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Thanks for offering. But I found thispage a few hours ago, and I downloaded all those files, and unzipped, and unrar'd and merged them and created a DVD of the size of 3.2gb. It has the exact number of bytes as the one they sent me. 3,495,591,936. But all the files inside are now LEGIBLE. Meaning, the txt, ini and .bat file is legible. So, this proves they sent me a corrupt disc.
Anyway, I am going to try this disc I created tomorrow. thanks!
Can someone tell me if I am on the right track? I have the software installed on my PC and I have a physical serial port installed.
As I read the back of the HIM, it appears that first the car ECM is copied to the HIM. Then we disconnect it (per instructions) then connect it to the PC to read.. is that correct? It looks like we make changes to the HIM on the PC, then reconnect the HIM to the ECM/DLC and it goes through a process and writes it to the car.
Is there any time when the PC communicates directly to the car in "real time"? Or do you just keep flipping the HIM back and forth between the car and the PC?
Basically, I just want to try to reset or resync my airbag system..
I assume I have to load the HIM first from the car, then face it toward the PC.. and read and make changes, then write it back to the car.. am I close? haha
I just discovered the pass-thru mode and the storage mode. If you don't have a laptop, it will store changes on the HIM. Then you follow the instructions on the back of the HIM to manually let the HIM program the changes by watching the lights on the HIM and turning the key off and then on per step by step instructions on the back of the HIM..
As for the pass-thru mode, It can be used while connected to both the PC and the vehicle; this is called "pass-thru" mode.
"Pass-thru" mode may be used if the PC can be brought near to the vehicle, for example, when using a laptop. The entire CM update sequence is under software control, hence the user is provided with feedback during the whole process...
I only found all that information by poking around on the help screen, because there were no instructions. I also won't need the USB to serial cable because I have the serial port. By the way, the software for that serial to usb converter cable, was all in Chinese symbols. And the software disk would not run. In fact, the main software dvd was corrupted too.. It would not run. So, I would stay away from the vendor link that I posted previously! They are helpless! Don't ask me where all this stuff comes from, but its somewhat of a HACK! All of it! The software is a hack from OEM most likely. And make sure you keep your virus detection handy. I noticed a "HDS manual" from that other Chinapost download site has a "backdoor.agent" virus. At least, that is how malwarebytes identified it. So, I deleted it. But as for the main software, I cannot find any viruses. It looks legit. er, at least as legit as a hack can be. haha! And by the way, to all the less technical guys, I would not advise doing this, or buying it, especially if you are in a hurry. Definately have to take your time and learn the software before you jump in. And find out what all the buttons do. And some apps the bundle does not apply! Like the software 3.012 installed something called MCVI wireless. I am pretty sure that is for another Honda device that is wireless, and I think this HIM is NOT wireless. So, the software doesn't even tell you what you need or don't need. So, you have to go to it with the approach of knowing the software was ripped from something else, and you gotta do a lot of "hand waving" and say, that doesn't apply to me. Then of course there are 2 different ways to burn the changes, or image or whatever it does. Like pass thru (real time) or storage mode. Again, there were no pamphlets that came with the equipment.
So, fortunately, reading through the steps, made me ask questions, as I saw a different method, other than real time, printed on the back of the HIM.
So you are telling me I bought this HDS for nothing? I don't know anything about uploading with honda.. JJH was advertising how good this device is.. and what it can do for you.
He mentioned you can resync or reset your airbags... He didnt say you have to upload that to honda... Not sure I follow you. What kind of programming are you talking about? Programming what?
I could use some advice from the pro's. I ended up using the pass-thru mode because I couldn't get the storage mode to work. Basically, the HIM responded with the car properly but when I took to my PC I couldnt get the rewrite program to see anything. It just said, "this vehicle doesnt need to be updated". Anyway! I was able to get pass-thru working.
Notice it says the SRS indicator is on. And that is correct. My airbag light is on. I tried to initialize the SWS and OPDS, and it went fine but it said to clear any DTC's first. So, I cleared the DTC's but I have a few PERMANANT DTC's. So, I do not know if that is causing the indicator light to stay on or not. But I noticed that the MES selection says MES must have steps taken to erase DTC's from the SRS unit. See, I got the SRS unit from ebay! So it might have been in a collision. How can I erase Permanent DTC's? And What about this MES function? It doesn't tell me what steps to take.
let me know what you think please! haha I'm trying to turn off the airbag light.. thanks! And what about all those that say "invalid"? Is that something not compatible with my 05?
