S/C tune gone bad
05-19-2010, 06:34 PM
#41
Start with what you know works. Yank the HBP and just throw the stock sized pulley just so you can start with that. ok im sorry but you are in CALI.... performance shops should be about on every corner like 7-11's are over here.
FIND A MORE EXPERIENCED TUNER...who gives a shit if he is your boy or a friend because if you blow your engine im sure he wont replace it.
FIND A MORE EXPERIENCED TUNER...who gives a shit if he is your boy or a friend because if you blow your engine im sure he wont replace it.
05-19-2010, 06:40 PM
#42
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heres a a/f graph of one of the runs i had on the dyno
once the car is running it seems like everything runs fine. no more surging or anything of that nature. now it just has a real hard time starting up and i still have to find out why i'm not hitting higher boost.
once the car is running it seems like everything runs fine. no more surging or anything of that nature. now it just has a real hard time starting up and i still have to find out why i'm not hitting higher boost.
05-19-2010, 06:45 PM
#43
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Start with what you know works. Yank the HBP and just throw the stock sized pulley just so you can start with that. ok im sorry but you are in CALI.... performance shops should be about on every corner like 7-11's are over here.
FIND A MORE EXPERIENCED TUNER...who gives a shit if he is your boy or a friend because if you blow your engine im sure he wont replace it.
FIND A MORE EXPERIENCED TUNER...who gives a shit if he is your boy or a friend because if you blow your engine im sure he wont replace it.
it seems like the next step i would probably take is putting back on the stock sized pulley and belt. get it retuned and see what happens from there.
thanks for all the input guys!
05-19-2010, 06:55 PM
#44
Holy crap... unless I'm mis-interpetting your dyno chart, you better not do anymore dyno's or high RPM runs until you get the A/F worked out... that's a recipe for a blown engine.
Not sure why the A/F takes a steep climb after 6700 RPM. Is that because of the rev limiter???
My CTSC install is the standard 4LBS kit and the A/F never got above 12.5/1 in the high RPM's on the dyno. I had Shad Huntley at Driving Ambition verify my install. He found a few issues and fixed them quickly.
Not sure why the A/F takes a steep climb after 6700 RPM. Is that because of the rev limiter???
My CTSC install is the standard 4LBS kit and the A/F never got above 12.5/1 in the high RPM's on the dyno. I had Shad Huntley at Driving Ambition verify my install. He found a few issues and fixed them quickly.
Last edited by NSX-Tuner; 05-19-2010 at 07:00 PM.
05-19-2010, 07:35 PM
#47
Former Whyner
Holy crap... unless I'm mis-interpetting your dyno chart, you better not do anymore dyno's or high RPM runs until you get the A/F worked out... that's a recipe for a blown engine.
Not sure why the A/F takes a steep climb after 6700 RPM. Is that because of the rev limiter???
My CTSC install is the standard 4LBS kit and the A/F never got above 12.5/1 in the high RPM's on the dyno. I had Shad Huntley at Driving Ambition verify my install. He found a few issues and fixed them quickly.
Not sure why the A/F takes a steep climb after 6700 RPM. Is that because of the rev limiter???
My CTSC install is the standard 4LBS kit and the A/F never got above 12.5/1 in the high RPM's on the dyno. I had Shad Huntley at Driving Ambition verify my install. He found a few issues and fixed them quickly.
12.5 is good but 11's are better IMO
05-19-2010, 07:36 PM
#48
Former Whyner
05-19-2010, 07:38 PM
#49
Team Owner
If I'm reading it right and that says 11.8, it's a very safe AF ratio, right about where you want to be for long term reliability but not for max power. You have a few more hp sitting in the tune.
If this really is the HBP, it's not going to be any worse than the stock pulley since you're running stock boost.
Have you confirmed the HBP is supposed to be 3"?
Do you happen to have a graph of the boost? It's important to know if it comes in at the right rpm and if it holds to redline or falls off.
If this really is the HBP, it's not going to be any worse than the stock pulley since you're running stock boost.
Have you confirmed the HBP is supposed to be 3"?
Do you happen to have a graph of the boost? It's important to know if it comes in at the right rpm and if it holds to redline or falls off.
05-20-2010, 02:14 AM
#50
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high boost pullies are 3'' or 3.15''. Could you take a picture of the bypass actuator area? maybe something is pressing down on the lever and not allowing the bypass valve to open. If something were to hold it down it could be "choking" the blower and preventing it from building higher boost.
05-20-2010, 03:13 AM
#51
Former Whyner
high boost pullies are 3'' or 3.15''. Could you take a picture of the bypass actuator area? maybe something is pressing down on the lever and not allowing the bypass valve to open. If something were to hold it down it could be "choking" the blower and preventing it from building higher boost.
05-21-2010, 04:09 PM
#52
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If I'm reading it right and that says 11.8, it's a very safe AF ratio, right about where you want to be for long term reliability but not for max power. You have a few more hp sitting in the tune.
If this really is the HBP, it's not going to be any worse than the stock pulley since you're running stock boost.
Have you confirmed the HBP is supposed to be 3"?
Do you happen to have a graph of the boost? It's important to know if it comes in at the right rpm and if it holds to redline or falls off.
If this really is the HBP, it's not going to be any worse than the stock pulley since you're running stock boost.
Have you confirmed the HBP is supposed to be 3"?
Do you happen to have a graph of the boost? It's important to know if it comes in at the right rpm and if it holds to redline or falls off.
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