Taming the beast! PCD Rasp (videos posted)
08-26-2010, 08:39 AM
#122
Team Owner
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Location: Kansas City, MO (Overland Park, KS)
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Nice video's!
08-27-2010, 08:30 AM
#125
I think that's a component of rasp. I had the same rattling sounds.
Just ordered a couple of magnaflows. Was considering changing the two resonators I had or adding a 3rd but I am getting sick of changing exhaust parts. I liked the sound of the first catback I built and I hope I can get close even though I am catless with a turbo.
Here is the one resonator and two resonator clip. Excuse the rich idle, dogs and birds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9prq7YOPUk
Just ordered a couple of magnaflows. Was considering changing the two resonators I had or adding a 3rd but I am getting sick of changing exhaust parts. I liked the sound of the first catback I built and I hope I can get close even though I am catless with a turbo.
Here is the one resonator and two resonator clip. Excuse the rich idle, dogs and birds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9prq7YOPUk
08-29-2010, 02:06 PM
#127
Hey just got my precats. Thanks Richie! Quality looks great and shipping was quick. Innaccurate thanks for the links and tips on install. I will be attempting this with jack stands and/or ramps. Can anybody give me tips on getting the rear precat out. I know to remove the heat shield and strut bar but it still looks pretty tight in there.
08-30-2010, 03:00 AM
#128
Former Sponsor
Hey just got my precats. Thanks Richie! Quality looks great and shipping was quick. Innaccurate thanks for the links and tips on install. I will be attempting this with jack stands and/or ramps. Can anybody give me tips on getting the rear precat out. I know to remove the heat shield and strut bar but it still looks pretty tight in there.
This is the only socket I've found that fits over the stud without being extra long.
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...9&blockType=L9
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=536433_0_0_
My number is on a card in the precat hardware feel free to give me a call if you get stuck.
08-30-2010, 04:46 AM
#130
Former Sponsor
08-30-2010, 04:47 AM
#131
Hey just got my precats. Thanks Richie! Quality looks great and shipping was quick. Innaccurate thanks for the links and tips on install. I will be attempting this with jack stands and/or ramps. Can anybody give me tips on getting the rear precat out. I know to remove the heat shield and strut bar but it still looks pretty tight in there.
08-30-2010, 05:07 AM
#134
08-30-2010, 07:22 AM
#135
Safety Car
It is very important to remove both clamshell halves (cat heat shield) before attempting to drop down the rear cat. This whole process of removing the rear cat requires A LOT of patience. Don't get mad and try to muscle it out. Won't work. You must take time and patience to finesse it out. With all pieces (both clamshells and the naked cat), take your time to wiggle the pieces around in various positions to make room to work with and until you find the magic spot to allow it to clear it's way thru the bottom opening.
- Drop J-Pipe
- Remove the four nuts holding cat to engine head
- Pull the complete rear cat assembly off of the four studs on the engine head.
- Remove the nuts and bolts holding the clamshell to the cat
- Completely remove (to the floor) each clamshell half (time and patience)
- Remove the naked cat (time and patience)
. BTW, I did *not* remove the sensors from the cat until after the cat was out.
08-30-2010, 11:19 AM
#136
This is my winning combo for getting the rear precat. The longer ratchet gives you greater leverage and the flexible head helps with the angle of the block.
This is the only socket I've found that fits over the stud without being extra long.
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...9&blockType=L9
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=536433_0_0_
My number is on a card in the precat hardware feel free to give me a call if you get stuck.
This is the only socket I've found that fits over the stud without being extra long.
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...9&blockType=L9
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=536433_0_0_
My number is on a card in the precat hardware feel free to give me a call if you get stuck.
Thanks for suggestions Richie. I've got a swivel rachet. I will see if I need the socket.
What do you guys think about reinstalling the 3rd cat instead of the test pipe. I don't want the car to sound too loud and this might keep the fumes in check.
Thanks for all the support/comments guys. This site is awesome. I feel the darkside calling me.
08-31-2010, 07:01 AM
#138
Safety Car
^ True. The proper method is to use the designated tool for the job. However, I do want to add that I zero problems using a plain Crescent wrench to remove the sensors.
