swoosh's build thread....the HIGH PROTEIN DIET !!! (Updated Pics-Page 74-7/12/15)
03-08-2012, 03:30 PM
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Lightweight wheels made the most noticeable difference in my TL diet. RPF1's are awesome but I was also looking at Kosei K4R. They look great, weigh only 14.8 lbs for the 17x8 and are reasonably priced at 199 per wheel. Check them out on tirerack.com. I have not seen them on a TL yet...
Thanks for those Kosei rims....seems like they dont fit the TL....check the sparco rims 17.5 lbs and only 135 bucks a pop
. . . . . . . . . 
-------- The TL Diet: Woo Hoo, What a Ride !!! --------
Thank you for appreciating my work and having trust in me. So many people have "rolled their eyes" at my diet (click here) while failing to recognize or appreciating the positive aspects of it. The early years of my TL Diet were truly some dark days filled with mostly ridicule and snickers.
While accepting credit myself, I wish to give credit to those that helped me. I wish to give credit and thanks to the forum moderators for allowing my Diet thread to remain open thru the dark days. A very special thanks to csmeance (Moderator) for cleaning-up my Diet thread and giving much needed protection to the thread.
At one point, I had to plea with moderators (via PM) to please leave my Diet thread unlocked. I reasoned with the moderators that there would come a day, maybe years from then, where Acurazine members would begin to adopt my Diet mods once the value of the car dropped low enough. It is heart-warming to see my vision and hopes come to fruition.
I also wish to thank those Acurazine members that have displayed support of my Diet. Thank you IHC (I Hate Cars) for your open support of my Diet. Especially those members that supported me in the early years (the dark days). It took a lot of heart for those members to openly support me in the dark days among all of the ridicule that was being displayed. A special thanks to member "pohljm" for encouraging me to create my TL Diet thread in the first place.
Ha,ha..... GOOD LUCK WITH THIS ONE
Once it "gets into your blood", there is no cure for the illness. You will live from one "weight loss" fix to the next fix. Diet Junkie. You will begin to lose interest in building-up the motor because you will see that it is MUCH easier to increase the acceleration via weight lose than N/A mods. You will become addicted to the feel of the lightness..... the ease at which the car will quickly accelerate, throwing the car around like a rag doll, and the neck snapping braking with the lightest touch on the brake pedal.
And heaven forbid if you ever become addicted to the "Zero G-force Feeling" (click here). This was my downfall. I fell deeply in love with the Zero-G feeling and became deeply addicted to the feeling. Even to this day, the Zero-G feeling is my life and my passion.
I can see early signs of the illness befalling you ---->
"with my trunk full of my stuff, I could feel the additional 80 odd pounds slowing me down....... acceleration was gone"
But on the bright side of things...... Don't worry buddy. I got your Diet fixes planned out.
Please keep in mind if a person is to become a hardcore Dieter, they need to learn to compromise and sacrifice for the Cause. It ain't about what rims will look pretty. It is all about what is the lightest rim that I can find for a realistic price (not a $2k per rim price tag for a CF rim) that has my correct offset and bolt pattern.
Wilson, What you mean by "only"
When you remove the back seat, the loss will be 54.2 Lbs.
36.0 Rear seat delete
8.5 Seatbelts for rear seat
6.0 Rear seat arm rest
3.7 Rear seat insulation
When referencing my list, you will need to carefully read thru the entire list to pick-out all applicable items. Because my list was created using an evolutionary process, many items are broken down into sub-components. For example with the back seat, I first removed the "Rear seat arm rest" before removing the entire back seat. Thus, the "Rear seat arm rest" became an embedded item in my overall list. Then when I removed the entire rear seat, I did not want to disturb the current list and just added the weight of the seat in it's current state (without the arm rest).
What does "Fat Tire" mean?
The MID's "Miles To Empty" will become your new best friend?
Each day, I perform a check-point to fine-tune my fuel level. Along my daily route, I know where I should be hitting the "O Miles To Empty". Some days I hit it sooner and others days hit it later in my commute. By doing the daily check-point, I stay within about 0.1 gallon of my target fuel level. When I purchase fuel the next morning, I know that I need to get 1/10 gallon more or 1/10 gallon less according to where I hit the "0 Miles To Empty" the evening before.
The "Dynamic weight" is taking into account the benefit derived from the rotational mass reductions. Thus, the "Dynamic weight" is what an oem TL would need to weigh to have the equivalent acceleration and deceleration. And, with everyone's interest in WHP being to determine acceleration abilities, this is why dynamic weight should be used to calculate the equivalent WHP.
To calculate the Dynamic weight, we need to first separate the dynamic item(s) from the static items. This separation is done to prevent "double dipping". As an example, if we are going to be using the dynamic weight equivalent of the pulley, we can Not also claim the static weight of the pulley in the overall calculation (see below).
STEPS TO CALCULATE DYNAMIC WEIGHT
---------------------------------------
1) Remove *all* dynamic items from the static total
46.8 Lbs Total Static - 7.0 Lbs UR crank pulley = 39.8 Total Static Loss (without dynamic items)
2) Add all dynamic items back into the total, but using the dynamic weight equivalent of the items.
39.8 Total Static (without dynamic items) + 105 Dynamic weight loss from UR Pulley = 144.8 Lbs Total Dynamic Loss
3) Subtract the Total Dynamic Loss from the curb weight
3626.8 - 144.8 = 3482.0 Lbs. Dynamic weight
ESTIMATED WEIGHT
------------------------------------
3626.8 - 46.8 = 3580 Lbs. Static
3626.8 - 144.8 = 3482.0 Lbs. Dynamic
After you remove the rear seat, kiss your stereo Good-bye. I pissed in my pants the first time that I drove my car with the rear seat removed. Massively loud road noise coming from the rear wheels. Beyond your imagination.
This gets us back to that conversation about being dedicated to the Cause and making sacrifices. Kiss your stereo good bye. Listening to your radio and talking on the cell phone are Not compatible with a hard-core Diet. You will need to re-adjust your lifestyle to suit the TL Diet. After removing the rear seat, it just gets louder from there as you progress towards the Full-Bore Diet.
