Stock TL... How can I make it fast???
02-07-2012, 11:50 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Stock TL... How can I make it fast???
So I have a 2004 Acura TL. It's completely stock. Not one canister or resonator out of place. I was wondering what I would have to do to make this baby fast. I was thinking about at least 350 whp?? I know this isn't gonna be cheap btw, I'm just curious.
Trending Topics
02-08-2012, 06:44 AM
#8
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: The west side of the Potomac River
Posts: 5,375
Received 978 Likes
on
803 Posts
buy a different car.
but like all the other guys said...f/i and put the car on a diet (ie gut it).
all the bolt on's will not even get you close to 300 by a long shot, even with the recent ECU mod that is coming out (there is a thread on that if you researched a bit).
but like all the other guys said...f/i and put the car on a diet (ie gut it).
all the bolt on's will not even get you close to 300 by a long shot, even with the recent ECU mod that is coming out (there is a thread on that if you researched a bit).
The following users liked this post:
ABP_04TL (02-08-2012)
02-08-2012, 07:18 AM
#9
Chris, welcome.
any time you join a forum, be sure to look around to see if your questions have already been answered. Because, they have.
if your goal is at least 350whp, you're looking at Forced Induction.
there is an awesome turbo kit out from J&R Next Level Performance.
either google this, and or search on this very forum.
any time you join a forum, be sure to look around to see if your questions have already been answered. Because, they have.
if your goal is at least 350whp, you're looking at Forced Induction.
there is an awesome turbo kit out from J&R Next Level Performance.
either google this, and or search on this very forum.
02-08-2012, 07:20 AM
#10
Mods, Can another sticky or a current sticky be updated with some of the performance add ons with the approximate yields and current costs?
There are a lot of these threads popping up and honestly searching on them is not going to get you an answer without going through the whole thread. Some are just way too large to even comprehend even if you do. Lots of wrong information and just conversations going on.
There are a lot of these threads popping up and honestly searching on them is not going to get you an answer without going through the whole thread. Some are just way too large to even comprehend even if you do. Lots of wrong information and just conversations going on.
02-08-2012, 07:30 AM
#11
Mods, Can another sticky or a current sticky be updated with some of the performance add ons with the approximate yields and current costs?
There are a lot of these threads popping up and honestly searching on them is not going to get you an answer without going through the whole thread. Some are just way too large to even comprehend even if you do. Lots of wrong information and just conversations going on.
There are a lot of these threads popping up and honestly searching on them is not going to get you an answer without going through the whole thread. Some are just way too large to even comprehend even if you do. Lots of wrong information and just conversations going on.
I went through the whole turbo thread.
if one were serious, they would take the time to read EVERYTHING.
Also, its a lot of work updating the stickies. I've tried so many times, writing an on going performance noobie thread. butt, then I just realized everything is in the forums.
if you would like to help me write something up, the 3G community would LOVE you forever.
02-08-2012, 07:39 AM
#12
i posted this a few years ago on a bmw board. Now that i'm in the process of dumping "old unreliable" and getting a tsx, i thought that i'd post it here too. Over there it generated about 10 pages of discussion:
Post 1:
Given all the "if i do this, will my warranty blow up in my face" and "why'd i get pulled over for my 20000k headlights and my .5% tintz" posts, i thought that i would give my take on modding.
Don't be a lemming. Just because others are doing a particular mod doesn't mean you should.
Decide what advantages a certain mod have for you. Be honest - is it sound, appearance or performance. Remember that very few mods will actually improve performance or real world handling.
Do your research. What disadvantages does this mod have? Will it affect your warranty? What can some of the unintended consequences be? Has bmw (or another manufacturer) specifically warned against this type of mod? What are the legal implications? Do the cops in your area enforce that particular law? Is it unsafe to you or others?
Is the full cost of the mod (parts, labor, increased operating costs) worth the benefit?
And finally
are you mentally and monetarily prepared to pay for both the mod and the consequences of the mod? This includes paying for damage that the dealer refuses to fix under warranty because they believe it was caused by the mod.
