Sonnick

Wish more people would have known this before I dropped the price of my heads to a damn steal! I just needed them gone....glad they are, tbh, although I'm sure they would've worked nicely on my car.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Lol.

Wasn't there something that concerned Paul though, when it came to running the 3.7 heads on the 3.0 and 3.2? Can't remember what it was, but I think I read it on v6p.


Sick numbers, Simi. I know you want to sell, but have you considered a TL trans swap? I think that having an LSD would solve a good portion of your traction problems. I'm obviously not making your power, but I'm around 270 whp and 3260 lbs (stockish 7G Accord weight?) and on summer tires, with temps over 65 or so, only first gear is tough to deal with. Obviously, as the temps drop below 50, traction becomes proportionately worse and second gear starts to become an issue, but that's to be expected on any car.

simione

iTrader: (2)

when I did the original j32a3 swap, it came with the TL transmission. I joined it to the j36. The issue is the amount of torque I make at low rpm paired with the FD. If i were to do it over again, I probably would not have done the fd. it was a decision I made without having done enough research on it. If I made more power and revved to 7400, it would probably be of more use.
No doubt it is a cool car, but as I get older, I lose more and more interest in it

FamilyGuy

What size tires are you running?

simione

iTrader: (2)

245/45/17 Michelin pilot super sports

Sonnick

Yea the issue is the FD paired with the J36 low end. The FD is advertised as a 3.80, but is in fact a 3.94 (2013 V6 6AT Final Drive) according to research and trial & error. The 3.55 would be PERFECT for Simi's car, but unfortunately those are really hard to get. I get 0 traction in 1st, so I can only imagine how Simi's car feels with an extra ~50 ft lbs at low RPM, even on wider tires.

FamilyGuy

Yea sounds like you're gonna need at least a 265 wide tire to hook up and even then you may need to roll the throttle to WOT instead of just punching it.

You can also try a larger diameter wheel n tire, to effectively reduce the effect of the FD, but then your upper gears will lose some of the benefit of the FD.

Tirerack shows the pilot super sport tread width of the 245/45/17 as 8", and a 235/45/17 as 8.2". That doesn't sound right...?

simione

iTrader: (2)

All good options, but I'm ready to move on. Gotten a few calls lately from my mautified ad, so hopefully someone will bite

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

That's right. I had forgotten you already had the LSD.

So wait, does this mean we can just buy the 3.94 set directly from Honda and get the ring gear drilled accordingly?

simione

iTrader: (2)

Yes. Euro_spec_tsx did that with the 3.55. He paid liberty gears $200 for the drilling. They do the drilling for tbmotorworx

FamilyGuy

Just need to figure out how to correct the speedo

simione

iTrader: (2)

Pretty sure Hondata won't touch it until there is increased demand for it. I text Doug about it, and he said it is not an easy thing to incorporate into flash pro.
I purchased a speedometer correction box, but I would need to figure out the pulse per mile sent to the speedometer to wire it correctly.

FamilyGuy

Did he mention how much increased demand? I think the speedo correction would actually encourage more people to do a FD mod.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

I'm not overly concerned about the speedo error. GPS will still read correctly.

simione

iTrader: (2)

It doesn't bother me too much, either, because I rarely drive the car. But, for a daily drive like Sonnick, it racks up unneeded mileage. He's probably added 3-5 k more miles (if not more) than if the speedometer was correct

FamilyGuy

This and that I don't want to constantly have to remember how fast I'm really going vs what's in front of me on the speedo, which will be a PITA and confuse others when driving my car.

Sonnick

It almost makes the car feel faster lol. That's a good thing, but also a bad thing. Also, the mileage is off the same % that the speedo is off. My speedo is off ~13.2% or something, so that means for every mile my indicator reads 1.132 miles. It's not horrible, but if we're talking 15k mileage per year normally, that equates to an additional ~2k miles.

