Project Water Methanol Injection
06-28-2010, 04:43 AM
#1
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Project Water Methanol Injection
I been reading up on it and it seem to have a really positive affect on the car.
1. increase Oct levels by 10-20 points so 93 becomes ~103-113 OCT
2. lower intake charge temperature, cooler air = denser o2 - more power.
3. Methanol cleans out the intake and carbon build up since it is a good cleaner and that y it is ran using 49 meth to 51 water concentration because 100% meth is corrosive.
So I was wondering has anyone ran it on their tl? Any noticeable gain? did you have to turn it or oem ecu was okay with it.
So looking for some opinion/ facts
1. increase Oct levels by 10-20 points so 93 becomes ~103-113 OCT
2. lower intake charge temperature, cooler air = denser o2 - more power.
3. Methanol cleans out the intake and carbon build up since it is a good cleaner and that y it is ran using 49 meth to 51 water concentration because 100% meth is corrosive.
So I was wondering has anyone ran it on their tl? Any noticeable gain? did you have to turn it or oem ecu was okay with it.
So looking for some opinion/ facts
06-28-2010, 08:29 AM
#3
Safety Car
Be careful with your reading. You are drawing a few (not all) wrong conclusions.
Be careful with the amount of temp reduction that you read from the internet. The huge percentage of people running WMI (Water/methanol Injection) are turbocharged. The turbo intake temp is very hot when under boost. It is very easy to get large temp reductions when w/m (water/methanol) is injected into this compressed hot air. However, there is much less temp reduction when w/m is injected into a n/a intake.
The w/m is not a sure way to increase HP. On the contrary, there is a much greater change that you will loss power in a n/a application. Too much water injected will actually "put out the fire" in the engine. Will WMI help you in your case? Good question. All cars and individual setups/tunes are different. WMI is a very sensitive type of tuning. The only way to know is either try it yourself or ask if others with your same car/setup have had any positive results. So you are doing the right thing by posting your question. Unfortunately, I think that you are not going to receive any replies of people that have actually did WMI on a n/a TL. I am doing WMI on my n/a TL, but it will be about two months before I can give you any feedback.
And, if you do try the WMI, I recommend that you get a performance meter to evaluate your results. The amount of overall mixture and/or the ratio of methanol to water will need to be experimented with to see what works best on *your* car. In my opinion, the only way to evaluate what volume/ratio works best for you is with a performance meter. The Butt Dyno will not be sensitive enough.
The methanol in the water/methanol is not responsible for the cleaning of the carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. It is the steam from the water that cleans the carbon.
Although technically pure methanol is corrosive to aluminum, it does not pose that much of a problem in real life. Many people report no ill effects of running pure methanol with aluminum. The only big exception is if the methanol is allow to remain stagnant (sitting) with no circulation around the aluminum components for an extended period of time (weeks).
A much bigger concern is the incompatibility of the methanol with other materials, such as plastics and rubbers. The big concern here is various rubber seals will be attacked by the methanol if the seal material is not compatible.
The reason that methanol is sold in an approx 50/50 mixture of water/methanol is *not* because pure methanol is corrosive. Although you will see a lot of marketing jargon stating that reason. It is not the real reason. Here is the real reason. The 50/50 mixture is not a flammable liquid. Whereas, straight 100% methanol is very much flammable and a health risk (toxic). So for legality reasons, the manufacturer must state that their kit is intended for 50/50 mixture and sell premix with no more than 50% methanol.
The vast majority of hard-core WMI users (which are turbo applications) actually have better results with pure methanol versus any water/methanol mixture.
In closing, please don't think that I am discouraging you or saying that the WMI would not help a n/a TL. There is a good change that it would help. I plan to do it. I already have my pump, tank, and performance meter,.
For further reading, here are a few of my favorite links -
1) straight water vs Methanol or a Methanol mixture (click here)
2) Straight meth, who runs it in their system only (click here)
3) How much octane does methanol injection really add? (click here)
4) Tired of Water or Water & Methanol Injection Questions? I AM! (click here)
Be careful with the amount of temp reduction that you read from the internet. The huge percentage of people running WMI (Water/methanol Injection) are turbocharged. The turbo intake temp is very hot when under boost. It is very easy to get large temp reductions when w/m (water/methanol) is injected into this compressed hot air. However, there is much less temp reduction when w/m is injected into a n/a intake.