I just tried the MES manual jumper wire reset per this site, and my car acted like it didnt see anything .. like dead wires. nothing responded any different. So, I must say the MES reset is nothing more than something I already did with the HDS tool. Meaning, the HDS tool will reset DTC's but not permanent ones.. Even the screenshots say "replace SRS unit". I got this SRS unit used from ebay, so it was likely in a wreck. I bought it to upgrade to the new cluster. Anyway...
Then I found this on Ebay. He says he can reprogram it and keep me from buying a new srs unit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-ACURA-SRS-AIRBAG-COMPUTER-CONTROL-ECU-RCM-SDM-MODULE-RESET-SERVICE-/311093418307?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2007%7CMake%3AAcura%7CModel%3ATL&hash=item486e9cd943&vxp=mtr
Understood. But my airbags have never blown. I got the SRS from Ebay. I think the SRS unit must have come from a car that had been wrecked. So it stored a permanent DTC. And you are correct. I learned that a permanent DTC in the SRS cannot be cleared. Even Acura as well as the HDS tool says to clear a permanent DTC, you must replace the SRS unit itself. I bought the 07/08 SRS unit because I need it for the 08 cluster. I got the TPMS working like a charm. -No yellow warning light! - But I didnt know about not being able to clear a permanent DTC in the SRS unit. If I did, I would have been more cautious about where I bought one. But nevertheless, that guy on ebay says he can reprogram the SRS unit. I am waiting to hear back from him before I buy his service. Thanks mon!
Side note...
Friend ran into an issue with the HDS. It could not reprogram keys without a immobilizer code. I am letting him try a modified firmware of 3.018. So fly100 wins here.
Thanks. I will. Even if i have to buy a new srs unit i will get it working. Btw, speaking of codes, there is a honda code needed also on the HDS tool. I entered 000001 and it worked fine. I think it was called an rpo code. But I cant remember for sure.
Anyway I will post back when I am done. Thanks.
Why you NEED to own an HDS if you've got the 3.7L throttle body.
The HDS allows you to calibrate new throttle bodies specifically for your vehicle. Before having this calibration, I had parking lot bucking, very touchy pedal, inconsistent idle return when coming to a stop (car would go down to 1200RPMs and then 750RPMs), and shifting felt like shit because of the exaggerated rev hang caused by the throttle body.
After adjusting the throttle body, all of these problems disappeared and the car drives/shifts/sounds like it should. I hated how the car sounded in between shifts with the exaggerated rev hang.
Short and simple, you're going to adjust the idle screw found on top of the throttle body while monitoring the "data lists" variables in the HDS found under the PGMFI menu. 3.7 throttle position sensor A value should read .90-.92 by default. You need to turn the adjustment screw counterclockwise until that voltage drops to .88. After doing so, you're going to run two different calibration/inspection procedures found in the same PGMFI menu. Your problems should disappear after this.
If you have more questions specifically pertaining to this, just ask in the thread. I didn't get into super specific details.
Can this procedure be done after hondata has been flashed? Will this interfer with hondata calibrations, or will the calibrations reset this?
I have an 04 accord with the 3.7 TB/manifold. On the stock ECU I had no problems. Switch ECUs for hondata and now it runs like crap.
I got my SRS unit back. Supposedly the SRS was reset, but I still noticed "permanent DTC's". But it had a few other dtc's and looked like they did alter it. So, I clicked clear DTC's, and it still did not clear the permanent DTCs. Then I went through the OPDS initialization and all went fine. Then I ran the SWS initialization. I got through part ways, and I have to drive the car for 22 MPH as part of that process? I wonder why that is needed? That means I must have a laptop. My PC is not mobile. I had to stop that initialization process. But one thing I noticed just as I was about to exit that that process. The airbag light was off. But so was the engine light. Then after I exited, the airbag light came back on. AND I also noticed even going half way through that process, it actually DID clear the permanent DTC's. So, I thought it was fixed until the airbag light came back on.. I *might* have to properly finish out that SWS initialization process by driving the car 22 mph, and then see what it prompts me for next, before it hopefully shuts off the airbag light.... long process..