I use an iPod. I love it. Spend some money on high quality ear buds and you will soon forget that car radio all together.
PS - Get a mascot. And you can't use my Terminator mascot.
-------- The TL Diet: Woo Hoo, What a Ride !!! --------
Thank you for appreciating my work and having trust in me. So many people have "rolled their eyes" at my diet (click here) while failing to recognize or appreciating the positive aspects of it. The early years of my TL Diet were truly some dark days filled with mostly ridicule and snickers.
While accepting credit myself, I wish to give credit to those that helped me. I wish to give credit and thanks to the forum moderators for allowing my Diet thread to remain open thru the dark days. A very special thanks to csmeance (Moderator) for cleaning-up my Diet thread and giving much needed protection to the thread.
At one point, I had to plea with moderators (via PM) to please leave my Diet thread unlocked. I reasoned with the moderators that there would come a day, maybe years from then, where Acurazine members would begin to adopt my Diet mods once the value of the car dropped low enough. It is heart-warming to see my vision and hopes come to fruition.
I also wish to thank those Acurazine members that have displayed support of my Diet. Thank you IHC (I Hate Cars) for your open support of my Diet. Especially those members that supported me in the early years (the dark days). It took a lot of heart for those members to openly support me in the dark days among all of the ridicule that was being displayed. A special thanks to member "pohljm" for encouraging me to create my TL Diet thread in the first place.
Ha,ha..... GOOD LUCK WITH THIS ONE
Once it "gets into your blood", there is no cure for the illness. You will live from one "weight loss" fix to the next fix. Diet Junkie. You will begin to lose interest in building-up the motor because you will see that it is MUCH easier to increase the acceleration via weight lose than N/A mods. You will become addicted to the feel of the lightness..... the ease at which the car will quickly accelerate, throwing the car around like a rag doll, and the neck snapping braking with the lightest touch on the brake pedal.
And heaven forbid if you ever become addicted to the "Zero G-force Feeling" (click here). This was my downfall. I fell deeply in love with the Zero-G feeling and became deeply addicted to the feeling. Even to this day, the Zero-G feeling is my life and my passion.
I can see early signs of the illness befalling you ---->
"with my trunk full of my stuff, I could feel the additional 80 odd pounds slowing me down....... acceleration was gone"
But on the bright side of things...... Don't worry buddy. I got your Diet fixes planned out.
Please keep in mind if a person is to become a hardcore Dieter, they need to learn to compromise and sacrifice for the Cause. It ain't about what rims will look pretty. It is all about what is the lightest rim that I can find for a realistic price (not a $2k per rim price tag for a CF rim) that has my correct offset and bolt pattern.
Wilson, What you mean by "only"
When you remove the back seat, the loss will be 54.2 Lbs.
36.0 Rear seat delete
8.5 Seatbelts for rear seat
6.0 Rear seat arm rest
3.7 Rear seat insulation
When referencing my list, you will need to carefully read thru the entire list to pick-out all applicable items. Because my list was created using an evolutionary process, many items are broken down into sub-components. For example with the back seat, I first removed the "Rear seat arm rest" before removing the entire back seat. Thus, the "Rear seat arm rest" became an embedded item in my overall list. Then when I removed the entire rear seat, I did not want to disturb the current list and just added the weight of the seat in it's current state (without the arm rest).
What does "Fat Tire" mean?
The MID's "Miles To Empty" will become your new best friend?
Each day, I perform a check-point to fine-tune my fuel level. Along my daily route, I know where I should be hitting the "O Miles To Empty". Some days I hit it sooner and others days hit it later in my commute. By doing the daily check-point, I stay within about 0.1 gallon of my target fuel level. When I purchase fuel the next morning, I know that I need to get 1/10 gallon more or 1/10 gallon less according to where I hit the "0 Miles To Empty" the evening before.
The "Dynamic weight" is taking into account the benefit derived from the rotational mass reductions. Thus, the "Dynamic weight" is what an oem TL would need to weigh to have the equivalent acceleration and deceleration. And, with everyone's interest in WHP being to determine acceleration abilities, this is why dynamic weight should be used to calculate the equivalent WHP.
To calculate the Dynamic weight, we need to first separate the dynamic item(s) from the static items. This separation is done to prevent "double dipping". As an example, if we are going to be using the dynamic weight equivalent of the pulley, we can Not also claim the static weight of the pulley in the overall calculation (see below).
STEPS TO CALCULATE DYNAMIC WEIGHT
---------------------------------------
1) Remove *all* dynamic items from the static total
46.8 Lbs Total Static - 7.0 Lbs UR crank pulley = 39.8 Total Static Loss (without dynamic items)
2) Add all dynamic items back into the total, but using the dynamic weight equivalent of the items.
39.8 Total Static (without dynamic items) + 105 Dynamic weight loss from UR Pulley = 144.8 Lbs Total Dynamic Loss
3) Subtract the Total Dynamic Loss from the curb weight
3626.8 - 144.8 = 3482.0 Lbs. Dynamic weight
ESTIMATED WEIGHT
------------------------------------
3626.8 - 46.8 = 3580 Lbs. Static
3626.8 - 144.8 = 3482.0 Lbs. Dynamic
After you remove the rear seat, kiss your stereo Good-bye. I pissed in my pants the first time that I drove my car with the rear seat removed. Massively loud road noise coming from the rear wheels. Beyond your imagination.
This gets us back to that conversation about being dedicated to the Cause and making sacrifices. Kiss your stereo good bye. Listening to your radio and talking on the cell phone are Not compatible with a hard-core Diet. You will need to re-adjust your lifestyle to suit the TL Diet. After removing the rear seat, it just gets louder from there as you progress towards the Full-Bore Diet.
I use an iPod. I love it. Spend some money on high quality ear buds and you will soon forget that car radio all together.
PS - Get a mascot. And you can't use my Terminator mascot.
@ your reply Tim hahaha...yeah the illness is spreading and spreading quickly....i usually dont use the AC/Heater....so i do not mind deleting that....but but but i need the music LOL....me n my girl take long drives and even thow we love talking, i would like music LOL....
lets see if i can find some alternative.....need to get Accuratien + IHC in here as well....
thanks bro
03-08-2012, 04:17 PM
#43
Swoosh, the Kosei's will absolutely fit the TL.
