just installed thermoblock spacers
#121
after i removed the T/B, although i noticed better low-end, the car didn't run as smooth as before (very subtle). it'd been bugging me so i ordered NEW upper and lower intake gaskets and reinstalled the T/B last night. i thought i give it another chance cuz it might've been just old gaskets didn't seal 100%.
sure enough the new gaskets made it much better than before now. i am pretty sure there were some leaks more or less somewhere (very subtle therefore shouldn't be big leaks). i thought i'd share this with you who are still using the old gaskets.
oh well, Acura said change gaskets every time and i cut corners (didn't have gaskets the first time). blame nobody else....
sure enough the new gaskets made it much better than before now. i am pretty sure there were some leaks more or less somewhere (very subtle therefore shouldn't be big leaks). i thought i'd share this with you who are still using the old gaskets.
oh well, Acura said change gaskets every time and i cut corners (didn't have gaskets the first time). blame nobody else....
#122
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by ttliang
after i removed the T/B, although i noticed better low-end, the car didn't run as smooth as before (very subtle). it'd been bugging me so i ordered NEW upper and lower intake gaskets and reinstalled the T/B last night. i thought i give it another chance cuz it might've been just old gaskets didn't seal 100%.
sure enough the new gaskets made it much better than before now. i am pretty sure there were some leaks more or less somewhere (very subtle therefore shouldn't be big leaks). i thought i'd share this with you who are still using the old gaskets.
oh well, Acura said change gaskets every time and i cut corners (didn't have gaskets the first time). blame nobody else....
sure enough the new gaskets made it much better than before now. i am pretty sure there were some leaks more or less somewhere (very subtle therefore shouldn't be big leaks). i thought i'd share this with you who are still using the old gaskets.
oh well, Acura said change gaskets every time and i cut corners (didn't have gaskets the first time). blame nobody else....
I added a gasket sealer when i installed mine. Maybe thats why I had no issues.
#124
Originally Posted by blktl1
I added a gasket sealer when i installed mine. Maybe thats why I had no issues.
BTW it's this the two metal gaskets (upper and lower) in this diagram where it says "replace".
#126
IPS K2 RSX Type S
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Originally Posted by MichaelBenz
Thermoblok Spacer Install Results/Reported Problems:
Name Brand=Self/Shop=Bolts=Time Inst=Gen=Be Brief
Michael Benz=Outlaw=Shop Installed=TBD Bolts=3wks=3G=No Problems Reported
Againstallodds1=Outlaw=Self Installed=Kit Bolts=8wks=3G=Loss of power reported
SparkAF=Outlaw=Self Installed=Kit Bolts=2wks=3G=No Problems Reported
Phesto=Outlaw=Shop Installed=Kit Bolts=2mo=2G=No Problems Reported
mbwmn=Outlaw=Self Installed=Kit Bolts=15+mo=3G=No Problems Reported *Locktite used
Varanelli=Outlaw=Self Installed=Kit Bolts=5wks=3G=No Problems Reported
Name Brand=Self/Shop=Bolts=Time Inst=Gen=Be Brief
Michael Benz=Outlaw=Shop Installed=TBD Bolts=3wks=3G=No Problems Reported
Againstallodds1=Outlaw=Self Installed=Kit Bolts=8wks=3G=Loss of power reported
SparkAF=Outlaw=Self Installed=Kit Bolts=2wks=3G=No Problems Reported
Phesto=Outlaw=Shop Installed=Kit Bolts=2mo=2G=No Problems Reported
mbwmn=Outlaw=Self Installed=Kit Bolts=15+mo=3G=No Problems Reported *Locktite used
Varanelli=Outlaw=Self Installed=Kit Bolts=5wks=3G=No Problems Reported
This sounds like my Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket for my RSX Type S.
I felt gains from it on my car so I'm gonna recomend this to my friend with his 3G 6SP TL. It'll go perfectly with his Injen CAI he just ordered that we are installing on Friday before going to the NE Dragway.
#128
Outta my way!!
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Originally Posted by blktl1
I put a thin bead of silicone between each of those seals and the T/B spacer. I have no issues on low end torquie.
blktl1,
your sig says: "Dyno- 264.7 whp 232.2 tq"
Is that 264 wheel hp after ALL the mods including Comptech SC ?
#129
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by vash68
blktl1,
your sig says: "Dyno- 264.7 whp 232.2 tq"
Is that 264 wheel hp after ALL the mods including Comptech SC ?
your sig says: "Dyno- 264.7 whp 232.2 tq"
Is that 264 wheel hp after ALL the mods including Comptech SC ?
#131
Import and Domestic owner
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Originally Posted by blktl1
No, I actually did not install the charger yet.
