shehmir9

so recently my tl died on me, thankfully i knew what the hell i was doing when i took her apart. i found a little oil in my supercharger and some internal problems.

i recently fixed her and took the whole front end apart.

im current building her a intercooler kit along with the versus front bumper and a full tune with the greddy ultimate and the blue. also thinking about installing the unorthodox racing pulley.

i do not have any pictures right now but as soon as more things get on the way i will post up many pictures and let you know how this all comes along. hopefully ill have it all done by my bday with is august 14th

01tl4tl

sounds wild for a TL
For your birthday ask for a day or several at High Performance Driving Schools- aka Track Days-- at local road racing track across America
$250 your car on track with a real race driver in the passenger seat- coaching you deeper and faster into and out of the corners. Usually 5 20-30 minute track sessions and 1.5-2.5 hours of classroom and debriefing after sessions.
Its done in a safe controlled way and is good for every driver--even regular racers show up to get familiar with a new track or test changes to the car- dont worry- they run in their own advanced group

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a plan, and it seems more and more peeps are running the frankenstein emanage rather than twidling with the aem f/ic

Laxplaya11385

funny that you mention the AEM.

i was speaking to a family friend who is certified by AEM in tuning cars using their products. He's owned his own business for the last 12 years, in Las Vegas, where there are a PLETHORA of modified cars. He also has been working with a lot turbos and superchargers during that time (think Supras, RX-7, Civics, S13, S14,Evos, etc.), producing records at the Vegas speedway for "Fastest Honda and Acuras"

I asked about using AEM as a method of tuning a TL, and he immediately said, "don't even bother. AEM SUCKS!"

He then proceeded to explain why, but since my knowledge for tuning is, well, nothing, it all sounded like gibberish to me

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

So eh.... why'd your TL "die" on you?

Stew4HD

What mfg did he recommend then? I see many folks here going with AEM

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

dunno what you mean many folks going with AEM since the only thing we rock made by aem is the cai... they dont make anything else... sigh

bent09

iTrader: (1)

I am curious as well. I remember a month or so back you were talking about taking the ACM off and tuning.

Something go wrong?

Stew4HD

There are many other CAI mfg's out there. Many of you guys use AEM, if AEM isn't the best, what is... that is my question.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

aem=better performing, these other mfg's i've tried already

Stew4HD

I see where you did the comparison between the AEM and Fujita. Of course each MFG claims theirs is the best. My only concern is the noise/whistle during normal driving. I am much more of a cruiser type (mildly agressive at times) but like the quiet of my car vs my truck with CAI and cat-back.

csmeance

AEM probably sucks since it cannot control much, but in the TL, the AEM F/IC is exactly what we need to be controlled. As for the OP, while you have it all apart, why not look into forged internals so you have less moving mass inside, meaning quicker power.

Inaccurate

why'd your TL "die" on you?

Eoanou

Also consider buying the new innovative motor mounts as well, and perhaps the Type-S intake manifold since it is lighter and slightly better flowing.

bent09

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to refresh...

ussi

iTrader: (1)

welcome to the SC club

shehmir9

i really dont know why and how the car died on me. i was leaving the bar one night and i booked it in 2nd and 3rd gear (redline) and i got on to the main road and it just wouldnt go over 3k nor would it do anything in any gear except 1st.

so i pulled over messed with it and what not and it turned back on but later again that night it died with me driving even normal. so i took a wild guess it was internal problems cause the noise it was making sounded like 1) it wasnt getting enough air 2) a knocking sound and 3) running too lean cause of the white smoke coming out my exhaust.

when i got home i took it apart the next day and found oil in my supercharger. cleaned it out and thats where it clicked to me that i have all these parts laying around i need to get around to putting them on and making it run right.

so right now im in the process of building a intercooler kit, perfect dyno tune, replacing the front bumper and adding the crank pulley.

i know that none of you guys have seem pictures of my car cause i havent posted any. but i promise there are many on the way once i get time to load them all. work had me really backed up on everything.

oh and ps - i dont abuse my car and that night all this happend i was just in the mood to feel that SC romp

bent09

iTrader: (1)

Who is doing the fab work and tuning? I am definately interested if legit and in Houston.