The w/m is not a sure way to increase HP. On the contrary, there is a much greater change that you will loss power in a n/a application. Too much water injected will actually "put out the fire" in the engine. Will WMI help you in your case? Good question. All cars and individual setups/tunes are different. WMI is a very sensitive type of tuning. The only way to know is either try it yourself or ask if others with your same car/setup have had any positive results. So you are doing the right thing by posting your question. Unfortunately, I think that you are not going to receive any replies of people that have actually did WMI on a n/a TL. I am doing WMI on my n/a TL, but it will be about two months before I can give you any feedback.
And, if you do try the WMI, I recommend that you get a performance meter to evaluate your results. The amount of overall mixture and/or the ratio of methanol to water will need to be experimented with to see what works best on *your* car. In my opinion, the only way to evaluate what volume/ratio works best for you is with a performance meter. The Butt Dyno will not be sensitive enough.
The methanol in the water/methanol is not responsible for the cleaning of the carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. It is the steam from the water that cleans the carbon.
Although technically pure methanol is corrosive to aluminum, it does not pose that much of a problem in real life. Many people report no ill effects of running pure methanol with aluminum. The only big exception is if the methanol is allow to remain stagnant (sitting) with no circulation around the aluminum components for an extended period of time (weeks).
A much bigger concern is the incompatibility of the methanol with other materials, such as plastics and rubbers. The big concern here is various rubber seals will be attacked by the methanol if the seal material is not compatible.
The reason that methanol is sold in an approx 50/50 mixture of water/methanol is *not* because pure methanol is corrosive. Although you will see a lot of marketing jargon stating that reason. It is not the real reason. Here is the real reason. The 50/50 mixture is not a flammable liquid. Whereas, straight 100% methanol is very much flammable and a health risk (toxic). So for legality reasons, the manufacturer must state that their kit is intended for 50/50 mixture and sell premix with no more than 50% methanol.
The vast majority of hard-core WMI users (which are turbo applications) actually have better results with pure methanol versus any water/methanol mixture.
In closing, please don't think that I am discouraging you or saying that the WMI would not help a n/a TL. There is a good change that it would help. I plan to do it. I already have my pump, tank, and performance meter,.
For further reading, here are a few of my favorite links -
1) straight water vs Methanol or a Methanol mixture (click here)
2) Straight meth, who runs it in their system only (click here)
3) How much octane does methanol injection really add? (click here)
4) Tired of Water or Water & Methanol Injection Questions? I AM! (click here)
Last edited by Inaccurate; 06-28-2010 at 08:32 AM.
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sunny201 (07-20-2013)
06-28-2010, 11:07 AM
#5
Pro
Thanks Inaccurate for all the great info and links. I do think running meth or a meth mix could help the IATs which would def. keep the ECU from retarding timing during these hot summer months. This could also solve some of the knocking issues some people experience during these months.
06-28-2010, 12:36 PM
#7
Safety Car
For me, I have "special" issues that require WMI.
For the others, the WMI might help (no one has tried yet) with the heat soak issue if done cautiously in small volumes.
Please HELP !!...Car sluggish or Flies(click here)
109 octane unleaded = 5mpg increase...(click here)
Engine Heat-Soaking issue (click here)
For the others, the WMI might help (no one has tried yet) with the heat soak issue if done cautiously in small volumes.
Please HELP !!...Car sluggish or Flies(click here)
109 octane unleaded = 5mpg increase...(click here)
Engine Heat-Soaking issue (click here)
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06-28-2010, 01:10 PM
#8
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well WMI does more then what I stated above. Since the car has 11.x compression ratio is also helps reduce the risk of denotation since the gas mixture can vary seasonally. Like in winter mix are you really getting that 91 or 93 mixture that you are paying for? Like I don't expect the car to gain 25 hp from WMI.
As for too much wmi I am going to use the lowest sprayer which is rated at 1 gallon per hour. I am not going to run it full time. Only 4k RPM and up when I need to start passing people. The car feels really slow passing people in the summer. 3rd feels almost like 5th or 6th in 100+ heat. Super heat soak even with the thermal barrier gasket and coolant bypass at WOT.
Anyways Thanks Inaccurate for all those links. I will read more to do some more hw. I really want to try it since no one else has tried it.
