8 different visits), the car was no quicker (ET) or faster (MPH). If anything, the car was actually a tick slower because it was a little harder to launch. On the dyno, the car didn't gain anything. After 1.5 years use, I took it off. The car was easier to drive, and interestingly, I posted my best ever ET/MPH the week after I took it off. Go figure.
Buyer beware. I strongly recommend you do a lot of research regarding these machined lightened pullies. There's a damn good reason why you don't see these pulleys on race cars.
Also, UR claims of lighting the crank pulley results in 5-8whp is downright silly. Removing rotational weight is a good thing and good results can be obtained by adding lighter wheels, tires, axles, and driveshafts. But to think that a lightened 6" pulley directly mounted to the crank is going to gain any useful power is a farce. For one, you're only talking about a few pounds and secondly it's only about 6" in diameter. It's rotational mass and moment of inertia is low (ie it's easy for the motor to spin). It's far harder for the motor to spin an 26" tire/wheel combo that weighs 50lbs and the motor has to spin driveshafts and a transmission to do it. Do the math and you'll see that the gains are minimal with these lightened pulleys. In each successive gear, the effect is reduced.
Then there's the removed moment of inertia at the motor. For 6MT guys, you'll notice that the car is harder to launch because the motor is slightly more prone to bogging because it has less moment of inertia. The same effect occurs with lightened flywheels and is why they're horrible for drag racing.
Take it from someone that had formerly bought into UR's BS and actually put it to the test. I had a 96 Maxima 5MT with numerous bolt-ons. I bought a UR UDP. It weighed about 5.5lbs less than the OEM pulley. UR said it would gain the VQ30 ~8whp. I noticed a quicker revving motor and that the car was harder to drive smoothly and launch. Over the course of 40 1/4 passes (8 different visits), the car was no quicker (ET) or faster (MPH). If anything, the car was actually a tick slower because it was a little harder to launch. On the dyno, the car didn't gain anything. After 1.5 years use, I took it off. The car was easier to drive, and interestingly, I posted my best ever ET/MPH the week after I took it off. Go figure.
Buyer beware. I strongly recommend you do a lot of research regarding these machined lightened pullies. There's a damn good reason why you don't see these pulleys on race cars.
04-28-2009, 11:52 PM
#98
.... .... .... ... ....
great feed back..
i have a UR underdrive pulley on my RL...
one problem...I am trying to mix performance with some nice cosmetics.
my wheels weight 38lbs per rim...not including tires.
should i be concerned?
i have a UR underdrive pulley on my RL...
one problem...I am trying to mix performance with some nice cosmetics.
my wheels weight 38lbs per rim...not including tires.
should i be concerned?
04-29-2009, 09:55 AM
#99
Burning Brakes
Years ago I did a test at my 1/4 mile track with my 96 Maxima. I brought my OEM 42lb 15" rims and my aftermarket 48lb 17s. I made 5 passes with each set up. To my surprise, the 17" combo only slowed me down about .15 seconds and 1.5mph in the 1/4 mile. So basically the gain in 40lbs of rotational weight, more weight further from the hub at each corner, and sticky rubber equated to around a 10whp drop in performance. So....how in the world will a 6" diameter 6lb lighter pulley mounted directly to the motor add 8-10whp? It just doesn't make sense. 26" diameter wheels weighing 40lbs+ are far harder to spin than a 6" pulley.
04-29-2009, 11:41 AM
#100
Dear God what size rims do you have on your RL? Chrome 20s? I thought most RLs come with 17s which I would assume weigh in the neighbor of 25-28lbs. Assume 26lbs for a typical high 17" performance tire and the combo should come in around 50lbs or so. There are lots of relatively cheap (~$200) lighter weight 17s and 18s on the market which would allow you shave about 5 to 8lbs for each corner. My ASA AR1 18X8s on my G35 weigh 22lbs each which is around 4lbs lighter than my OEM 17X7 combo. My 235/45R18s are lighter than the narrow 215/55R17s too, but the reduced inertial weight is negated by the fact that the 18s have more weight further from the hub (ie harder to spin the wheel) and the 18" tires are wider and much more sticky which increase drag.