#132
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by againstallodds1
You should get that baby on soon. There is a guy Ryan97812 that will do it in under 5hrs. Very good person too, he knows what he is doing for sure. I have his work in my blower, I have seen him work, he is fast and very professional ask AcuraDriver2006 he will tell you.
i just sent him a PM.
#134
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Originally Posted by gman44116
I cannot find nor do I have a torque wrench that will torque to a spec below 20 lb-ft.
where are you guys finding these wrenches???
where are you guys finding these wrenches???
#136
OMGWTF4THGENTL
iTrader: (2)
Got my Thermoblok spacers installed as well this weekend. By my seat of the pants gauge, it certainly feels quicker, but it's probably my desire for more power overriding reality.
After reviewing this thread again, I concur with the previous statement of tightening up your bolts again. Loctite is actually a no-no... During istall the loctite actually serves as a lubricant, and the actual torque applied is much higher due to the slipperness of the threads. I never use loctite on any engine sealing surface... It's fine for suspensions and such.
Due to "heat cycling", the bolts expand and contract which causes them to stretch a bit... this causes them to loosen up (and create leaks). Installation of this product is really hard to screw up, I'm convinced those that have had problems did so becasuse of this.
Anytime you do headwork on a car, you ALWAYS have to go back and retourque after a few heatcycles.
I did notice the car has a noticeable intake whine now, it's actually kinda loud, at about 3500rpm (Fujita CAI). I assume this si due tot he change in the airflow pattern, and i'm getting some resonance or something...
I did NOT replace my original gaskets either... Car only has 1K miles on it, they still looked new.
Regardless... If you've installed this, I'd take 10 minutes and pull the plenup cover and verify your torque specs "one more time".
After reviewing this thread again, I concur with the previous statement of tightening up your bolts again. Loctite is actually a no-no... During istall the loctite actually serves as a lubricant, and the actual torque applied is much higher due to the slipperness of the threads. I never use loctite on any engine sealing surface... It's fine for suspensions and such.
Due to "heat cycling", the bolts expand and contract which causes them to stretch a bit... this causes them to loosen up (and create leaks). Installation of this product is really hard to screw up, I'm convinced those that have had problems did so becasuse of this.
Anytime you do headwork on a car, you ALWAYS have to go back and retourque after a few heatcycles.
I did notice the car has a noticeable intake whine now, it's actually kinda loud, at about 3500rpm (Fujita CAI). I assume this si due tot he change in the airflow pattern, and i'm getting some resonance or something...
I did NOT replace my original gaskets either... Car only has 1K miles on it, they still looked new.
Regardless... If you've installed this, I'd take 10 minutes and pull the plenup cover and verify your torque specs "one more time".
#137
Need More HP!!!
iTrader: (1)
Okay, I did not check prior to my spacer install how hot the manifold and TB were but after install, both are uncomfortable to the touch after regular intown driving. I just checked my manifold: I have not driven the car in 5 hours and the manifold is still quite warm to the touch. I was under the impression that the manifold would be this warm right after use as it is five hours later. Not burning hot.
Any information you guys have would be appreciated.
Any information you guys have would be appreciated.
#138
Originally Posted by gman44116
Okay, I did not check prior to my spacer install how hot the manifold and TB were but after install, both are uncomfortable to the touch after regular intown driving. I just checked my manifold: I have not driven the car in 5 hours and the manifold is still quite warm to the touch. I was under the impression that the manifold would be this warm right after use as it is five hours later. Not burning hot.
Any information you guys have would be appreciated.
Any information you guys have would be appreciated.
Not sure what you are looking for here. Engines are hot. The spacer is just a slight insulator. It will make the intake cooler...not cold.
-Lee
#141
CTS-V Import Slayer
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by gman44116
Okay, I did not check prior to my spacer install how hot the manifold and TB were but after install, both are uncomfortable to the touch after regular intown driving. I just checked my manifold: I have not driven the car in 5 hours and the manifold is still quite warm to the touch. I was under the impression that the manifold would be this warm right after use as it is five hours later. Not burning hot.
Any information you guys have would be appreciated.
Any information you guys have would be appreciated.
Time and place issue here. As I recall....when most of us were putting these on it was WINTER and cold outside. I have also noticed that the top end is hotter now that it is summer-time......but that is to go without saying due to ambient heat present. When it gets wintertime again.....you will see the exact results that people are mentioning.
#143
Originally Posted by Kennedy
Got my Thermoblok spacers installed as well this weekend. By my seat of the pants gauge, it certainly feels quicker, but it's probably my desire for more power overriding reality.
After reviewing this thread again, I concur with the previous statement of tightening up your bolts again. Loctite is actually a no-no... During istall the loctite actually serves as a lubricant, and the actual torque applied is much higher due to the slipperness of the threads. I never use loctite on any engine sealing surface... It's fine for suspensions and such.
Due to "heat cycling", the bolts expand and contract which causes them to stretch a bit... this causes them to loosen up (and create leaks). Installation of this product is really hard to screw up, I'm convinced those that have had problems did so becasuse of this.