As for too much wmi I am going to use the lowest sprayer which is rated at 1 gallon per hour. I am not going to run it full time. Only 4k RPM and up when I need to start passing people. The car feels really slow passing people in the summer. 3rd feels almost like 5th or 6th in 100+ heat. Super heat soak even with the thermal barrier gasket and coolant bypass at WOT.
Anyways Thanks Inaccurate for all those links. I will read more to do some more hw. I really want to try it since no one else has tried it.
06-28-2010, 01:24 PM
#9
Safety Car
thisaznboi88,
I am excited to see someone willing to give it a try. Please keep us updated on your progress. Godspeed
Also, I am just double checking if you have seen this thread linked below. Granted the mod is not for everyone, but if you really get fed-up with the heat soaking, this Ultimate Cooling Mod *will* fix it.
The Ultimate Cooling Mod (click here)
I am excited to see someone willing to give it a try. Please keep us updated on your progress. Godspeed
Also, I am just double checking if you have seen this thread linked below. Granted the mod is not for everyone, but if you really get fed-up with the heat soaking, this Ultimate Cooling Mod *will* fix it.
The Ultimate Cooling Mod (click here)
06-28-2010, 07:30 PM
#11
Team Owner
06-28-2010, 07:39 PM
#12
Team Owner
Everything has been covered already. Start off with pure methanol and a very, very small shot and ramp it up from there.
When NA, you're not really getting as much from the cooling effect but that additional octane should help a lot. There are two main reasons. You're not injecting nearly as much meth and the charge air is not as hot. You're going to get much more of a cooling effect from 300F turbo air than from 110F NA air. With that said, I have tons and tons of data logs from my old setup. I remember at 28psi boost, the intercooler outlet temps averaged around 120F-125F on an 80 degree night. The meth brought charge air temps down to 60F and lower (the guage only went down to 60 degrees). As I said before, this was MUCH more meth than you would use in the TL. My 60lb injectors were going past 80% DC at only 22psi and about 20% of the total fuel was from the meth. So it is possible to get a good cooling effect at relatively low charge temps but you would have to find a way to pull the fuel back to run the amount of meth needed.
I think the best thing is to run the smallest nozzle offered and maintain a fairly high pump psi if possible. I'm not sure what kind of strategy you want to employ. Basing it on the MAP sensor would be the best that I could think of off my head. The TL needs help nearly everywhere in the load and rpm range as it likes to ping. Setup off of the MAP, you could trigger it at whatever load (vacuum) range you want which is exactly the same as the turbo kits that are triggered off of boost.
When NA, you're not really getting as much from the cooling effect but that additional octane should help a lot. There are two main reasons. You're not injecting nearly as much meth and the charge air is not as hot. You're going to get much more of a cooling effect from 300F turbo air than from 110F NA air. With that said, I have tons and tons of data logs from my old setup. I remember at 28psi boost, the intercooler outlet temps averaged around 120F-125F on an 80 degree night. The meth brought charge air temps down to 60F and lower (the guage only went down to 60 degrees). As I said before, this was MUCH more meth than you would use in the TL. My 60lb injectors were going past 80% DC at only 22psi and about 20% of the total fuel was from the meth. So it is possible to get a good cooling effect at relatively low charge temps but you would have to find a way to pull the fuel back to run the amount of meth needed.
I think the best thing is to run the smallest nozzle offered and maintain a fairly high pump psi if possible. I'm not sure what kind of strategy you want to employ. Basing it on the MAP sensor would be the best that I could think of off my head. The TL needs help nearly everywhere in the load and rpm range as it likes to ping. Setup off of the MAP, you could trigger it at whatever load (vacuum) range you want which is exactly the same as the turbo kits that are triggered off of boost.
06-28-2010, 09:02 PM
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Thanks I hate cars. I was going to buy this set up
http://www..net/forums/showthread.php?t=204261
Its like 150 off of the retail price. I am going to run it off the MAP voltage. And going to run the smallest nozzle which is 1 gallon per hour. I think its the 50ml or 100ml one. I need to double check.
May main goal is to have the car run efficiently in hot weather so that less power is lost to heat soak.
I am learning how the system work on my friend car, but it is way different since he is turbocharged and benefits more from it. Right now he is running Pure distilled water in his system which I was like WTF at first.
Anyways I need to do more hw.
http://www..net/forums/showthread.php?t=204261
Its like 150 off of the retail price. I am going to run it off the MAP voltage. And going to run the smallest nozzle which is 1 gallon per hour. I think its the 50ml or 100ml one. I need to double check.
