TB Coolant Bypass Mod...anyone do this?
#42
Safety Car
Yep, gas mileage might drop slightly. There is a sensor in the throttle body (Air Temp Sensor ) that detects the temp of the incoming air. This sensor has a probe that protudes into the airstream. However, I would think a significant amount of heat is conducted into the probe from it's housing that is threaded into the throtlle body. Remove the coolant lines from throttle body, the throttle body runs cooler, the less heat is conducted into the sensor. Thus, the sensor (calibrated to have x amount heat conduted from the housing) nows runs cooler. Computer detects a cooler temp from sensor, and computer produces a richer A/F mixture, slightly poorer MPG.
Yes, the MPG does drop (mine drops approx 1 to 2 MPG) during the winter months with my all of my "heat reduction" tricks (coolant bypass, custom insulated CAI, removed engine shrouds, Outlaw spacer, etc.). The Air Temp Sensor in the throttle body does remain much, much cooler than OEM. Thus, the computer will richen the air/fuel mixture to compensate for the sensor being cooler than OEM. The richer mixture means less MPG.
My car actually runs better in hot weather than cooler days due to my many (too many ?) "heat reduction" tricks . I have zero heat-sink problems even during 100 degree days here in Houston. It runs stronger during a 100 degree day than a 40 degree day.
During the hot summer days (anything above 80 degrees), I see great MPG even with all of the cooling tricks.
Cheers
Yes, the MPG does drop (mine drops approx 1 to 2 MPG) during the winter months with my all of my "heat reduction" tricks (coolant bypass, custom insulated CAI, removed engine shrouds, Outlaw spacer, etc.). The Air Temp Sensor in the throttle body does remain much, much cooler than OEM. Thus, the computer will richen the air/fuel mixture to compensate for the sensor being cooler than OEM. The richer mixture means less MPG.
My car actually runs better in hot weather than cooler days due to my many (too many ?) "heat reduction" tricks . I have zero heat-sink problems even during 100 degree days here in Houston. It runs stronger during a 100 degree day than a 40 degree day.
During the hot summer days (anything above 80 degrees), I see great MPG even with all of the cooling tricks.
Cheers
#45
Safety Car
Originally Posted by JsL138
I thought the Air Temp Sensor is on the intake manifold. Is it the same sensor that the AEM intake allows you to relocate?
#46
Team Owner
Generally speaking,
Hot intake air= better mileage and less power
Cold intake air= better power and less mileage
Hotter coolant temps= better mileage, less wear, and sometimes but not always less power
There are factors such as if the hot intake air makes the car detonate, mileage will be worse than with cold air.
As Inaccurate pointed out, the intake air temp sensor sees the colder air and richens the mixture resulting in worse mileage...but on a different car with a different strategy, that same sensor might see the cooler air and the computer will advance timing a little which can help mileage.
Hot intake air= better mileage and less power
Cold intake air= better power and less mileage
Hotter coolant temps= better mileage, less wear, and sometimes but not always less power
There are factors such as if the hot intake air makes the car detonate, mileage will be worse than with cold air.
As Inaccurate pointed out, the intake air temp sensor sees the colder air and richens the mixture resulting in worse mileage...but on a different car with a different strategy, that same sensor might see the cooler air and the computer will advance timing a little which can help mileage.
#47
Originally Posted by I hate cars
Generally speaking,
Hot intake air= better mileage and less power
Cold intake air= better power and less mileage
Hotter coolant temps= better mileage, less wear, and sometimes but not always less power
There are factors such as if the hot intake air makes the car detonate, mileage will be worse than with cold air.
As Inaccurate pointed out, the intake air temp sensor sees the colder air and richens the mixture resulting in worse mileage...but on a different car with a different strategy, that same sensor might see the cooler air and the computer will advance timing a little which can help mileage.
Hot intake air= better mileage and less power
Cold intake air= better power and less mileage
Hotter coolant temps= better mileage, less wear, and sometimes but not always less power
There are factors such as if the hot intake air makes the car detonate, mileage will be worse than with cold air.
As Inaccurate pointed out, the intake air temp sensor sees the colder air and richens the mixture resulting in worse mileage...but on a different car with a different strategy, that same sensor might see the cooler air and the computer will advance timing a little which can help mileage.
