Luk Clutch do not come preset. Come inside
#41
Just set mine using a hydraulic press today. Definitely had to be super careful to not overstress the parts, as they can easily be crushed with too much pressure. I got lucky and found an old top hat laying around and used that as a die.
Here's how I did it:
1) Carefully mount the pressure plate on the surface that bolts to the flywheel (I don't recommend using the pressure plate-clutch mounting surface).
2) Inspect the springs to make sure they are properly seated and won't bind when you adjust.
3) Hold the screwdriver against the inner tab, and SLOWLY pull down on the press lever until the spring load becomes free to move. I would say it had to go down about 1/2" to release tension. (I used small sockets and other screwdrivers to catch any other tabs and prevent from extending the springs in case my screwdriver against the tab slipped; just for insurance)
4) Push on the inner tab to pre-load the springs/inner assembly.
5) Slowly release the press while holding the tab in place with the springs compressed using the screwdriver.
6) Double check that the springs are not binded or caught on anything
For pics or additional info, follow this write up Mr. Heeltoe provided:
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng86.shtml
Patience is the key, GL
OP, I hope you don't mind me posting this on here.
Here's how I did it:
1) Carefully mount the pressure plate on the surface that bolts to the flywheel (I don't recommend using the pressure plate-clutch mounting surface).
2) Inspect the springs to make sure they are properly seated and won't bind when you adjust.
3) Hold the screwdriver against the inner tab, and SLOWLY pull down on the press lever until the spring load becomes free to move. I would say it had to go down about 1/2" to release tension. (I used small sockets and other screwdrivers to catch any other tabs and prevent from extending the springs in case my screwdriver against the tab slipped; just for insurance)
4) Push on the inner tab to pre-load the springs/inner assembly.
5) Slowly release the press while holding the tab in place with the springs compressed using the screwdriver.
6) Double check that the springs are not binded or caught on anything
For pics or additional info, follow this write up Mr. Heeltoe provided:
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng86.shtml
Patience is the key, GL
OP, I hope you don't mind me posting this on here.
#44
Intermediate
Last edited by millafied; 03-21-2019 at 04:03 PM.
#45
Latent car nut
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The new pressure plate in your top picture shows what looks like the plate being out of adjustment. Kind of hard to tell from that angle; if memory serves, the light green springs should be compressed all of the way.
#46
Moderator Alumnus
Hey man. Literally did the exact same thing today, but your post left me scratching my head. Why the extra care? I literally slapped the pp onto the flywheel, pressed on the pedals until the self adjusting mechanism was free to move (you see it start rotating slightly), then I took a screwdriver and with a single move just loaded the spring mechanism, releasing the press after that. The way you described it makes it seem like something really fiddly, when in fact it's pretty straightforward.
Did you replace your flywheel or slave cylinder too?
I'm 120k+ on my original clutch; rather replace it sooner than later. Curious how bad this will suck doing it on jack stands in the garage. Also time to replace the half shafts.
#47
This is what I was wondering too. The tool does nothing more than what pressing the clutch in would do. Thanks for clarifying.
Did you replace your flywheel or slave cylinder too?
I'm 120k+ on my original clutch; rather replace it sooner than later. Curious how bad this will suck doing it on jack stands in the garage. Also time to replace the half shafts.
Did you replace your flywheel or slave cylinder too?
I'm 120k+ on my original clutch; rather replace it sooner than later. Curious how bad this will suck doing it on jack stands in the garage. Also time to replace the half shafts.
Just did mine at 190k and the flywheel wasn't as bad as it could have been. It's always better to replace it, but if you're on a budget you can probably get away with not doing so being proactive at 120k. Did mine on jack stands, with an engine lift and pulled the engine/trans out. If you do it that way it's not bad at all. If you're trying to drop the subframe or do it in the engine bay..... I wouldn't.
#48
This is what I was wondering too. The tool does nothing more than what pressing the clutch in would do. Thanks for clarifying.
Did you replace your flywheel or slave cylinder too?
I'm 120k+ on my original clutch; rather replace it sooner than later. Curious how bad this will suck doing it on jack stands in the garage. Also time to replace the half shafts.
Did you replace your flywheel or slave cylinder too?
I'm 120k+ on my original clutch; rather replace it sooner than later. Curious how bad this will suck doing it on jack stands in the garage. Also time to replace the half shafts.
#49
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Just did mine at 190k and the flywheel wasn't as bad as it could have been. It's always better to replace it, but if you're on a budget you can probably get away with not doing so being proactive at 120k. Did mine on jack stands, with an engine lift and pulled the engine/trans out. If you do it that way it's not bad at all. If you're trying to drop the subframe or do it in the engine bay..... I wouldn't.
#51
I finished installing my clutch before fully understanding what was discussed here. Does this look correct for an installed clutch? I did not check if it was preloaded in the box.
Edited to add: from what I gather it’s supposed to spring out a certain amount when it is installed?
Thanks guys
Edited to add: from what I gather it’s supposed to spring out a certain amount when it is installed?
Thanks guys
Last edited by 04TLazine; 09-05-2023 at 08:29 PM.
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