Years ago I did a test at my 1/4 mile track with my 96 Maxima. I brought my OEM 42lb 15" rims and my aftermarket 48lb 17s. I made 5 passes with each set up. To my surprise, the 17" combo only slowed me down about .15 seconds and 1.5mph in the 1/4 mile. So basically the gain in 40lbs of rotational weight, more weight further from the hub at each corner, and sticky rubber equated to around a 10whp drop in performance. So....how in the world will a 6" diameter 6lb lighter pulley mounted directly to the motor add 8-10whp? It just doesn't make sense. 26" diameter wheels weighing 40lbs+ are far harder to spin than a 6" pulley.
Years ago I did a test at my 1/4 mile track with my 96 Maxima. I brought my OEM 42lb 15" rims and my aftermarket 48lb 17s. I made 5 passes with each set up. To my surprise, the 17" combo only slowed me down about .15 seconds and 1.5mph in the 1/4 mile. So basically the gain in 40lbs of rotational weight, more weight further from the hub at each corner, and sticky rubber equated to around a 10whp drop in performance. So....how in the world will a 6" diameter 6lb lighter pulley mounted directly to the motor add 8-10whp? It just doesn't make sense. 26" diameter wheels weighing 40lbs+ are far harder to spin than a 6" pulley.
I fully agree with you, I remember Physics but in school, and really I do not believe that by shaving 6 ~ 7 lbs on the pulley would translate 8 ~ 10 WHP.
But, after doing some research, I do notice that what you're saying about shaving the whole wheels set weight makes more sense.
That's the reason why Supercars use special compounds on the wheels set, especially for the brake rotors...
I've notice Porsche and among others have a lot of power, so they need a bigger brakes to stop, by having bigger brakes that translate more weight, in order to reduce weight, they use Ceramic Composite Brakes, which reduce around 50% weight compared to iron cast rotors.
So, lighter rim, lighter rotors, sure it should improve MPG...
04-29-2009, 11:45 AM
#101
You guys are walking on egg shells buying into UR infamous BS regarding pulleys. Yes, these UDPs are perfectly balanced and the motor is internally balanced BUT when you apply explosions to those pistons which then twist the crank, you start to get certain order vibrations through the crank. SO the whole notion constantly perpetuated by UR is a total farce regarding their "internally balanced" statements. The crank vibration experienced under various loads are quelled on one end of the crank by the torque converter/flywheel clutch assembly and on the other end by the OEM pulley. The OEM pulley includes a sandwiched elastomer ring which quells vibrations and serves the function as a damper just like the TC/flywheel. Remove the OEM pulley/damper and your crank will now by exposed to various order vibrations which could completely wreck your motor. Honda spent millions R&Ding these motors and they spend millions trying to find every little bit of power in the motor. Do you think they'd be so foolish to pass on the UDP/lightweight pulley if it were so easy to find 5-8whp? Use some sense guys. There is a lot of fancy engineering that goes into those mundane crank pulleys/dampers.
Also, UR claims of lighting the crank pulley results in 5-8whp is downright silly. Removing rotational weight is a good thing and good results can be obtained by adding lighter wheels, tires, axles, and driveshafts. But to think that a lightened 6" pulley directly mounted to the crank is going to gain any useful power is a farce. For one, you're only talking about a few pounds and secondly it's only about 6" in diameter. It's rotational mass and moment of inertia is low (ie it's easy for the motor to spin). It's far harder for the motor to spin an 26" tire/wheel combo that weighs 50lbs and the motor has to spin driveshafts and a transmission to do it. Do the math and you'll see that the gains are minimal with these lightened pulleys. In each successive gear, the effect is reduced.
Then there's the removed moment of inertia at the motor. For 6MT guys, you'll notice that the car is harder to launch because the motor is slightly more prone to bogging because it has less moment of inertia. The same effect occurs with lightened flywheels and is why they're horrible for drag racing.
Take it from someone that had formerly bought into UR's BS and actually put it to the test. I had a 96 Maxima 5MT with numerous bolt-ons. I bought a UR UDP. It weighed about 5.5lbs less than the OEM pulley. UR said it would gain the VQ30 ~8whp. I noticed a quicker revving motor and that the car was harder to drive smoothly and launch. Over the course of 40 1/4 passes (8 different visits), the car was no quicker (ET) or faster (MPH). If anything, the car was actually a tick slower because it was a little harder to launch. On the dyno, the car didn't gain anything. After 1.5 years use, I took it off. The car was easier to drive, and interestingly, I posted my best ever ET/MPH the week after I took it off. Go figure.
Buyer beware. I strongly recommend you do a lot of research regarding these machined lightened pullies. There's a damn good reason why you don't see these pulleys on race cars.
