Esanchez8701

Guys been doing some research on Royal purple, which i currently run in my engine, but i found this today please if any of you tried this let me know your experience. Thanks.





Royal Purple HPS Series motor oil is specifically formulated to maximize performance and meet the demands of high performance and modified engines. HPS is recommended for vehicles no longer under manufacturer warranty and for those seeking a higher level of performance and protection.
This unique blend enables HPS to outperform leading synthetics and conventional lubricants for both gasoline and diesel engines. Royal Purple’s HPS is fortified with a high level of zinc/phosphorus anti-wear additive and Royal Purple’s proprietary Synerlec® additive technology. Available viscosities include: 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40 and 20W-50.


Royal Purple HPS Series of motor oil responds to increased pressure with increased viscosity. It’s advanced additive technologies, such as Synerlec, improves the condition of metal-to-metal contact under severe conditions for greater protection




Performance Advantages


Maximum wear protection

Exceptionally high film strength for dramatic reductions in engine wear and reduced engine heat to extend the life of your engine
Improved performance

Improved sealing between the piston ring and cylinder wall maximizes horsepower and torque and optimizes fuel economy
Better efficiency

Exceptional oxidation stability extends oil life and allows for more miles driven between oil changes saving you time, money and reducing the impact on the environment
Cleans

Advanced synthetic solvency reduces engine deposits and keeps engines clean
Advanced protection

Protects valve trains using roller or flat tappet lifters that require added protection due to high lift/ high ramp rate camshafts
Superior corrosion protection

Provides superior corrosion protection
For vehicles under warranty, Royal Purple recommends its API-licensed oils available at retailers nationwide.

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

I use RP as well. I've never used this stuff though. If they're claiming it's better then I wonder why it's not API licensed.

Esanchez8701

Good Point, but maybe thats why they say its recommended to those not under warranty, then the question arises one more time why claim its better then the previous version of RP, better film, increased protection ?!?! It sounds good to me, though i am still going to buy this oil as it seems no one really has this in their TL yet. It should still be a good choice as its not a race oil type. I dont see the harm here. It claims it also makes the bearing smooth rather then scuffed like the leading synthetic oil blends. Check the site out and let me know what you think, worth it or not

also noob question lol what is the meaning of API licensed ? Im guessing its to save their ass just incase something breaks down and its one of those dont say I didnt told you so.

Esanchez8701

Figure i add some more info I found from the RP site regarding the difference between the RP API licensed oil and HPS oil.


Royal Purple’s API-licensed* engine oils are formulated specifically to meet current American Petroleum Institute (API), International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC), and Association des Constructeurs Européens d’Automobiles (ACEA) specifications for new vehicle warranties. Over the last several years, these specifications have become increasingly stringent on certain additives, particularly those commonly used for anti-wear. As such, the new warranty restrictions aren’t the best solution for consumers that have modified their vehicles or those simply looking for the greatest performance.
HPS is formulated with these consumers in mind and includes a dramatically enhanced anti-wear package. HPS is also the choice for those seeking to maximize horsepower and torque, while reducing wear, heat and fuel consumption. HPS is the most robust engine oil Royal Purple makes for non-racing applications.
*The API website lists all API-Licensed motor oils

Esanchez8701

Ok hands down by far after reading this im def. getting the 5W-20 RP HPS oil guys, ill be getting this oil next week. Ill update when I run this oil in my TL. Ill do some serious testing.

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good. Let us know how it goes. I doubt you'll see a night and day difference but it's worth a try. Heck, I havne't noticed much of a difference going from $2 dyno oil to $8 RP as far as performance goes. I only did it because I had a coupon from Oreiley that brought it down to around $5 per qt. I'll probably stick with it just because my MPG's have seemed to have consistantly increased by about 2-3 per fillup. I don't know if this is from the oil or other factors but figured I'd give it 6 months to see what happens.

I think the API thing is a stringent requirement where certain additives have to be used or properties met in order for the oil to be certified. It sounds like this oil might use different additives that are actually better, but might not be the same ones that are required. It sounds like it can only be better. I wouldn't worry about the non-API rating in this case.

Esanchez8701

Same here, and will do !!!

TrustinHFDJ

What is the mileage on your TL if you do not mind me asking?

Esanchez8701

55k

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

For the price, I'd just go with Redline instead. Not sure about the new RP, but the old RP wasn't great whatsoever. I don't even think it was a Full Synthetic. Redline is more known and reputable with Acurazine so I would go with that and a RP filter.

pohljm

Snake oil!

