Does the CEL trigger a safe mode map that the ECU reverts to?

I know thats what happened in my old Prelude, when you get a CEL, the computer changes to a "safe map" running richer and such..

Is this the case with our TLs?

 

js got my defoulers in cant wait ....

 

mine will be shipped soon and was wondering what the 411 on defoulers are?

I remember in the early days guys mentioned how this would cure CEL issues.

Are they included? If not, where do you get them and how much? Part #?

 

they come on the pre deletes so you dnt have to get them... jst that sum ppl need smaller defoulers bc cels are pop'n up

 

What's a freakin defoulers?

 

Basically, if an O2 sensor detects TOO much or TOO little exhaust, it'll throw a CEL.

The defoulers trick the O2 sensors. Sometimes, the little hole on top of the defoulers are too big and the O2 sensor detects too much exhaust. The solution to this is to make the hole smaller.

 

IC, what kind of ECU do we have? There's nothing available on the market for our ECU to be less tricky and more performance oriented, like a chip or another ECU?

Sorry for being OT!

 

uh-oh! he said chip! No chip, bro. It's a very difficult ECU to trick. Takes 2 GReddy management systems right now. search "hondata"

what's the best link to order the smaller defoulers and what's the price tag. I'm assuming you would need 2. I can't stand CEL's and I would hate to have to peel those hoe's back off just to swap d'foulers (if that's the case).

 

Just PM RichieV6 and he'll set you straight... assuming you've bought his precat deletes

 

Swapping defoulers requires nothing to be uninstalled, you just need thcar on a lift so you can get access to them

 

any dyno #s with the auto trans?/

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...highlight=dyno

 

Acura has a procedure to get the car to throw a cel if something will be wrong or is wrong....u basically clear the dtc's if u have any start the car let it sit for 5 mins til its warm....then you take it for a ride at 51mph from 10-20 mins you can keep it steady or set it at cruise whatever......if you do it corrrectly the cel will throw if somethings wrong....otherwise your ok. i just installed the deletes.....im goin to sleep with a stiffy and a smile.

 

Hey, Tripn. Not sure what level backyard mechanic you are but did you run into any snags? I'm one of those DIY guys but, I've had one or two moments working on the TL where I really would like to consult the service manual, which I don't own because the Zine is so good.

 

its a simple install, just involves alot of tinkering... not to mention everytime I've worked on this car for the rear cat i do it blindly

 

heh, not much room to see whats going on back there. I'll have a second set of hands and eyes up top, but we both have big hands. I'm gonna be renting a lift to reattack the pulley, too (48" breaker bar for that beyotch!). I can only imagine how much better it will be to have the car raised.

I'm always excited about these tuff jobs...until I can't drive my car away at the end of the day...

 

Im really not a backyard mechanic dude... I have every cars manual that I work on and mitchell online plus any and every piece of software thats used for OBD and other systems for just about every car on the market.....the only problem is....i work at a friends shop at night and do all my hook ups there because its easier having tools there than at my house and most importantly its heated.... If I cant get in there i have a friends garage I use a few blocks from the shop. I actually went to school for all this...so I have a pretty good idea of whats going on. I definitely recommend getting the manual either off the net as a PDF but thats a bitch because the pages take forever to load or ebay an actual copy of the book. I had the book given to me from my tech friend at acura along with the electrical schematic book. he said this is not a car you dont want to play with without the books.

 

I didnt run into snags.....I did it fast without being interupted and made sure i disconnected everything prior to removal.....afterwards i had each cat delete on the side and swapped the sensors out one by one....popped in all the components....prepped all the rusted parts with rost off (a solution by wurth that removes rust to a degree) and then put HHS2000 (another solution made by wurth) on it to lube it up enough to get everything on there hand tight and continue the procedure richie specifies for tightening. the only thing that f**ked me up was right after I started the car and after everything was tightened down a lot of smoke started to appear......lol I got a lil carried away with the antiseize. so it melted n was smoking but other than that it seems to be fine and theres not a problem... I have a 50mile drive ahead of me today so the 51mph procedure will def be up for a run.....i hope it clears out problems ive been having with the cats n O2 sensors. and I cleared the computer from all the crap it had built up from the prior emissions its been reading the past week or so. Oh another word of advice....if u dont have a torque wrench.....get one....even a cheap one from pep boys it helps.