Post 2 - after a few pages:
Absolutely correct. Everyone needs to decide if the costs plus the tradeoffs are worth it for you.
take the bbk as an example. By the time it is installed it will have set you back anywhere between $3500 and $4k. It will give you zero (let me repeat that - zero) benefits in day to day driving and, depending on the pads, may sound like a squealing pig. The only benefit (aside from cool painted calipers and possibly slotted rotors) is on the track.
If you never - or only very seldom - track your car then you really need to think about that mod and do a cost/benefit analysis.
You might decide that the cool factor is worth it - perfectly fine - but don't try to convince yourself that you'll get any day to day braking benefits.
The same holds true for most other mods.
The point of this thread is to get you to think about your mods, the benefits, the disadvantages and finally - to be honest with yourself about why you want to do the mod.
Most reasons are fine - improved performance - improved appearance (obviously subjective but you shouldn't care what anyone else thinks) - or just bragging rights.
Some mods can't be justified - those that are dangerous (but might look cool - ask yourself if there is a non - dangerous mod that accomplishes the same thing) and those that negatively affect others.
Let's look at a few examples
dark tint on windshields (and even side windows) may reduce your visibility to the point of being dangerous at night. There have been some guys here that say "the tint is fine, i just roll my window down at night and look out that" - where was that guy when they handed out brains?
if your objective is heat/uv rejection, then you can get the identical (if not better) rejection using a 60% ceramic tint. if you objective is "looking cool" then you might want to reconsider that limo tint for something you can see out of at night. Find a buddy that has that tint and drive his car at night. Ask yourself objectively "is it safe?"
higher kelvin bulbs. We know (objectively) that the hid bulb that gives you the best balance between visibility and low glare is about 4300k. I didn't make that up, there have been a zillion studies on this - both here and europe - we can accept that as a fact for current bulb technology. Going significantly higher will reduce usable visibility and increase glare for oncoming cars so, while bluer bulbs may look cool, they may be dangerous. Is there an alternative?
Whiter angel eye (or angle eye if you're into geometry) bulbs might even out the appearance of the front of your car and may make the headlights look "better" but may have warranty and reliability pitfalls - something that needs to be researched before you do that as an alternative to high kelvin headlamps.
Now that i've beat a dead horse, let me give you a cliff notes version:
Modding a car to personalize it can be a good thing
consider all the consequences and implication of your mod
be prepared to pay for anything your mod breaks
do your research
be honest with yourself about the reasons for doing a mod
a few final bits of advice - don't go into debt for a mod that brings no actual driving performance improvements such as wheels, radios, paint and trim etc. Wait until you have the cash in hand to do those.
Virtually no mod will ever be recouped at resale unless you return the car to stock and sell the mods. The only mods that might make your a bit more desireable are very conservative appearance mods - legal tint in places like florida for example. You won't get more money for your car but it might sell quicker.
Don't cheap out on important things like tires, brakes and maintenance. Although everyone under 25 is invincible, those things could save your life.
Respect the laws that affect others (catless exhausts, high kelvin bulbs etc.)
Post 1:
Given all the "if i do this, will my warranty blow up in my face" and "why'd i get pulled over for my 20000k headlights and my .5% tintz" posts, i thought that i would give my take on modding.
Don't be a lemming. Just because others are doing a particular mod doesn't mean you should.
Decide what advantages a certain mod have for you. Be honest - is it sound, appearance or performance. Remember that very few mods will actually improve performance or real world handling.
Do your research. What disadvantages does this mod have? Will it affect your warranty? What can some of the unintended consequences be? Has bmw (or another manufacturer) specifically warned against this type of mod? What are the legal implications? Do the cops in your area enforce that particular law? Is it unsafe to you or others?
Is the full cost of the mod (parts, labor, increased operating costs) worth the benefit?
And finally
are you mentally and monetarily prepared to pay for both the mod and the consequences of the mod? This includes paying for damage that the dealer refuses to fix under warranty because they believe it was caused by the mod.
Post 2 - after a few pages:
Absolutely correct. Everyone needs to decide if the costs plus the tradeoffs are worth it for you.
take the bbk as an example. By the time it is installed it will have set you back anywhere between $3500 and $4k. It will give you zero (let me repeat that - zero) benefits in day to day driving and, depending on the pads, may sound like a squealing pig. The only benefit (aside from cool painted calipers and possibly slotted rotors) is on the track.