Esanchez8701

I like the RP oil im using its not bad at all and why not try the Rp HPS its got better goodies then the previous version im running in my engine. I also use a K&N HP 1010 oil filter there pretty good, though i will prob get a redline oil filter with the RP oil. Once i will try out the redline oil after i try the HPS then which ever i find better I will stick with. I have redline in my transmission FTW.

pohljm

How are you determining which oil is better? Are you doing analysis?

Esanchez8701

Ive used, Penzoil, Mobile 1, AMS, Castrol syntec and castrol edge. Now using RP I feel a bit more performance with this oil, im not doing an offical analysis. This is from my personal experience. With The RP HPS if you read above it will tell you the additives it contains in the oil. Thats why Im willing to give it a shot. I like to keep my ride at top notch, and I also go with my own experience as each owner has his/her preference on what oil to use in their engine. All synthetics do one thing which is lube up the valves, and clean away the deposits left from other oils. Being im always using synthetic not much to clean. but its the additives in which make the oil perform better and last longer so you can go longer between change intervals.

pohljm

Yes its really only about extending your change interval. There is no way that your going to perceive a difference in performance with your butt dyno between any of the oils you mentioned. Or a real Dyno for that matter.

BostonSilverTypeS

Royal Purple is good stuff, I used to run it in my Integra and yes they are fully synthetic.....I would try this stuff if wasnt so expensive...I can get Mobil1 cheap thru where I work, but nothing wrong with Royal Purple in my book!

TrustinHFDJ

Dope 55,000 is great mileage, is your motor fully built? What mods do you have on your car?

Esanchez8701

Sir, im no dope unless that was a typo then disregard my defense mechanism. No serious mods, just a cold air intake and silencer removal and mid rear muffler removed. Tranny fluid changed out to redline D4. I wish my motor was fully built but as far as Im concerned RP is good stuff and yes Im willing to spend the extra buck or two for the new HPS formula. Im getting it off ebay 6 quarts for 60 bucks not too bad. Thanks and have a great day !

TrustinHFDJ

Dope as in good, having 55k. lol. I dont know personally I think it is a little much my friend, your oil is only to ensure HP maintains; which is all dandy or I cannot see why else your using it, temp? but I just dont know about going that far for that price unless you're flooring all the time. I get 6 quarts of mobil 1 for 25, if you want you could do a 2500 mi oil change; and save yourself $10 and still maintain such horsepower.

Are you seeing superior performance when the oil is extremely hot?

I am just trying to get the sense of why you are using High Performance Street or any RP product when your oil isn't taking a beating.

I hate cars

I could tell from the literature when they said it's specifically for out of warranty cars it would have higher levels of ZDDP and it does. This is a good thing. They can't get the API SM rating due to the ZDDP levels. Higher ZDDP is a good thing, don't worry about the API approval, they're more interested in CAFE compliance than engine wear. Why the reduced levels of ZDDP? Catalytic converters and the preparation for the newer higher efficiency converters. The catch is if the engine does not burn oil, you don't have to worry about the Zinc and phosphorus contaminating your converters. I've been running an oil for 80,000 or my 108,000 miles with high levels of ZDDP, never an issue with converters and it's really not an issue with the type of converters run on the TL.

I was not aware that Redline made a filter. RP is about the best filter out there. What do you like about the RP oil? How are you going to qualify which oil is better? How do you determine the K&N filter is good?

Many oils tell you the additives. What you're not realizing is RP does not tell you the base oil. "Synthetic" is a huge window and can be anything from a dino grp III oil to a synthetic grp IV PAO to a synthetic ester POE oil.

Any modern oil will keep the engine in good shape. What qualifies your "experience"?
All oils "lube the valves" lol. The valve stems and guides of course, not the valve face.
What do you consider performing better? If it's power, you will never feel a difference in two oils of the same weight no matter what the chemistry or base oil. You would not be able to feel a difference in a 5w-20 to a 15w-40 either.

Additives are important but the base oil is extremely important as well.

Any synthetic oil can go plenty long between changes. But you still have the contaminate load to deal with. The oil filter does not filter out fuel or water or anything smaller than about 20 microns including silicone. The main reason for oil changes is to dump the contaminate load, otherwise you could dump in a new additive pack (seriously, it exists) every 10,000 miles as long as it's not shearing or oxidizing and keep the oil topped off. I don't think of keeping the engine running top notch and stretching drain intervals in the same thought usually.