I think to get the airbag light off, even though I have a 07/08 SRS unit which is using the FCAN properly to operate the airbag indicator (because I wired it up), I would still have to replace the OPDS unit. Because I have 3 codes now and 1 or all of them could be causing the airbag light to come on. And I am not sure if it is really faulty equipment, or if it is incompatible with the OPDS OR if the codes are left over from the car from where I got this SRS unit on ebay. Supposedly I just paid someone to reset the SRS unit. ( I probably should have bought a new one).. Anyway, The HDS tool is telling me that the front right and the front left crash sensors are faulty. And it also is telling me the OPDS unit Model ID number is inconsistent with the SRS model ID number. So it says replace the OPDS with the proper unit! My gosh, I'm in a rabbit hole!! haha
So, I double checked part numbers between the 05 TL and the 07 TL and there are different numbers for the front impact sensors and also the OPDS unit. Those parts total about $200 or so at wholesale. So, not a huge problem since I have already replaced everything, but I noticed that the pinouts are different and the connectors have more pins on the newer model. Acura started using shielded cables on the 07/08 on the OPDS unit so there are a doubling of pins for that.. So this would be another bear since my harness is not like that.
I thought it would be possible that just replacing the OPDS unit will allow communication with the front impact sensors and they will not be seen as faulty.. But that is just a guess IF the pinout were corrected between the 05 and 08's.. I never had any airbag light before this mod so I don't think my car has any bad impact sensors but somehow it thinks there are some faulty sensors, OR the codes (left and right front) were still hanging on from the last car that was wrecked on ebay! Its hard to say. I should have started with a clean slate and got a new SRS unit from acura for 230 at wholesale.
Long story short, it may not be worth fixing that airbag light. I may just re-install my 05 SRS unit, and rerun the HDS tool and see what it says.. And basically just leave the 05 SRS unit installed so the system works, but then just black out the airbag light with a small piece of electrical tape. I could do all that work on the OPDS overhaul, but I have been working on this car long enough. If it takes that much work and time to get the airbag to go off, then I may just cover it. Maybe in the long term future, if I still have this car, and I find an 07 TL at salvage that has a good passenger seat, I might take on this mod. (The opds unit is located in the left side of the passenger seat) But hey the TPMS works great!!
I got the airbag light working correctly. Turns out the HDS tool was a good investment. But just watch who you buy from.. It is best to work with a seller in the states.
The version on the hds has nothing to do with version on the car. I don't think there is a such thing as a version on your car.. Hds just made some of their own versions and revisions for compatibility purposes of communicating with the car. You don't update your cars firmware like what you are thinking. Just get the latest version they have. And hope it works. Haha its not real Honda equipment. It's aftermarket. So you get these version updates because they aren't exactly 100% perfect.
There have been some transmission issues on my car that have been fixed with software. Is there a way to tell if my car has the latest software without having to make a dreaded trip to the dealer and potentially get bad info? I prefer to get the tool myself and see things with my own eyes if possible. What do I need for that?
There have been some transmission issues on my car that have been fixed with software. Is there a way to tell if my car has the latest software without having to make a dreaded trip to the dealer and potentially get bad info? I prefer to get the tool myself and see things with my own eyes if possible. What do I need for that?
Ya mine didnt work also. I found a source online. But some were infected. As far as i know mine is clean. And the exe works. But i cant upload anything until this weekend sometime. Maybe can sbare on google drive or something.
Resurrection, I have a 2016 MDX and just swapped steering wheels myself with a heated one. I was told that the fix from another member is to reset the steering wheel reel sensor. Anyone run into this scenario with a comparable acura? If so, is it intuitive to reset this sensor using HDS/HIM?
I'm going to the dealer to have them reset but if they try to gouge me on price and charge me anything more than an hour of labor I'm going to walk and buy an HDS/HIM and fix myself. Thanks.
Resurrection, I have a 2016 MDX and just swapped steering wheels myself with a heated one. I was told that the fix from another member is to reset the steering wheel reel sensor. Anyone run into this scenario with a comparable acura? If so, is it intuitive to reset this sensor using HDS/HIM?