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/resul...rSpecial=false
Match them up with some conti dw's and you will be at 37lbs per corner!
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/resul...rSpecial=false
Match them up with some conti dw's and you will be at 37lbs per corner!
03-08-2012, 04:55 PM
#44
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^^^ hahaha thats funny.....
it doesnt show up when you select 2005 TL but shows up when you say you got a 2006 TL
but yeah 37 per corner is not bad at all.....its awesome !!!
it doesnt show up when you select 2005 TL but shows up when you say you got a 2006 TL
but yeah 37 per corner is not bad at all.....its awesome !!!
03-08-2012, 06:41 PM
#45
Worry about reducing more weight than getting more ponies.
I felt the biggest difference after I gutted my car, than I did going fully catless.
Anyway, I am curious to how you plan to reach 350whp without going FI. As I'm struggling to even break 260 on a 6mt. Will continue to watch this.
And PS. Remove the front seats. World of a difference.
I felt the biggest difference after I gutted my car, than I did going fully catless.
Anyway, I am curious to how you plan to reach 350whp without going FI. As I'm struggling to even break 260 on a 6mt. Will continue to watch this.
And PS. Remove the front seats. World of a difference.
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Inaccurate (03-08-2012)
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03-08-2012, 09:37 PM
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@Phatrick: well going catless, you might have only gained ~20-25 WHP tops....and gutting your car, you might have dropped 300 odd lbs....so i completely agree with you....
about being at 260, what mods do you have ???
I listed my mods on the first page but lets compare
AEM CAI
Oversized AEM filter
Insulated Air Intake all the way
Bored Throttle body (71.xx/68.xx)
Bored Moore's Over sized Throttle Body Spacer
Bored P2R Throttle Body Thermal Gaskets
Ported and Polish Intake Manifold
Removed Butterfly from the Manifold
Ported and Polished MDX Spacer
Ported and Polished Intake Runners
Ported P2R Intake Manifold Thermal Gaskets
RV6 V2 PCD's ceramic coated inside out
Custom True Dual Exhaust
UR Crank Stock Size Crank Pulley
Innovative Engine mounts
If you do not have ported and polished manifold + runners + tb, your missing ~20-22 whp right there....abd yeah my exhaust is very free flowing ....plus the ECU gets your ~25WHP....so thats ~40 HP right there....
About getting to 350...cams + springs + retainers + head/valve job = ~15% power....so ~45HP....again these are bare bare numbers....the reason i know i can get there is coz Andy with a Stage II cammed engine was riding at 340HP (i think that was on AEM FIC) with the JnR ECU he would have been past 350....
Also with the weight loss, I want to keep some features of the car, hence the word "High Protein"....so i want to do some weight loss and do some engine work.....
@Tim: I do agree and the seats are on my list....i am trying to strike something with NRG LOL
12lb seats here i come
about being at 260, what mods do you have ???
I listed my mods on the first page but lets compare
AEM CAI
Oversized AEM filter
Insulated Air Intake all the way
Bored Throttle body (71.xx/68.xx)
Bored Moore's Over sized Throttle Body Spacer
Bored P2R Throttle Body Thermal Gaskets
Ported and Polish Intake Manifold
Removed Butterfly from the Manifold
Ported and Polished MDX Spacer
Ported and Polished Intake Runners
Ported P2R Intake Manifold Thermal Gaskets
RV6 V2 PCD's ceramic coated inside out
Custom True Dual Exhaust
UR Crank Stock Size Crank Pulley
Innovative Engine mounts
If you do not have ported and polished manifold + runners + tb, your missing ~20-22 whp right there....abd yeah my exhaust is very free flowing
....plus the ECU gets your ~25WHP....so thats ~40 HP right there....About getting to 350...cams + springs + retainers + head/valve job = ~15% power....so ~45HP....again these are bare bare numbers....the reason i know i can get there is coz Andy with a Stage II cammed engine was riding at 340HP (i think that was on AEM FIC) with the JnR ECU he would have been past 350....
Also with the weight loss, I want to keep some features of the car, hence the word "High Protein"....so i want to do some weight loss and do some engine work.....
@Tim: I do agree and the seats are on my list....i am trying to strike something with NRG LOL
12lb seats here i come
Last edited by swoosh; 03-08-2012 at 09:41 PM.
03-08-2012, 10:19 PM
#48
As much as I'm for the numbers game, bear in mind swoosh. These numbers are always peaks @ 5500+rpms. It's better to have a smoothed out low end than a peak high end.
So far I am fully catless, with intake and lightweight UR pulley. I also have a ingalls torque damper set to a pretty stiff setting and I'm fully re-grounded. I don't know my exact numbers but I'm sure I can't be anymore than 260whp @ 6000+.
I do want to port and polish my head/manifold, and maybe bore the tb, but I kinda give up with this power game. 260, or 350, it's all about where the power is. Driving my friends evo IX who's turbo is fully spooled at 4500rpms made me go wtf am I wasting my money for haha.
But I am definitely looking forward to your build. If you get good numbers, maybe it'll change my mind about the whole thing
I'm not sure exactly how much weight I lost, but I can do a guesstimate using Tim's chart and maybe see where I stand. Pretty sure I didn't lose that much either haha.
Can't edit anymore so... Using Tim's list.. I calculated about 250lbs off. Mind you for the ones I wasn't sure of I used a really low guess so it could be marginally more than that. And I'm not entirely gutted anymore. The only thing thats missing is the rear seats/armrest. So fully gutted I think I was almost 3100's static. And since I'm an MT, it's in the sub 3500 stock. I'm pretty happy knowing I'm 3250 ish
I really need lightweight tires/wheels/rotors.
So far I am fully catless, with intake and lightweight UR pulley. I also have a ingalls torque damper set to a pretty stiff setting and I'm fully re-grounded. I don't know my exact numbers but I'm sure I can't be anymore than 260whp @ 6000+.
I do want to port and polish my head/manifold, and maybe bore the tb, but I kinda give up with this power game. 260, or 350, it's all about where the power is. Driving my friends evo IX who's turbo is fully spooled at 4500rpms made me go wtf am I wasting my money for haha.
