I'm about to turbo my TL. Over the summer I rebuilt the engine because it was drinking oil like it was cool aid. My plan is to make around 700whp with everything built by myself. I'm using this process partly as meditation/outlet and partly because I just simply like learning new skills. I'm big on DIY so I decided instead of paying someone to build me a turbo setup, I bought all of the tools instead and do it all myself. I will keep the post updated as I go with pictures.

My engine is the J35A8 that came in the car, I cleaned the heads, cleaned the valves and installed new valve stem seals. For the block I have halferland pistons and 1999 honda odyssey J35A1 rods (these are the strongest oem J series rods you can use). I went with these rods because they can handle 700hp and that is my target HP. I am using a Spec stage 3+ clutch and Spec flywheel. I replaced the cmc with an EM2 exedy cmc and a new oem slave cylinder with the delay valve deleted. Innovative 75a motor mounts (all 5 of them) and put the battery in the trunk for space needed in the engine bay. I'm planning on having it completed by the summer by sometimes life happens but that's my goal.

I have most of the parts to start, I'm going to make an equal length manifold because they make the exhaust sound so much better. Here are a few pics,


This is the ac/dc yeswelder I bought, I never tig welded anything before but I'm always open to learning.

Spec flywheel

This was the process of rebuilding the engine, it has about 7,000 miles on it. It runs so smoothly compared to before it was rebuilt. Car has 232,000 miles currently.

I am going to install this radiator fan shroud once I modify the fan holes.

This is a pulsar 6466 turbo with a T51R mod. The turbine is .92a/r with 3" vband inlet and outlet.

I will be mounting the turbo to this maven mount.

NGR bov because I do like the old school bov sounds.

I cleaned the intake manifold because it was dirty with oil/carbon inside.

This is how the maven mounts to the bottom of the turbo.

This is how it looked the day I picked it up.

Currently how it sits.

I bought this intercooler but not sure if I'm going to use it. I am undecided if I want to use a air to water intercooler instead.

 

Cool project. Glad to see someone taking the time to post their build on Acurazine.
FYI it takes years to get good at TIG welding, but watch some videos from "The Fabrication Channel" and you can get up to speed pretty quick.
When you get tired of the engine vibration from those polyurethane mounts, then consider the Fastline mounts from Heeltoe. By far the best mounts you can buy.

 

I actually have been watching that YT channel to learn as I go. The vibration isn't horrible except when the AC is on and at a stop light 😂 I haven't looked into the fastline mounts, I take it they don't vibrate?

 

Hey question, why you chose the j35a1 rods over let's say the eBay china rods? Also why the halferland pistons over gaping rings on the stock pistons? I'm just curious to the decisions as I am currently boosted myself but I'm deciding on my built bottom end setup. My heads are ported/built by P2R with Supertech Springs/Retainers, Manley valves, and ARP head studs.

 

The J35a1 from 99-01 honda odyssey are the strongest oem rods you can have and they cost $100. Many people have boosted them to 800hp, Aaron from english racing, he has that Teal eg civic hatchback with the J32, he ran those rods at 750hp for year spinning to 8000rpms. He recommended I just get those oem rods. The stock J35a8 pistons I had a very good idea before I took the motor apart that they would have had seized piston rings and burned oil on the top of the pistons so I ordered the pistons ahead of time. When I removed them I was correct, I didn't have the time to send them out to get cleaned. Also I didn't know if removing the rods from the pistons would crack the pistons, I did that before when I build my first engine years ago. I didn't bother trying, but I will if ever use them on a different engine. But from the limited info there is the oem J35a8 pistons crack after 550ish-HP. My plan was making around 700hp so the halferland pistons and the J35a1 rods will be able to take that abuse. When I'm done and I have the itch to make more power then I would build another motor.

Oh I just noticed, I checked our your YT video last week, ha small world. I like those wheels.

 

Small progress, mocked up the turbo to see where I want it sitting. I think this is where it will stay, man it's going to look good.

 

F*ck this is dope.

