TheTLProject

Made 225 at the wheels. Heres the video

2006 Acura TL 5AT Full Bolt-On Dyno Run:


These next 3 videos were before the precat and throttle body spacer install, but check them out anyways.

Exhaust Fly-by :


Exhaust rev # 1 :


Exhaust rev # 2 :

TheTLProject

Mods in dyno video:

AEM Cold Air Intake
RV6 V3 Hi-Flow PreCats
P2R Throttle Body Spacer
P2R Thermal TB Gaskets
ATLP V2 J-Pipe
ATLP High Flow 3rd Cat
XLR8 Base Single-Tipped Duals (non-resonated)

Weight Reduction:

Hood Insulation Delete (1.8lbs)- done
Weather Strip (above hood) Delete (2lbs) - done
Engine Bay Covers Delete (6lbs) - done
Spare Tire Delete (34lbs) - done
Rear Seat Arm Rest Delete (6lbs) - done
Rear Floor Mats (6lbs) - done
Trunk Insulation Delete (23lbs) - done

Total Weight Savings - 78lbs

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

nice! now you have documentation. So ever other mod that you do can be tracked.

TheTLProject

That's pretty good gains I guess right? I should have dynoed before I did anything to the car but whatever.

TheTLProject

Oh and this was without a tune. Which is the next thing after I buy the 3.7 intake manifold/throttle body set.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

how much will a tune be all said and done and what will you gain? I get it will take proper advantage of your mods, but is it worth it?

I say enjoy the car as is, or go FI.

TheTLProject

315 for the AEM Fuel Ignition Controller, not sure about tune. Probably 450

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Technically, it's 225 at the hubs, not the wheels, but at least you have a point of reference for future mods. Seems a bit lower than I would have expected, but dynos don't mean much anyway. They all read differently.

I'd take it and get a time slip when weather permits. That's a much better indicator of what your car is capable of, IMO.

TheTLProject

The guy said I may have a valve seal leak as there was oil all near the timing belt but my oil was at full level. Don't know what that is all about.

TheTLProject

I'm also not sure what gear he did the pulls in. Could have been one of the powerless gears (most of 4th, all of 5th). All I know is that car pulls WAY harder than a 225 at the hubs/wheels/whatever should. I think it's making a bit more than that.

TheTLProject

Reason I think that is because I clocked a 6.2 0-60 with just an intake before I really started modding my car, and I measured it with two different apps on my iPhone. So something isn't right.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

don't worry about the dyno. It's just a tool for keeping track of your mod. Also we don't know what you dyno pre-mod, and how are they doing the calibration. SAE? Smoothing 2,3,4?

So don't be disappointed. I dyno 251whp at the hub on my accord v6 6mt and I have everything.

TheTLProject

Oh and if it helps, the dyno run was SAE (adapted). That's what it said in another picture I took after the run.

TheTLProject

I really want to finish off the project and buy the 3.7 intake manifold and throttle body but what kind of gains would I see and would it even be worth to invest into it? That would make my car truly full "safe" bolt ons as far as the exhaust and intake parts go. No pulleys for me. Hearing too much about reliability issues and the price to performance ratio is way off.

EvilVirus

iTrader: (8)

Google 3.7 IM, TB, and runners. I love car started the thread. Almost all the information about the 3.7 is there. Also, Milzar (iirc is username correctly) has updates to that thread too.

mrkingstonvi

iTrader: (8)

Here's the thread https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...thread-870327/

TheTLProject

I ordered the HTSpec 3.7 intake manifold and HTSpec 3.7 throttle body. Now it's on for real.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Numbers are pretty good for a Dynapack. In my experience they dyno lower than dynojets on sub 400WHP vehicles. I'd make a SWAG that you are close to 240 - 250 on a dynojet, which is pretty nice for an auto.

Have you already bought a FIC? If not, have you considered looking for a JnR eu? That would give you better control over the ecu parameters than the FIC.

TheTLProject

Man I hope you're right about that. 225whp did seem a bit low to me considering the ambient air temps and elevation. 240 at the wheels? That would put me at what..290 crank?

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I thought dynapack always read higher because you are bolted on to the machine. So you don't have to account for tire traction and addition rotational mass like rims and tires.

TheTLProject

That's what I thought too but it would be a nice surprise if it's actually under rating my Hp instead of overrating

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

That is the common misconception. If it was done at Church's then I'd say yes the numbers are high as they have/had a notoriously optimistic dyno, but that was years ago. I'm not sure if they even have a dynapack anymore.

Lots of Corvette shops use dynapacks as they are much better for tuning than a dynojet, and cheaper than a mustang dyno. The general consensus, at least it used to be, was that for most cars in the 350+ range, they were very comparable to dynojet numbers, but the low and mid hp cars (typically imports) always were disappointed as the numbers were a good bit lower.

