swoosh's build thread....the HIGH PROTEIN DIET !!! (Updated Pics-Page 74-7/12/15)
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hahaha...now that you know, you got on here hahah
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^^^ bullshit....you know more technical than i do...
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Undying Dreams (07-13-2012)
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Austin makes sense then....
as i was telling you over the PM's earlier, I went with the Tein basics because I wanted to almost tuck tire...and wanted ride adjust-ability....recently switched to ISN N1's as I wanted Preload adjustment and Dampening adjustment....
in the end, if you are happy with what you got and like the car that way, thats all that matters
Ty: quit messing with Austin's head....
as i was telling you over the PM's earlier, I went with the Tein basics because I wanted to almost tuck tire...and wanted ride adjust-ability....recently switched to ISN N1's as I wanted Preload adjustment and Dampening adjustment....
in the end, if you are happy with what you got and like the car that way, thats all that matters
Ty: quit messing with Austin's head....
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^^^ hahahaha yup
it was supposed to be in Austins thread LOL and i was wondering who deleted my post LOL....
it was supposed to be in Austins thread LOL and i was wondering who deleted my post LOL....
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Undying Dreams (07-13-2012)
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newbie
#1135
Whats up with RDX owners?
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C'mon Anil, you're slipping up man.
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i blame it on Friday the 13th
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swoosh (07-14-2012)
#1139
Whats up with RDX owners?
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#1141
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Best response ever.
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Here is an update:
EGR Delete Done
Rear Door Panels, Deleted
15.8 lbs gone !!!
Here is the weight loss so far:
621.20 DONE
3626.80 Starting Weight
3005.60 Current Static weight
2907.60 Current Dynamic Weight
If interested, here is the detailed weight loss sheet which is uploaded on Google Drive...
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...GdkLXlGSUlTWmc
EGR Delete Done
Rear Door Panels, Deleted
15.8 lbs gone !!!
Here is the weight loss so far:
621.20 DONE
3626.80 Starting Weight
3005.60 Current Static weight
2907.60 Current Dynamic Weight
If interested, here is the detailed weight loss sheet which is uploaded on Google Drive...
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...GdkLXlGSUlTWmc
#1145
Ah, hamburgers!
Here is an update:
EGR Delete Done
Rear Door Panels, Deleted
15.8 lbs gone !!!
Here is the weight loss so far:
621.20 DONE
3626.80 Starting Weight
3005.60 Current Static weight
2907.60 Current Dynamic Weight
If interested, here is the detailed weight loss sheet which is uploaded on Google Drive...
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...GdkLXlGSUlTWmc
EGR Delete Done
Rear Door Panels, Deleted
15.8 lbs gone !!!
Here is the weight loss so far:
621.20 DONE
3626.80 Starting Weight
3005.60 Current Static weight
2907.60 Current Dynamic Weight
If interested, here is the detailed weight loss sheet which is uploaded on Google Drive...
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...GdkLXlGSUlTWmc
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EGR is the exhaust gas recirculation....the best description i have found was via Inaccurate on V6 Performance website which was posted by Paul (NVA-AV6)
difference being, we just capped off the EGR....
here is the link for more reading
remove the red 'X'
http://www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7th-generation-honda-accord-2003-2007/195314-bye-bye-egr.html
Well, not exactly, but damn close enough. As we all know the EGR system robs some power by injesting hot/dirty exhaust gases directly back into the intake. We can't remove the valve without throwing a code and we can't block it without throwing a code. If we block it the ECU throws a "Isufficent Flow" code as well as the ODB emissions monitor will show error since the ECU actually detects the lean out caused by the EGR opening and flowing exhaust back, and this is the key, the ECU does not care weather it is hot exhaust or cold/clean intake air. So I decedied to machine out a EGR Bypass Adaptor that allows us to connect eaither a breather filter or a hose connected back to the breather fitting on the intake. I just came back from a 50+ mile test drive with no codes thrown and for good mesure before I left on the drive I reset my ECU and emmissions monitors after the drive I checked and the EGR emissions monitor was happy with the bypass, so this will not effect passing emissions, and probably will pass visual if you hook a hose back into the intake.
here is the link for more reading
remove the red 'X'
http://www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7th-generation-honda-accord-2003-2007/195314-bye-bye-egr.html
Last edited by swoosh; 07-14-2012 at 09:06 PM.
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was just appending to my gas mileage spreadsheet so thought will post some of my recent fills on here...
remember miles are all city miles, unless mentioned....
Date Mileage Fill Distance Avg Notes
06/22/2012 159,242 3.21 122 22.190
06/23/2012 159,319 5.35 77 23.995 - Installed ISCN1 suspension and Moogs endlinks
06/26/2012 159,428 5.62 109 20.374
06/28/2012 159,539 6.05 111 19.761
06/29/2012 159,629 9.62 90 14.888 - Racing the NSX LOL
07/02/2012 159,853 5.53 224 23.287
07/04/2012 160,000 5.84 147 26.602 - Easy foot on the gas…AC ON…
07/09/2012 160,101 5.93 101 17.306
07/13/2012 160,221 5.22 120 20.226
07/15/2012 160,350 5.77 129 24.708 - AC ON…70 highway miles…doing 85mph
am thinking about going back to the 3 gallon fill up routine....
remember miles are all city miles, unless mentioned....
