bouncer07

I'm assuming you have Flashpro?

rubenders

this intake is a perfect fit just have to cut it .http://www.carid.com/universal-air-i...it-430686.html

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Our OEM TB's are ~ 66-67 mm bored. Stock, untouched ZDX TB is ~ 69 mm. That's not going to give you 3-5 whp. Add a 4" intake and the ZDX TB and you may see 3-5 whp.

Can you translate to English? I need a 4" intake myself!

Hacura

No, I'll be getting the HFPC's first and then an exhaust. I'm behind bro...

I'll definitely check this out man, looks pretty solid.

Exactly what I was looking for bud. I think I'll go straight to the CAI.

rubenders

When I did the 3.7 setup I I didn't notice a big difference till I got that 4" intake and the big gain came after I got the rv6 hfpc .

Sonnick

I didn't think I noticed a big gain with just the 3.7 IM/TB/runners either. I knew there were gains, but wasn't sure how much. Then I went to the dyno and put down an extra 15whp. Butt dynos suck. I put the 4" CAI on and that gave me great gains as well, but take your butt dyno with a grain of salt.

EDIT: Rubenders, didn't realize you didn't have most of the bolt ons before the 3.7 setup. I had the bolt ons previously, which is probably why I saw such a great gain. That gain was OVER my previously ported stock manifold as well

Before 3.7 IM/TB/runners I trapped 102 in the 1/4 mile, after 104. Then the 4" CAI went on and under great conditions went 106.6.

Also, on the street, it made up a solid 2+ cars. I had a run with a buddy of mine in his RSX-s on this board. Previously, he pulled me a solid 2 cars. Since that run he changed his plugs and raised the rev limiter, so his car was definitely quicker. After the 4" CAI/3.7 setup, we were dead even, with me creeping up top. The 3.7 setup is a must for anyone serious about making power in their J series all motor. Numbers don't lie.

rubenders

Before 3.7 intake manifold and tb all I have was atlp exhaust and jpipe - test pipe with a k&n cold air intake. Next thing for me will be flash pro.

AccordFlex

iTrader: (1)

I had PCDs, J pipe, 3rd cat straight pipe, and XLR8 catback and AEM V2. I then did the runners, manifold and TB and saw awesome gains. Now that the car is flowing nicely I think thats why I feel a decent amount of power increase. Only the dyno will tell though.

Hacura

Are you all running the Airaid filter or sticking to AEM/KN with the 4" setup?

rubenders

i have a 5" k&n filter

Sonnick

I have a velocity stack.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

I have a 5" x 9" AEM filter (inlet is 4" but base is 5", if i remember right)

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

That "build your own" Airaid setup doesn't have a bung for the IAT sensor though, does it?

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

AEM is probably the best.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

no but seriously how hard would it be to drill a hole in the tube and thread it to fit...

It's what I'm gonna do next week.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

^Not very because it's plastic, no?

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

it would be just fine because of the type of plastic I think...could always back it up with some silicon...


it's not like it's a soft, bendable plastic. I'll post some pics in my thread when I do mine.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

^No I'm agreeing with you. It's like a hardish ABS style plastic. Should be easy to tap a bung into to...

AccordFlex

iTrader: (1)

Or you could simply drill a hole, plastic weld/silicon the proper size nut and be on your way. Shouldnt be more than a 20 minute modification.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

oops..misread! yeah exactly. And really, if you're going to drill/tap a new hole, why not just do it into the manifold? just a thought more than anything.

rubenders

I did 2 holes on mien one for the iat sensor and one for the vacuum hose . I will take a pic when I get home and poster it here.
The intake plastic is super hard.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

I can't say I'd want to have a nut inside my intake tract. Loctite, plastic weld not withstanding, it would truly suck if it backed off and got sucked down through the manifold and runners and bent a valve. At the very least, it would be much safer to JB weld and actual bung on the outside of the intake tube. JB weld isn't that great for intense heat cycling though. Could just relocate the IAT under the bumper like Innacurate did.

rubenders

You don't need a nut inside the intake. And if you relocate your iat by the time that air get inter the manifold is like 10-20 degree hotter .I put mien 2" away from the tb.

rubenders

4" intake

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

good stuff man, I'm looking forward to getting mine too.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

The theory behind running the IAT as far away from the engine as possible is to keep it as cool as possible so the ecu is tricked into thinking the actual incoming air is colder/denser than it really is, hence the ecu won't pull timing. Sounds great in theory, but not really sure if it makes much difference in the real world.

You're right about this intake actually running cooler than an aluminum one though. Looks like a good setup and I like the stealth look. Definitely considering one. How's the sound compared to what you had on before?

rubenders

Is a deeper sound specially on vtec in a tunnel. Live it. I will take s video today . I had my iat by the vent in the bumper u make no power out of that because you are dumping tones of feul to aid that is hot.

AccordFlex

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a link for that intake rubenders? I like the black plastic look.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

http://www.airaid.com/U-Build-It_intake_systems.aspx

rubenders

rubenders

rubenders

NBP_BALLER

I am about to do a Timing belt in 10k and am interested in this 3.7 setup. However i want to get the best power out of my build. I know alot of guys(not all) here are just in for a few easy bolt-ons as not everyone is a mechanic like me. I have built alot of GM engines but a 3.2. My question is this,

Will 3.7 heads fit on a 07 3.2 block(mounting/cooling passages/etc)?

I have only a XLR8 exhaust now as i just bought the car 6mnths ago. If 3.7 heads fit, i am thinking get a 3.7 manifold/ZDX TB/CAMS/HFPC and V3 J-PIPE + INTAKE. undestand a 3.7 stroker kit is going to.be available soon. This could be a nasty setup after a nice tune using the FLASH PRO.

Any thoughts on this?

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

No 3.7 heads won't work.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

^B/C 3.7 heads have vtec on both intake and exhaust now

Sonnick

Someone was debating doing the 3.7 head swap on V6 pee. Never got a chance to do it because the heads are so expensive, but apparently they are the same pattern as the Type S heads (minor differences in oil passages I believe), so they might work. No one has tried it. But yes, I don't know how the ECU would be able to control VTEC on both the I/E sides.

NBP_BALLER

Hmm didn't know vtec was different on the 3.7. Maybe i can do a port/polish on a 3.7 manifold and tb as well as the heads plus a valve job with bigger valves/springs. If you want real power you do serious mods. I wonder what duty cycle the injectors are running stock...? If there is enough room to tune stock injectors or get some AM.... little info on builds with these motors as they are few and far between. I will have to look into it more

mikernm1990

Nice!

bouncer07

A lot of times, you keep your stock head and replace the bottom with the 3.7 crank. If you're Type S, the 3.5 head would be an upgrade. For the 3.2, a 3.5L bottom crank would be like adding an additional 7.5K near 8K redline with come performing cams. As for stock injectors, it's safe to do all bolt-ons and some pnp, but you'll be looking at near max duty cycle.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

If anyone's curious what tap to buy for the IAT sensor relocation is a M12x1.5 and you'll need 3/8-13/32 drill bit

Mods might want to add this to the OP's first post for reference.