If you never - or only very seldom - track your car then you really need to think about that mod and do a cost/benefit analysis.
You might decide that the cool factor is worth it - perfectly fine - but don't try to convince yourself that you'll get any day to day braking benefits.
The same holds true for most other mods.
The point of this thread is to get you to think about your mods, the benefits, the disadvantages and finally - to be honest with yourself about why you want to do the mod.
Most reasons are fine - improved performance - improved appearance (obviously subjective but you shouldn't care what anyone else thinks) - or just bragging rights.
Some mods can't be justified - those that are dangerous (but might look cool - ask yourself if there is a non - dangerous mod that accomplishes the same thing) and those that negatively affect others.
Let's look at a few examples
dark tint on windshields (and even side windows) may reduce your visibility to the point of being dangerous at night. There have been some guys here that say "the tint is fine, i just roll my window down at night and look out that" - where was that guy when they handed out brains?
if your objective is heat/uv rejection, then you can get the identical (if not better) rejection using a 60% ceramic tint. if you objective is "looking cool" then you might want to reconsider that limo tint for something you can see out of at night. Find a buddy that has that tint and drive his car at night. Ask yourself objectively "is it safe?"
higher kelvin bulbs. We know (objectively) that the hid bulb that gives you the best balance between visibility and low glare is about 4300k. I didn't make that up, there have been a zillion studies on this - both here and europe - we can accept that as a fact for current bulb technology. Going significantly higher will reduce usable visibility and increase glare for oncoming cars so, while bluer bulbs may look cool, they may be dangerous. Is there an alternative?
Whiter angel eye (or angle eye if you're into geometry) bulbs might even out the appearance of the front of your car and may make the headlights look "better" but may have warranty and reliability pitfalls - something that needs to be researched before you do that as an alternative to high kelvin headlamps.
Now that i've beat a dead horse, let me give you a cliff notes version:
Modding a car to personalize it can be a good thing
consider all the consequences and implication of your mod
be prepared to pay for anything your mod breaks
do your research
be honest with yourself about the reasons for doing a mod
a few final bits of advice - don't go into debt for a mod that brings no actual driving performance improvements such as wheels, radios, paint and trim etc. Wait until you have the cash in hand to do those.
Virtually no mod will ever be recouped at resale unless you return the car to stock and sell the mods. The only mods that might make your a bit more desireable are very conservative appearance mods - legal tint in places like florida for example. You won't get more money for your car but it might sell quicker.
Don't cheap out on important things like tires, brakes and maintenance. Although everyone under 25 is invincible, those things could save your life.
Respect the laws that affect others (catless exhausts, high kelvin bulbs etc.)
The following 2 users liked this post by justnspace:
lumyeinjun (02-08-2012),
shlomo84 (02-09-2012)
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (02-08-2012)
The following 2 users liked this post by justnspace:
ABP_04TL (02-08-2012),
SharksBreath (02-08-2012)
02-08-2012, 09:15 AM
#17
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
i love how no matter what that nick guy says in any post in any thread. your response is always the same.turbo done right can and probably will exceed $10k.
if you want to half-ass it and further harm your engine, $7500 will get you there.
02-08-2012, 09:49 AM
#19
If you have a 6MT it's very easy to hit the 10K mark. Turbo kit, clutch, ecu, meth injection, exhaust, gauges, boost control.
Then the other stuff to make it handle, coilovers, wheels, tires, swaybars, bushings.
Then dyno time, alignment shop.
Doesn't include the labor to do all this if you aren't a DIY type.
Then the other stuff to make it handle, coilovers, wheels, tires, swaybars, bushings.
Then dyno time, alignment shop.
Doesn't include the labor to do all this if you aren't a DIY type.
02-08-2012, 10:53 AM
#20
Burning Brakes
I feel people on the 'search' button. If only this forum is only about the 3G TL and not a whole massive acura line. It would make life so much easier. BTW, welcome, you'll hear this alot! 