I'm going to the dealer to have them reset but if they try to gouge me on price and charge me anything more than an hour of labor I'm going to walk and buy an HDS/HIM and fix myself. Thanks.
There is not anything on the steering wheel to reset on a TL. A reel doesn't work like that. You just need to keep from spinning it while the steering wheel is dismounted. If you spin it, then it is likely messed up now, and may cause a warning light. You did not say what is wrong with your MDX... But if you turned it once too far clockwise, then you can try to spin it counterclockwise once, to see if that fixes your problem. The real test would be to drive the car. If the car drives straight with no airbag light on, then ok, good. But if the airbag light illuminates when you turn the vehicle left, then your reel is likely spun once too many counterclockwise. The same is true for the turning right.. but clockwise instead.
I would at least try to reset your airbag light using the manual method. And then see if the airbag light comes on.. But i'm just guessing your airbag light is on.. You didnt say what is wrong.
This video shows a yellow plug. I think all acura's have this yellow plug. It is plugged into a dead socket. Just need to disconnect it and jumper the wires. There should be a procedure for that somewhere..
There is not anything on the steering wheel to reset on a TL. A reel doesn't work like that. You just need to keep from spinning it while the steering wheel is dismounted. If you spin it, then it is likely messed up now, and may cause a warning light. You did not say what is wrong with your MDX... But if you turned it once too far clockwise, then you can try to spin it counterclockwise once, to see if that fixes your problem. The real test would be to drive the car. If the car drives straight with no airbag light on, then ok, good. But if the airbag light illuminates when you turn the vehicle left, then your reel is likely spun once too many counterclockwise. The same is true for the turning right.. but clockwise instead.
I would at least try to reset your airbag light using the manual method. And then see if the airbag light comes on.. But i'm just guessing your airbag light is on.. You didnt say what is wrong.
This video shows a yellow plug. I think all acura's have this yellow plug. It is plugged into a dead socket. Just need to disconnect it and jumper the wires. There should be a procedure for that somewhere..
Sorry, should have provided more detail, after swapping the steering wheel I'm getting various warning messages all regarding steering, ie vehicle stability, sh-awd, brakes, lane keep assist, etc. The wheels are lined up with the steering wheel, ie driving straight. I am not getting any warnings regarding airbag or SRS, that is not the issue. Below is a screenshot of my dash.
As for the procedure I followed the instructions to the detail, the new reel had a plastic locking pin that you have to remove for it to spin. After swapping the steering angle sensor over to the new reel I pulled the plastic pin and clocked it per the instructions, ie rotate clockwise to lock, then counter clock wise almost 3 turns, 2 7/8 of a turn to be exact until the arrow on the reel is pointing straight up and then mount the wheel. I also did not turn the white tabs on the steering angle sensor while the sensor was removed from the old reel.
A member on mdxers.org in the following link ran into the exact same issues I did despite following the directions, he went to the dealer and said the fix was to reset the steering wheel reel sensor.
Based on what is involved in the install I figured there is a process required to sync/reset the new reel with the car or worse case is that the steering angle sensor needs to be re-calibrated. Can this be done intuitively with HDS/HIM?
On my corvette, while I was pulling/assembling my motor, one of the steps is to remove the steering rack. You have to tie the steering wheel in place so it doesn't rotate, if the wheel rotates while the steering rack is disassembled it will throw traction control and ABS errors because the calibration is off. Figured I'm getting my errors possibly because of that if the steering wheel reel sensor reset isn't the culprit. Also I have done tuning on my corvette and on my former legacy gt and am no stranger to tuning, haven't had to take my car to a shop other than machine work for any car service/repair in 10 years, hoping the dealership doesn't try to rake me over the coals for installing this mod myself and needing a tuning tool to wrap up the job, if they do I plan on trying to fix myself hence this post.Thanks.