Also, UR claims of lighting the crank pulley results in 5-8whp is downright silly. Removing rotational weight is a good thing and good results can be obtained by adding lighter wheels, tires, axles, and driveshafts. But to think that a lightened 6" pulley directly mounted to the crank is going to gain any useful power is a farce. For one, you're only talking about a few pounds and secondly it's only about 6" in diameter. It's rotational mass and moment of inertia is low (ie it's easy for the motor to spin). It's far harder for the motor to spin an 26" tire/wheel combo that weighs 50lbs and the motor has to spin driveshafts and a transmission to do it. Do the math and you'll see that the gains are minimal with these lightened pulleys. In each successive gear, the effect is reduced.
Then there's the removed moment of inertia at the motor. For 6MT guys, you'll notice that the car is harder to launch because the motor is slightly more prone to bogging because it has less moment of inertia. The same effect occurs with lightened flywheels and is why they're horrible for drag racing.
Take it from someone that had formerly bought into UR's BS and actually put it to the test. I had a 96 Maxima 5MT with numerous bolt-ons. I bought a UR UDP. It weighed about 5.5lbs less than the OEM pulley. UR said it would gain the VQ30 ~8whp. I noticed a quicker revving motor and that the car was harder to drive smoothly and launch. Over the course of 40 1/4 passes (8 different visits), the car was no quicker (ET) or faster (MPH). If anything, the car was actually a tick slower because it was a little harder to launch. On the dyno, the car didn't gain anything. After 1.5 years use, I took it off. The car was easier to drive, and interestingly, I posted my best ever ET/MPH the week after I took it off. Go figure.
Buyer beware. I strongly recommend you do a lot of research regarding these machined lightened pullies. There's a damn good reason why you don't see these pulleys on race cars.
04-29-2009, 11:49 AM
#102
Hey Dave,
I fully agree with you, I remember Physics but in school, and really I do not believe that by shaving 6 ~ 7 lbs on the pulley would translate 8 ~ 10 WHP.
But, after doing some research, I do notice that what you're saying about shaving the whole wheels set weight makes more sense.
That's the reason why Supercars use special compounds on the wheels set, especially for the brake rotors...
I've notice Porsche and among others have a lot of power, so they need a bigger brakes to stop, by having bigger brakes that translate more weight, in order to reduce weight, they use Ceramic Composite Brakes, which reduce around 50% weight compared to iron cast rotors.
So, lighter rim, lighter rotors, sure it should improve MPG...
I fully agree with you, I remember Physics but in school, and really I do not believe that by shaving 6 ~ 7 lbs on the pulley would translate 8 ~ 10 WHP.
But, after doing some research, I do notice that what you're saying about shaving the whole wheels set weight makes more sense.
That's the reason why Supercars use special compounds on the wheels set, especially for the brake rotors...
I've notice Porsche and among others have a lot of power, so they need a bigger brakes to stop, by having bigger brakes that translate more weight, in order to reduce weight, they use Ceramic Composite Brakes, which reduce around 50% weight compared to iron cast rotors.
So, lighter rim, lighter rotors, sure it should improve MPG...
04-29-2009, 11:54 AM
#103
2008 335i e92 6MT
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You guys are walking on egg shells buying into UR infamous BS regarding pulleys. Yes, these UDPs are perfectly balanced and the motor is internally balanced BUT when you apply explosions to those pistons which then twist the crank, you start to get certain order vibrations through the crank. SO the whole notion constantly perpetuated by UR is a total farce regarding their "internally balanced" statements. The crank vibration experienced under various loads are quelled on one end of the crank by the torque converter/flywheel clutch assembly and on the other end by the OEM pulley. The OEM pulley includes a sandwiched elastomer ring which quells vibrations and serves the function as a damper just like the TC/flywheel. Remove the OEM pulley/damper and your crank will now by exposed to various order vibrations which could completely wreck your motor. Honda spent millions R&Ding these motors and they spend millions trying to find every little bit of power in the motor. Do you think they'd be so foolish to pass on the UDP/lightweight pulley if it were so easy to find 5-8whp? Use some sense guys. There is a lot of fancy engineering that goes into those mundane crank pulleys/dampers.