.
02-08-2012, 12:37 PM
#23
as everyone else here has said, going with the J&R turbo would probably be the only way to get to 350whp. It'll cost you over seven grand to get the turbo in your car, not to mention a few extra grand to get it to run correctly. Also, I hope you have the 6mt because Honda automatics are not like Nissan and BMW automatics; our automatics seriously rob power from the wheels. A stock 6MT type-s runs ~240whp; probably ~300whp with all the available bolt-on power mods (PCD/HFPC, J-pipe, cat-back, underdrive pulley, J&R ecu).
The UA6/UA7 TL is not a muscle car. Don't get me wrong, the car is not slow by any means, but like most Hondas the TL shines in being fun-to-drive. Maybe you could look into suspension modifications to make the car more fun to drive? Progress rsb, firmer shocks and stickier tires are all good options The TL is also track proven (see who's #23 on Willow Springs fastest lap times here. And if you haven't looked it up yet, check out the THR Acura TL at Thunderhill; it's an inspiration to TL enthusiasts. It could also give you some ideas on what mods to look into. If you're looking for a high HP monster i'd consider another vehicle.
I love my type-s and I wouldn't want to buy another car on the market today. I simply love the feel and the image of the car. Of course, I have some power bolt-ons as well; but I wouldn't get my hopes up aiming for 350whp.
Good luck on your search for power though! It's definitely achievable, but I just wanted to put everything in perspective and show you a little bit of what the TL is about
The UA6/UA7 TL is not a muscle car. Don't get me wrong, the car is not slow by any means, but like most Hondas the TL shines in being fun-to-drive. Maybe you could look into suspension modifications to make the car more fun to drive? Progress rsb, firmer shocks and stickier tires are all good options
The TL is also track proven (see who's #23 on Willow Springs fastest lap times here. And if you haven't looked it up yet, check out the THR Acura TL at Thunderhill; it's an inspiration to TL enthusiasts. It could also give you some ideas on what mods to look into. If you're looking for a high HP monster i'd consider another vehicle.I love my type-s and I wouldn't want to buy another car on the market today. I simply love the feel and the image of the car. Of course, I have some power bolt-ons as well; but I wouldn't get my hopes up aiming for 350whp.
Good luck on your search for power though! It's definitely achievable, but I just wanted to put everything in perspective and show you a little bit of what the TL is about
Last edited by lumyeinjun; 02-08-2012 at 12:41 PM.
02-08-2012, 12:41 PM
#24
Racer
350whp won't get you laid though if that's what you're really getting at.
Please do it right and take the time to do it right if you want to make your car into a rocket.
I have a feeling you'll end up ruining the car, just because you came on the forum with such a vague question: "How do I make it fast."
Do your research, don't buy anything for a couple months, let it all soak in, and then re-evaluate if you need a car with 350whp at your age.
College is probably more important.
The following 3 users liked this post by uhohkaitlina:
02-08-2012, 01:48 PM
#25
imo, TLs have already maxxed out the fwd capability in terms of power
unless you plan on nice (read : wears out in 4 days) tires, 350 torque-steering fwhp is only "good" @ 80+mph ... :| js
unless you plan on nice (read : wears out in 4 days) tires, 350 torque-steering fwhp is only "good" @ 80+mph ... :| js
02-08-2012, 01:48 PM
#26
Team Owner
Speed has never been a priority in my TL since I have a fast car already. I made it stop and corner well and stopped right there. I don't like nitrous but for occasional fun a 75 shot is the way I would go. Make sure it has a window switch and all of the safeties, jet it rich, and a 75 shot should give you 75 at the wheels and a solid 100lbs of torque. Otherwise you're looking at the far superior but super expensive turbo setup. There's always weight reduction. Not my choice but it's effective.
In the end, a FWD car is not the best starting point to go fast. If you enjoy modding just to mod, go for it. If you're looking to compete with the big boys, there are other, much better platforms to start with.
In the end, a FWD car is not the best starting point to go fast. If you enjoy modding just to mod, go for it. If you're looking to compete with the big boys, there are other, much better platforms to start with.