#48
Instructor
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Originally Posted by evanj5
On my car after performing this mod I actually put the IAT sensor back into the IM instead of in the relocation spot on the CAI pipe so that the sensor picks up hotter temp readings. The reason I did this was an assumption that I made that our cars are most likely going to be advancing timing to the point of detonation hence the reason that myself and many others get pinging. So far I believe it has helped improve mileage and reduced pinging both very slightly, nothing to jump for joy over but I have noticed a difference.
#49
Originally Posted by JsL138
My thoughts exactly...I noticed that the engine pinged more when I had it in the CAI location. And the CAI makes the pinging more pronounced, so it's easy to hear. Damn the Type-S and it's pinging engine. Whatever happened with that supposed reflash that a member on here got?
at least my car doesnt pings as much as before i had cai and spacer.
today it was wierd, its was 86 and humid and was at like 3k rpm on the highway in 3rd gear and floored it and oddly enough no pinging. go figure.
#50
I drive a Subata.
iTrader: (1)
what's pinging?
sorry i'm pretty nub on these terms.
sorry i'm pretty nub on these terms.
#51
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#52
Turd Polisher
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After 1 tank of gas, I lost 2 / 3 mpg.
I can drive my car much harder and get the same gas mileage before this mod. It sure is tempting to go back.
I can drive my car much harder and get the same gas mileage before this mod. It sure is tempting to go back.
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Sohan24 (12-29-2017)
#55
AZ Community Team
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Originally Posted by TLAdvanced
WTF that makes no sense? :troutslap
So if he goes back, he can drive much more agressively and get the same mileage as driving "normally" with the bypass.
(Hope I got that right TylerT).
My only comment would be that 1 tank probably isn't enough to judge on. Could be a lot of thing that throw of the mileage in that short of a test.
#56
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Originally Posted by TylerT
After 1 tank of gas, I lost 2 / 3 mpg.
I can drive my car much harder and get the same gas mileage before this mod. It sure is tempting to go back.
I can drive my car much harder and get the same gas mileage before this mod. It sure is tempting to go back.
#57
Registered VTEC junkie
Originally Posted by dmb4325
Yea I would say try driving on it a couple of times and be concious of where you get your gas from and what octane your using. All fuel may come from the same refinary, but there is still is first run gasoline and there is the bottom of the barrell
#59
Ryan Christopher
Way to bring an old thread back! It is good to see someone use the search. As for capping the inlets, are you talking about the ones on the TB? If so, there is no need. It is just dead space inside the TB when you disconnect the the coolant lines.
#60
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
I just did the mod but have not driven the car yet. On the other hand, somehow, I don't feel comfortable leaving the TB inlets not capped.
Btw, there is still coolant coming out from the TB inlets. Not much but still. I guess, I will just let all the coolant get out and then cap the TB inlets.
Btw, there is still coolant coming out from the TB inlets. Not much but still. I guess, I will just let all the coolant get out and then cap the TB inlets.
#61
Team Owner
I just did the mod but have not driven the car yet. On the other hand, somehow, I don't feel comfortable leaving the TB inlets not capped.
Btw, there is still coolant coming out from the TB inlets. Not much but still. I guess, I will just let all the coolant get out and then cap the TB inlets.
Btw, there is still coolant coming out from the TB inlets. Not much but still. I guess, I will just let all the coolant get out and then cap the TB inlets.
#63
Team Owner
The heat after shutdown is completely normal. Gas mileage can't be affected, there are no temp sensors in the TB and I doubt it makes more than a 1 degree difference in inlet air temps.
#64
Three Wheelin'
holy mother of god...... whats with these arguments....1 mpg, 2 mpg...
you wanna make power??? you will have to spend more money on gas....plain and simple...
the coolant line into the TB is there just for the purpose of helping the car warm up faster in the winter...which also reduces emissions....nothing more... now why on earth would you want ur intake air heating up?
i dont get you ppl....u want power, but you want better gas milage after power adder mods? IT DOESNT WORK LIKE THAT...... so quit your bitching and moaning... and expect worse mpg after everything you do.... bcs even if its not and induction mod... it can be as simple as changing a crank pulley... your going to drive differently...i guarantee you that, you will push the car differently...and that my friend is whats messing with ur head about ur mpg
here's an example... you could shed 400 lbs off ur car...which is a lot... but you know what.... ur gonna end up pushing ur car so much more, because u will love how it feels after all that weight drop...and ull just end up driving harder more often...and guess what.... ur mpg is back to crap.. SO QUIT YOUR BITCHING
you wanna make power??? you will have to spend more money on gas....plain and simple...
