Power Stop Or Stoptech brakes?
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Power Stop Or Stoptech brakes?
I am going to buy a new set of brakes (front and rear). I have looked at Stoptech from XLR8 and I have also seen Powerstop on another site. I do not know which one is better because the Stoptech brakes are $415 and the Powerstops are around $240. The powerstops are cross-drilled and slotted while the Stoptechs are slotted. I have hard things about drilled and how they are not that different and it is more for looks. And having drilled and slotted can ware and break a lot easier than just slotted. I do not know which one to buy and I wonder why the power stops are much cheaper than the Stoptechs. Any advice?
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ReMiXeDg (03-18-2017)
#6
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Yeah it does, but my last set of rotors got warped due to overheating because of braking and shit like that. At least the slotted rotors will reduce the heat.
I would rather pay the $240 to have them last longer. I just gotta change the way I drive bit.
I would rather pay the $240 to have them last longer. I just gotta change the way I drive bit.
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
you might be throwing away good rotors!!!
rotors dont necessarily warp. instead, what happens is the pad gets melted onto the rotor which then makes the rotor un-even.
are you automatic or 6MT?
I suspect you're riding the brakes which then causes heat from friction and melts the pads.
OR it could be a dragging caliper.
when you get new pads and rotors, you'll want to do what is called a bed-in procedure..this is the fun part!
the bed-in procedure requires you to do a few 60-10mph stops!!! but do not come to a complete stop. do this several times on an empty road way.
this bed-in procedure helps mate the pad and rotor together and helps prevent pad material being left onto rotor
rotors dont necessarily warp. instead, what happens is the pad gets melted onto the rotor which then makes the rotor un-even.
are you automatic or 6MT?
I suspect you're riding the brakes which then causes heat from friction and melts the pads.
OR it could be a dragging caliper.
when you get new pads and rotors, you'll want to do what is called a bed-in procedure..this is the fun part!
the bed-in procedure requires you to do a few 60-10mph stops!!! but do not come to a complete stop. do this several times on an empty road way.
this bed-in procedure helps mate the pad and rotor together and helps prevent pad material being left onto rotor
Last edited by justnspace; 01-30-2017 at 01:18 PM.
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#11
Intermediate
Thread Starter
#12
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
but that was only one rotor, you said you went through MULTIPLE!
LOL ive been here for 7 years and I'm still using a set of rotors from XLR8..
BUT from now on, I'm grabbing the autozone rotors...for $70 bucks!!!! thats an awesome deal!
I dont ever want to spend $240 on a set of rotors.
when you get new rotors, you NEED to do the bed-in procedure. this will HELP them from getting out of shape
#13
Intermediate
Thread Starter
so in that case, yes...you tried everything you could...
but that was only one rotor, you said you went through MULTIPLE!
LOL ive been here for 7 years and I'm still using a set of rotors from XLR8..
BUT from now on, I'm grabbing the autozone rotors...for $70 bucks!!!! thats an awesome deal!
I dont ever want to spend $240 on a set of rotors.
when you get new rotors, you NEED to do the bed-in procedure. this will HELP them from getting out of shape
but that was only one rotor, you said you went through MULTIPLE!
LOL ive been here for 7 years and I'm still using a set of rotors from XLR8..
BUT from now on, I'm grabbing the autozone rotors...for $70 bucks!!!! thats an awesome deal!
I dont ever want to spend $240 on a set of rotors.
when you get new rotors, you NEED to do the bed-in procedure. this will HELP them from getting out of shape
#17
I put EBC rotors(non slotted, non drilled) and Haek HPS pads on my 05 and they work great. Car stops hard enough to hurt you. Ive never had the brakes overheat and they work great. Super quiet and reletively low dust. Cant imaging needing powerstops or stoptech brakes on a TL. Maybe a corvette that sees a track, but on a TL its overkill.
#19
Racer
Gonna be putting wheels on soon and thinking of doing the fronts for aesthetic purposes cuz the stockies look like doo-doo and because #racecar. I will probably hold off for awhile because the pads and rotors look like they have a good amount of life left.
Good to hear you're satisfied with yours.
#20
Former Sponsor
Machining rotors can put you at, or close to, minimum fitment. Then if that's the case by the next set of pads they'll be too thin and you'll have to purchase rotors anyway.
StopTech truly makes a quality product! They've earned awards for performance and durability, to proper fitment and ease of installation. StopTech rotors with AeroVane design can move air better than stock brake rotors. Better airflow means better cooling, and better cooling means less brake fade. They're definitely a better (not cheaper, but better) performing alternative to any OEM or Autozone rotor.