Also, UR claims of lighting the crank pulley results in 5-8whp is downright silly. Removing rotational weight is a good thing and good results can be obtained by adding lighter wheels, tires, axles, and driveshafts. But to think that a lightened 6" pulley directly mounted to the crank is going to gain any useful power is a farce. For one, you're only talking about a few pounds and secondly it's only about 6" in diameter. It's rotational mass and moment of inertia is low (ie it's easy for the motor to spin). It's far harder for the motor to spin an 26" tire/wheel combo that weighs 50lbs and the motor has to spin driveshafts and a transmission to do it. Do the math and you'll see that the gains are minimal with these lightened pulleys. In each successive gear, the effect is reduced.
Then there's the removed moment of inertia at the motor. For 6MT guys, you'll notice that the car is harder to launch because the motor is slightly more prone to bogging because it has less moment of inertia. The same effect occurs with lightened flywheels and is why they're horrible for drag racing.
Take it from someone that had formerly bought into UR's BS and actually put it to the test. I had a 96 Maxima 5MT with numerous bolt-ons. I bought a UR UDP. It weighed about 5.5lbs less than the OEM pulley. UR said it would gain the VQ30 ~8whp. I noticed a quicker revving motor and that the car was harder to drive smoothly and launch. Over the course of 40 1/4 passes (8 different visits), the car was no quicker (ET) or faster (MPH). If anything, the car was actually a tick slower because it was a little harder to launch. On the dyno, the car didn't gain anything. After 1.5 years use, I took it off. The car was easier to drive, and interestingly, I posted my best ever ET/MPH the week after I took it off. Go figure.
Buyer beware. I strongly recommend you do a lot of research regarding these machined lightened pullies. There's a damn good reason why you don't see these pulleys on race cars.
Also, UR claims of lighting the crank pulley results in 5-8whp is downright silly. Removing rotational weight is a good thing and good results can be obtained by adding lighter wheels, tires, axles, and driveshafts. But to think that a lightened 6" pulley directly mounted to the crank is going to gain any useful power is a farce. For one, you're only talking about a few pounds and secondly it's only about 6" in diameter. It's rotational mass and moment of inertia is low (ie it's easy for the motor to spin). It's far harder for the motor to spin an 26" tire/wheel combo that weighs 50lbs and the motor has to spin driveshafts and a transmission to do it. Do the math and you'll see that the gains are minimal with these lightened pulleys. In each successive gear, the effect is reduced.
Then there's the removed moment of inertia at the motor. For 6MT guys, you'll notice that the car is harder to launch because the motor is slightly more prone to bogging because it has less moment of inertia. The same effect occurs with lightened flywheels and is why they're horrible for drag racing.
Take it from someone that had formerly bought into UR's BS and actually put it to the test. I had a 96 Maxima 5MT with numerous bolt-ons. I bought a UR UDP. It weighed about 5.5lbs less than the OEM pulley. UR said it would gain the VQ30 ~8whp. I noticed a quicker revving motor and that the car was harder to drive smoothly and launch. Over the course of 40 1/4 passes (8 different visits), the car was no quicker (ET) or faster (MPH). If anything, the car was actually a tick slower because it was a little harder to launch. On the dyno, the car didn't gain anything. After 1.5 years use, I took it off. The car was easier to drive, and interestingly, I posted my best ever ET/MPH the week after I took it off. Go figure.
Buyer beware. I strongly recommend you do a lot of research regarding these machined lightened pullies. There's a damn good reason why you don't see these pulleys on race cars.
and also, is the the UR Ultra Sc pulley the stock sized pulley?
Last edited by MobTownTL; 04-29-2009 at 11:57 AM.
04-29-2009, 12:21 PM
#104
Burning Brakes
Would you please stop spreading your rhetoric on these forums? If you knew anything about the J series motor, you would know putting a light weight pulley on it will do absolutely no harm. While your facts can apply to certain motors, it does not apply to this one. Take your Nissan/Infiniti knowledge back to their forums. Different motors.
04-29-2009, 12:22 PM
#105
Burning Brakes
[QUOTE=MobTownTL;10836108]good read, but i heard that the new Acura TL's have lighter pulleys now o_O. so maybe some r&d by honda actually led them to change out the pulleys in the new tl? [QUOTE]
The displacement change probably had something to do with it. Regardless, the TLS crank pulley still utilizes a crank damper.
The displacement change probably had something to do with it. Regardless, the TLS crank pulley still utilizes a crank damper.
04-29-2009, 12:29 PM
#106
Just because an intake provides gains for my J series motor, does not mean an intake of the same design will show gains on my friends Mustang GT and vica versa.