ok, so its not part of the airbag system.. gotcha. But yes, obviously it sounds like the ecm cannot figure out if you are in a skid or driving normal. Based on what you have said, it sure sounds like the ecm is confused. And since you changed the Reel, then that's probably the issue. But the HDS tool for my TL did not have an option to reset the reel as far as I know.. I didnt reset the reel in software. I didn't know it couldn't be reset. I thought it was a relatively dumb device. And I did not turn mine at all. Just straight up! I swapped my reel for a newer model because I swapped out the steering wheel also for a typeS steering wheel and 1 connector was different. But I didn't have to reset the reel. I think there is an option in this software to tell it what kind of vehicle you have. But I have no idea if MDX is listed. Maybe it would give a different option for difference cars.? I have no idea. I think I would need an MDX, and connect to it, before it will give me a menu. You can try to find an HDS seller and see if they know. But many of them are really ignorant. And they might only speak 2 words of English. T Hey don't know about the product. They just sell it. And the software dish I got, the exe would not run.. So I had to find it on the web. And the download I got had a bug. So then I clean it.. And it ran ok after that. So, just be aware if you buy from China, support will be nearly zero. I called them about those software issues and the word clueless doesn't quite describe their level level of knowledge of the product or what I was trying to tell them.. Although, I didnt know how to be more explicit. like; Chad: "THE .EXE WILL NOT RUN"..... Person in China: Huh??? I ended up hanging up on them. It was horrible. If you gotta buy from china, do it on ebay for buyer protection.. Sorry but I have no idea about resetting a Reel on an MDX.. You'll find out that you will be your own pioneer! I had to teach myself the software. It took several days, to figure out how to reset the SRS Unit and the module in the seat. I cant think of the acronym now for the module in the seat. I did it and forgot about it.. The dates are on 1 of these pages. I slept since then and moved on.
so, at this point, what would it hurt to reverse all those turns you made and just put it on straight? If it doesn't work, then redo the turns per instructions... By the way, I was under the impression that turning the reel that many times on a TL would damage it.. But I have no idea about an MDX.
also, did you by the reel new? Or used? And if it was used, how do you know the position was right when they put the locking pin in, from the seller?
so, at this point, what would it hurt to reverse all those turns you made and just put it on straight? If it doesn't work, then redo the turns per instructions... By the way, I was under the impression that turning the reel that many times on a TL would damage it.. But I have no idea about an MDX.
also, did you by the reel new? Or used? And if it was used, how do you know the position was right when they put the locking pin in, from the seller?
I still have the old reel. To identify that the culprit is the reel and not the angle sensor I might pull everything again tomorrow and reinstall the original reel with no plug hooked up to the heating element to the new wheel and see if order is restored. If it is I would definitively know that the tuning regarding the reel is the culprit. If I get errors with the old reel it would likely indicate the steering wheel angle sensor is not calibrated anymore.
The wheel is brand new and came with all necessary parts as it is an acura accessory, got it from bernardi acura. The instructions are directly from acura as well, in their instructions they say on the last page you need to hook up an hds/mvci and clear codes and 'restore systems to normal operation', whatever that ambiguous statement means. I wrote up a DIY on the forum that I have yet to finalize till reconciling this issue if you want to see what I did.
The version on the hds has nothing to do with version on the car. I don't think there is a such thing as a version on your car.. Hds just made some of their own versions and revisions for compatibility purposes of communicating with the car. You don't update your cars firmware like what you are thinking. Just get the latest version they have. And hope it works. Haha its not real Honda equipment. It's aftermarket. So you get these version updates because they aren't exactly 100% perfect.
it all depend what version of hds you have back 2012 when i started using hds to program the zdx tb there was a update that came with my version of honda pcm updater that update fixed the the random bank1lean condition. with the version of hds that comes with honda pcm updater was not able to tell what firmware is in you ecu but tell you what revision by year and and if ther is any update for your ecu
well, I have never got an update for my PCM and I have owned it since 35k miles and it was like 2-3 years old. So, I am 99.999% sure the firmware has not been updated on the PCM. And my HDS version is "HDS-3.012.ISO". And it worked fine on my car. I would assume any newer HDS firmware would work with my "old" 2005 firmware, since 3.012 worked for me. I wouldn't update the PCM with new firmware if there is not a problem.