What I'm getting at here is you're qualifying what makes a great oil based on emotion. I could name off many convincing reasons why Redline oil with a RP filter is far superior to most other choices based on data and facts but I've done that way too many times already. When you tear down several race engines run on RP you would have a hard time running it even in a 258hp TL. There are several very large advantages to running an ester oil, none of which are going to show themselves in the form of more power on the butt dyno.

My point is not to be a jerk but it seems like you're putting a different oil with each oil change. You can do that with no major problems but there can be competing chemistries and in order to fully realize the benefits they need to form a layer (such as ZDDP) on metal surfaces instead of being stripped off at each oil change with a different anti-wear additive.

I hate cars

The generic answer is a better add pack and better base oil which will give less deposits, less shearing, less oxidation, less PCV mess and oil getting past the rings, and better wear resistance.

Many of the things a high performance oil gives you might be mandatory on a high hp engine but will still benefit any engine. You might be wasting money on the expensive oil since the engine will likely outlast the car but it will be in good shape when it goes to the junkyard lol.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Do you seriously think high quality synthetics aren't beneficial if it's not "taking a beating"? It doesn't matter if you putt around at 2k all day or 7k, an engine run on a high quality synthetic with strong detergency properties is going to be cleaner and show less wear than one that's run on lesser oils. I'm not necessarily defending RP because I think it's over-hyped and slightly over-priced, but it probably still has some benefits over the regular version of Mobil 1, which isn't even a true synthetic.

Esanchez8701

Trustin my appologies thank you buddy, I notice the performance band lasts longer with the RP oil rather then when I used castrol edge with the titanium additive. The oil lasts longer and i dont feel the loss of performance. I just want to try the New HPS to see what it will do for me, if my car has even the slightest performance kick meaning maintaining power all the time then ill stick with it, but if i find that its not performing well and it breaks down quicker then what im using now which i dont believe will happen then ill stick with my reg RP synthetic formula. Its always good to try out new stuff especially if they state the additives will help not harm the engines performance. Yes I like to floor it from time to time, and I love taking care of this car.

Esanchez8701

[quote=I hate cars;13867983]I could tell from the literature when they said it's specifically for out of warranty cars it would have higher levels of ZDDP and it does. This is a good thing. They can't get the API SM rating due to the ZDDP levels. Higher ZDDP is a good thing, don't worry about the API approval, they're more interested in CAFE compliance than engine wear. Why the reduced levels of ZDDP? Catalytic converters and the preparation for the newer higher efficiency converters. The catch is if the engine does not burn oil, you don't have to worry about the Zinc and phosphorus contaminating your converters. I've been running an oil for 80,000 or my 108,000 miles with high levels of ZDDP, never an issue with converters and it's really not an issue with the type of converters run on the TL.



I was not aware that Redline made a filter. RP is about the best filter out there. What do you like about the RP oil? How are you going to qualify which oil is better? How do you determine the K&N filter is good?


Hello I hate Cars, as i like reading your posts and im learning quite a bit from the acurazine forum. I determine by change interval and see how long the oil lasts. So far RP is by far the best I have used in my car. As I told Trustin I like to floor it time to time. I want to make sure the oil in my crank case is the best or one of the best, if it costs 9 bucks a quart in the end its worth it in my opinion. Yes synthetic is a huge window and they say once you go synthetic never go back. I just want the best for my car, just as i always use sunoco gas Ultra 93 octane, my car has been performing at its peak constantly. I love my car and im sure you guys do too. Thats why Im willing to give the HPS a try and see if there might be a difference. Ill be the guinea pig here and ill let you know the results. Buying the oil this friday and will have it done next week.



Also guys i want to say thank you for giving me even more knowledge I really appreciate your opinions and facts as I will not bash you or be an asshole. This is one bond in which we share as TL owners. It be cool to ride with an acura bud near me but unfortunatley no around me. I can talk about cars all day lol

Esanchez8701

Think you hit the nail with the hammer on this one

Esanchez8701

Just got a price quote from car quest auto parts at $8.75 a quart so a grand total of 56 bucks for 6 quarts that includes the tax picking up friday and oil will be changed this sat you guys know im happy

Esanchez8701

Alright guys so i got the oil in on Friday and i have to say i feel an imrovement when accelerating, not a huge difference but enough to stick with this oil and im def thinking its a pretty damn good oil. Now we have to see with time if it will keep its performance. I also changed my sparks this sat, woot woot NGK all the way !