Boosted_Brian

Ummmm... If there was white smoke and oil in your SC, a tune and an intercooler are not going to fix your problems. You have a serious problem if oil is getting past the rings. Sounds to me like you either heated up the engine to much or ran lean for an extended period of time. A compression test would be your friend at this time.

EDIT: White smoke is typically an indicator of water. My guess might also be a head gasket. Check your oil and coolent to see if there is a mixture of any kind.

If its a head gasket, you got lucky.

MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

Or attempted a full boost pull at 120+mph....been there done that....it will produce a LOT of smoke for a short while as it spits oil out the top end.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Thank you voice of reason.
I read this in my car (on iphone stuck in traffic... AZ addiction, checking while mobile), and wanted to post exactly this.

You need to find out what happend before you go and do more tune work. Excessive blow by is one thing... 3K rpm limp mode, engine knocking, and "car died", and white smoke are another...

Boosted_Brian

At no time is "smoke" (unless its black) coming out of the tail pipe a good thing. Although in most boosted applications you will see black smoke from rich fuel tables, never should it be "white" or "blue" Blow-by is one thing, but when the car is shutting off, that should be a HUGE red flag.

I ran my RSX at 500+ hp for a year, and it was turbo for 5 years. I have had my share of "oh shits" But never did my car turn off due it anything other other than being rich.

The one thing that I have noticed on the this forum in the short amount of time I have been here, and I dont mean this to bash anyone, but there is limited number of members who actually have tuner/mechanical knowledge past that of a drop/rims/body kit/ and stereo.

F/I in no joke. I would suggest that anyone attempting, or already running F/I to learn a basic knowledge of what it is, how it works, why it works, and what makes things break.

In my opinion, I would NEVER run an e-manage type EMS . It isn't worth the plastic the mother board is made out of. Its a hack, you mind as well run an Apex'i AFC. But I guess with no other options it is what it is.

The TL would really benefit from a true EMS that would allow, Ignition, Vtec, Cam and fuel adjustments.

bent09

iTrader: (1)

When I got my dyno with the new test pipe and j pipe I noticed a small amount of smoke when they shut the car off and was not running rich

I caulked it up to the new test pipe but I am also one of the members that does not have tuner/mechanical knowledge.

Glad to have another member on the board who knows his stuff

Boosted_Brian

New Exhaust parts always smoke, from the in and out side, its simply burning off the oil and residue from production. every time I took my manifold off and put it back on, the manifold would "smoke" its simply the oil from your hands burning off with the heat. Nothing to worry about.

eluzion

Definitely. I would never, ever, use that or the AFC hack as the management system for my car. I don't even know if you can call it a management system. Having full control over your fuel and ignition maps is a must for any F/I application. I remember when people use to run FMU's on boosted setups... those were the days.

Good luck on the rebuild shehmir9. Take some pictures when it's complete!

Boosted_Brian

Yea. not for nothing, I ran my RSX with a hack and AFC. My throttle had two positions, on and off.... partial throttle was none existant. But I was turbo two years before Hondata came out. First running boost RSX in the world woot woot. (Dont be fooled by the RSX that made the cover of Turbo mag in 2002. It was just a front mount. That car never ran. I spoke to the guy LOL) AEM followed suit about a year a half later. However, on a honda, nothing will compare with the function and form of a Hondata EMS for daily driving and everything short of a full out drag car.

Thinking back, I remember all the B-series guys with the FMU's and missing-links. LOL

Back when 300whp would actually win you some races....

csmeance

well the e-manage is the only thing that will work for the TL as of now. It may be a piece of junk in your opinion, but its better than the comptech ACM for tuning. To the OP, the car went into limp mode, I would hook up a scanner and see if it threw any DTC's into why it went into limp mode.

MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

Oh...I wasnt saying that this was HIS problem....that was a small issue I had while I was drag racing a friend up the highway at WOT from a stoplight....from basically 0 to 135mph with it basically floor-boarded the full time. It started to toss oil out the breather onto the exhaust and started smoking like a mutha right between 120 - 130mph...lol. Scared the shit out of me for a minute until I raised the hood and discovered that I just needed to change out from a breather to a catch can system....but no big deal.

I kinda scratched my head and said...WTF....I do this all the damn time and never had THAT happen. Then it dawned on me fairly quickly when the guy behind me was replaying the scenario....that I DONT do that all the time. In a 1/4 mile run....I am generally shutting it down around 99 - 103mph, depending on how its going that day. Sure...I run fast out on the highway every now and then like typical...but not like that and at WOT. And in autocross...it never gets near that fast...lol.

Cleaned it up....never had the issue again.

As for the E-Manage....I tend to agree with you...but with no other current options there really isnt anything else they can use.

shehmir9

when all this happend i wasnt going 120+ nor was i smoking white before. i was actaully running very very rich, nothing but black smoke. my whole rear bumper was covered in black smoke.

i know a tune and intercooler kit will not solve this problem, im also having it all checked out. they found a few piping that were not put in place properly and the main vac pipe wasnt on properly which caused it to lack power/boost.

shehmir9

oh and for those of you who keep on saying you cant use the ultimate for everything, you are wrong.

you DONT need both the blue and the ultimate for tuning. I just used the ultimate to tune my whole car. i also replaced my injectors with type s injectors.

Boosted_Brian

Well this might help us understand a little more. You either tripped the secondary sensor for running rich which threw a CEL (not uncommon) however a limp mode, I have never had that happen. And the vac leak might do the same thing as well as make the car shut off.

Sorry just jump down your throat, but you can see that the symptoms add up to something serious. I would still investigate the white colored smoke that you indicated on your 1st post.

shehmir9

im guessing the car shut off because it flooded, because it turned right back on 30 minutes later but it wasnt giving me the power i had before it shut off.

honestly i have no idea what the real problem was that caused all this mess.

whatever it is, its being fixed and really looked into.

sorry if my post are half ass but im workin alot and dont have much time to get detailed. but everything that has been said are true and it could be the problem. i wont know till i get back to houston in 2 weeks.

csmeance

Well the car shuts off when it incounters too much force to rotate the motor (like in a hydrolock). There could be 3 reasons for this:
1. fuel Flooded the cylinder (doubt this since fuel ignites and would clear)
2. Oil flooded the cylinders (doub this since oil can ignite and theres not much)
3. Loss of oil, the cylinders rub against the walls, creating heat and the motor soon binds together. Then the 30 minute cool time was enough to reduce the heat and make the components contract.

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

you said you just tuned your car with Greddy?? would love to see the results of this... you'd be the first so far..

and if its successful, and your engine doesnt blow up.... share the files to those s/c guys

shehmir9

yeah i just tuned it with the greddy ultimate, it also made all my codes go away that my check engine light was giving me.

i havent driven it yet, but will in bout 2 weeks or less as soon as im back in town. the guys said its running better and doesnt see any problems so far.

as far as the posting goes, i will post the files to members who want it. i will not take any responsibility if anything happens to the members car by using my tuning files.

shehmir9

i bought the greddy blue thinking id need both to tune from what other members had said. now that i dont need it im willing to sell it for $300 obo

still brand new in a box. i also have the program and the connection cable if a member is also needing that to buy.

04accordcpe

iTrader: (3)

wait a minute, did you get the ignition map working with the ultimate?? if not, than you will need the blue for the timing adjustment, or did you just tune the a/f?

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

fixed

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Are you guys buying any of this... ?

shehmir9

look you dont have to believe me, just dont bash on my stuff.