But I am definitely looking forward to your build. If you get good numbers, maybe it'll change my mind about the whole thing
I'm not sure exactly how much weight I lost, but I can do a guesstimate using Tim's chart and maybe see where I stand. Pretty sure I didn't lose that much either haha.
Can't edit anymore so... Using Tim's list.. I calculated about 250lbs off. Mind you for the ones I wasn't sure of I used a really low guess so it could be marginally more than that. And I'm not entirely gutted anymore. The only thing thats missing is the rear seats/armrest. So fully gutted I think I was almost 3100's static. And since I'm an MT, it's in the sub 3500 stock. I'm pretty happy knowing I'm 3250 ish
I really need lightweight tires/wheels/rotors.
Last edited by Steven Bell; 03-09-2012 at 09:03 PM. Reason: Merged Posts.
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Gullyguy (10-14-2022)
03-09-2012, 07:40 AM
#50
Safety Car
The NRG 300 series seats are 12 pounds. But, they are light for a reason. And, I mean that in a bad way.
None of the NRG seats are FIA-Homologated. I highly advise against using any seats, brackets, or harnesses that are not FIA-Homologated.
Related Reading -
Random online article (click here)
Random forum thread (click here)
Safety aspects of racing seats and racing harnesses in street cars (click here)
None of the NRG seats are FIA-Homologated. I highly advise against using any seats, brackets, or harnesses that are not FIA-Homologated.
Related Reading -
Random online article (click here)
Random forum thread (click here)
Safety aspects of racing seats and racing harnesses in street cars (click here)
03-09-2012, 01:00 PM
#51
Safety Car
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Get forged 1 piece wheels
Aprox ever 100# loss makes the car 0.10 second faster in the 1/4 mile.
So if you eliminate 500# your car would be aprox 1/2 second faster in the 1/4 mile (1320') and about 0.20 seconds faster 0-60.
Is all this worth it ?
Why dont you buy an S2000 ?
Aprox ever 100# loss makes the car 0.10 second faster in the 1/4 mile.
So if you eliminate 500# your car would be aprox 1/2 second faster in the 1/4 mile (1320') and about 0.20 seconds faster 0-60.
Is all this worth it ?
Why dont you buy an S2000 ?
03-09-2012, 01:26 PM
#53
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As much as I'm for the numbers game, bear in mind swoosh. These numbers are always peaks @ 5500+rpms. It's better to have a smoothed out low end than a peak high end.
So far I am fully catless, with intake and lightweight UR pulley. I also have a ingalls torque damper set to a pretty stiff setting and I'm fully re-grounded. I don't know my exact numbers but I'm sure I can't be anymore than 260whp @ 6000+.
I do want to port and polish my head/manifold, and maybe bore the tb, but I kinda give up with this power game. 260, or 350, it's all about where the power is. Driving my friends evo IX who's turbo is fully spooled at 4500rpms made me go wtf am I wasting my money for haha.
But I am definitely looking forward to your build. If you get good numbers, maybe it'll change my mind about the whole thing
I'm not sure exactly how much weight I lost, but I can do a guesstimate using Tim's chart and maybe see where I stand. Pretty sure I didn't lose that much either haha.
Can't edit anymore so... Using Tim's list.. I calculated about 250lbs off. Mind you for the ones I wasn't sure of I used a really low guess so it could be marginally more than that. And I'm not entirely gutted anymore. The only thing thats missing is the rear seats/armrest. So fully gutted I think I was almost 3100's static. And since I'm an MT, it's in the sub 3500 stock. I'm pretty happy knowing I'm 3250 ish
I really need lightweight tires/wheels/rotors.
So far I am fully catless, with intake and lightweight UR pulley. I also have a ingalls torque damper set to a pretty stiff setting and I'm fully re-grounded. I don't know my exact numbers but I'm sure I can't be anymore than 260whp @ 6000+.
I do want to port and polish my head/manifold, and maybe bore the tb, but I kinda give up with this power game. 260, or 350, it's all about where the power is. Driving my friends evo IX who's turbo is fully spooled at 4500rpms made me go wtf am I wasting my money for haha.
But I am definitely looking forward to your build. If you get good numbers, maybe it'll change my mind about the whole thing
I'm not sure exactly how much weight I lost, but I can do a guesstimate using Tim's chart and maybe see where I stand. Pretty sure I didn't lose that much either haha.
Can't edit anymore so... Using Tim's list.. I calculated about 250lbs off. Mind you for the ones I wasn't sure of I used a really low guess so it could be marginally more than that. And I'm not entirely gutted anymore. The only thing thats missing is the rear seats/armrest. So fully gutted I think I was almost 3100's static. And since I'm an MT, it's in the sub 3500 stock. I'm pretty happy knowing I'm 3250 ish
I really need lightweight tires/wheels/rotors.
also 3GStealth mentioned some decently priced rims....37 pounds a corner....if you have motegi traklites you will be around 33 pounds a corner....
The NRG 300 series seats are 12 pounds. But, they are light for a reason. And, I mean that in a bad way.
None of the NRG seats are FIA-Homologated. I highly advise against using any seats, brackets, or harnesses that are not FIA-Homologated.
Related Reading -
Random online article (click here)
Random forum thread (click here)
Safety aspects of racing seats and racing harnesses in street cars (click here)
None of the NRG seats are FIA-Homologated. I highly advise against using any seats, brackets, or harnesses that are not FIA-Homologated.
Related Reading -
Random online article (click here)
Random forum thread (click here)
Safety aspects of racing seats and racing harnesses in street cars (click here)
where did you get those OMP seats from ???
Get forged 1 piece wheels
Aprox ever 100# loss makes the car 0.10 second faster in the 1/4 mile.
So if you eliminate 500# your car would be aprox 1/2 second faster in the 1/4 mile (1320') and about 0.20 seconds faster 0-60.
Is all this worth it ?
Why dont you buy an S2000 ?
Aprox ever 100# loss makes the car 0.10 second faster in the 1/4 mile.
So if you eliminate 500# your car would be aprox 1/2 second faster in the 1/4 mile (1320') and about 0.20 seconds faster 0-60.