Feel free to PM me for questions or for quotes!
StopTech truly makes a quality product! They've earned awards for performance and durability, to proper fitment and ease of installation. StopTech rotors with AeroVane design can move air better than stock brake rotors. Better airflow means better cooling, and better cooling means less brake fade. They're definitely a better (not cheaper, but better) performing alternative to any OEM or Autozone rotor.
Feel free to PM me for questions or for quotes!
#21
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
i buy stoptech or centric rotors (same company, one is the "performance" side) for all my cars...they are great quality at a good price and brakes are one of the things you don't want to cheap out on. i don't buy their brake pads any more because they dust too much and i found akebonos stop as well or better with almost no dust, but for rotors my vote is stoptechs/centric!!
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#22
Suzuka Master
buy blank centric rotor and call it a day, don't worry about the fancy slotted or slotted and drilled they are waste of money. You only need the slotted if you plan to bring the car to even like SCCA or something in that nature, even then you will need to change the brake fluid and track pads, street pad will only last you about 4 laps.
#24
i buy stoptech or centric rotors (same company, one is the "performance" side) for all my cars...they are great quality at a good price and brakes are one of the things you don't want to cheap out on. i don't buy their brake pads any more because they dust too much and i found akebonos stop as well or better with almost no dust, but for rotors my vote is stoptechs/centric!!
#25
Suzuka Master
^^^^if I am not mistaken its the yellow.
#27
Burning Brakes
After I learned how to do brakes myself properly over the years, I've found that most of the time, the sense of "warped" rotors or pedal pulsation are really:
- pad deposits on the rotors' surfaces
- either upper or lower slider pins is moving in faster than the other due to lack of lubrication / silicone paste on one of the pins or rust bleed-through into the caliper bracket's cavities for the slider pins
- hub surface not cleaned and free of rust when mounting new rotors
- pads not bedded in properly or not bedded in at all
I have used powerstop rotors, and they didn't yield any difference. Drilled or slotted while retaining the stock rotor size, you are just paying more for nothing. In fact, there is less cast iron for heat dissipation. High performance cars compensate for this by using very large rotors with greater surface areas while having drilled holes. What you need is Centric high carbon, that's the most you need for a daily application, even when braking HARD. Go for the cryo series if you'd like. You must have done your brake jobs wrong in the past, I know I did. I once mounted a brand new rotor with just a very thin layer of rust still on the wheel hub's surface, which translated to a huge runout, causing the pulsation. You also need to service the slider pins and clean around the pistons every 6 months, this helps tremendously in preventing seized pistons and slider pins. But let us know how you like the powerstops in a few months.
- pad deposits on the rotors' surfaces
- either upper or lower slider pins is moving in faster than the other due to lack of lubrication / silicone paste on one of the pins or rust bleed-through into the caliper bracket's cavities for the slider pins
- hub surface not cleaned and free of rust when mounting new rotors
- pads not bedded in properly or not bedded in at all
I have used powerstop rotors, and they didn't yield any difference. Drilled or slotted while retaining the stock rotor size, you are just paying more for nothing. In fact, there is less cast iron for heat dissipation. High performance cars compensate for this by using very large rotors with greater surface areas while having drilled holes. What you need is Centric high carbon, that's the most you need for a daily application, even when braking HARD. Go for the cryo series if you'd like. You must have done your brake jobs wrong in the past, I know I did. I once mounted a brand new rotor with just a very thin layer of rust still on the wheel hub's surface, which translated to a huge runout, causing the pulsation. You also need to service the slider pins and clean around the pistons every 6 months, this helps tremendously in preventing seized pistons and slider pins. But let us know how you like the powerstops in a few months.
#29
Instructor
After going through tones of texts, I've just bought centric set on RockAuto - high carbon plane rotors and posi quiet ceramic pads front and rear. It would arrive in 2 months. I will share my thoughts & feelings.
#30
Instructor
#31
I've had the powerstops on the front of mine for a couple years now. They work fine. They seem to make a little grumbling noise when braking medium-hard. I assumed this was from the pad material ever so slightly being forced into the slots when they come around. I don't notice it at all on medium stops and emergency stops, just those quicker than usual stops. Same thing happens on my odyssey with powerstops. But braking performance has been just fine.
Before I put on the powerstops I did not even know you were supposed to bed the pads in. Probably part of why my cars had frequently developed braking issues that felt like rotor warp.
Before I put on the powerstops I did not even know you were supposed to bed the pads in. Probably part of why my cars had frequently developed braking issues that felt like rotor warp.