May main goal is to have the car run efficiently in hot weather so that less power is lost to heat soak.
I am learning how the system work on my friend car, but it is way different since he is turbocharged and benefits more from it. Right now he is running Pure distilled water in his system which I was like WTF at first.
Anyways I need to do more hw.
06-28-2010, 09:13 PM
#14
Team Owner
I'm sure you will get it figured out. I almost did this but decided against it. If you do it successfully I'll probably do it too. I'll be watching for sure.
One way to think about it to really simplify things...
Manifold vacuum and pressure (boost) are the same thing in reality. They're both a measure of pressure. The range is just smaller in NA form; 18" to 0psi. Turbo is 18" to 25psi or whatever boost. Just different scales, that's all.
Treat it as if it were boost such as figuring out the best map trigger point and all. Just start out with a much smaller nozzle and run pure meth.
One way to think about it to really simplify things...
Manifold vacuum and pressure (boost) are the same thing in reality. They're both a measure of pressure. The range is just smaller in NA form; 18" to 0psi. Turbo is 18" to 25psi or whatever boost. Just different scales, that's all.
Treat it as if it were boost such as figuring out the best map trigger point and all. Just start out with a much smaller nozzle and run pure meth.
06-28-2010, 09:34 PM
#15
10-05-2010, 10:35 PM
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Safety Car
^ Not yet. I am hoping soon 
. The weather just now cooled down this past week. Temps in 50's at night and low 80's for a high temp. Spent this last weekend doing a brake job on the wife's car.
BTW - Racing Brake ET500 brake pads rock
. The weather just now cooled down this past week. Temps in 50's at night and low 80's for a high temp. Spent this last weekend doing a brake job on the wife's car.BTW - Racing Brake ET500 brake pads rock
10-05-2010, 11:54 PM
#19
10-10-2010, 11:23 PM
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I was reading that people spraying nitrous can also use meth as a safety measure. I was thinking about going turbo but I already have a nitrous setup to go with and about 3000 in cash to build my cls6, so now im looking for the best yet "most" reliable setup would be. I thought I would start out with a lightweight flywheel and new clutch. 100 shot, 2/12 exhaust, lightweight pulley set, already have headers, aem f/ic for tuning, etc. would i benefit from the meth setup with my setup of spraying? I really dont want to go with all of the hassle to turbo the car honestly, although it would be sick as f**k!
10-11-2010, 09:40 AM
#22
All motor
I was reading that people spraying nitrous can also use meth as a safety measure. I was thinking about going turbo but I already have a nitrous setup to go with and about 3000 in cash to build my cls6, so now im looking for the best yet "most" reliable setup would be. I thought I would start out with a lightweight flywheel and new clutch. 100 shot, 2/12 exhaust, lightweight pulley set, already have headers, aem f/ic for tuning, etc. would i benefit from the meth setup with my setup of spraying? I really dont want to go with all of the hassle to turbo the car honestly, although it would be sick as f**k!
10-11-2010, 01:54 PM
#23
Team Owner
10-11-2010, 01:56 PM
#24
Team Owner
I was reading that people spraying nitrous can also use meth as a safety measure. I was thinking about going turbo but I already have a nitrous setup to go with and about 3000 in cash to build my cls6, so now im looking for the best yet "most" reliable setup would be. I thought I would start out with a lightweight flywheel and new clutch. 100 shot, 2/12 exhaust, lightweight pulley set, already have headers, aem f/ic for tuning, etc. would i benefit from the meth setup with my setup of spraying? I really dont want to go with all of the hassle to turbo the car honestly, although it would be sick as f**k!
Meth injection is very beneficial for nitrous use. Inaccurate above is getting ready to run it for that exact reason. It's on a dedicated fuel system of sorts.
For a 100 shot with the high compression of these cars I would say race gas or meth is a necessity if you want it to live.
03-18-2012, 04:35 PM
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Bump from the dead. Just order my aquamist kit and a 2.5 gallon tank. Will be running the signal off the injectors pulse.
this is my kit and jet size are .5mm *h2o*, .6mm *70/30 meth*, and .7mm *50/50 meth*.
http://www.howertonengineering.net/p...on-System.html
Also check out this article
http://www.karlsnet.com/mopar/waterinjection.shtml
this is my kit and jet size are .5mm *h2o*, .6mm *70/30 meth*, and .7mm *50/50 meth*.
http://www.howertonengineering.net/p...on-System.html
Also check out this article
http://www.karlsnet.com/mopar/waterinjection.shtml
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 03-18-2012 at 04:38 PM.