 

agreed about the books. I haven't ventured into any mod on this car without extensive threads and DIY's with pictures built up. Any time Ive needed a schematic or spec, the mods or regulars are always very helpful with posting.

soooo, if anyone has a pdf of the service manual laying around, i'd gladly take a copy....

 

does anyone have a clip with: precat delete=j-pipe=racepipe=stock catback???

this is what i'm planning to do cause i dont want all the attention. i like to keep all my mods invisible. =)

 

lol.. she probably telling all your aunties how bad she feels for you having to drive a beater.. and how you spend all your time "fixing" it.. lol..

 

well when I did the install I replaced all the bolts.....

went to the dealer $12 bought me 8 cat bolts... and 8 studs


those are the most sensitive and should not be torqued more than 20lbs

 

^you don't recommend using the old hardware?

 

nah if u can replace it...do so... even if u have to wait a day its worth it because the old parts have already been torqued once and its possible that its lost its "torqueyness" as i was taking the rear nuts off the cat...the stud came off because it was either rusted on really nice or over torqued from the beginnning....pretty crazy. that added a few mins to the project.

 

^ I had something similar occur on thewanderer's car... the only way to get it off was to mig weld a bolt to the stud and and then it was able to come off...

its all fun and games till you snap a stud when you tighten the precats... which afterall is like the homestretch part of the install... shit happens, this is a sure way to avoid that

ps. I believe honda has been using the same studs and nuts since 89 so they are cheap ass hell might aswell

 

ouch well good thing u got it off.

 

can somebody post the link to the DIY please I can't find it. What is the hardest part of install? How long did it take you??

 

the hardest part was taking out the rear cat....... u need to take it out slowly and take the heat shield off in the engine bay ( 4 bolts ).... once its off the whole thing slides out juuuuuust easy..... then the rest of ur install is totally simple. I used a torque gun to take off the bolts on the shield because if they snapped i really didnt care....but ill tell u this.....300 miles later and the procedure done after resetting the computer and still no CEL...Im happy. plus the cold starts make it so much more worth it.....lol Whatta growl!

 

so, it sounds like a couple heat shields come off. it's cool to just leave them all off? i'm on board with the fact they are much cooler than cats.

 

he's talking ab out # 5 and 6.... you have to take them off (4 x 10mm bolts) before the cat can fit thru the opening at the top of the engine bay





ps here is my diy thread for you... its in the 3g garage
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/e-106-official-pre-cat-delete-how-diy-642953/

 

you cant put the shields back on ned... so yea they stay off.

 

Nice!

 

oh and i did about 200 miles this weekend and went through the procedure about 2 times correctly and still no CEL's im keeping my fingers crossed that its all balanced out

 

this is the exact procedure...i messed up a bit when i stated it earlier......
engine coolant above 158F
A/T in D (M/T in 5th)
Vehicle speed between 50 and 55mph (80-88kph) with cruise control set
drive about 2 mins, decelerate for at least 4 secs with the throttle completely closed (foot off the gas, cruise off)
then maintain 55mph for 20 mins in cruise.

thats how u get a p0420 or 430 if something is wrong.

 

Maurice, you get any CELs after the new defoulers?

I've been living with CELs for awhile now... do CA TL's differ with the stricter emissions?

I will most probably remove these once it gets warm out since I don't use high end as much as low end. Also, the noise is starting to bug me.

 

actually no we all have the same emissions.... Im pretty sure all cars in north america run under CARB emissions simply because they are the strictest and still let the car have power at the same time. when soemthing says carb on it u know they are extremely legit with their products.....like AEM puts the sticker on the CAI's that also means that it wont break the car....so the dealer cant say oh it was because the intake took too much air in.

 

lol ive been trying to pinpoint the noise of the car now with the exhaust n precats deletes..... it sounds like a baby ferrari motor revving

 

Tripnbeats you gotta update your sig now..

 

nah i ll get a cel that flashs once in a while but its not the same cel as i got when i first installed these. the new defoulers help... your going to remove them hey keep me in mind about your high flow cat

 

try to get the CEL code that flashes in the service manual they tell u of a few that flash and its because of other parts of the emissions system that it does that... pff ur absolutely right but it doesnt let me add more info lol