P2R vs OEM clutch
 

Im in the market for a new clutch. JUST A CLUTCH. From the 18,000 pages of the turbo TL thread, i remember reading that they are using a P2R clutch. And from everything else i've read, only OEM clutches are what work with the TL. I'm not gonna get into CM,Spec because im not looking for LWFW's/ full kits, Just a clutch.

So what are the opinions?

Acura TL P2R Clutch
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/r.../p2rclutch.jpg




OEM ACURA CLUTCH

http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/r...nk8/clutch.png

I just bought OEM for $250 at acuraoemparts.com

like you, ive read and read and read.
and just decided to go with oem for a cheap 250.

I'm running the P2R disc and like it. It is very aggressive and shutters from a stop but holds very strong. This is a race disc, so if you order it expect a non stock engaugement. I ran the stock disc with th supercharger and it was easily able to hold the power, I only switched to deal with turbo TQ.

Are you still on the stock flywheel/PP? When you say shutters, do you mean with each takeoff from a stop? I too and in the market for a new clutch (not right now, but I''m going to need one soon if the slave mod doesn't help). Oh, and also...do you have the one specified for the TL, (the 1st from the top) or the J series one (underneath the TL specific one)? I think maybe the TL specific one is more 'race oriented' than the J series one. There are 2 different ones on the site.

I was gonna look into the Exedy OE replacement. They said it's on par with OEM if not slightly stronger. I had an Exedy Stage 1 w/Fidanza LW flywheel on my 2000 Accord 5spd and was in love with it. That thing took a BEATING. I beat it up, then 2 other owners beat it ever so harshly. Constant burnouts, smashing gears, etc. (I am not the burnout type, I just like mashing gears :yum:).

I would get another Exedy clutch in a heartbeat, and for this I would even recommend their OE unit. I emailed them but they haven't responded yet about a clutch kit. They have them for some cars that you'd be like :what: and not for us. It's unreal.

I am still on the stock flywheel and PP. The clutch is very aggressive and kind of a pain in stop and go traffic, but once you are moving the clutch just grips. The TL's run an unsprung clutch, so with the SC mod slamming gears with the stock clutch might allow alittle slip, but the P2R will break stuff. I ran over 320 HP with the stock clutch and no SC mod so it will hold alot of power.

i have all bolts on and have done the SC mod. i know both clutches will be able to handle the power but how much more aggressive is the P2R?? like undriveable? got a video?LoL

And is the J-series one different from the Acura TL one? can anyone confirm?

Car is also on 84K, would it just be best to also buy a new PP?

I believe 04accordcpe reported a failure with this clutch disc, but that's the only failure I've heard of. All other reviews have been positive that I've come across.

I was gonna get the CM clutch kit but it's just too expensive. The OEM Exedy kit can be purchased on a couple sites for $330. You would have to get the flywheel resurfaced though from what I've heard, which is idk $100? Plus installation probably looking at $750-800 driving away from the shop. As opposed to the CM kit (with LWF, idk how much without) it'll be twice that.

The only ones that really need the CM kit are the FI guys. Even mildly SC guys can get away with the stock clutch for awhile. Shit, KN_TL is still on the stock clutch with his turbo pushing over 400whp, as is Hi Speed. I was a big advocate for aftermarket clutches but seriously if you're staying NA, stock ftw.

And yes, the J series clutch disk will fit the TL as it's a J series motor :thumbsup: Maybe Sean can post his experiences with the P2R disk. I PMd him about it I think, but I forgot what he said lol. I'll have to look later.

PP and a new clutch disk would be the best bet. THe flywheel depends on how it looks. I would not machine a dual mass flywheel but some people still do.

P2r disc we highly recommend clutch pedal doesn't get hard still maintain spongy feel but holds and delivers the power with a more direct feel which is what tl needs for spirited driving but still ok for normal use ....

Which one though? There are 2 on the site?

http://powerrevracing.com/store/inde...emart&Itemid=1

OR

http://powerrevracing.com/store/inde...emart&Itemid=1
I was looking @ the 2nd one. Is it okay to use with the stock PP/flywheel? I was looking into the Exedy OE kit and using the P2r clutch disc.

Sonnick sorry I didn't get bac to answer your question I didn't get to check which one but the one we recommend can be had thru us email mr for more info I think it's 165 thru us ..

That's the one I'm running.

Dude no problem. Thanks!

Who's doing your clutch in Houston?

I'm doing it myself somewhat soon, but I need to get a hold of the special removal tool from Honda/Acura.

bump... any more inputs?

This is kind of a generic statment but a 6 puck clutch should not chatter. I would look for a problem like a flywheel that needs to be surfaced or the pressure plate. Do they make a perssure plate just for this disk? Being mismatched can cause drivability problems.

The worst thing I ever drove was a friend's turbo Porsche with a 3 puck racing clutch. It actually said it is not meant for street use. I'm pretty good with a manual and this thing made me look like a beginner. I got panic attacks when going through crowded parking lots. Honestly, the easiest way to drive it was to spin the tires every single time I took off instead of slipping the clutch.

