KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

The TQ is trashing the 6MT. Even with the std 3.2 stroke, 4th gear is not holding up.

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

Some things that come to mind are a small engine footprint for transverly mounted (FWD) applications, better than average low to mid range torque, and honda's heritage for undersquare production motors stemming from the B series days.

Some modern v8 engines, such as ford's new 5 litre are also undersquare. There are pro's and cons to each principle of engineering, but I dont think Honda was concerned will cylinder filling/valve diameter because of their high flowing heads. Nor were they concerned with potential reliability issues stemming from long stokes/high piston speeds because of their very stable cast-in sleeves and manufacturing tolerances.

Sure, i'd love to see the ability to rev-out more when stock, but knowing you can rev to 8k rpm with upgraded springs/retainers and my factorly fully balanced crank and factory rods/pistons in the j35a8 is nice. The only thing that lacks is valve depression....soon to be solved with new rocker ratios. Check out TBMotorworx for that.


Oh they are, but only because of that hunch that they look beefier...so there arent as many folks out there as there could be. DO EEEEEET

fsttyms1

You are doing that too

teeeejaay

SICKK!!!

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I think that Honda is planning on keeping the j-series for a few more years to come. The reason I say that is because the Earth Dreams engines have began showing more power with less displacement than the 3.7. Truth is, Honda only made the 3.7 because that's as big as they could go with both bore and stoke. Anyone ever seen how close the crank comes to block when rotating? Like 1-2mm away! Anyhow, Honda is beginning to take a smarter approach to the engine by incorporating technology into it and seeing how they don't need hundreds of cubic inches to make good power. This can be seen in F1 where high revving V8's are making 700-800hp from a naturally aspirated motor...and now 700-800hp from inline four cylinders running boost. Sure, they rev to the sky, but F1 is known for its refinement in technology. Meaning that there's much more power in every engine that just needs to be found and unbound. Honda is merely keeping up in the rat race and competing with others using much less. Refinement at its best if you ask me.

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

the change in F1 is going to open up more R&D for our engines.. excited to see what comes out of it

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

Hey now Roberto, lets keep on topic

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

Who is your contact outside of Detroit that builds trannys?

Also, incredibly awesome exhaust! Any reason that you put the crossover so far back?

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

I love the exhaust it looks awesome!!!!!

Brennan8

saw this beast in person today and dam it was amazing.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Geez, I thought we were all discussing the j-series in here....my bad.

Lol

Hey Andy, does Oct 5th anything to you?

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

I'll spill the beans when the time comes. I was privately referred and would hate to tick the place off.

Yeah, because the resonators which I insisted on using to eliminate rasp ( which as you know is inherent with any 3" exhaust on a J series, let alone dual 3") would only fit in one portion of the tunnel which was the widest and tallest, thus as close to the motor as i could place them. The result is still great and i doubt its caused any performance hit, aside from the fact that the Rotrex supercharger setup isnt on there yet, or when im NOT spraying....which is like never

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

Thanks for the info.
I'm in the process of having a custom dual exhaust made for my car and planned on having the crossover actually part of the J-pipe. I'm only using 2.25" tube though.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Geez, what ever happened to this guy?

Dude makes a build of the decade and then......crickets?

Missin' my boy.

fsttyms1

Agree. Its too quiet in here.

I hate cars

A lot of technology trickles down from F1 but no production car is giong to have a 1.5" stroke, spin 16,000rpm, and make 3x the hp than torque. With the long stroke of the larger Js, you're not going to see big rpm without exotic materials. F1 piston speed is not *that* high due to it's extremely short stroke. The problem with small NA engines making big power is the powerband moves up in the rpm range and a lot of people including myself don't like having to rev to the sky just to get ahead of traffic. When vtec and all of the other variable valve timing, lift, duration, overlap, first came out it helped fatten the powerband and it still really helps with drivability but that's been pretty well exploited. I believe direct injection and very high compression will be the next trend but in reality, everything is going to be forced induction before this decade is over, it just makes sense in every way.

I know this is off topic but it's been dead in here. I'll shut up when the OP gets back in here with an update.

JJH

iTrader: (1)

Mr OP has been busy getting some tires that will actually put that extra power down

Sorry Andy, the crowd was getting fussy

I hate cars

That's good to hear. There's not much else that can make the car a whole second quicker for a few hundred dollars.

fsttyms1

Im stretching fenders and moving to 275s in hopes to get my NA power down. Lord knows what he will have to run to do so

JJH

iTrader: (1)

Are you in a TL^ ?