Is all this worth it ?
Why dont you buy an S2000 ?
again am not trying to loose any features of the car.....
you know whats the fun in ??? surprising people....i have surprised couple cars with the mods i have.....wanna make it a little lighter....make it quicker....get better gas mileage, better braking and become nimbler
i knew you were gonna beat me to it LOL....
03-09-2012, 02:30 PM
#54
Safety Car
While being absolutely correct with the rule-of-thumb of 100 Lbs = 0.1 seconds, something about your 0.2 seconds quicker to 60 mph just does not sit well with me.
I feel like it would be quicker to 60 mph than just 2/10 second if you dropped 500 lbs.
Several things to attribute to this -
1) The weight advantages (especially the dynamic reductions) are biased more toward the first half of the run versus the last half of the run.
2) Usually, the weight is coming off the rear half of the car more than the front half which aids traction.
3) As any drag car becomes quicker or lighter, it requires less overall gearing. As the TL loses weight, it will bog much less (5AT) than when oem when floored from a complete stop. In my diet, I am at a point where I am over geared in first. With meduim throttle, my car actually pulls harder in 2nd than first gear because 1st is basically used just to spin-up the engine versus moving the car.
I am confused why you took this approach with "JD TL-S".
Drag racing is ALL about quickness not speed.
JD was using the 1/4 mile as a figure of speech to convey his point. I agree with him and I would had done the same thing of using the 1/4 mile to express my thoughts.
The 1/4 mile is very applicable in the setting that we are discussing. In the regards that 1/4 racing is expressing how quickly the car accelerate from any point and up to 100 mph (being a rough number to express a general thought).
Last edited by Steven Bell; 03-09-2012 at 09:03 PM. Reason: Merged Posts.
03-09-2012, 02:50 PM
#55
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^^^ the reason i said quicker is because the overall weight loss will help you around corners and help you brake later and stop quicker....hence you are quicker....
it does aid in being FAST, but i think it aids a lot more in being QUICK !!!
and where did you get those OMP seats from ??? the website doesnt have a checkout option LOL
it does aid in being FAST, but i think it aids a lot more in being QUICK !!!
and where did you get those OMP seats from ??? the website doesnt have a checkout option LOL
03-09-2012, 03:09 PM
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^^^ 
dont do that....you got me LOL...
dont do that....you got me LOL...
03-09-2012, 03:42 PM
#58
Safety Car
The below is an excerpt from my Diet thread. As a friendly reminder, I have a lot of valuable info in my various Update posts in that thread. Here is the link (click here) to when I installed the OMP seats.
A chunk of time was used to decide which brand and model of seat to get. There is a wide selection of models to choose among. I felt like a "kid in a candy store." After comparing, I liked the OMP brand the most. I had to spend time to find a good vendor that I could trust to order from online (including some phone screening of possible vendors). No vendors stocked the OMP seat model that I wanted. Therefore, my order was drop-shipped to me from OMP. This worked out great because I was assured of receiving fresh product straight from the OMP's warehouse in Florida. As a side note, OMP seats are made in Italy and then shipped to the OMP warehouse in Miami, Florida.
[End excerpt]
The phone number for the OMP warehouse in Florida is 305.373.0051. But, I don't think that you can order stright from them. You must go thru a vendor.
For my harnesses and OMP seat brackets, I purchased from www.pegasusautoracing.com
For the OMP seats, I purchased from www.motorspot.com
There was nothing too special about motorspot. You could pick almost any vendor that carries OMP seats. I suggest calling around to interview them over the phone and see who you feel the most comfortable with. That is how I picked motorspot.
A chunk of time was used to decide which brand and model of seat to get. There is a wide selection of models to choose among. I felt like a "kid in a candy store." After comparing, I liked the OMP brand the most. I had to spend time to find a good vendor that I could trust to order from online (including some phone screening of possible vendors). No vendors stocked the OMP seat model that I wanted. Therefore, my order was drop-shipped to me from OMP. This worked out great because I was assured of receiving fresh product straight from the OMP's warehouse in Florida. As a side note, OMP seats are made in Italy and then shipped to the OMP warehouse in Miami, Florida.
[End excerpt]
The phone number for the OMP warehouse in Florida is 305.373.0051. But, I don't think that you can order stright from them. You must go thru a vendor.
For my harnesses and OMP seat brackets, I purchased from www.pegasusautoracing.com
For the OMP seats, I purchased from www.motorspot.com
There was nothing too special about motorspot. You could pick almost any vendor that carries OMP seats. I suggest calling around to interview them over the phone and see who you feel the most comfortable with. That is how I picked motorspot.
03-09-2012, 04:19 PM
#61
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The below is an excerpt from my Diet thread. As a friendly reminder, I have a lot of valuable info in my various Update posts in that thread. Here is the link (click here) to when I installed the OMP seats.
A chunk of time was used to decide which brand and model of seat to get. There is a wide selection of models to choose among. I felt like a "kid in a candy store." After comparing, I liked the OMP brand the most. I had to spend time to find a good vendor that I could trust to order from online (including some phone screening of possible vendors). No vendors stocked the OMP seat model that I wanted. Therefore, my order was drop-shipped to me from OMP. This worked out great because I was assured of receiving fresh product straight from the OMP's warehouse in Florida. As a side note, OMP seats are made in Italy and then shipped to the OMP warehouse in Miami, Florida.
[End excerpt]
The phone number for the OMP warehouse in Florida is 305.373.0051. But, I don't think that you can order stright from them. You must go thru a vendor.
For my harnesses and OMP seat brackets, I purchased from www.pegasusautoracing.com
For the OMP seats, I purchased from www.motorspot.com
There was nothing too special about motorspot. You could pick almost any vendor that carries OMP seats. I suggest calling around to interview them over the phone and see who you feel the most comfortable with. That is how I picked motorspot.
A chunk of time was used to decide which brand and model of seat to get. There is a wide selection of models to choose among. I felt like a "kid in a candy store." After comparing, I liked the OMP brand the most. I had to spend time to find a good vendor that I could trust to order from online (including some phone screening of possible vendors). No vendors stocked the OMP seat model that I wanted. Therefore, my order was drop-shipped to me from OMP. This worked out great because I was assured of receiving fresh product straight from the OMP's warehouse in Florida. As a side note, OMP seats are made in Italy and then shipped to the OMP warehouse in Miami, Florida.