Have you clocked the compressor housing yet to ensure the outlet doesn't interfere with the frame (as pictured)?
Do you have a tubing bender and/or notcher? Or are you going to go with one of these kits for the manifolds & downpipe; https://www.turbokits.com/d-i-y-weld...gtlu2z35b6g_lP

 

Good stuff man! And I did not realize that Aaron was running those rods specifically unless I missed that or didn't remember. I was thinking on running the Chinese rods and Wiseco Pistons. Epoxy the block and call it a day. But like I mentioned before I'm still researching some options. And yeah small world indeed. I will create my Turbo build thread on here eventually. I'm currently working on the episodes for the YT channel first. Then a write up. I'm pushing around 650whp @ 17.3psi on E, stock bottom end J35A8. But I want to finish build the engine by the end of this year.

 

Mine is placed similarly there, it's more slanted counterclockwise than yours is though. Here's a pic for reference and maybe some ideas.


@BOOSTED6IX-S Turbo Engine Bay

 

I didn’t realize they sold that. I bought all of my stainless steel from Acerace, monkeyfab garage and timmannis racing for the chromoly tubing. Yes both the compressor and turbine housing will be clocked away from the frame rail. In the picture it’s clocked like that to hold the center position of the turbo.

 

My original plan was to turbo the stock motor and send it. See what happens like you lol. But I was burning way too much oil and I had to rebuild it. If I go for more hp I will epoxy the block too and get weisco pistons, I always had good experience with them.

I was going to clock my turbo like yours and run the downpipe in the front but I the tube bender I have sucks and couldn’t make a bend for the maven mount.

 

Oh damn. No worries though, there are others who have mounted the turbo the same way you did. I can't wait to see the fabrication! I will be following your progress!

 

Small update, I got some supplies in. The stainless steal is nice quality, glad I didn't cheap out on it. Watch a lot of videos, used chat GPT for my welder's settings and I was able to tig some a little bit. It's easy and hard at the same time if that makes sense. Easy once you get going, hard teaching yourself with no one telling you what you are doing wrong.


All of these are 2.5" piping, that's the size I will be using for the manifolds off the heads which will transition into 3" before the turbo.

This is a transition piece. It is 3" on one end and 2" on the other. So you can go from 3" to 2" or vis versa, the lines are .25" of an inch.

First time tig welding, it's really easy blowing holes in this chromoly.

After days of trail and error and blowing off all of my anger I finally was able to lay down some beads. I'm getting the hang of it now. I bought some practice metal to practice on.

The mount is fully welded up. I still have to fill in the two holes I made though.

Turbo mounted to the car, it's very solid.

And this is how I am clocking the turbo. The turbine points towards the chassis about 45 degrees and the compressor is clocked away the frame rail just a little bit like 10-20 degrees.

 

Been a minute since I've seen a thread on here that peaked my attention, this is good stuff. Seems like you have the engine and turbo build all planned out, have you considered some of the trans upgrades like straight cut gears and shaft cuff? Keep us updated!

 

RV6 stopped making straight cut 3-4 gears. I researched what limited info there is out there isn’t a huge benefit over oem gears. But I am thinking about installing a 6th gear cuff so I don’t strip 3rd gear. I’m planning on having the tuner make less torque under 4k rpms as possible. But if it does eventually strip the gears I will plan to do J2K and put in a built K transmission.

 

Small update, I bought SS coupons to practice on instead of “trying out” on the real tubing. I learned quite a bit just from doing it on that. Just as I was getting the hang of it my tank ran empty so I will update once I get started again. It will be pretty satisfying doing this all myself instead of just having someone build this.

Also I left the turbo installed in the car. To see if the mount would crack at all or bend and it’s sitting perfectly still. Welds holding up perfectly. Not bad for never welding anything before. And still watching hours of tig videos on YT.



This is just practicing learning how tig works.

Gas flow, amps being used and how close to the medal makes a huge difference.

So at first I bought a cheap $40 helmet. I couldn’t clearly see what I was welding and I kept getting arc flashes and flickering. There’s no way people can weld like this so after a bit of research I decided my eyes are more important than saving some $$$. Now this helmet is beautiful. I can actually see what I’m welding and no more arc flashing or flickering. Do it right the first time and do it once or do it ok and do it twice lol.