Nitrous Runners Chime in
06-21-2014, 05:19 PM
#1
Nitrous Runners Chime in
Ok, 2006 TL, Mods in sig (most of them anyway). I cant bring myself to save for the Supercharger or the Turbo. so Nitrous it is.
Looking at setting up a wet shot system, WOT switch, Purge system, 50 to 75 shot. only want to have it to run on the dyno to get some numbers put down, then it will spend 99% of its life as a "wow" factor mod so Im not to concerned about the engine wear it will cause.
Who (if anyone) has installed a system on the 3g? results? regrets? advise?
Thanks.
Looking at setting up a wet shot system, WOT switch, Purge system, 50 to 75 shot. only want to have it to run on the dyno to get some numbers put down, then it will spend 99% of its life as a "wow" factor mod so Im not to concerned about the engine wear it will cause.
Who (if anyone) has installed a system on the 3g? results? regrets? advise?
Thanks.
06-21-2014, 06:57 PM
#2
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
As far as members here who have used it and actually posted about it, I believe just Gerzand and Dirty John. Search racing & competition for Dirty John's videos from I think early 2011. 5AT base 3G with exhaust mods and nitrous. I forget how big of a shot, but he was walking e39 M5s with ease. (Or maybe it was just a 550)
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Speeden6 (06-21-2014)
06-22-2014, 07:01 PM
#6
I asked questions, and I did read in past builds.
what I found was that most the posts have dead links to video's, pictures, and just dropped off and never got updated. No one covered install, one covered some runs by word of mouth but no pics and install tips. Seems like there were only about 20 people out there that have run it and talked about it throughout several forums, only 2 on here that openly went into some details about it. Have even PM'd people who said they run it and no one responded so figured I would try a post.
what I found was that most the posts have dead links to video's, pictures, and just dropped off and never got updated. No one covered install, one covered some runs by word of mouth but no pics and install tips. Seems like there were only about 20 people out there that have run it and talked about it throughout several forums, only 2 on here that openly went into some details about it. Have even PM'd people who said they run it and no one responded so figured I would try a post.
06-22-2014, 08:24 PM
#7
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
Yeah, you won't find any step-by-step tutorials on here, unfortunately. I remember Innacurate did a bunch of research and may have shared his findings, so maybe you could search for some of his older posts.
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06-26-2014, 11:44 PM
#8
Ok, 2006 TL, Mods in sig (most of them anyway). I cant bring myself to save for the Supercharger or the Turbo. so Nitrous it is.
Looking at setting up a wet shot system, WOT switch, Purge system, 50 to 75 shot. only want to have it to run on the dyno to get some numbers put down, then it will spend 99% of its life as a "wow" factor mod so Im not to concerned about the engine wear it will cause.
Who (if anyone) has installed a system on the 3g? results? regrets? advise?
Thanks.
Looking at setting up a wet shot system, WOT switch, Purge system, 50 to 75 shot. only want to have it to run on the dyno to get some numbers put down, then it will spend 99% of its life as a "wow" factor mod so Im not to concerned about the engine wear it will cause.
Who (if anyone) has installed a system on the 3g? results? regrets? advise?
Thanks.
Find a banjo fitting on eBay that allows you to tap into the fuel rail for the fuel solenoid. The stock pump can easily handle another 75-100hp consistently. Make sure you run a wideband AFR gauge and if you can afford it, a knock controller such as the J&S unit. Don't forget a thermostatically controlled bottle warmer too, wanna keep them pressures consistent or you can cause air/fuel mismatching which could run the motor lean.
I ran 54 bottles on my old j32a2 before finally blowing the motor with over a 200 shot. There's a thread in the 2nd gen TL or CL section...I can't remember.
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Speeden6 (07-15-2014)
07-08-2014, 08:59 PM
#12
Well, got the kit today and started the basics of the install. Built a false wall for my subs and amp to be hidden, and then a kick panel on the drivers side that will hold the bottle and some controls. I am going with a Arming switch, WOT switch, RPM window switch, as well as a Fuel Pressure Switch. so there are 4 fail safes that will be in place. Install to truly begin Saturday.........
Appreciate thoughts, feedback, experiences (other than blown motors) and anything else....... Thanks for checking it out and chiming in!
Appreciate thoughts, feedback, experiences (other than blown motors) and anything else....... Thanks for checking it out and chiming in!
Last edited by Speeden6; 07-08-2014 at 09:01 PM.
07-08-2014, 09:10 PM
#14
LOL! I am doing the whole install and build myself. just got the mounting and trunk done today. going to start the install on Saturday and probably wont have it done for a week or two. but will update as I go. then going to run a 30 shot as a tester / break in, then Dyno on a 75. get a base with no spray then a dyno with 75 shot and I'll post video's and Dyno reports.