As you we quickly discover upon your first attempt, the hardest part of removing the sensor is making the cat hold still while you apply pressure to the wrench. Below is a pic showing the wooden fixture that I used to hold the cat in position as I removed the sensor. In the pic below, the four red dots is where you use large wood screws to affix the cat to the 2x4.
In the pic below, the ratchet was used to screw down the cat to the 2x4. The Crescent wrench was used to remove the sensors.
I used the same fixture to tighten the sensors on the PCD too.
As you we quickly discover upon your first attempt, the hardest part of removing the sensor is making the cat hold still while you apply pressure to the wrench. Below is a pic showing the wooden fixture that I used to hold the cat in position as I removed the sensor. In the pic below, the four red dots is where you use large wood screws to affix the cat to the 2x4.
In the pic below, the ratchet was used to screw down the cat to the 2x4. The Crescent wrench was used to remove the sensors.
I used the same fixture to tighten the sensors on the PCD too.
08-31-2010, 09:48 AM
#139
^ True. The proper method is to use the designated tool for the job. However, I do want to add that I zero problems using a plain Crescent wrench to remove the sensors.
As you we quickly discover upon your first attempt, the hardest part of removing the sensor is making the cat hold still while you apply pressure to the wrench. Below is a pic showing the wooden fixture that I used to hold the cat in position as I removed the sensor. In the pic below, the four red dots is where you use large wood screws to affix the cat to the 2x4.
In the pic below, the ratchet was used to screw down the cat to the 2x4. The Crescent wrench was used to remove the sensors.
I used the same fixture to tighten the sensors on the PCD too.
As you we quickly discover upon your first attempt, the hardest part of removing the sensor is making the cat hold still while you apply pressure to the wrench. Below is a pic showing the wooden fixture that I used to hold the cat in position as I removed the sensor. In the pic below, the four red dots is where you use large wood screws to affix the cat to the 2x4.
In the pic below, the ratchet was used to screw down the cat to the 2x4. The Crescent wrench was used to remove the sensors.
I used the same fixture to tighten the sensors on the PCD too.
09-03-2010, 08:59 AM
#142
Ok so I started on the pcd install last night after work. I only spent a couple hours on it just removing all the preliminary stuff (ie heat sheilds, jpipe, strut tower bar). This morning I started again with the rear precat. Got it out but removed alot of shit and don't know how the brackets for the o2 sensors go back in. There are 2 brackets I removed from the rear o2. Ones is down low and one high. Does anyone have a pic or diagram of how they go back in? I am stumped. Plus I think I lost a couple of bolts. Guess I am going to the store.
09-03-2010, 10:05 AM
#143
Safety Car
09-03-2010, 10:13 AM
#144
Thanks Inaccurate. You da man. That thing was driving me crazy. Also I have the front pcd like you show in the pic with the defouler pointing up and there is maybe 3/8 of an inch gap from the front motor mount. Is this ok? What if the defouler was pointing down? Thanks.
09-03-2010, 10:47 AM
#145
Safety Car
I do not recommend facing downward for two reasons.
1) Doubt the cable is long enough to reach from that angle
2) Concern that water might condensate around the sensor during warm-up
When you say "there is maybe 3/8 of an inch gap from the front motor mount", do you mean the aluminum motor-mount bracket (attached to engine block) shown in the pic above? Or, do you mean the black rubber covering the mount itself?
if you mean the black rubber covering the mount itself - can you angle the defouler slightly more vertical to get slightly more clearance?
If the sensor is next to that aluminum motor-mount bracket - that is ok. There is no relative motion between the sensor and that aluminum motor-mount bracket (attached to engine block).
09-03-2010, 11:50 AM
#146
It looks pretty much like yours but I have the stock motor mount. Looks like you have aftermarket. The defouler is about 3/8" away from the silver metal bracket that bolts the motor mount to the engine. Yeah I didn't think upside down would be good either.
09-03-2010, 12:27 PM
#147
Safety Car
The sensor can be close to the bracket outlined in green. The sensor could even be touching the bracket (touching the green line).
There is no relative movement between the sensor and the bracket outlined in green.