04-29-2009, 12:30 PM
#107
[QUOTE=Dave_B;10836256][QUOTE=MobTownTL;10836108]good read, but i heard that the new Acura TL's have lighter pulleys now o_O. so maybe some r&d by honda actually led them to change out the pulleys in the new tl?
The displacement change probably had something to do with it. Regardless, the TLS crank pulley still utilizes a crank damper.
What does displacement have to do with a lighter pulley????????
FYI - I was the one who purchased a 4G TL pulley and sent it off to be compared.
The displacement change probably had something to do with it. Regardless, the TLS crank pulley still utilizes a crank damper.
FYI - I was the one who purchased a 4G TL pulley and sent it off to be compared.
04-29-2009, 01:29 PM
#108
Burning Brakes
I'm not referring to pulley design between a Honda and Nissan motor. The motors themselves are designed entirely differently. You cannot compare pulley design across 2 entirely different motors. There are far too many differing factors.
Just because an intake provides gains for my J series motor, does not mean an intake of the same design will show gains on my friends Mustang GT and vica versa.
Just because an intake provides gains for my J series motor, does not mean an intake of the same design will show gains on my friends Mustang GT and vica versa.
Got any 3rd party dyno showing those intake gains on your J series or jsut what the vendor and/or what AEM tells you?
04-29-2009, 01:33 PM
#109
Burning Brakes
Heavier rotating assembly since the motor gained .3 liters of displacement maybe? Improve throttle response and rev-matching capability? Since you're the one that submitted a pulley, what's the weight difference? A pound or two? Regardless, it still has that elastomer ring.
04-29-2009, 01:57 PM
#111
And as for Dynos... I've been on these forums since 2004, and have seen graphs come through that show before/after and show the gains. Years go by and pictures get deleted. Since then I've seen the forum change and makes finding threads difficult. With that said, I don't have the time to search. Beyond this forum, are plenty of honda forums that will show you what you want.
Why would I just talk this out of no where? Why would I want people to hurt their motors? I have nothing to gain by this, I am not a vendor and I sell nothing. I've done my homework on Hondas and thier motors. You have done your homework on Nissan motors. I don't claim to know things on Nissans.
Why would I just talk this out of no where? Why would I want people to hurt their motors? I have nothing to gain by this, I am not a vendor and I sell nothing. I've done my homework on Hondas and thier motors. You have done your homework on Nissan motors. I don't claim to know things on Nissans.
04-29-2009, 11:01 PM
#112
2008 335i e92 6MT
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^^^ i do. VQ30DE/VQ35DE/VQ35HR/VQ37HR. pick your weapon of choice... j.k. LOL xP
friend is a G35 coupe owner and i use to have a maxima se puhaha
friend is a G35 coupe owner and i use to have a maxima se puhaha
05-02-2009, 01:20 PM
#114
Burning Brakes
05-05-2009, 11:28 AM
#116
Team Owner
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Guys, I have a question about these pulleys. I was at the dealership yesterday-talking about the pulleys. One mechanic said there is alittle noise/vibration from the lighter pulleys. My question is-how much of a noise is there? Can you hear it from inside the car? How noticable is it really?
2009 Kansas City All Acura Meet-May 17th
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=714994
2009 Kansas City All Acura Meet-May 17th
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=714994
05-05-2009, 12:25 PM
#118
Safety Car
no noise/vibration unless its installed by a 5 yr old. the pulleys are balanced for our motors. after the tech installed mine..... he said he was impressed because it didnt change anything except how fast it let the motor rev.
05-05-2009, 02:20 PM
#119
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Clean, Tripn'-thank you. After the debate on the other thread, I'm still on the fence about doing this mod. I really want to though.....
2009 Kansas City All Acura Meet-May 17th
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=714994
2009 Kansas City All Acura Meet-May 17th
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=714994
05-05-2009, 02:57 PM
#120
Safety Car
do it and if u dont like it.... put it back to original and blackmarket the piece....guaranteed someone would take it off u in 24hours. one of the easiest mods to install and enjoy.... the motor is just ready to give the tranny all its got. To be honest with u.... I didnt even want the piece but I said to myself...u know what if i dont get it now, ill never think of it again and prob wouldnt get it....whats the worst that can happen??? sell it for 20 less than i bought it for? and then allon came up to me and said dude u gonna get the pulley or what?!