Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

I've now installed both the Brass and Annodized Aluminum bushings. Tai was kind enough to let me exchange the original brass with the newer version.

I will say the newer annodized aluminum bushings are a bit more difficlut to install. I think the annodized coating makes the tolerances a bit tighter. The unfinished brass bushings had a tiny bit of play/slop, whcih made installation a snap.
The newer bushings are more snug, and less forgiving, but result in a tighter overall "link".
The cable has little to no play, so it takes a bit of fotrce to get the bushing installed and lined up on the shifter post.

Feedback is still good, nice, tight crisp shifts. I won't go back.

I snapped some photos. I'll get em posted tonight.

CorSport

Yup, a bit tighter is good.

Thanks for the info.

Tai
CorSport

bTwix

Did you use the supplied rings or the factory ring? Was looking at the one that ships with the kit and was trying to figure out how to get it into the groove. It looks pretty tight. How did you get yours on?

CorSport

The easiest way is to slide one corner of the clip over into the slot, then stick something in one the holes and slide it over.

Tai

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

There are no factory rings, they're just press fit in.
Yep, just start at one end and use a pic to pull the other end until it clicks into place.

sqzbox

Kennedy,

If I'm reading your posts correctly, the brass bushings (2 required) install at the transmission end of the shifter cables and are accessed under the air filter box, thus requiring removal of the air filter box for installation.

No real issue installing the brass bushings other than getting the pin lined up with the cable end and the transmission linkage due to the tighter tolerances (a good thing!) of the new brass bushing.

Do the anodized aluminum bushings (4 required?) install under the shifter cage inside the console requiring the removal of part of the console to access the mount and remove/replace the rubber bushings? Do these bolt through the floor pan???

I'm sure your photos will reveal all. Again, thanks for the posts and being the pioneer. Much appreciated.

bTwix

So got mine installed, but 1st, 3rd, and 5th are so stiff I can barely shift in or out of them. 2nd, 4th, and 6th are very smooth, as is moving around in the neutral gate. Think it's an install issue, maybe not enought grease on the pin? Somethings gotta be binding, any ideas?

bTwix

It was the stock washers. Don't need them. 1st, 3rd, and 5th are still a little stiffer but not by much. Jury's still out on this mod, maybe it takes a little breaking in or takes a little getting used to (it's slowing down my double clutch downshift a little bit). We'll see what it's like with the skunk2 tomorrow.

bTwix

Hit the larger bushing with some WD-40 (and the pivot point too) and put the skunk2 in and everything seems to be in working order.

Shifts are smooth and precise not sticky at all. Definitely recommend this mod, just make sure you don't keep the stock washers and give it a healthy dose of grease.

CorSport

Glad you got it worked out -- yeah the stock washers need to go.

Im willing to make them a bit smaller (to help with clearance), but when we redesigned these we thought the tighter clearance would be an advantage.

THoughts?

Tai
CorSport

Spiritman

Got stuck at work today (Saturday)

But will try to find the time on Sunday. So the tip is just grease-em? No other install tip's?

bTwix

I'd suggest making them a bit smaller. I think I might try the original brass ones you have to see if that gets rid of the binding going from 1st, 3rd, and 5th into the neutral gate. This binding doesn't happen from 2nd, 4th, and 6th into the neutral gate.

The little bit of binding isn't so much an issue for upshifting since I don't double clutch on the upshift. However, when downshifting from 3rd, or 5th I can't flick it into neutral (due to the binding), so I have to pull it into neutral and then actively stop it there due to the force required to pull down (i.e. it the binding scrubs off all the momentum of the flick so you have to continue to apply force until it hits neutral). All this extra effort and timing due to the binding make it slower to double clutch and and requires more concentration.

I can flick it from 2nd, 4th, or 6th into neutral without this binding so double clutch downshifting from 4th to 3rd is fine.

I definitely like the positive feel of the shifts, just have to find a way to get rid of that little bit of binding.

CorSport

It's weird though, as far as I can tell your the only person having the issue -- I wonder if the clips to hold your cables to the tranny are installed backwards? possibly? or the cables are pulled back to far and binding a bit...

If you'd like -- I'll be glad to trade you for a brass set, just PM me...

Tai
CorSport

bTwix

I think it's the cable binding. I'll take a look and see what I can figure out. Will try the brass ones if all else fails.

papiowhisperer

Thanks for the great info, I ordered a set for
my Accord to go with my CT short-throw shifter.

bTwix

My buddy and I disassembled the shifter bushing / cable housing mount today and figured out what was going on.