Date Mileage Fill Distance Avg Notes
06/22/2012 159,242 3.21 122 22.190
06/23/2012 159,319 5.35 77 23.995 - Installed ISCN1 suspension and Moogs endlinks
06/26/2012 159,428 5.62 109 20.374
06/28/2012 159,539 6.05 111 19.761
06/29/2012 159,629 9.62 90 14.888 - Racing the NSX LOL
07/02/2012 159,853 5.53 224 23.287
07/04/2012 160,000 5.84 147 26.602 - Easy foot on the gas…AC ON…
07/09/2012 160,101 5.93 101 17.306
07/13/2012 160,221 5.22 120 20.226
07/15/2012 160,350 5.77 129 24.708 - AC ON…70 highway miles…doing 85mph
am thinking about going back to the 3 gallon fill up routine....
Last edited by swoosh; 07-15-2012 at 10:54 PM.
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^^^ hahah thanks man....yeah its was crazy when i used to get 3 gallons coz I was in the gas station every day....with 5-6 gallons am there every 3-4 days LOL...
#1150
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Just when I put my back seats back in, and fill the car up with gas, and have the family riding with me....someone tries to race me
Havent been able to put the "diet" to the test yet. And im planning on going another route soon (audio setup)
glad to see those door panels are off, and now i think I have to get that egr delete done too
Havent been able to put the "diet" to the test yet. And im planning on going another route soon (audio setup)
glad to see those door panels are off, and now i think I have to get that egr delete done too
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^^^ dude when my family comes here they gonna be like
and the 160K miles brought forth a lot of maintenance items:
I notice a little squealing when turning the steering lock to lock....i checked the reservioir and saw bubbles....so i might rebuild the PS pump like Jer did by replacing all the seals and will replace my oring as well and will do a flush with Amsoil PSF
After the EGR delete, there is a certain drone i hear at 2200rpm and it is just nasty....i hate that RPM now....it just makes me wanna cringe....I will be resetting the ECU today to see if it makes any difference....i will be placing the EGR back to see if the drone goes away, so i can point a finger at the delete....
Also, I think my brakes a done...I seriously cannot complain....got the brakes at 75K miles....powerslot slotted rotors and HAWK HPS brake pads....replaced the front pads with the same HAWK HPS at 120K (so 45K on them)....replaced the rear pads and rear caliper at 155K (damn seized caliper caused the pads to wear out, so got 80K out of them...replaced the caliper with Advance Auto Parts caliper and the rear pads with Tim's choice RB ET500)....and now I can feel my front pads are done as well....so another ~45K on them....I do have RB ET500 fronts sitting in my storage....
But here is the problem am experiencing, while braking over bumps or something like that, the rotors slip i can see that the pads try to grip it but the rotors just go thro....which makes me feel the front rotors are done too....When i take it in for alignment, I will be asking them to check the rotors to see if they are in spec and if they are warped
am sitting 160,350 and I foresee a 1000 mile trip in the next 2 weeks....i think i will be climbing to 165K pretty quick and here is the list of things i need to take care of between now and 165K miles
ENGINE OIL
OIL FILTER
ALIGNMENT
ROTATE AND BALANCE
TRANNY OIL
TRANNY SENSORS
TRANNY FILTER
SPARK PLUGS
PS FLUID
BRAKE OIL
COOLANT
Probably a full new brake setup....
I really want to get the RB 2piece rotors but just the fact that they are 700 bucks for the front 2 make me sad...I have heard great things about the Brakemotives brakes (heard they stop amazingly well and I installed em on Dave's car and the quality seems nice too)....all for 150 shipped
Well lets see how it goes....
and the 160K miles brought forth a lot of maintenance items:
I notice a little squealing when turning the steering lock to lock....i checked the reservioir and saw bubbles....so i might rebuild the PS pump like Jer did by replacing all the seals and will replace my oring as well and will do a flush with Amsoil PSF
After the EGR delete, there is a certain drone i hear at 2200rpm and it is just nasty....i hate that RPM now....it just makes me wanna cringe....I will be resetting the ECU today to see if it makes any difference....i will be placing the EGR back to see if the drone goes away, so i can point a finger at the delete....
Also, I think my brakes a done...I seriously cannot complain....got the brakes at 75K miles....powerslot slotted rotors and HAWK HPS brake pads....replaced the front pads with the same HAWK HPS at 120K (so 45K on them)....replaced the rear pads and rear caliper at 155K (damn seized caliper caused the pads to wear out, so got 80K out of them...replaced the caliper with Advance Auto Parts caliper and the rear pads with Tim's choice RB ET500)....and now I can feel my front pads are done as well....so another ~45K on them....I do have RB ET500 fronts sitting in my storage....