03-18-2012, 06:38 PM
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here a video from AEM.
Now what I really want from this mod is to have a cleaner engine and have it run a little bit cooler. Since you did see that my p2r gasket did get melted, and even after swapping to a Magnesium IM. Heat soak is still a bitch. Now with that being said I really think that the will enjoy the W/M since it will help somewhat with temperature. Remember our cars have the cats on the head in the engine bay. Most cars have the cats near the end of the headers closer to the ground. I believe the ultimate cooling mod really helped out with the OP car, and he also relocated to the IAT and the car felt better.
Now there is not too much research being posted on W/M on N/A cars. Most are used on boosted cars to lower extreme IAT and to combat knocking. So I am going to be doing a few testing and posting the results. Eventually, I would like to have the car dyno without meth and with Meth. Hopefully there is some power to be gain from preventing the car from pulling timing. E.G driving the car in the summer vs driving it in the winter.
this is the tank I will be running
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/...mped-tank.html
Now what I really want from this mod is to have a cleaner engine and have it run a little bit cooler. Since you did see that my p2r gasket did get melted, and even after swapping to a Magnesium IM. Heat soak is still a bitch. Now with that being said I really think that the will enjoy the W/M since it will help somewhat with temperature. Remember our cars have the cats on the head in the engine bay. Most cars have the cats near the end of the headers closer to the ground. I believe the ultimate cooling mod really helped out with the OP car, and he also relocated to the IAT and the car felt better.
Now there is not too much research being posted on W/M on N/A cars. Most are used on boosted cars to lower extreme IAT and to combat knocking. So I am going to be doing a few testing and posting the results. Eventually, I would like to have the car dyno without meth and with Meth. Hopefully there is some power to be gain from preventing the car from pulling timing. E.G driving the car in the summer vs driving it in the winter.
this is the tank I will be running
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/...mped-tank.html
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 03-18-2012 at 06:46 PM.
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TrustinHFDJ (07-05-2012)
03-18-2012, 09:44 PM
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http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/p...rca-a61-honda/
Hmm the accord ecu is rewrittable? Maybe the TL is also?
Hmm the accord ecu is rewrittable? Maybe the TL is also?
03-19-2012, 10:31 AM
#28
All motor
It's probably the 4cyl ECU. I doubt no one would have picked up on this sooner. Apparently the TL-s ECU is rewritable though.
03-19-2012, 10:57 AM
#29
hmm...
03-19-2012, 11:10 AM
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i also found an article from a g37 intake install. basically the g37 ecu is also stubborn. when it sees more air it leans out the mixture. This increases the EGT. Then the sensor retard timing to try to get the car back into the regular parameters. Now I was thinking since water/meth does alter the fuel, IAT, and EGT. The Ecu will either like it and keep the timing advance, or hate it and retard timing like crazy. So I think a big part of it will have to do with getting the concentration of water and methanol right. *In theory*
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 03-19-2012 at 11:15 AM.
03-21-2012, 05:09 PM
#32
gerzand just posted that he finished his j35a8 build w/ a 13:1 CR and noticeable detonation over 3500 RPM and/or >75% throttle. Wouldn't this type of system be useful in this instance? You could fill up with 91-93 and run the methanol injection when it was needed, while using all of the timing advance and getting max HP.
03-21-2012, 05:32 PM
#33
Team Owner
I have the link for the v6 AT and v6 MT. Its more or less whether or not the company making the flasher and ecu think its profitable. Its kinda sad since the Accord and TL have soo much potential.
i also found an article from a g37 intake install. basically the g37 ecu is also stubborn. when it sees more air it leans out the mixture. This increases the EGT. Then the sensor retard timing to try to get the car back into the regular parameters. Now I was thinking since water/meth does alter the fuel, IAT, and EGT. The Ecu will either like it and keep the timing advance, or hate it and retard timing like crazy. So I think a big part of it will have to do with getting the concentration of water and methanol right. *In theory*
i also found an article from a g37 intake install. basically the g37 ecu is also stubborn. when it sees more air it leans out the mixture. This increases the EGT. Then the sensor retard timing to try to get the car back into the regular parameters. Now I was thinking since water/meth does alter the fuel, IAT, and EGT. The Ecu will either like it and keep the timing advance, or hate it and retard timing like crazy. So I think a big part of it will have to do with getting the concentration of water and methanol right. *In theory*
Meth alters AF but unless you're running a huge shot it does not alter that much, hardly enough to have to make adjustments.