Anytime you do headwork on a car, you ALWAYS have to go back and retourque after a few heatcycles.
I did notice the car has a noticeable intake whine now, it's actually kinda loud, at about 3500rpm (Fujita CAI). I assume this si due tot he change in the airflow pattern, and i'm getting some resonance or something...
I did NOT replace my original gaskets either... Car only has 1K miles on it, they still looked new.
Regardless... If you've installed this, I'd take 10 minutes and pull the plenup cover and verify your torque specs "one more time".
After reviewing this thread again, I concur with the previous statement of tightening up your bolts again. Loctite is actually a no-no... During istall the loctite actually serves as a lubricant, and the actual torque applied is much higher due to the slipperness of the threads. I never use loctite on any engine sealing surface... It's fine for suspensions and such.
Due to "heat cycling", the bolts expand and contract which causes them to stretch a bit... this causes them to loosen up (and create leaks). Installation of this product is really hard to screw up, I'm convinced those that have had problems did so becasuse of this.
Anytime you do headwork on a car, you ALWAYS have to go back and retourque after a few heatcycles.
I did notice the car has a noticeable intake whine now, it's actually kinda loud, at about 3500rpm (Fujita CAI). I assume this si due tot he change in the airflow pattern, and i'm getting some resonance or something...
I did NOT replace my original gaskets either... Car only has 1K miles on it, they still looked new.
Regardless... If you've installed this, I'd take 10 minutes and pull the plenup cover and verify your torque specs "one more time".
Still have the same resonance issue? I just got the fujita and was going to install both and read this.
-Lee
#144
OMGWTF4THGENTL
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by asu_lee
Still have the same resonance issue? I just got the fujita and was going to install both and read this.
-Lee
-Lee
Just get it in there!
#146
AP1 S2000
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Originally Posted by gman44116
I cannot find nor do I have a torque wrench that will torque to a spec below 20 lb-ft.
where are you guys finding these wrenches???
where are you guys finding these wrenches???
#148
Racer
iTrader: (1)
Hate to bring the dead back, but thought I would toss this question out.
By doing this mod, I agree it will make some parts cooler thus better gains, but at the same time does it not hurt the other parts that get hot? Let’s think on this for a moment. A part gets hot; it uses anything around it much like a heat sink to disperse some of its heat.
By doing this it has nothing but itself now to disperse its heat on. So while we do this and help in one way isn't it possible we could be hurting something else by not giving it the chance to let off some of the heat to other components?
Just an idea, let me know your opinions. I was about to order this and stop and thought on that for a moment as it does hold true. After all, its how computers CPU’s are kept cool… The heat sink sits on the chip to take the heat. What do you think would happen if you put some rubber or something between the chip and than put a heat sink on, that bad boy gonna fry… And for those that would say well you put a substance between the CPU and heat sink also, that’s to increase the hate transfer.
Anyway let me know your opinions and what you all think this could cause long term.
I want the increased performance, response and possible better gas mileage, but not at the cost of my engine life.
By doing this mod, I agree it will make some parts cooler thus better gains, but at the same time does it not hurt the other parts that get hot? Let’s think on this for a moment. A part gets hot; it uses anything around it much like a heat sink to disperse some of its heat.
By doing this it has nothing but itself now to disperse its heat on. So while we do this and help in one way isn't it possible we could be hurting something else by not giving it the chance to let off some of the heat to other components?
Just an idea, let me know your opinions. I was about to order this and stop and thought on that for a moment as it does hold true. After all, its how computers CPU’s are kept cool… The heat sink sits on the chip to take the heat. What do you think would happen if you put some rubber or something between the chip and than put a heat sink on, that bad boy gonna fry… And for those that would say well you put a substance between the CPU and heat sink also, that’s to increase the hate transfer.
Anyway let me know your opinions and what you all think this could cause long term.
I want the increased performance, response and possible better gas mileage, but not at the cost of my engine life.
#151
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Originally Posted by maxAmillion
Anyone think of talking to them about possibly starting a "group deal". Will this mod void the warranty? Can it be installed on a non supercharged car?
1. Group deal: Haven't heard of one. It's only about $100.
2. Warranty: Will not necessarily void the warranty.
3. Non-S/C car: Can definitely be installed on a non-S/C car.
#152
Boomer SOONER
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Originally Posted by BigB2k5
Hate to bring the dead back, but thought I would toss this question out.
By doing this mod, I agree it will make some parts cooler thus better gains, but at the same time does it not hurt the other parts that get hot? Let’s think on this for a moment. A part gets hot; it uses anything around it much like a heat sink to disperse some of its heat.
By doing this it has nothing but itself now to disperse its heat on. So while we do this and help in one way isn't it possible we could be hurting something else by not giving it the chance to let off some of the heat to other components?