But here is the problem am experiencing, while braking over bumps or something like that, the rotors slip i can see that the pads try to grip it but the rotors just go thro....which makes me feel the front rotors are done too....When i take it in for alignment, I will be asking them to check the rotors to see if they are in spec and if they are warped
am sitting 160,350 and I foresee a 1000 mile trip in the next 2 weeks....i think i will be climbing to 165K pretty quick and here is the list of things i need to take care of between now and 165K miles
ENGINE OIL
OIL FILTER
ALIGNMENT
ROTATE AND BALANCE
TRANNY OIL
TRANNY SENSORS
TRANNY FILTER
SPARK PLUGS
PS FLUID
BRAKE OIL
COOLANT
Probably a full new brake setup....
I really want to get the RB 2piece rotors but just the fact that they are 700 bucks for the front 2 make me sad...I have heard great things about the Brakemotives brakes (heard they stop amazingly well and I installed em on Dave's car and the quality seems nice too)....all for 150 shipped
Well lets see how it goes....
#1152
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^^^ Thanks Dave...yeah i might need some help when we do my rotors/pads/brake bleeding....switches/filter/etc....will def seem like deja vu LOL....
and you dont owe me anything bro....wait, maybe those fast fixing nuggets
Forgot to add i might install the external tranny cooler as well....
and you dont owe me anything bro....wait, maybe those fast fixing nuggets
Forgot to add i might install the external tranny cooler as well....
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Noobie question.
Difference between static and dynamic weight?
Difference between static and dynamic weight?
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Austin, static weight is the weight of the object at the scale....also movement has no affect on them....
dynamic is the exact opposite....so when the car moves, the rolling mass makes the car seem "lighter"...so rotors/wheels/tires/crank pulley they come under dynamic weight....
take wheels for example....if am running a 22lb wheel with a 22lb tire and you are running a 15lb wheel with the same 22lb tire....you are 7lbs less in each corner....this is the static weight loss...but wheels are affected with a multiple of 3....so dynamically you will be 21lbs (7x3) less in each corner....
hope it makes sense....
dynamic is the exact opposite....so when the car moves, the rolling mass makes the car seem "lighter"...so rotors/wheels/tires/crank pulley they come under dynamic weight....
take wheels for example....if am running a 22lb wheel with a 22lb tire and you are running a 15lb wheel with the same 22lb tire....you are 7lbs less in each corner....this is the static weight loss...but wheels are affected with a multiple of 3....so dynamically you will be 21lbs (7x3) less in each corner....
hope it makes sense....
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Yeah that does help. Thanks
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Thanks for the shout, Anil...it'll be easy for you to rebuild that pump. You're experienced at all this stuff now!
About your brakes, I would be shocked if the fronts are cooked and the pads are slipping through?! Could it be that ABS is kicking in when you are stopping and going over a bump?
About your brakes, I would be shocked if the fronts are cooked and the pads are slipping through?! Could it be that ABS is kicking in when you are stopping and going over a bump?
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Your welcome....
Dude you made an awesome DIY...gotta shout out to ya....and thanks for having faith in me but you will be surprised how easily i can mess up LOL....
I did think about the ABS kicking in but didnt want to think about my ABS pump/module going bad LOL. It scares me now to brake over bumps. I dont remember who but someone did say something about a stiff suspension causes this but I have yet to hear anything like this from anyone on the forum, gotta try and research this....
Since the rotors have almost 90K on them, I was thinking they might be warped and warped rotors do induce "slipping". At the same time I did find a lot of post around cleaning the ABS sensor and the Vehicle Speed Sensor...lets see how this goes....
Thanks for the shout, Anil...it'll be easy for you to rebuild that pump. You're experienced at all this stuff now!
About your brakes, I would be shocked if the fronts are cooked and the pads are slipping through?! Could it be that ABS is kicking in when you are stopping and going over a bump?
About your brakes, I would be shocked if the fronts are cooked and the pads are slipping through?! Could it be that ABS is kicking in when you are stopping and going over a bump?
I did think about the ABS kicking in but didnt want to think about my ABS pump/module going bad LOL. It scares me now to brake over bumps. I dont remember who but someone did say something about a stiff suspension causes this but I have yet to hear anything like this from anyone on the forum, gotta try and research this....
Since the rotors have almost 90K on them, I was thinking they might be warped and warped rotors do induce "slipping". At the same time I did find a lot of post around cleaning the ABS sensor and the Vehicle Speed Sensor...lets see how this goes....
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#1159
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I know of an air conditioned garage where you can change those.
#1160
Safety Car
Scared??? I think it is a hoot. But you already know that I am one crazy dude. I know when to expect it... usually. I get a kick out of it when it happens. I get it a lot.
This is the limiting factor that prevents me from going to Full stiffness on my suspension. When I tried Full stiff, it was a bit dangerous when encountering "washboard" bumps as I approached an intersection. The pseudo ABS was too intense and prevented me from stopping aggressively enough for my liking. So, I reduced the firmness by 2 clicks. This is a happy compromise between getting the firmest ride possible and still allow the tires to stay in contact with the road surface enough to have aggressive braking capability.
Wow. Awesome. Was this an accident (see bold words in your quote) or intended? Kudos for getting it correct . Most people do not know difference between weight versus mass.