Retarding timing increases EGT fwiw. If the meth injection is before the IAT sensor, chances are you will get more timing due to the colder air charge.
Boosted and NA are one in the same, boosted just has more of a range from idle to full throttle. Just have the meth come on at a pretetermined vacuum level and have the ramp up based off of any of several parameters.
Injector dc is not a good way to trigger the meth but it's a decent way to ramp up the meth. DC will be lower at low VE and higher at high VE. You could potentially go full throttle and not trigger the meth. Vacuum is a much better way of doing it.
If you get it dialed in really well you could look into deleting your EGR. Normally this would cause detionation and timing retard but you might be able to get away with it depending on the trigger point.
03-21-2012, 05:47 PM
#34
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gerzand just posted that he finished his j35a8 build w/ a 13:1 CR and noticeable detonation over 3500 RPM and/or >75% throttle. Wouldn't this type of system be useful in this instance? You could fill up with 91-93 and run the methanol injection when it was needed, while using all of the timing advance and getting max HP.
@ I hate cars
Thank you for your insight. I was doing a lot of research on water meth from the turbo gas and diesel cars, and trying to relate them down to N/A. Not a lot of people do it.
I was planning to do it by pulse because sometimes Im lazy to down gear and I just got WOT in 6th gear *65mph*. I don't want the engine chocking up because of the water/meth killing the flames.
Water meth with be before the IAT. I am using the p2r TB spacer for that since it has a 1/8 tap already in it. My sensor is a little more downstream then the regular accord/base TL since I swap in a TL-S IM.
What is FWIW? I understand that higher EGT will also retard timing since a few of the TDI guys had it go all the way up to 1600+ degrees. With water/meth it went back down to 1100, but slowly creeper back up since you can't fight the laws of physics/ Thermal Chem forever.
also how would I do it using vacuum?
This is the exact system that I bought
http://howertonengineering.com/produ...ection-system/
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 03-21-2012 at 05:55 PM.
03-22-2012, 06:07 PM
#35
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Water Methanol Injection project
Kit
tank
ill be running the signal off the injectors pulse.
this is my kit and jet size are .5mm *h2o*, .6mm *70/30 meth*, and .7mm *50/50 meth*.
Aquamist HFS-2 Injection System
Water Injection Project
here a video from AEM.
Now what I really want from this mod is to have a cleaner engine and have it run a little bit cooler. Since you did see that my p2r gasket did get melted, and even after swapping to a Magnesium IM. Heat soak is still a *****. Now with that being said I really think that the will enjoy the W/M since it will help somewhat with temperature. Remember our cars have the cats on the head in the engine bay. Most cars have the cats near the end of the headers closer to the ground. I believe the ultimate cooling mod really helped out with the OP car, and he also relocated to the IAT and the car felt better.
Now there is not too much research being posted on W/M on N/A cars. Most are used on boosted cars to lower extreme IAT and to combat knocking. So I am going to be doing a few testing and posting the results. Eventually, I would like to have the car dyno without meth and with Meth. Hopefully there is some power to be gain from preventing the car from pulling timing. E.G driving the car in the summer vs driving it in the winter.
this is the tank I will be running
2.5 Gallon Sumped Tank
tank
ill be running the signal off the injectors pulse.
this is my kit and jet size are .5mm *h2o*, .6mm *70/30 meth*, and .7mm *50/50 meth*.
Aquamist HFS-2 Injection System
Water Injection Project
here a video from AEM.
Now there is not too much research being posted on W/M on N/A cars. Most are used on boosted cars to lower extreme IAT and to combat knocking. So I am going to be doing a few testing and posting the results. Eventually, I would like to have the car dyno without meth and with Meth. Hopefully there is some power to be gain from preventing the car from pulling timing. E.G driving the car in the summer vs driving it in the winter.
this is the tank I will be running
2.5 Gallon Sumped Tank
03-22-2012, 06:12 PM
#36
i will be following this.