09-03-2010, 08:05 PM
#149
Ok I got them in!!!! I might have made a mistake and put the 3rd cat back on. I am going to swap it out with the test pipe tomorrow. There is quite a bit of rasp between 2-3k rpms. Putting some of the heat shields back was a bitch. I have a couple of brackets left over that I am not sure how to put back. Really the only one I am concerned with is the rear lower 02 sensor wire bracket. For some reason it pisses me off that I cannot figure out how it goes back on. Performance seems really nice. The gf actually liked it. Not too loud for her.
09-03-2010, 11:48 PM
#150
Ok I got them in!!!! I might have made a mistake and put the 3rd cat back on. I am going to swap it out with the test pipe tomorrow. There is quite a bit of rasp between 2-3k rpms. Putting some of the heat shields back was a bitch. I have a couple of brackets left over that I am not sure how to put back. Really the only one I am concerned with is the rear lower 02 sensor wire bracket. For some reason it pisses me off that I cannot figure out how it goes back on. Performance seems really nice. The gf actually liked it. Not too loud for her.
did you install the resonator too or no?
09-04-2010, 05:26 PM
#151
RV-6 precat deletes--> RV-6 J-pipe V2--> RV-6 resonated test pipe--> 2.5" piping to a muffler shop resonator--> stock y-pipe to stock Type-S mufflers and tips. I had the stage 3 done before the precat delete installs. Performance is nice but I have a good bit of rasp between 2500-3200 rpms. Might have to add another resonator. Fumes are not too bad at all. Smell slightly rich.
09-04-2010, 10:51 PM
#154
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Join Date: Jul 2009
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OP-
just installed Richie's PCD's and an XLR8 HFC on my TL-S two days ago (the rest of setup is ATLP V2 J-pipe and cat-back).
The same rasp in your first posted video is there, but is much more subdued- after 48 hours, it's either gone or I'm used to it, haven't noticed it since the first day. I'm assuming this is due to the HFC.
If nothing else, the additional gains from the HFC are worth the install (the gains are reported, haven't dynoed yet).
just installed Richie's PCD's and an XLR8 HFC on my TL-S two days ago (the rest of setup is ATLP V2 J-pipe and cat-back).
The same rasp in your first posted video is there, but is much more subdued- after 48 hours, it's either gone or I'm used to it, haven't noticed it since the first day. I'm assuming this is due to the HFC.
If nothing else, the additional gains from the HFC are worth the install (the gains are reported, haven't dynoed yet).
09-07-2010, 11:36 AM
#157
I think the 3rd cat is gonna be a big bottleneck. I installed the 3rd cat on my set up and changed it over to the test pipe the next day. The 3rd cat gave the exhaust a nasty rasp. I would say skip the cats altogether. I need another resonator put in to kill the rasp at 2500-3000 rpms.
09-11-2010, 01:31 PM
#158
Like Sonick said you can have a 3rd cat welded in after the V3.
I like the Magnaflow spun high flow cats. They are 250-300 Cell metallic substrate. It will reduce around 90% of the smell and help tame the rasp as well.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-59956/
I like the Magnaflow spun high flow cats. They are 250-300 Cell metallic substrate. It will reduce around 90% of the smell and help tame the rasp as well.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-59956/
How would adding this 3rd cat affect performance? My exhaust is as follows: V2 PCD's --> V2 J Pipe with resonated test pipe --> stock exhaust with stage 3.
I will be adding another resonator at the minimum due to rasp between 2500- 3200 rpms.
09-11-2010, 04:59 PM
#159
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
Alright after reading a lot of threads about rasps and drones... it seems like PCD alone would cause the rasps?
Or is it the cat-back alone? Or with combination to PCDs? I guess what I am asking is... what part of the exhaust should I NOT get if I don't want rasps?
Or is it the cat-back alone? Or with combination to PCDs? I guess what I am asking is... what part of the exhaust should I NOT get if I don't want rasps?
09-11-2010, 10:23 PM
#160
Safety Car
First and foremost to avoid rasp, do not get PCD. However, the PCD will not have rasp if you add another resonator.
Second thing to avoid rasp, do not remove your oem resonator.
Replacing other components of the exhaust system usually does not produce rasp. You might get drone however.
Second thing to avoid rasp, do not remove your oem resonator.
Replacing other components of the exhaust system usually does not produce rasp. You might get drone however.