I hate cars

You have got to stop with this stuff. It's placebo effect at best. There's no way you can feel a difference. In a 3,500lb car you need about 35hp to feel a difference. At best and I mean absolute best you could possibly get 1-2hp from an oil and that's very unlikely in an oil of the same weight. The oil's job is to clean, lube and reduce wear, cool certain areas, etc. Find an oil that does that well and you might have a winner.

Esanchez8701

Its very possible for this oil since its a tad bit better with the additives, its smoother and i feel a tiny bit of a difference while acclerating from 0 to 40 lets say. I dont think i got an additional horsepower increase at all, Its just smoother and the car became a little more peppy thats all im saying here. Im just providing my feedback with the oil, Just in case someone else might want to try the RP HPS 5W-20 out. i do thank you for the knowledge though and i do agree with you (I hate cars) in some ways. yes the job is to clean, lube and reduce wear, but with a very good oil you'd feel a slight difference in the engine. Again im not saying i gained any horse power out of this oil. Thanks again

TrustinHFDJ

Long story short, this was my point as well which is why I was trying to see why you are switching to HPS, in addition trying to save you a bit of cash at the same time because you really wont really be able to feel much of a difference. Any fresh oil will make your car feel faster because of the return of all the horses, I like to see how an oil is functioning at 4k mi into the change.

If you could I would really like an update on oil life, performance on the overall change when you are done.

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by losiglow
Thats why Im willing to give it a shot. I like to keep my ride at top notch, and I also go with my own experience as each owner has his/her preference on what oil to use in their engine.


Quote:
Originally Posted by losiglow
All synthetics do one thing which is lube up the valves, and clean away the deposits left from other oils.


Quote:
Originally Posted by losiglow
Being im always using synthetic not much to clean. but its the additives in which make the oil perform better and last longer so you can go longer between change intervals.

These were all quotes by Esanchez8701, not me

Esanchez8701

lol damn must be a system error,

Trustin I will update you as time goes on with this oil running in my engine. U say 4k u want an update thats what ill do buddy.

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

I'd be interested as well.

I've always been very skeptical of the claims of differences between motor oils. I believe that much of it is simply marketing. I've used so many different oils and have never noticed a difference in power or mileage. Even the change to synthetic was unnoticeable. If the difference existed, it wasn't noticeable to me with a butt dyno or the numbers at the pump. When I tried out RP, I didn't notice any power increase. However, for some reason I've jumped 2mpg's. I thought this was a fluke, but it's been 3000 miles now, with resetting the mid at each 1000 miles and it's been consistent. I'm still skeptical that maybe it's a seasonal thing but that's the only variable that's changed. My trip to work, mods, driving style, oil weight, etc. have all stayed the same. I wonder if RP is a thinner oil at the same weight (which is sort of a contridiction) and thus I'm only getting better mileage because I'm using a lower weight oil. Dunno.

On my next change in the fall I'll try RP again going into winter. If I notice the same thing during the winter then I'm converted. After that, I'd be interested to see your review on this HPS stuff. Wouldn't mind giving it a try.

I hate cars

This thread is about attempting to find out which oil is better by driving impressions, butt dyno, smoothness, etc. It's 100% subjective and I hate to say it but completely irrelevant.

I can understand even a UOA to at least see the additives remaining over time, oxidation, shearing, etc. I can see looking at cleanliness, even looking through the oil fill hole to get an idea if one oil cleaned after the other which is still not a good test. Noise is one of the only things that one oil can effect over the other and I see no mention of it here.

But in here, there's not a single piece of valuable info. The car does not lose power over an oil change interval. It does not run rougher the longer the oil is in the car. You do not gain power from an oil change or from swapping brands.

How are you determining wear?

How are you determining which oil cleans the best?

How are you determining which oil makes the most power when the butt dyno will not pick up less than a 30hp difference and oil can only be responsible for 1-2hp at most?

