swoosh

iTrader: (5)

I think there will be a difference in the flow characteristics of the ZDX manifold and the TL manifold....think the ZDX should gain a little more in low end TQ

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

I was thinking the same. I guess my PnP stock IM flow that well. I had it done thru Moores Performance, and definitely felt a difference after install. Unfortunately I wasn't able to Dyno then. Like I mention before I'm still satisfied with the swap.

DomGSR-T

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to hijack here but I have a question, If I open my intake in two to polish the inside if the manifild by removing all the 14 bolts surrounding the intake, what kind of sealant should I use to seal them up?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ the manifold is sealed by some kind of glue...you can try to take it apart but it will be a lot of effort....it will definitely create a ton of mess....I did go at it with a mallet and screw driver and no luck...

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

You're not going to gain anything by just polishing the insides of these manifolds. They're already as smooth as can be.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ the human heart and mind always wants more

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

use hondabond to reseal it. But I don't think it will be easy to open and even harder to reseal

Sonnick

I'm sure opening up the individual runners inside the manifold would help, but who knows. I do know that my manifold was done by P2R and that only the opening and lower ports were ported; nothing else. The opening is 68mm and the lower ports are I believe 1mm larger than stock. Internally, the manifold is stock. I believe Moore's Performance goes a step further and ports the inside as well, but I could be wrong.

Still strange that total didn't gain anything, considering he has the TB too. Idk.

DomGSR-T

iTrader: (1)

Exactly, until I have seen it for myself, I will believe there's some imperfections in it Maybe if the ''glue'' is heated it will get soft and easy to remove? like putting front light casing in the oven to change the lens?

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Maybe the 3.7 TB isn't giving any more power than a bored 3.2 TB at 66/71 mm or even a completely stock 3.2 TB (doubtful). Maybe Moore's did a really good job on Total's and that's why he only picked up a few hp, or the few hp he did pick up came from the larger TB alone.

Best bet on the stock 3.2 manifold is to just cut the top open, port it and then have it re-welded. I'd like to see a stock Maxbored TB and stock intake done this way vs the 3.7 setup on a flow bench, side by side.

NvrDwn

Type in ( Dual Throttle Bodies for DBW ) it should be the first fews that come up on google. It's on . Read look at the pics and enjoy

DomGSR-T

iTrader: (1)

This is exactly what I want to do next spring/summer. stock TL-S mani with bored zdx TB vs tl-sawd mani and bored zdx TB. I'll do this with another member here on a same morning dyno. We will also test the V2 vs a custom 4'' CAI.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

I've been following that loosely. Looks like a pretty sick setup.

Sounds good. I think you'll need the P2R adapter for the TL-S manifold? And you'll likely need to open up the mouth on the TL-S manifold to 71-72. Not sure what it measures stock. I know my 3.2 manifold was ~ 65-66 mm at the opening; just slightly larger than the stock 64mm TB.

DomGSR-T

iTrader: (1)

Yes i'll have to get the P2R adapter and will open up the opening size of the manifold and the P2R adapter to match the new TB size.

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

The flow should be the same as they are the same casting. The ZDX has a plastic cover over the intake, so it doesn't need to look pretty.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone tried removing the butterflies in the 3.7 manifold?

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

I wouldn't be surprised that Moore really did a great job. Like I said, I noticed a big difference right away after install. I did not have my TB or runner port matched either. Moore Performance just made sure the IM match the stock openings. However I plan on going back to the dyno soon; got a new part in that might see much better results....cough...cough...exhaust...cough!

Sonnick

^ You were still on the stock exhaust? Ahem...that could have been part of it.

Anx: A member of v*6*p removed his butterflies. There was no before/after, but I'm assuming the same principle applies.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Sonnick, what principle is that? Never really researched it much, but recall something about a torque dip somewhere?

I think Total had a modified Greddy cat back if I'm not mistaken.

Sonnick

^ Yea, there is a dip in torque below 4K RPM. It was substantial on my dyno. Although the manifolds were different, there were only minimal gains under 4K. After 5K is where the manifold really came alive, but I lost 12-15 hp/tq before 4K with the deleted butterflies.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

George dropped his pricing on all TB boring.


$99



http://maxbore.com/index.html

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

You are correct sir! I had the Greddy piping, but Borla mufflers. It flow better than stock, but wasn't perfect by far.

Sonnick

^ What exhaust did you end up doing?

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Ok, this rev hang is getting fukcing annoying. It only does it under load however. If I'm cruising along in say 6th gear at 60 mph, push in the clutch and rev to any RPM, it drops right back to idle. I've tried this probably 75 times just to confirm...no issues when it's not under load. If, however, I'm accelerating heavily and then shift to the next gear, it'll drop to 4.5k and fluctuate 2 or 3 hundred RPM either way, then drop to 3.5k and do the same thing, then around 2.5k, then down to wherever it should be.