For the 3.0 and 3.2, I think the gears are really well spaced out. BUT, you need to be revving to 7200+ to be worth it. Honestly, to take full advantage I think you need to rev to 8k.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Forgot about the fact it's going to rack up the miles faster. That does suck, and I don't see Hondata doing a thing about it. I mean, it took 10+ years and hundreds of us begging them to come out with FP for our cars. Only a small handful of peeps are ever going to do gears.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Corrected.

On the FD issue, I don't think having Hondata correct it will prompt people to do the final drive. At the current pricing, Im not even gonna think about it. It's a ring and pinion - shouldn't be more than $400, and I agree that the 3.90 is too much gear. 3.55 is perfect, but then people think that it is not enough of a jump from 3.21

N1h1l1ty

Sorry for the necro bump Simi, did you use the heads off the 07-09 MDX or did you use the 2010+ MDX heads? I'm assuming the 2ng gen (07-09) J37A1 heads since you're using RL cams with them, correct?

simione

iTrader: (2)

Correct

N1h1l1ty

Thanks simione, your thread has definitely pushed me closer in the direction of doing a j36 of my own - going to be an interesting proposition on a 5AT - I think it might actually be a little more controllable too with a high stall TC.

Also one other quick question - when buying the crank and rod bearings, how do you determine which ones to buy - I was trying to find the info on v6p albeit with no luck. Thanks in advance

simione

iTrader: (2)

There is a series of letters on the crank and block that you use to determine what color bearings to use. Also, the rod has a number on it that you use with the letters on the crank to determine the rod bearing. I will take a pic of the service manual and post it for you when I get home.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

letters on the front of the crank.
letters on the oil pan side of the block.
numbers on the rods.
Then google honda bearing color chart and you should be able to figure out what bearings you need.

faster response than me^.

simione

iTrader: (2)

Little speedo vid I made Saturday

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

My reply was for before 3.6. The numbers for the 3.6 build are rather low.

My point still stands and applies.

My properly setup car has no wheel hop, it is magic.

simione

iTrader: (2)

After some thought, the numbers are about on par. You see, this motor is just basically a stock build with the 3.7 crank. Obviously, the only place you see a big difference is in the torque department, where I make more at 2500 rpm than where your 3.2 peaks at. I am at stock compression and stock cams. There are no other 3.6 liter dynos out there for me to compare mine to. I know Paul built one that made 306, but that was with ported heads and higher compression

N1h1l1ty

Does this mean you effectively have to buy the crank and rods first, and THEN order the bearings? Or would a retailer like DCH be able to check this for you beforehand if supplied with the appropriate block number? If I have questions I'll just pm you so as not to clutter up your thread, and sorry for the n00b questions, this is all completely new to me

simione

iTrader: (2)

That's what I did. Crank, rods and block first. Then bearings

N1h1l1ty

Haha I figured - somewhat inefficient but what can you do I guess

For the RL pistons, I'm assuming whether one needs to use the regular or oversize will depend on your block? I intend to reuse my stock j32a3 block so I guess I'll need to tear it down and check clearance manually? Or is this another case of block numbering lol

simione

iTrader: (2)

I used 09 3.5 Pistons. Do you have an Acura service manual for your car? If not, I would get one. All j series motor specs are about the same with the difference being in the internals. I used my accord v6 manual for my build

N1h1l1ty

Will do on the service manual. Going to be my reading at work for the next bit methinks. I realized I was looking at the 05-08 RL pistons which would have been an effective CR of 10.5:1 while the 09+ ones are going to be the same as stock j32a3 spec at 11:1 which is what I want I think. Either way thanks for the nudge in the right direction

simione

iTrader: (2)

Well, I ended up selling this car, and told the buyer if he ever wanted to sell, that I needed to be his first phone call. Well, that phone call came, and I bought it back. So nice to have so much torque and a manual transmission again.

N1h1l1ty

How's the J36 running? How many miles on the motor now?

simione

iTrader: (2)

running great. Just shreds tired through 3rd. 13k miles

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Car looks great. Glad you got it back. Any new plans? LSD, FI, etc?

TacoBello

+1 on the LSD. It's a must for a FWD car.

simione

iTrader: (2)

I've had LSD since the j32a3. It was a complete swap

accordlyfe

Great looking AV6 !