First, some background. I originally took this to my mechanic to get it installed since I was short on time and it looks like they ended up rushing the job a little. Since they didn't unbolt the shift cable housing mount from the engine block they had to force the bushing off the pin and the shift cable got kinked. Since the shifter was in neutral when they forced it off, it caused the cable to kink at the neutral position. It was the kinked cable having to traveled back through the cable housing when shifting in/out of 1st, 3rd, 5th that caused the binding.

If you force the bushing off while the shifter is in 1st, 3rd, or 5th the cable kink won't have to travel through the cable housing assembly, but the cable will still probably get kinked when you force the cable end off the shift arm.

Unfortunately this means I'm going to have to get a new shift cable installed but the guys at the shop I use are good guys and I expect that they'll take care of this for me without a hassle.

The instructions below add some more detail to those Kennedy already posted.


Step-by-step instructions:

1) Remove the battery (makes the install much easier)

2) (optional) may need to remove the stock airbox, I have a CAI so didn't need to remove it

3) Unbolt the shifter cable housing assembly from the engine block (3 bolts - see pictures below) - this step is key to avoid kinking your shift cable and not having to force the cable end off the shift arm pin.

4) Remove the cotter pin (either cutting it off as Kennedy mentions or using needlenose pliers)

5) *Slide* the cable end off the shifter arm pin with your bare hands (the cable ends are the large brass ring that the bushing fits into.

6) Pop the factory bushing and the *factory washers* out of the cable end.

7) Insert the new bushings into the cable end

8) Apply some grease to the shift arm pin (don't need a whole lot as there's not too much travel accross on the pin itself).

9) *Slide* the cable end back on the shifter arm pin with your bare hands - again with the cable housing mount disconnected from the engine this just slides on with no effort.

10) Use some combination snap ring pliers ($5 at Shuck's Auto) to place the snap ring on the new aluminum bushings

11) Use a pair of needle nose pliers (or your bare hands) to put the new cotter pin in.

12) Reinstall battery and you're done.

Install should take 20-40 minutes. And when you invariably drop a bolt or wrench in the engine, just tap the lower black plastic engine cover to bump it out or a 24" claw retriever.

This is an overview of where the cable housing mount is located and the 3 bolts you need to remove.



Another pic of where the cable housing mount is located.




Overhead pic of two of the bolts



The other bolt to remove the cable housing mount from the engine block



A close up of where the cable housing mount is located




The snap ring pliers for putting the snap ring on the new bushings

Spiritman

Thanks for the info...... Now I am confused. I think I need to reread your post. And check out the pics more. It probably will make sense when I see it...on my car.

Thanks!

bTwix

It will, the pix aren't that great. Basically if you don't detach the cable housing from the engine block you run the risk of bending your shifter cable and putting a kink in it when you pull the cable end off the shift arm on the transmission.

CorSport

So, these fit your accord k24 as well correct? What year and trims would that be?

Tai
CorSport

bTwix

Replaced the shifter cables and everything is tight and smooth. No kinks, no binding, Corsport cable end bushings work great. Highly recommend this mod.


Make sure you detach the cable housing mount from the engine block before you slide the cable ends off the shifter arm so you don't kink your shifter cable when installing these!

Spiritman

Great! What kind of grease did you use? Did you use alot?

bTwix

Don't need to use a lot of grease, just get some anti-seize from your local auto parts store. You can get a small packet size one for a buck or two. There isn't really much friction caused by the bushing. Just apply a thin coat and wipe off the excess.

Originally thought you'd need more grease since I hit it with some wd40 and it helped a little with the cable binding. After I got into it apart I realized it was the cable binding and not the bushings that were causing the friction so you don't really need a lot of grease.

Good luck with the install.

papiowhisperer

My solid, shift-cable bushing set arrived from Kai at Corsport
today and I only had time to install the larger bushing and split ring.
It took me longer than it should have but it was dark and I'm inept.

Anybody with the 2nd gen CL, 4th gen TL or 7th gen Accord
with the sixspeed gearbox/V6 package that is at all interested
in faster, crisper, more positive gear changes should get these
solid bushings.

30 bucks, baby.

This bushing set, only partially installed may represent the
best mod that I have installed an a dollar per driving enjoyment
basis. Actally it's a toss up between the Corsport
solid shift cable bushing set, Nuespeed short throw shifter
and the GM Syncomesh Friction Modified manual transmission oil.