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Speeden6 (07-09-2014)
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JavierC24 (05-06-2023)
07-12-2014, 12:19 AM
#21
all the parts I pieced together, worked a lot with Nitrous Express and Summit Racing. The customer service from Summit is amazing! couldnt be happier.
Started the actual install tonight, got the trunk done, the tank filled and mounted, ran the Nitrous line from the trunk to the engine. Tomorrow its tap the fuel line and input the spray nozzle, then install the WOT switch and RPM Window Switch. Take it out and do some 35 shot pulls to warn her up. maybe, just maybe may be able to make a dyno run on Monday. MAYBE. all depending on the install going well and finding a local Dyno open. there are a few of them so i may get lucky if the install is flawless.
Only concerns I have is the WOT switch and RPM Switch wiring and install. may be a little tricky but tomorrow will be the judge of that.
Started the actual install tonight, got the trunk done, the tank filled and mounted, ran the Nitrous line from the trunk to the engine. Tomorrow its tap the fuel line and input the spray nozzle, then install the WOT switch and RPM Window Switch. Take it out and do some 35 shot pulls to warn her up. maybe, just maybe may be able to make a dyno run on Monday. MAYBE. all depending on the install going well and finding a local Dyno open. there are a few of them so i may get lucky if the install is flawless.
Only concerns I have is the WOT switch and RPM Switch wiring and install. may be a little tricky but tomorrow will be the judge of that.
07-12-2014, 04:50 PM
#22
Thought I would Update a little more.
Wiring in the WOT switch and Activation Switch
RPM Window Swich and Tach Adapter Install
Little Engine and Spray Nozzle Love
On a brake now, about 6 hours total time. 2 trips to the Autoparts store. Its 102 in my garage and only getting hotter. done for the day. maybe more tomorrow but more than likely Monday or next weekend.
Just need to finish up some wiring, and put it back together. trunk is done, engine bay is done, all lines run. just the electronics and testing remain.
Wiring in the WOT switch and Activation Switch
RPM Window Swich and Tach Adapter Install
Little Engine and Spray Nozzle Love
On a brake now, about 6 hours total time. 2 trips to the Autoparts store. Its 102 in my garage and only getting hotter. done for the day. maybe more tomorrow but more than likely Monday or next weekend.
Just need to finish up some wiring, and put it back together. trunk is done, engine bay is done, all lines run. just the electronics and testing remain.
07-14-2014, 09:56 PM
#23
well its all in, taken it out on several 35 shot runs, and then moved right up to the 75. run a couple 75's with issue.
Running a wet Nitrous Express system. dual nozzle fogger in the intake. Power Switch, WOT Switch, RPM window Power switch, and rpm window switch. so basically I Have to manually go in and turn on 2 power switches and got WOT in between 3K and 6100 RPMs for the nitrous to even fire. next is an AFR gauge in the next week or two just to keep things extra safe. want to do some more playing around and tweaking then schedule some dyno time to see what we are looking at.
Running a wet Nitrous Express system. dual nozzle fogger in the intake. Power Switch, WOT Switch, RPM window Power switch, and rpm window switch. so basically I Have to manually go in and turn on 2 power switches and got WOT in between 3K and 6100 RPMs for the nitrous to even fire. next is an AFR gauge in the next week or two just to keep things extra safe. want to do some more playing around and tweaking then schedule some dyno time to see what we are looking at.
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Mondo375 (07-15-2014)
07-17-2014, 11:23 AM
#27
Well, Have officially run through 1 full tank so far and everything is still going strong!
I have had a couple people asking for a DIY on the install of Nitrous, is this something you guys want me to do? I can throw one together this weekend showing all the wiring, placements, educational notes and everything. let me know,
Also if you guys want one should I put it in this thread or just open a DIY Nitrous Install in the modification thread? I should have some Dyno numbers early next week. and a video on the dyno so I'll post that up also.
I have had a couple people asking for a DIY on the install of Nitrous, is this something you guys want me to do? I can throw one together this weekend showing all the wiring, placements, educational notes and everything. let me know,
Also if you guys want one should I put it in this thread or just open a DIY Nitrous Install in the modification thread? I should have some Dyno numbers early next week. and a video on the dyno so I'll post that up also.
07-17-2014, 12:46 PM
#28
Three Wheelin'
Awesome 
No tuning? Is this safe without a tune?
No tuning? Is this safe without a tune?
07-17-2014, 01:12 PM
#30
here is the all encompassing question.
do people run turbos without a tune? yes, do they run superchargers without a tune? yes. do they do modifications of any kind that affect the way the engine performs without tunes? YES!