People can rag on dynos and differences as much as they want, but "in general" they are very accurate, and very repeatable. People will agree with a number if it matches what their held belief is, but not if it is outside that belief. For instance, the same day, my buddy's H22 CD5 Accord made 180whp on a dynojet. No surprise, that's perfect for that engine. My stock (Hondata only) 04 6MT TL made 240whp, and people laugh and say ok, sure whatever.

My stock 05 6MT TL made 230WHP and no one complained. Only when they hear something they don't think is believable do they call B.S. My 05 ran 99 in the 1/4, haven't run the 04 yet, but it's on narrow tire 18s, so it might not do as well. The funny thing is, if it went 102, people would say the track was wrong, so it doesn't matter, you can't win, so why worry about it.

As long as your car is staying out of knock, and running properly, I'd say you're making more than 225whp on a dynojet.

TheTLProject

It was done at JE Import Performance in Baltimore, Md near where I live. He did it with the hood closed on a 35 degree day at 65ft elevation

Scottwax

I know you have the stock wheels on your car, but heavier or light wheels will show up as losses (heavier) or gains (lighter) on a dyno. One of the car mags several years ago picked up 5-8 hp across the board just by going to a lighter wheel, using the same dyno of course. Just something to think about to those who have gone to larger, heavier wheels and wonder why your car isn't putting down the power it should be.

FWIW, the new GT350 with carbon wheels shows significant acceleration gains over the heavier aluminum wheels:

Do the Shelby GT350R?s Carbon-Fiber Wheels Help Performance? ? Feature ? Car and Driver | Car and Driver Blog

First time is aluminum, 2nd is carbon

ACCELERATION
30–50 MPH, TOP GEAR 10.8 sec 9.9 sec
50–70 MPH, TOP GEAR 10.5 sec 9.7 sec
30–130 MPH, 4TH GEAR 17.7 sec 16.5 sec

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

He dyno'd on a dynapack that takes the drive wheels off and bolts to the hubs. No wheel weight to account for in the dyno.

But I agree- heavier wheels can definitely impact power in general.

TheTLProject

So what is this whole thing about Dynapacks possibly giving LOWER numbers?

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

depending on the calibration it may read 8-10% lower than a dynojet.

I also found the mystery TL that made 728whp again
Videos & Updates

TheTLProject

Oh ok

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

From what I've seen, it's not the calibration. The dynapack just seems to dyno lower than dynojets on sub 400whp vehicles. Lots of Vette shops use dynapacks since they are good for tuning. When the occasional import comes in, they leave disappointed when their sub 300whp car dynos lower than what they expected to get (dynojet type numbers).

TheTLProject

I'm crossing my fingers that I make at least 235whp on the dyno this Monday. I think that's a pretty fair estimate.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

I'll never understand why people get so wrapped up in a three digit number that means so little. You've got Mustangs, Dynojets, Dynapacks; they all read different, they're all calibrated differently, they're all run by different operators. Hell, most people who get that readout in their hands don't even know if the run was SAE, STD or uncorrected. They're a good tool to track progress, but don't get so wrapped up that final number or even attempt to compare it to others' numbers.


I've seen readouts for First Gen basic bolt-on Si's and TSX's from Church's (the place Screamin Z28 mentioned) that "made" over 250 whp. That's utterly laughable, but you know those guys dropped that number in every possible situation they could. The reality is, they still had low/mid 14 second cars (Si) and upper 14 second cars (TSX) with inflated dyno numbers that ultimately meant nothing.


Get out there and run some cars (safely) and go to a track to see where your car stands.

TheTLProject

I'm going to capital race way once the weather is more consistent and doing some passes. I think I'm done with engine performance mods now. I need better brakes and suspension.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Lol that's what they all say. I said that last year after dyno tuned and now I have a turbo build in progress.

Have fun at the track and remember don't burn street tires.

TheTLProject

Nah I'm serious. Not much left I can do (safely) beside test pipe and maybe porting/polishing upper and lower intake runners/throttle body/intake mani. I'm not wasting money on spacers again.

TheTLProject

Or lightweight pulleys. I want all my mods to not compromise the daily drivability/reliability of the car.

6spd-GERCO

It's the car worlds bench press, Do you even dyno bro?

Agree, 1/4 mile time and speed is more telling, I need to get the drag strip

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

There you go!

Hell no, I don't dyno. I just take your 250 whp figure and add 15-20 for my HFPCs and 3.7 manifold, TB, ported runners and 4" intake. Close enough estimate for me!

6spd-GERCO

You just live your life 1/4 mile at a time. Your math is sound