I've reset the ecu twice and then let it idle both times for 15-20 minutes (cold idle is a bit higher than with the stock setup, but once warmed up it's fine)

I've checked all hoses etc.

Unplugged and checked main TB, IAC and MAP connectors. Also switched back to stock MAP sensor.

Re-tightened TB nuts/bolts.

Re-tightened manifold cover bolts.

Next step is to pull cover and make sure the manifold to runner bolts are tight.

Then pull TB off and make sure butterfly is ok.

I just can't wrap my head around the fact it only does it under load, which would logically rule out a standard vacuum leak....maybe.

Also, I'm not getting any codes!

dandaman15

Didn't it do it before the manifold swap? On my stock accord it will not go back to idle, instead it does these steps before it goes to idle. Its supposed to do this on purpose. Say you do a 2nd gear pull push in the clutch when its close to red line. Notice it drop quickly to 4,500 like you say and stay there. then to 3,300 and stay there. These are pre-programmed shift points so when you do a pull like that and want to skip shift to 4th or 5th, you can let the clutch out at these points and it wont wear the clutch at all. It'll be at the exact rpm it needs to be.

Sonnick

Anx, when you let off the gas, does the car lurch forward as if you had 300 broken motor mounts? Mine does this all the time. If I let off the gas, the nose dives and bounces a few times before leveling out. It's very frustrating. It does this when shifting as well.

My buddy replaced my mounts so it's not that, and my struts aren't blown either. He suggested that it could be because the AFR is so off partial throttle. The car is now seeing SO much more air than previously and without a tune, it can't adjust for partial throttle. So once the gas is let off, there is much more air in the TB than before, so it can't compensate. Could this potentially be a similar problem to a similar cause? What he said made sense to me.

He suggested we try the 09 TL MAP sensor, but you said you switched from the TL sensor to stock and it made no difference?

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

^It had made a world of difference in low speed partial throttle between gear changes for me. No more bucking when trying to shift smoothly from 1st to 2nd.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Sonnick, I didnt experience too much of a rev hang with the 05 MAF sensor but every once in a while it would freak out on me....when i went to the SHAWD MAF sensor, it was a very smooth ride....

i almost wanna blame the ZDX TB....all of us are using the SHAWD TB....the ZDX TB/Manifold have different part #'s and am thinking maybe its something to do with wiring

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Sonnick, I didnt experience too much of a rev hang with the 05 MAF sensor but every once in a while it would freak out on me....when i went to the SHAWD MAF sensor, it was a very smooth ride....

i almost wanna blame the ZDX TB....all of us are using the SHAWD TB....the ZDX TB/Manifold have different part #'s and am thinking maybe its something to do with wiring

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

^^Wait is it possible to use the ZDX MAF sensor? I just swap my stock sensor over, but not really experiencing this rev hang that you all are taking about.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ I used the SHAWD sensor....I just had to dremel the "guidelines"

here is the pic:

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

^^Ok, so basicly you had to make it fit....so if I do that to the ZDX sensor, it should work?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

i dont see why it wont

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

It seemed hard to plug into; that's why I swapped them. But I'll try tomorrow.

3gstealth

iTrader: (2)

I'm running the zdx TB and sensor with no issues. I did what swoosh did and dremeled off the guidelines. The car runs flawless.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Maybe it did it with the stock setup and I'm going nuts! It makes sense though, keeping the revs up in anticipation of a skipped gear shift. That would explain why it doesn't do it when I'm cruising in 6th, press in the clutch and rev it.

I've gotten that surge very mildly a couple times with the ZDX MAP sensor. Doesn't bother me much.

I think the wiring is all the same from TB to TB; all the same basic functions. I also think the MAP sensors are all the same since all they do is tell the ecu what the manifold absolute pressure is at any given time. I can't see the parameters changing from vehicle to vehicle. It either works or it doesn't, and if it doesn't, it would probably throw a code. I think they're just keyed differently to provide some sort of inventory management and pricing structure. It's a pretty common practice in most industries.

Yep, just file down the plastic ridges like in Swoosh's pic. Won't run any differently though, but at least it's a new sensor. For that reason alone, I'm going to swap the new one back in this week.

Sonnick

I'm gonna try switching the MAP sensor. If that stops the bucking I will be ecstatic. This sympton occurred prior to the manifold/TB installation, so maybe my MAP sensor was bad? I feel like I would've gotten a code though. Or maybe that could be the P0174 code I'm getting on & off?

I_love_cars: Sup bro? How's your setup doing? We're totally hijacking the sh1t out of your thread....

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

is it the MAP sensor or the MAF sensor? I think the MAF sensor goes in the TB and the MAP would go in the manifold

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

It's MAP, which is exclusive to speed density systems. Our cars aren't MAF, which I think is part of the reason our cars respond pretty well to intake mods. MAF is pretty finicky when you start adding more air without a tune.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

so I have been writing it wrong though out