[End excerpt]
The phone number for the OMP warehouse in Florida is 305.373.0051. But, I don't think that you can order stright from them. You must go thru a vendor.
For my harnesses and OMP seat brackets, I purchased from www.pegasusautoracing.com
For the OMP seats, I purchased from www.motorspot.com
There was nothing too special about motorspot. You could pick almost any vendor that carries OMP seats. I suggest calling around to interview them over the phone and see who you feel the most comfortable with. That is how I picked motorspot.
gotta find an alternative 
NO !!! he means non FIA approved brands LOL....
03-09-2012, 10:50 PM
#63
Burning Brakes
2 grand a seat seems way to steep... I been shopping around here and there, I plan on getting a pair in the coming months. Hopefully for under 1500 (not including brackets, belts etc.). But if takes 2 grand a seat to be safe and have a good racing seat I might just skip the seats for now and put the money towards my engine rebuild...
03-09-2012, 11:41 PM
#64
Safety Car
We will see.
phatrick - Did you mean to say that you wouldn't trust your safety to NRG and that NRG makes lower tier versions of everything?
It is not $2000 per seat. Each seat is $639.
Each OMP seat is $639. Here's the prices for my seat project -
639 OMP Grip Seat (PN# HA688H-N)
639 OMP Grip Seat (PN# HA688H-N)
100 Shipping fee ($50 per seat)
134 OMP Seat Bracket (PN# HC732)
134 OMP Seat Bracket (PN# HC732)
309 OMP Racing Harness (PN# DA401E71)
110 OMP Street Harness (PN# DA507071)
100 Grade 8 fasteners and forged eyebolts
---------------------
$2165 Total
It is not $2000 per seat. Each seat is $639.
Each OMP seat is $639. Here's the prices for my seat project -
639 OMP Grip Seat (PN# HA688H-N)
639 OMP Grip Seat (PN# HA688H-N)
100 Shipping fee ($50 per seat)
134 OMP Seat Bracket (PN# HC732)
134 OMP Seat Bracket (PN# HC732)
309 OMP Racing Harness (PN# DA401E71)
110 OMP Street Harness (PN# DA507071)
100 Grade 8 fasteners and forged eyebolts
---------------------
$2165 Total
03-11-2012, 02:23 PM
#65
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LOL
check Craigslist....there are people selling Recaro's and Sparco's for cheap
hahaha i was just messing with you and Phatrick my old friend....btw OLD as in friendship and not that you are OLD 
thanks for the seat breakdown....but check this out:
Seats less than 6kgs (13.2 lbs) from http://www.ompracing.it/pdf/en/sedili.pdf
1> PROTOTIPO HA/745 - 6.1 kgs - 13.4 lbs
2> WRC CARBON HA/769 - 5.6 kgs - 12.3 lbs
3> ARS CARBON HA/770 - 5.8 kgs - 12.7 lbs
each of them cost from http://www.ompamerica.com/racing/seats/ and http://www.motorspot.com/
1> PROTOTIPO HA/745 - 6.1 kgs - 13.4 lbs - $2299
2> WRC CARBON HA/769 - 5.6 kgs - 12.3 lbs - $2099
3> ARS CARBON HA/770 - 5.8 kgs - 12.7 lbs - $ not mentioned
either way....am still on the lookout....
will have an update by Tuesday....with loads of pix
2 grand a seat seems way to steep... I been shopping around here and there, I plan on getting a pair in the coming months. Hopefully for under 1500 (not including brackets, belts etc.). But if takes 2 grand a seat to be safe and have a good racing seat I might just skip the seats for now and put the money towards my engine rebuild...
We will see.
phatrick - Did you mean to say that you wouldn't trust your safety to NRG and that NRG makes lower tier versions of everything?
It is not $2000 per seat. Each seat is $639.
Each OMP seat is $639. Here's the prices for my seat project -
639 OMP Grip Seat (PN# HA688H-N)
639 OMP Grip Seat (PN# HA688H-N)
100 Shipping fee ($50 per seat)
134 OMP Seat Bracket (PN# HC732)
134 OMP Seat Bracket (PN# HC732)
309 OMP Racing Harness (PN# DA401E71)
110 OMP Street Harness (PN# DA507071)
100 Grade 8 fasteners and forged eyebolts
---------------------
$2165 Total
phatrick - Did you mean to say that you wouldn't trust your safety to NRG and that NRG makes lower tier versions of everything?
It is not $2000 per seat. Each seat is $639.
Each OMP seat is $639. Here's the prices for my seat project -
639 OMP Grip Seat (PN# HA688H-N)
639 OMP Grip Seat (PN# HA688H-N)
100 Shipping fee ($50 per seat)
134 OMP Seat Bracket (PN# HC732)
134 OMP Seat Bracket (PN# HC732)
309 OMP Racing Harness (PN# DA401E71)
110 OMP Street Harness (PN# DA507071)
100 Grade 8 fasteners and forged eyebolts
---------------------
$2165 Total
thanks for the seat breakdown....but check this out:
Seats less than 6kgs (13.2 lbs) from http://www.ompracing.it/pdf/en/sedili.pdf
1> PROTOTIPO HA/745 - 6.1 kgs - 13.4 lbs
2> WRC CARBON HA/769 - 5.6 kgs - 12.3 lbs
3> ARS CARBON HA/770 - 5.8 kgs - 12.7 lbs
each of them cost from http://www.ompamerica.com/racing/seats/ and http://www.motorspot.com/
1> PROTOTIPO HA/745 - 6.1 kgs - 13.4 lbs - $2299
2> WRC CARBON HA/769 - 5.6 kgs - 12.3 lbs - $2099
3> ARS CARBON HA/770 - 5.8 kgs - 12.7 lbs - $ not mentioned
either way....am still on the lookout....
will have an update by Tuesday....with loads of pix
03-11-2012, 10:35 PM
#67
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^^^ hahaha not much in here so far.....
starting point
great discussion over seats....
my trunk is getting empty and weather is not helping....been raining here....so once that is done, got couple other cheezy mods coming (switchbacks + lug nuts + etc).....
will have a great update in a week or so !!!
starting point
great discussion over seats....
my trunk is getting empty and weather is not helping....been raining here....so once that is done, got couple other cheezy mods coming (switchbacks + lug nuts + etc).....
will have a great update in a week or so !!!