If you're feeling extravagant, spring for all three,
it'll be less than 100 bucks. I promise you'll be stoked.
You will not want to get out of your car.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Exactly... To optimize your shifting fun you need the Comptech SS, Corsport cable bushings, Specialty Formulations MTL-P or GM Syncromech and a Skunk2 weighted shift knob.

ryanmatthewlee

These bushings are great, just installed mine this morning. Wow what a difference they makes, shifts are much more precise and crisp!!

CorSport

Glad to hear everyones liking them.

We truly appreciate the business over here.

We listed them for the TL and the Accord recently, just an fyi, goto the menu on the left, pick shifter bushings and its listed there. Maybe someone can post the link so I dont break any vendor rules.

Thanks everyone,
Tai

papiowhisperer

Nice job, Kai. Best 30 bucks I spent on my car. HERE is the link
to the Corsport page with all the bushings.

RYAN97812

iTrader: (2)

Little late but here is my opinion on the shifter bushings.....

Quality, fit and service ABOVE PAR
Feel, firmness and dollar for dollar and excellent compliment to the comptech short shifter!
I have been driving internal rail shifted transmissions since before i had my license and this brings back the positive feel to a cable shifted trans. Now all we need is a clutch, slave cylinder and master cylinder so that i can powershift the f@ck out of it LOL
Tai- supurb job! Overall install time 22 minutes, should be alot easier on n/a cars as the supercharger definetely impedes access to the bushings. Little tip- loosen the three bolts that hold the cable housing bracket to the transmission a few turns to make it easier to slide the cable end over the corsport bushings.

CorSport

Thanks for the business, the post and the excellent feedback.

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

I just installed them on my 2nd gen CL. The fitment was perfect and it has improved the firmness of the shift engagement. You may see a few more orders from the CL guys next. Thanks.

Spiritman

The more I drive and use the product. The more I like them!! This is THE BEST shifting I have ever had! By far!! There is a definite "CLICK" into and out of gear. Although, it took me alot longer than 22min......


This is on my top 5 mods list!

CorSport

Nice. I wonder if they fit the TL as well -- send me an email with the details of which CL you know it fits, ill list it.

ITL

I might just have to do this when I put on my CAI this weekend.

ITL

just ordered

CorSport

Got it, it will ship today.

Tai

ITL

Grabbed them out of my mailbox Saturnday morning. After Warren803 come over to get his PIE and SS installed, I installed them on my car Saturday afternoon while installing the AEM CAI that dan.....k brought over. Warren, you HAVE to order these, asap. You too, dan....k

THESE ARE A MUST FOR THE SHORT SHIFT KIT! Excellent product and such a simple mod.


I was skeptical at first, but decided to give it a shot after reading this thread. A while back, I installed the Comptech SS kit and switched to the GM Syncromesh MTF. While providing a huge reduction in throw (I measured a 40% difference), the short shift kit certainly adds a bit of notchiness to the feel. So much, in fact, that the 3rd gear issues were a bit more pronounced, nothing terrible, just noticeable. I do have to admit that I've missed third a few times with the SS- just plain nasty.

The best way to describe it is this: These bushings bring back the silky smooth feeling of the stock setup. The 3rd gear resistance is completely gone and shifts are much more positive. I am shifting faster and not worrying about grinding up third whatsoever

Now, if we could just get an aftermarket clutch/pressure plate combo made for this tranny. Tai, can you do anything about this?




The only trouble I had was with the clip for the larger bushing. Since I don't own any snap ring pliers, I used to pair of regular pliers to stretch the ring and pop it over the collar, all while trying not to move the bushing from the collar. It was a pain, but I was determined and finally got it after about 8 tries. Thanks for such a great product, Tai.

ITL

Thought an extra pic might help...too bad Flickr won't host this any larger for me.

A. Small OEM bushing to be replaced
B. Large OEM bushing to be replaced
C. One of three (other two not pictured) bolts holding the cable housing bracket.

aznbo187

iTrader: (1)

Nice write up and pics!

Spiritman

Now, if we could just get an aftermarket clutch/pressure plate combo made for this tranny. Tai, can you do anything about this?



Take a look at this.......
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...7&goto=newpost

ITL

Thanks for the link. Hope someone feels like being the guinea pig for their clutch kits.

Tai, I believe someone mentioned the possibility of replacing another piece in the shifter assembly. What are your thoughts on this?