02-08-2012, 02:16 PM
#27
Burning Brakes
If going nitrous route on the tl I would definetly look into a doing a custom setup with 6 nozzles one for each cylinder this will ensure proper distribution to each cylinder and research before jumping into this as with any upgrade safety measures has to ne taken bottle warmer ,purge kit ect ...
02-08-2012, 02:23 PM
#28
Team Owner
If going nitrous route on the tl I would definetly look into a doing a custom setup with 6 nozzles one for each cylinder this will ensure proper distribution to each cylinder and research before jumping into this as with any upgrade safety measures has to ne taken bottle warmer ,purge kit ect ...
02-08-2012, 02:33 PM
#29
Burning Brakes
Thanks ihc couldn't agree more we are going to get around to it and even try to offer pre made setups already setup in runners for easy install and fittings to tap into oem fuel system ect ...SO I THINK ITS SAFE TO SAY JANDR NITROUS SETUP FOR TLS COMING SOON AS A PACKAGE WITH ALL NECESSARY FITTINGS ,ECT.
Last edited by pass427; 02-08-2012 at 02:36 PM.
The following users liked this post:
BostonSilverTypeS (02-11-2012)
02-08-2012, 02:34 PM
#30
All motor
Sounds like it's coming from mommy/daddy's pockets.....I'd advise you to start out simple. Do your research first, and I mean do your research first, then decide what you want to do. Start out small. Get an intake/exhaust first, then see how you like it.
300whp can definitely be done NA, but will take a lot of time and money. I/full exhaust/intake manifold/TB/cams/tune should do it.
Agreed. You need at least 400 
300whp can definitely be done NA, but will take a lot of time and money. I/full exhaust/intake manifold/TB/cams/tune should do it.
02-08-2012, 02:46 PM
#31
Team Owner
Thanks ihc couldn't agree more we are going to get around to it and even try to offer pre made setups already setup in runners for easy install and fittings to tap into oem fuel system ect ...SO I THINK ITS SAFE TO SAY JANDR NITROUS SETUP FOR TLS COMING SOON AS A PACKAGE WITH ALL NECESSARY FITTINGS ,ECT.
Any chance of a kit being out this year?
02-08-2012, 03:03 PM
#32
Intermediate
Thread Starter
... I don't know what to reply to first, so let me see if I can answer everyone in a couple sentences...Well it is a 6 speed. Of course I'm going to do my research, that's why I made this post
I'm going to do research on yalls suggestions. It looks like the main idea here is, and correct me if I'm wrong, but to get a turbo and be prepared to spend at least 10k to make sure it's reliable?On a side note... I'm new, I don't know how to get an avatar or a signature haha
02-08-2012, 03:23 PM
#33
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
anyway to lay it down very very simple for you...
For 350whp:
OPTION 1
Get the JnR turbo kit and JnR ECU....Spend $8000 and you will be at 380whp base tuned....you can push the limits but lets start off with the base tune....
OPTION 2
Get the JnR ECU and Comptech SC....Spend $6000 with injectors and exhaust and everything....you will be at 340-350whp base tune....
OPTION 3
Stay NA....Cams/Heads pnp/Fully bolted on/JnR ECU/Every performance mod possible (pulley and pnp manifold and EGR delete)....the whole deal.....spend $5000-6000 and you will be at 340-350whp
OPTION 4
Weight Reduction and some bolt ons....for a comprehensive list of how to reach in the 350whp+ range in this option is linked below....
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/m-010-putting-tl-diet-update-links-post-1-a-610974/
I am on the option 3 boat....hoping to get to 350whp by summer
For 350whp:
OPTION 1
Get the JnR turbo kit and JnR ECU....Spend $8000 and you will be at 380whp base tuned....you can push the limits but lets start off with the base tune....
OPTION 2
Get the JnR ECU and Comptech SC....Spend $6000 with injectors and exhaust and everything....you will be at 340-350whp base tune....
OPTION 3
Stay NA....Cams/Heads pnp/Fully bolted on/JnR ECU/Every performance mod possible (pulley and pnp manifold and EGR delete)....the whole deal.....spend $5000-6000 and you will be at 340-350whp
OPTION 4
Weight Reduction and some bolt ons....for a comprehensive list of how to reach in the 350whp+ range in this option is linked below....