03-12-2012, 03:51 PM
#68
Anil,
Why did you ask me to check out your build thread? There's nothing for me to say on here.
Waste of my time.
Haha but seriously you've got everything down already! All your mods and future mods are perfect the way it is now. The only things I would add are Progress RSB (didn't see that on your future mods list) and lightweight SEVENTEEN INCH WHEELS. I say 17 because there is no 18 inch wheel that will provide a smaller moment of inertia than it's 17 inch counterpart. Also, the majority of the weight in a tire is in the thread blocks so 18" tires and 17" tires would essentially have the same MOI. The advantage goes to the 17" tire because sidewalls weigh virtually nothing compared to the thread blocks and the 17" alloys will be closer to the vehicles hub center; thus resulting in potentially faster acceleration times.
This is the reason the guys with LIGHTWEIGHT 19" wheels feel that their car accelerates slower than with their heavier oem 17" wheels. The weight of the 19" wheels are placed further from the axis of rotation, resulting in a greater Moment of Inertia. Yes, the wheels are lighter, but the distribution of the weight just as important (if not more-so) than the total weight of the wheel.
From our conversations in other threads on azine, I know that you already know your fair share about lightweight wheels and tires, therefore I have no need to lecturing you. This is just information to others reading the thread that might want a little physics refresher
Your build thread is something to be marveled at. The performance route that fits the TL's personality perfectly. Excellence meets Elegance.
Why did you ask me to check out your build thread? There's nothing for me to say on here.
Waste of my time.
Haha but seriously you've got everything down already! All your mods and future mods are perfect the way it is now. The only things I would add are Progress RSB (didn't see that on your future mods list) and lightweight SEVENTEEN INCH WHEELS. I say 17 because there is no 18 inch wheel that will provide a smaller moment of inertia than it's 17 inch counterpart. Also, the majority of the weight in a tire is in the thread blocks so 18" tires and 17" tires would essentially have the same MOI. The advantage goes to the 17" tire because sidewalls weigh virtually nothing compared to the thread blocks and the 17" alloys will be closer to the vehicles hub center; thus resulting in potentially faster acceleration times.
This is the reason the guys with LIGHTWEIGHT 19" wheels feel that their car accelerates slower than with their heavier oem 17" wheels. The weight of the 19" wheels are placed further from the axis of rotation, resulting in a greater Moment of Inertia. Yes, the wheels are lighter, but the distribution of the weight just as important (if not more-so) than the total weight of the wheel.
From our conversations in other threads on azine, I know that you already know your fair share about lightweight wheels and tires, therefore I have no need to lecturing you. This is just information to others reading the thread that might want a little physics refresher
Your build thread is something to be marveled at. The performance route that fits the TL's personality perfectly. Excellence meets Elegance.
Last edited by lumyeinjun; 03-12-2012 at 03:59 PM.
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03-12-2012, 04:32 PM
#69
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^^^ hahhaa thanks for the comment bro....you came across as a very knowledgeable resource in the other thread and i wanted you to be close to this thread
about rims, yup 17"s are the way to go !!! looking at around 36-37 lbs per corner....but this will not be done for the next year.....
right now am striping off weight of the car....
and the reason you dont see Progress RSB in my list is coz i have it LOL....love that....trying to get the Type S FSB which i think will add to the performance.....
also, i subbed to your thread about areodynamics....dont feel bad if i steal an idea or 2 LOL....
and Thank you for your complement
about rims, yup 17"s are the way to go !!! looking at around 36-37 lbs per corner....but this will not be done for the next year.....
right now am striping off weight of the car....
and the reason you dont see Progress RSB in my list is coz i have it LOL....love that....trying to get the Type S FSB which i think will add to the performance.....
also, i subbed to your thread about areodynamics....dont feel bad if i steal an idea or 2 LOL....
and Thank you for your complement
03-12-2012, 04:54 PM
#70
Moderator
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Wheels this year 
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03-12-2012, 05:19 PM
#71
I didn't think it was too bad when I had the rear seats Out but indeed noise level did go up but it was more of a mild roar for me rather than in your ear.
Also what rpf1 size clears the bbk with proper diameter while clearing the wheel well/fenders
Good thread I'll read more later :thumbup:
Also what rpf1 size clears the bbk with proper diameter while clearing the wheel well/fenders
Good thread I'll read more later :thumbup:
03-12-2012, 05:39 PM
#72
Sadly, yes I am talking about NRG.
Swoosh have you dyno'ed your car at all ever? I might dyno mine on the next dyno day or something and see where I'm standing.
Also, I took out my throttle body spacer cus it gave an annoying whistle that could be heard through my catless greddy (sigh...), but is it worth having in the car? I can't say I felt much of a difference when it was on or off, but at the moment, my cars been feeling sluggish. Maybe from me just not stepping on the gas as hard or shifting at 2.5k cause of the gas prices
but would like some opinions..
EDIT: Also, I feel like I sound like a douchebag when I read over my posts. Just wanna say I mean no harm and I'm a friendly guy
Swoosh have you dyno'ed your car at all ever? I might dyno mine on the next dyno day or something and see where I'm standing.
Also, I took out my throttle body spacer cus it gave an annoying whistle that could be heard through my catless greddy (sigh...), but is it worth having in the car? I can't say I felt much of a difference when it was on or off, but at the moment, my cars been feeling sluggish. Maybe from me just not stepping on the gas as hard or shifting at 2.5k cause of the gas prices
but would like some opinions..EDIT: Also, I feel like I sound like a douchebag when I read over my posts. Just wanna say I mean no harm and I'm a friendly guy
Last edited by phatrick; 03-12-2012 at 05:49 PM.
03-12-2012, 05:57 PM
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you want my balls hanging from your rear view mirror ??? no honestly, tell me....coz if i spend $$$ on rims, thats what the wifey is gonna do....chop my balls off and Priority mail it to ya !!!