Back to the TL, I think the requirement is really based off of the driving style. If you like to power shift without letting off the throttle or at least very, very fast shifting the aftermarket clutch may be the way to go. It sounds like the stock clutch will hold up fine though. I haven't heard of one slipping yet when it was shifted properly. If you drive it right and let it grab before applying full power, a stock clutch should last just as long with or without forced induction. If it's not slipping it's not wearing.

so P2r disc and 85K Mile Pressure plate or stock disc with new pressure plate....

Is there a way to get just the pressure plate? Acura sells together.

^^^ Anyone know the answer to this?

As far as I know has to be purchased together and I'm pretty sure ..

What about the Exedy OE spec clutch? My old Exedy stage 1 was an awesome clutch kit. I'd imagine the OE clutch would hold the same quality as their "Stage" kits.

Thanks for the reply, Rodney. I was hoping that wasn't the case so I guess I'll have to bite the bullet anyway.

Anyone want to buy an OEM clutch disc? :D

^ dont even bother running any type of AM clutch disc with the stock PP. your putting down some pretty good power, so dont cheap out when it comes to the clutch. get the full CM kit with fiber tough disc. its all meant to work together, instead of trying to mismatch OEM/AM stuff.


like mentioned before, the stock clutch will hold a good amount of power once engaged, but quick shifting will = failure sooner or later. i dont care what kind of disc you use, the stock PP is the weak link and CM is the only one that makes one for us at the moment =/

sorry to bring back this old thread but i think i'm still confused on this matter.... i too was reading alot about the fact that the Aftermarket clutches on the TL = FAIL .... i'm thinking of going S/C so would definitely like to know if there is another clutch option ... if not then i will stick to OEM

I would stay with the stock clutch with the supercharger. I am still running strong with the P2R disk. Takes some time to get use to but holds great.

Hi speed on your next clutch install I'm going to recommend our new twin disc setup

Dude I didn't bother reading through the whole thing, but I know it's mostly things that have been stated many times before.... if i were you, i'd follow Seans advice...get the full CM kit.

With the P2P disc, you will get a bit of chatter since it's ceramic and unsprung...but nothing extreme..in fact, after a while you'll learn not to let it chatter.

I can tell you this though....I can almost guarantee that when you drop that clutch, you're not going to be very happy with the way your flywheel will look...If you have ever beaten on that car, I can tell you right now it's got heat spots all over it.
Shaving it down it's only going to make things worse. Replacing it will be an additional ~$500

I would seriously strongly consider the CM kit.

To agree with Sean...the pressure plate is the biggest downfall on our clutch.
I have a ceramic disc, and it will hold fine once engaged. But it will slip at every quick gear change. A good aggressive clutch disc can only improve your clutch so much if the clamping force isn't there, at every quick shift you're going to slip hard, and each time your PP and FW are eating it.


Sorry if I'm discouraging you lol...I know what I'm saying is a lot of money but if you're gonna get inside that tranny, do it. If you don't mind getting in there again then, well up to you.
However, I would not do the new P2P disk with the old PP....at least get a NEW PP with it

Bring it back, bring it back....

So I am in the same boat here. I will be getting a new clutch ASAP. I was thinking of doing stock replacement LUK clutch/flywheel. Altogether it's around $550 for everything except labor. My friend knows someone that could do it for relatively cheap ($250-300 I'm guessing).

Now, my question is...I have bolt ons only. This is my daily driver. I take the car to the track a few times a year. I'd say between 3-5x PER YEAR. With the new clutch I will occasionally powershift at the track. I do shift fast and hard. Should the OEM last? I don't have $1600 to spend on the clutch plus another $250 to install. Should I be okay with the stock replacements? :thumbsup:

i LUV MY LUK. i BEAT THE SHIT OUT OF IT

Im broke between Aasco FW with p2r disc and oem PP vs Aasco FW oem PP and disc. I am supercharged soon to be 6 psi its my daily and CM stage 3 is just to heavy for me.

The stock FW is dampened, meaning you have to use a unsprung clutch disc with it. So your first set up of the aasco FW and p2r disc will not work. The next set up of stock everything but the FW will not work either. Unless you are hard on the clutch I would stay with the stock set up. I ran the stock clutch with the SC and it worked great as long as your not too hard on the clutch. I am running the p2r disc with all stock FW and PP and it works great but the set up is a little harsher in terms of engagement.

Dude just buy my Stage 2. I have it for sale. This one guy was interested but he hasn't answered my text. I can check with him 1 last time to see if he really wants it or not, because that would be unfair to just sell it. It's been like 3 weeks of back and forth so I'll see if he's interested. Let me know, it's just sitting in my garage waiting for it's new owner.

Btw, Reese is running a stock clutch with LW flywheel. Also, Civicdrivr said you can run the LW flywheel with the stock disc as well. I'm not sure about the P2R disc and LW flywheel though, as Hi Speed said it's unsprung.

My mechanic has this setup. Aasco FW and stock PP and disc i drove it yesterday and i liked it alot. I dont understand why it wouldnt work. I know what you mean but i drove the car and it worked perfectly. Sonic PM me or txt me.

I guess the question is, are you willing to do the clutch twice and possibly buy a new tranny if unsprung disc and regular FW cause issues.

You might be right on this one though :)