but here is a good question for you. Lean conditions is common with any larger TB because it lets in more air than what is calculated because you changed the geometric shape and design of the intake by changing the TB. In other words, from the factory, they calculate how much air can come in through the factory TB and they read sensors to tell how dense the air is and temperature. Still, changing the physical size of the TB, the PCM doesn't know you changed the physical characteristics because it's electronic and it doesn't read physical stuff like that. So that is why it reads a lean condition from the O2 sensors on the exhaust. So it doesn't know why its lean, so it throws a code.. Major Point: when they "updated" your firmware. did they do the math on how much larger the TB is? and therefore re-calculate the new air mass coming into the engine, or did they just shut off the warning! haha I mean what update? Honda does not write code for ZDX throttle bodies. So, just how did they fix it? haha There is a right way, and a wrong way. If they just shut off the code or changed the threshold for a lean condition, without really fixing the lean condition, then odds are , you are still lean.. And you're not getting a performance gain. The only real way to solve this kind of lean condition is to richen up the mixture because you have introduced more air. And that is how you actually get gains.. The saying goes, if you want to go faster, you got to give it more air AND more fuel.. You cant just introduce a bigger TB and expect to go faster.. You have to re-calibrate the calculations for the intake , and not just merely shutoff the Code by expanding the threshold which sets a code for lean condition. You see? A right way to fix and a wrong way to fix it.. The only real way to see if you are running lean at this point, since you changed the PCM firmware, is to get an external source and read the exhaust coming out the tail pipe. But you also have to consider reading from the tail pipe is "after" the catalystic converter. And catalytic converters are meant to burn off any access fumes and fuel from the exhaust. Even the 14.7:1 will still leave a gassy smell.. but you wont detect it much after the catalytic converter.. Thats why O2 sensors are usually mounted "before" the catalytic converter.. Anyway, good luck with that.. haha
you might be able to log into your PCM and read the O2 sensors. See if the numbers are still showing a lean number.. But it may not throw a code if they just widened the threshold for alarming on such lean conditions. Alarms and actual numbers are not the same. You can turn off the alarm but still have the same conditions.. For example, consider 0v to 5v. Ideal is running above 4v. And Lets say the OEM lean code is programmed to set an alarm at 2.5v. And you keep throwing a code because your car is hitting 2.4v. Now lets say you fix it by changing the threshhold for the alarm to 2.3v The for alarm purposes, the alarm will not flash. But unless someone did a real re-calibration of you intake, then you will still be running at 2.4v.. And you will still be lean.. and NOT getting any gains.. So you really need to read the 02 sensor reading to see where it is really running at.. So the question is: "How did they fix it?". And "What was in the update"?,
you might be able to log into your PCM and read the O2 sensors. See if the numbers are still showing a lean number.. But it may not throw a code if they just widened the threshold for alarming on such lean conditions. Alarms and actual numbers are not the same. You can turn off the alarm but still have the same conditions.. For example, consider 0v to 5v. Ideal is running above 4v. And Lets say the OEM lean code is programmed to set an alarm at 2.5v. And you keep throwing a code because your car is hitting 2.4v. Now lets say you fix it by changing the threshhold for the alarm to 2.3v The for alarm purposes, the alarm will not flash. But unless someone did a real re-calibration of you intake, then you will still be running at 2.4v.. And you will still be lean.. and NOT getting any gains.. So you really need to read the 02 sensor reading to see where it is really running at.. So the question is: "How did they fix it?". And "What was in the update"?,
for me that was a preexisting condition since i got the car on 2010 but it was on and off so i never bathere to fix it i didnt have the zdx tb at that time. i got the hds on 2010 to see why i keep getting the close the gas tank message on the dash. so the moment i conected the hds the pcm updater said there is a uptate for your ecu to fix random bank 1 lean condition.
certain 07 type s had that condition and was sold to the costumers as valve adjustment for some people the valve adjustment fixed it but for some it didnt. it was something with the factory calibrationg from factory for 07 type s.
if honda has already had a problem with lean conditions on your car, then it wouldnt hurt to see if they have an update. But if you take your car into the dealer, I would pull off that TB, or else they will have a simpson doh moment. And if it is already lean before the TB mod, then I know its not helping matters any...
if honda has already had a problem with lean conditions on your car, then it wouldnt hurt to see if they have an update. But if you take your car into the dealer, I would pull off that TB, or else they will have a simpson doh moment. And if it is already lean before the TB mod, then I know its not helping matters any...
11-13-2014, 07:04 PM
I'm trying to turn off the airbag light.. thanks! And what about all those that say "invalid"? Is that something not compatible with my 05?