I am thinking of something which will isolate the trunk and seating cabin....this will help me with 2 things:
1> if i turn the AC on, it wont waste on cooling the trunk area
2> keep the sound from coming into the main cabin....
NO SIR....havent done that yet....i will be throwing her on the dyno once my JnR ECU arrives 
about the throttle body spacer, I like it....like it to the point i wont take it off....some people say they dont see any gains, but i do feel the car slightly quicker.....by which i mean improved throttle response !!!
other options you have are:
Bored Throttle body
PnP Manifold and runners
These will help you gain some ponies and improve your throttle response
I didn't think it was too bad when I had the rear seats Out but indeed noise level did go up but it was more of a mild roar for me rather than in your ear.
Also what rpf1 size clears the bbk with proper diameter while clearing the wheel well/fenders
Good thread I'll read more later :thumbup:
Also what rpf1 size clears the bbk with proper diameter while clearing the wheel well/fenders
Good thread I'll read more later :thumbup:
1> if i turn the AC on, it wont waste on cooling the trunk area
2> keep the sound from coming into the main cabin....
Sadly, yes I am talking about NRG.
Swoosh have you dyno'ed your car at all ever? I might dyno mine on the next dyno day or something and see where I'm standing.
Also, I took out my throttle body spacer cus it gave an annoying whistle that could be heard through my catless greddy (sigh...), but is it worth having in the car? I can't say I felt much of a difference when it was on or off, but at the moment, my cars been feeling sluggish. Maybe from me just not stepping on the gas as hard or shifting at 2.5k cause of the gas prices but would like some opinions..
Swoosh have you dyno'ed your car at all ever? I might dyno mine on the next dyno day or something and see where I'm standing.
Also, I took out my throttle body spacer cus it gave an annoying whistle that could be heard through my catless greddy (sigh...), but is it worth having in the car? I can't say I felt much of a difference when it was on or off, but at the moment, my cars been feeling sluggish. Maybe from me just not stepping on the gas as hard or shifting at 2.5k cause of the gas prices
but would like some opinions..about the throttle body spacer, I like it....like it to the point i wont take it off....some people say they dont see any gains, but i do feel the car slightly quicker.....by which i mean improved throttle response !!!
other options you have are:
Bored Throttle body
PnP Manifold and runners
These will help you gain some ponies and improve your throttle response
03-12-2012, 06:20 PM
#74
Considering sending my throttle body and manifold to maxbore. Maybe after wheels/tires in the summer. Definitely wanna port/polish my im & runners.
Also when it comes time for a timing belt near the 90k, I'll be putting in TL-S cams too So hopefully we can help each other out as we go along since we do share similar build plans.
Also when it comes time for a timing belt near the 90k, I'll be putting in TL-S cams too
So hopefully we can help each other out as we go along since we do share similar build plans.
03-12-2012, 07:45 PM
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^^^ sure thing bro....
and the pnp stuff is cheap....for ~350-400 bucks you can get your manifold/runners/TB done....and this gains you ~20HP and ~20TQ.....so if you ask me, it puts pnp right with the PCD's.....
and why TL-S cams ? you wont see much gains....a little bit, yes but not much !!!
and the pnp stuff is cheap....for ~350-400 bucks you can get your manifold/runners/TB done....and this gains you ~20HP and ~20TQ.....so if you ask me, it puts pnp right with the PCD's.....
and why TL-S cams ? you wont see much gains....a little bit, yes but not much !!!
03-12-2012, 07:54 PM
#76
Burning Brakes
phatrick - Did you mean to say that you wouldn't trust your safety to NRG and that NRG makes lower tier versions of everything?
It is not $2000 per seat. Each seat is $639.
Each OMP seat is $639. Here's the prices for my seat project -
639 OMP Grip Seat (PN# HA688H-N)
639 OMP Grip Seat (PN# HA688H-N)
100 Shipping fee ($50 per seat)
134 OMP Seat Bracket (PN# HC732)
134 OMP Seat Bracket (PN# HC732)
309 OMP Racing Harness (PN# DA401E71)
110 OMP Street Harness (PN# DA507071)
100 Grade 8 fasteners and forged eyebolts
---------------------
$2165 Total
03-12-2012, 07:54 PM
#77
They're hollow which should result in marginally less rotational mass. I'm sure theres some gains to be had. Not really looking to spend $700+ on regrinding them and not really looking to push the gains. It's just one of those things I'm doing just cause I'll have the valve train apart. At around $200, I'm sure it'll be worth it. ( My dad is a mechanic, so I can access to everything. So no costs on labor when taking apart the head. )
At around $200, I'm sure it'll be worth it. ( My dad is a mechanic, so I can access to everything. So no costs on labor when taking apart the head. )
03-12-2012, 07:59 PM
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^^^
its 180 a pop....you need 2....so you are looking at 360-400 bucks for the cams....plus you need to upgrade your springs, another 300 bucks there....
so from where i can see you will be spending 700 bucks and getting mere gains or spending 1000 and going all out
my upgrade is gonna look like:
Stage 2 cams ($700) (reground and less lighter, hence less rotational mass)
Springs + Retainers ($500) (lighter, titanium springs, hence weight less)
Stage 2 PnP heads ($1000)
Upgraded Valves ($300)
so looking at ~2500....but yeah you will see ~50 horses from those mods....am trying to get everything done at one place so, i can try to get a deal from them....
its 180 a pop....you need 2....so you are looking at 360-400 bucks for the cams....plus you need to upgrade your springs, another 300 bucks there....
so from where i can see you will be spending 700 bucks and getting mere gains or spending 1000 and going all out
my upgrade is gonna look like:
Stage 2 cams ($700) (reground and less lighter, hence less rotational mass)
Springs + Retainers ($500) (lighter, titanium springs, hence weight less)
Stage 2 PnP heads ($1000)
Upgraded Valves ($300)
so looking at ~2500....but yeah you will see ~50 horses from those mods....am trying to get everything done at one place so, i can try to get a deal from them....
03-13-2012, 07:22 PM
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^^^ Thanks bro....i do have an update....i will be posting some pix up tomorrow and putting my weight loss mods up