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/m-010-putting-tl-diet-update-links-post-1-a-610974/
I am on the option 3 boat....hoping to get to 350whp by summer
Last edited by Steven Bell; 02-09-2012 at 04:30 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Chris_Slyman (02-09-2012)
02-08-2012, 03:43 PM
#34
OP. 350whp is very realistic with a SC, J&R ECU, and Water/Meth on your 6MT. If you have the $$ go for the J&R Turbo. Besides the power you'll gain from it you don't have to buy PCD's or HFC's. With the SC or even if you stay NA, you'll have to do your whole exhaust starting from the Pre-cats all the way back to be close to the power you want.
02-08-2012, 04:08 PM
#35
350whp won't get you laid though if that's what you're really getting at.
Please do it right and take the time to do it right if you want to make your car into a rocket.
I have a feeling you'll end up ruining the car, just because you came on the forum with such a vague question: "How do I make it fast."
Do your research, don't buy anything for a couple months, let it all soak in, and then re-evaluate if you need a car with 350whp at your age.
College is probably more important.
let me run some game. Hey baby, do you like turbos?
I dont have one, but maybe we can get together and watch some videos of turbos on youtube! let me know. Till then im going to get my hopes up. VERY UP
02-08-2012, 04:15 PM
#36
lol I like this
Looking fast is cheap, being fast is expensive.
I have an 04 TL, love it. Wouldn't spend more then 5 grand on mods for it. Front wheel drive cars aren't ideal for expensive mods, just my opinion. That being said, there is a lot you can do to the car for 5 grand.
My suggestion, save up, buy a new body Skyline. They'll be affordable by 2020 lol
Looking fast is cheap, being fast is expensive.
I have an 04 TL, love it. Wouldn't spend more then 5 grand on mods for it. Front wheel drive cars aren't ideal for expensive mods, just my opinion. That being said, there is a lot you can do to the car for 5 grand.
My suggestion, save up, buy a new body Skyline. They'll be affordable by 2020 lol
Last edited by TL Seth; 02-08-2012 at 04:29 PM.
02-08-2012, 09:21 PM
#37
Racer
Lol, I'm practically married. But thanks for the offer =)
02-08-2012, 10:26 PM
#39
Safety Car
anyway to lay it down very very simple for you...
For 350whp:
OPTION 1
Get the JnR turbo kit and JnR ECU....Spend $8000 and you will be at 380whp base tuned....you can push the limits but lets start off with the base tune....
OPTION 2
Get the JnR ECU and Comptech SC....Spend $6000 with injectors and exhaust and everything....you will be at 340-350whp base tune....
OPTION 3
Stay NA....Cams/Heads pnp/Fully bolted on/JnR ECU/Every performance mod possible (pulley and pnp manifold and EGR delete)....the whole deal.....spend $5000-6000 and you will be at 340-350whp
For 350whp:
OPTION 1
Get the JnR turbo kit and JnR ECU....Spend $8000 and you will be at 380whp base tuned....you can push the limits but lets start off with the base tune....
OPTION 2
Get the JnR ECU and Comptech SC....Spend $6000 with injectors and exhaust and everything....you will be at 340-350whp base tune....
OPTION 3
Stay NA....Cams/Heads pnp/Fully bolted on/JnR ECU/Every performance mod possible (pulley and pnp manifold and EGR delete)....the whole deal.....spend $5000-6000 and you will be at 340-350whp
Wait, let me fix it for you :angryfire
OPTION 4
Weight Reduction. Equal to adding 364 WHP to a TL with normal bolt-ons and cat-back. No ecu, no turbo, no 6MT, and no engine work required. Guaranteed 364 WHP with *no* temperamental tuning required either.
The TL Diet (click here)
Say what ??? "Not my choice....." 
Why you say that
The following users liked this post:
Chris_Slyman (02-23-2012)
02-09-2012, 10:23 AM
#40
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
^^^ Tim...ahahaha my apologies for leaving option 4 out....it was in my mind but i like making people spend money 