In reality you can run a $.99 oil and a $10 oil and you're not going to feel a bit of difference. The more expensive oils reduce wear, hold up a little longer if you're into extended drain intervals, won't oxidize or shear as easily and usually flow better in the cold and thin out less in the heat. Most importantly to me, they tend to have a higher HTHS figure for the same viscosity which directly relates to wear. They usually have less viscosity index improvers. VIIs by the way are terrible for wear protection and they help create sludge but actually boost hp and mpg by giving up the wear protection and shearing under load. None of these qualities are measurable by driving the car and seat of the pants feel other than maybe noise and even that can become quite subjective when you use a new oil and you want the engine to sound quieter. You can make the argument that an engine makes LESS power on fresh oil but again, any differences are immeasurable by any of us.

TrustinHFDJ

What your saying makes perfect sense I hate cars, but I cannot agree with anything beyond the fact your motor is still protected. As you countiously heat and cool your oil, it starts to lose its lubication properties which begins to affect the horsepower, in a state function sense, not that your gaining actual hp; rather bringing your engine back back to it's fullest potential. I mean I do not know if that is really an issue, the smoother things slide the more motion can occur while protecting your motor. I am not trying to teach you, you must know a lot more than me, but I am just saying through personal experience. I have maintained all my vehicles, all honda co, on conventional oil since day one maintaining 3k intervals plus topping off every 500 mi. All have passed 250k and have never rebuilt any motor on conventional only. Sold still running. "that's what honda's are known for..."

All I am saying the way you drive should dictate how you maintain your oil change intervals, depending which oil you choose use.

With this oil, it is meant to maintain lubrication to the fullest. original RP is not generally recommended for street motors. Which is why I can see why they made HPS; you probably disagree, but I respect your opinion. I fully believe in it, and I really wish to see results from MrSanchez, if the product isn't satisfactory I will stick to my oil. We got castrol commericials on every other day about how it "maintains horsepower XX% longer.", so this product should have premium longevity

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

I've seen an independent dyno test on an older N/A 4 cyl. Civic and it picked up ~ 2whp on RP and I think 2.5 on Eneos, up from a baseline of 132 whp. I could see a TL picking up 3 whp on a true synthetic, but as you stated, nobody's going to feel that seat of the pants. It's psychological justification for spending a lot of money on oil, which isn't necessary, because it is good for your car. It's kind of like me spending 8 hours washing, claying, compounding, polishing and sealing my paint yesterday. I swear my car's quicker and it even handles better today.

I hate cars

An oil lubricates the same from day one as when it has 5,000 miles on it. You don't lose performance over the OCI. If lubrication was such a problem that you were losing 30hp by the time you changed the oil, the amount of friction required to lose 30hp would mean replacing the engine every 20,000 miles. You're changing the oil to get rid of all of the crap that accumulates from combustion blowby and because the TBN number is going down meaning it becomes more acidic over time. This has no effect on lubrication or power but it can mean the acids causing all kinds of trouble in the engine.

Ever wonder why we change the engine oil every 5,000 miles or round about there and the transmission every 20-60,000 miles? The base oils aren't that different between engine and transmission, the main difference is in the additive packs. The transmission does not have combustion going on, contaminating the oil but the engine does. The transmission does not have to worry about fuel dilution, silicone, acids, water, and all of the other byproducts of combustion that get past the rings.

I hate cars

That's exactly right. 2-3hp is the max you will see and that's stretching it.

TrustinHFDJ

Maybe it isn't HP that is actually the variable, possibly torque? I may be going at this all wrong, but what your saying makes sense; but personal experience overrides that. I notice a significant difference in function on my 4 cylinder.

Is torque a more reasonable loss? because something must be happening for the car not to accelerate as fast. Beyond that, even with topping off the fluids constantly, as the oil reaches 4000 mi even the motor begins to rattle a lot more. As soon as fresh oil is introduced the motor it makes it a lot less shakey. Is that delivering/distributing the power better? so that's why I "feel" a difference.

Sorry for the ongoing issue, but just trying to get an understanding of what is truly occurring

I hate cars

If the engine starts making noises by 4,000 miles, you either need to use a shorter change interval or use a better oil. That's not a good thing. The oil might be shearing or thinning the oil via fuel dilution or from working it hard. It should not change in sound over the OCI.

If you were to put your car on a dyno right before you change the oil and dyno it again after, there's going to be no difference in hp. I literally feel like my car runs better after a car wash..... seriously. Just got the windshield replaced as it's been cracked for a year and it feels like it runs better. It's just the placebo effect. No oil can give you enough additional power that you can feel and especially since you're likely using the same brand of oil that you're draining out. You can time a 0-60 or even better a 0-100mph run on the same day before and after to verify.