Nitrous like any other mod will be better and "safer" with a proper tune. but also like any other mod it is not required until you get into higher levels of HP.
contrary to belief Nitrous (N20) is not flammable. many people think it is however its not! so the nitrous itself will not damage your engine. it is made of 1 part Nitrogen and 2 parts Oxygen that at a temperature of around 550 degrees ferenhite breaks down and adds a more combustible compound to your system. thus causing a more aggressive detonation leading to faster rotation and consumption of air and fuel. the more air and fuel the more power.
running a smaller shot requires less. 35 , 50 , 75 (wet) shots are considered a safer choice to run without a tune. when you get into 100 and above you want to look at your spark, timing, and other factors.
The reason engines break down from nitrous is they are exposed to higher temperatures than they were originally designed for. parts wear faster and harder and thus causing the break. not mixing right will cause pre detonation causing the always infamous blown motor.
would a tune be safer, debatable but preferred. would I tune if i could on this platform with out investing a ton of money, YES. however with what I have learned and know I am confident that the J series can handle the Nitrous on a wet shot system 75 - 100 with only doing 1 step colder plugs. yes the engine will wear faster than a stock engine but this also happens when you do any modification to a car. some just wear the motor quicker than others.
do people run turbos without a tune? yes, do they run superchargers without a tune? yes. do they do modifications of any kind that affect the way the engine performs without tunes? YES!
Nitrous like any other mod will be better and "safer" with a proper tune. but also like any other mod it is not required until you get into higher levels of HP.
contrary to belief Nitrous (N20) is not flammable. many people think it is however its not! so the nitrous itself will not damage your engine. it is made of 1 part Nitrogen and 2 parts Oxygen that at a temperature of around 550 degrees ferenhite breaks down and adds a more combustible compound to your system. thus causing a more aggressive detonation leading to faster rotation and consumption of air and fuel. the more air and fuel the more power.
running a smaller shot requires less. 35 , 50 , 75 (wet) shots are considered a safer choice to run without a tune. when you get into 100 and above you want to look at your spark, timing, and other factors.
The reason engines break down from nitrous is they are exposed to higher temperatures than they were originally designed for. parts wear faster and harder and thus causing the break. not mixing right will cause pre detonation causing the always infamous blown motor.
would a tune be safer, debatable but preferred. would I tune if i could on this platform with out investing a ton of money, YES. however with what I have learned and know I am confident that the J series can handle the Nitrous on a wet shot system 75 - 100 with only doing 1 step colder plugs. yes the engine will wear faster than a stock engine but this also happens when you do any modification to a car. some just wear the motor quicker than others.
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FamilyGuy (07-17-2014)
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DjTribe__ (07-25-2014)
07-17-2014, 02:24 PM
#33
My first ricer
iTrader: (4)
I was always under the impression aside from having proper fuel (you have a wet shot so up to your jetting) and colder plugs, you need to pull approximately 2 degrees of timing per 50 shot. Should be easy enough to do with an MSD box or equivalent.
07-17-2014, 02:30 PM
#34
with the dual nozzle set up I have and it being a wet shot we dont need to tune for more fuel / air and timing until 100 shot. dry shot is a totally different situation.
1 degree is recommended for 100 - 150 shot. 2 degrees for 150 - 200. but when you are over 100 you need more supporting structure than timing and plugs or you are going to go boom or brake something super quick.
Again, all this is basically my opinion based on research, conversations, and trial by fire. everything could pop tomorrow or could last for ever. each car, situation, and usage is different. however I have talked to and worked with several people who have run or are running on this platforms or ones similar and feel confident in my findings.
1 degree is recommended for 100 - 150 shot. 2 degrees for 150 - 200. but when you are over 100 you need more supporting structure than timing and plugs or you are going to go boom or brake something super quick.
Again, all this is basically my opinion based on research, conversations, and trial by fire. everything could pop tomorrow or could last for ever. each car, situation, and usage is different. however I have talked to and worked with several people who have run or are running on this platforms or ones similar and feel confident in my findings.
07-18-2014, 04:31 PM
#39
That shop is the closest. a closer shop is getting a station and it will be under $4 per lb. its not bad. and if you dont use it every day just to be able to go WEEEEEEEEEEE your not breaking the bank. I'm going through 2-3 tanks my first month because I am testing, adjusting, testing, and dyoning. after this it will be tank a month at worst!
07-18-2014, 06:32 PM
#40
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
A couple bucks a shot isn't too bad really. I might have to consider this after I get my Flashpro sorted out. I should be trapping 103-104 this fall, so I bet a 75 shot would put me close to 110.
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Grand_hustle17 (10-10-2014)