the coolant line into the TB is there just for the purpose of helping the car warm up faster in the winter...which also reduces emissions....nothing more... now why on earth would you want ur intake air heating up?
i dont get you ppl....u want power, but you want better gas milage after power adder mods? IT DOESNT WORK LIKE THAT...... so quit your bitching and moaning... and expect worse mpg after everything you do.... bcs even if its not and induction mod... it can be as simple as changing a crank pulley... your going to drive differently...i guarantee you that, you will push the car differently...and that my friend is whats messing with ur head about ur mpg
here's an example... you could shed 400 lbs off ur car...which is a lot... but you know what.... ur gonna end up pushing ur car so much more, because u will love how it feels after all that weight drop...and ull just end up driving harder more often...and guess what.... ur mpg is back to crap.. SO QUIT YOUR BITCHING
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#66
Team Owner
For sure. Instead of running at the coolant temp of 190 degrees, it feels cool to the touch when the engine is running with the lines bypassed. It will heatsoak once the engine is shut off but it's no worse than with the water hooked up.
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aboysua6 (06-05-2014)
#67
Racer
iTrader: (7)
I did this friday in 3-4 mins... VERY EASY! also i reattached the hose i removed to the 2 bottom TB in and out lines. So if i ever want to put back to stock its there and i dont have to worry about losing the hose.
i can now put hand on the TB and its barely warm unlike b4 it was too hot to touch.
I was also impressed with how adding the MDX IM spacer keeps the upper IM barely warm as well. hell i dont c any need for the thermal gaskets at this point
i can now put hand on the TB and its barely warm unlike b4 it was too hot to touch.
I was also impressed with how adding the MDX IM spacer keeps the upper IM barely warm as well. hell i dont c any need for the thermal gaskets at this point
#68
Racer
Just did this to my 02, but it was more complicated due to the seperate vsa tb, i followed the directions of th 04 and found coolant leaking, then i went bak to under my hood dertirmined to find out where it came from? ends up the coolant runs through the vsa tb to the transmission through a seperate hose, i simply ran that 2nd coolant line to the tranny, now no leaks, havent driven it yet, ill see if this mod is benifical or not
#69
Racer
i hope the tb's do not lock up due to corrosion since the antifreeze acts as a lubricant, im afraid to spray wd-40 the cap it off not knowing whats really affected or not
#71
Racer
drives a in 100 degree weather like it previously did in 80 degree weather which is nice, i can touch the tb for 7 second until it burns. but the weather is currently dry that could have alot to do with the lil more pull i feel under normal driving condtions, my temp gauge read 100 but i personally wasnt sweating profusly with the windows down, maybe its a combination of me being well hydrated and my tb not in these hot airid condtions. either way i think others exadutrate as to how cool their intake has become. repin the ATX
#72
SlammedOnKonis
iTrader: (6)
drives a in 100 degree weather like it previously did in 80 degree weather which is nice, i can touch the tb for 7 second until it burns. but the weather is currently dry that could have alot to do with the lil more pull i feel under normal driving condtions, my temp gauge read 100 but i personally wasnt sweating profusly with the windows down, maybe its a combination of me being well hydrated and my tb not in these hot airid condtions. either way i think others exadutrate as to how cool their intake has become. repin the ATX
#73
Safety Car
Originally Posted by Anonymous via PM
I did this TB Coolant Bypass mod but i have a question? I rerouted the coolant hose back to the coolant tube, but in your pics you don’t say anything else about the other two pipes coming out through the bottom of the tb? Should I leave the two pipes open or should I plug the holes? Does it make a difference? I just feel weird about leaving them unplugged but if I need to leave them unplugged to get a better result i will leave them open.
The two open ends under the TB can be left exposed. I left mine exposed for years. Having it exposed will not hurt anything.
Inside, it is just a simple in/out passageway for the hot water to travel thru it.
If you wish, you can place end caps over each opening. There is no real reason to do so. It would make a cleaner appearance with the end caps however.
Another option, which I do recommend, to create a clean appearance is to remove the entire plate like I did recently. The plate is approx 1-1/2 inches square. It is attached with two Phillip-head screws (bolts). It will be difficult to get a screwdriver to fit because there is no room for the screwdriver handle. I used a Phillip-head bit and used a small wrench to turn the bit..
Originally Posted by Anonymous via PM
So when you took off the whole thing on the tb that lets coolant in and out, did you leave that exposed or did you put the screws back on using them as caps or are the holes so small and do not reach into the tb itself?