Just an idea, let me know your opinions. I was about to order this and stop and thought on that for a moment as it does hold true. After all, its how computers CPU’s are kept cool… The heat sink sits on the chip to take the heat. What do you think would happen if you put some rubber or something between the chip and than put a heat sink on, that bad boy gonna fry… And for those that would say well you put a substance between the CPU and heat sink also, that’s to increase the hate transfer.
Anyway let me know your opinions and what you all think this could cause long term.
I want the increased performance, response and possible better gas mileage, but not at the cost of my engine life.
By doing this mod, I agree it will make some parts cooler thus better gains, but at the same time does it not hurt the other parts that get hot? Let’s think on this for a moment. A part gets hot; it uses anything around it much like a heat sink to disperse some of its heat.
By doing this it has nothing but itself now to disperse its heat on. So while we do this and help in one way isn't it possible we could be hurting something else by not giving it the chance to let off some of the heat to other components?
Just an idea, let me know your opinions. I was about to order this and stop and thought on that for a moment as it does hold true. After all, its how computers CPU’s are kept cool… The heat sink sits on the chip to take the heat. What do you think would happen if you put some rubber or something between the chip and than put a heat sink on, that bad boy gonna fry… And for those that would say well you put a substance between the CPU and heat sink also, that’s to increase the hate transfer.
Anyway let me know your opinions and what you all think this could cause long term.
I want the increased performance, response and possible better gas mileage, but not at the cost of my engine life.
#154
Racer
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by ou sig
that is a very good thought, but you have to think about the surface area these spacers cover up. it is very little compared to the total cooling area of the engine itself - therefore by using the spacers, you are not going to deprive the engine of very much cooling area by isolating the intake can TB. I have had mine on my '99TL for over 30k miles now and everything is still great.
Well part of that I can agree with but you have to remember, that the small area you take away from the cooling space is the best spot for it to release heat also because thats how the eng gets its air, and the air cools the metals down... This little area you take away is much like the fan on a computer heatsink... While yes you have much area for the heat to spread out on, take away the fan and now its not as cool... Same for the car... Take away the spot that gets fresh air that we all know is cooler than anything else under the hood and you took away an area that actually helps cool things as now the cooler metal is no longer in contact with the hot so it cant help cool the hot.
It has its pros and cons I guess... It helps in one way, hurts in another.
Not to say this will cause the car to die, as I doubt that after all thats what you got fans for but I am sure it helps a good amount.
Oh well, I am still stuck in between if I want to get them or not... I do but I cant afford if any problems happen as a result... Bahh!
#155
Racer
Having similar issues - just these two gaskets?
I've been having similar issues w/ low end torque and am thinking about reinstalling the spacers. Did you just replace the two metal factory upper/lower intake gaskets and reinstall the existing thermoblock kit or did you get a new kit too? Wondering about replacing the gaskets that come with the kit?
Originally Posted by ttliang
after i removed the T/B, although i noticed better low-end, the car didn't run as smooth as before (very subtle). it'd been bugging me so i ordered NEW upper and lower intake gaskets and reinstalled the T/B last night. i thought i give it another chance cuz it might've been just old gaskets didn't seal 100%.
sure enough the new gaskets made it much better than before now. i am pretty sure there were some leaks more or less somewhere (very subtle therefore shouldn't be big leaks). i thought i'd share this with you who are still using the old gaskets.
oh well, Acura said change gaskets every time and i cut corners (didn't have gaskets the first time). blame nobody else....
sure enough the new gaskets made it much better than before now. i am pretty sure there were some leaks more or less somewhere (very subtle therefore shouldn't be big leaks). i thought i'd share this with you who are still using the old gaskets.
oh well, Acura said change gaskets every time and i cut corners (didn't have gaskets the first time). blame nobody else....
Originally Posted by ttliang
shoulda done that but didn't like the messiness of sealers. i spent more $$$ on gaskets but i think it's the right way and cleaner setup. oh well...
BTW it's this the two metal gaskets (upper and lower) in this diagram where it says "replace".
BTW it's this the two metal gaskets (upper and lower) in this diagram where it says "replace".
#157
You reuse the OE lower metal gasket and the kit comes with replacements for everything else- including longer studs where needed.
There is a gen2 thread with full install pics and tips
Cooler inlet air temp is not bad for the engine or any related parts.
Just better combustion from denser air- basic science at work
They are on 1000ss of vehicles and race cars with no probs
Order install enjoy thats it!
There is a gen2 thread with full install pics and tips
Cooler inlet air temp is not bad for the engine or any related parts.
Just better combustion from denser air- basic science at work
They are on 1000ss of vehicles and race cars with no probs
Order install enjoy thats it!
#158
Proper torque procedure is crucial to preventing air leaks, and go back and retorque all bolts just to be sure- things compress as you work