I don't want to break the news for him, but he's running 275 tires in the front now. Only rolled fenders, no pulling/stretching. Same drop as before on coils, and on stock type-s rims.

I hate cars

I'm assuming he's going with a wrinkle wall slick, right? The compound and construction are MUCH more important than the width. A 215 sized slick will have many times more traction than a 345 high performance street tire. Anything less than a full wrinkle wall slick is going to spin at any speed in the 1/4 at 600+hp especially on a fwd car. Mine is rwd and at that level with a 3,000lb curb weight when I've been on street tire I'm still packpedaling at 120+mph. My friends were sitting at the end of the track and they could hear the tires screech and the car go sideways even as I was going through the traps. Fun but not very fast.

Slpr04UA6

Damn! 275/?....

IntactACK

iTrader: (1)

Andy got the flu shot and I think he turned into a zombie after he got sick.....I believe he hasn't been posting because he's been putting in work! His cars really starting to become astonishing! Wait will be worth it trust!

JJH

iTrader: (1)

Oh screw it, he can spank me later. He's on 275 Toyo drag radials. I don't think wheel spin is going to be a problem for him anymore.

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

now I really want to see pics of 275's on a TL, lolol

Andy is a machine - I really think he eats sleeps and breathes the Acura TL. He randomly texted me out of the blue yesterday asking me to send over some data logs because of something with Flashpro tuning that he thinks we can get some value out of between 60-72 MPH given more aggressive cams.

I would really love to see some youtube vids next year of his car at the drag strip

I hate cars

That kind of sucks but maybe he will have luck with them. Maybe he's worried about breaking axles or who knows what else. The difference in a drag radial and a slick is pretty substantial but it's still much better than any street tire can offer and not many people are like me and run a wrinkle wall on the street.

JJH

iTrader: (1)

Are there any slicks that are DOT approved?

I hate cars

Yeah, I run the Hoosier Quick Time Pros. I know Mickey Thompson makes some as well. It's basically a pure race slick with two lines cut down the center to make them legal. They have a DOT number on them which I've had to show to more than one cop. You have to be careful, if you get caught in the rain or the road is wet for some reason, they hydroplane around 15-20mph. They also aren't supposed to be taken on the freeway. I do it sometimes as long as it's a quick trip but they will overheat on long 65mph drives due to all of the sidewall flex. There are some serious disadvantages to them but there's nothing on street tire including the AWD cars that can come close. I would imagine on a FWD car the steering would be pretty numb. I've been pulled over for suspected DUI because the rear end wanders all over the road from the super flexible sidewall. The good thing is I can run a 10.5" wide slick and not have to notch the frame or roll the fenders too much and the car hooks from about 45-50mph instead of 120mph. At the track I'm able to come off the line wide open for all she's worth but the street will never have that kind of traction.

When I said that sucks, I meant for the track. For the street a drag radial is a great compromise. You give up very little streetability for significantly better traction than any normal summer performance tire by a large margin.

bakers13

what kinda exhaust tips are those ?

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

Holy posts, Batman. Thanks for the love guys. Justin is right, i've been focusing on "putting the power down" and this is via a couple of setups. For the street (and long 1000+ mile round trips to meets) I needed a set of non wrinkling drag radials that can put the power down from roll (at least)...or from a dig (when not launching from 4k rpm, lol). My old street setup, even given that it was an autocross tire (which was great for lateral grip, naturally), couldnt handle either scenario well.

Therefore, Im banking on two setups. For the street ive mounted a pair of 275/40/17 Toyo TQ dr's and for the strip a pair of M/T slicks on a pair of 16's. We're talking business card clearance of the barrel in the case of the 16's, but who cares...its for the strip.

I've been through alot tuning this car by my lonesome self with all the noise generated from the cams. Honda has an ass-backwards way of detecting knock by building a historical knock control value (measured in percentage) which pulls a set amount of timing at any given rpm based on the severity of that percentage after cross referencing a table full of known (put on your highschool science class lab hats here) "controls" for detonation on a multiple octanes as tested before the TL hits the production lines.

Basically, what it comes down to is if you have cam noise (which btw is present on Stage 2 and as well as more agressive cams) its not easy to 1) monitor knock counts and 2)pull timing where ACTUALLY needed (for a catastrophic event more than anythinng....such as an injector failure or bad fuel).

I've come up with somewhat of a workaround for this, but im still testing. I know that others have zero'd out these control tables entirely.

I hope that made sense. I've got the flu and may not be conveying my thoughts the best. :P

I hate cars

That sounds like a great tire setup, I fully agree with your decisions.

If it makes you feel any better, you're not the only one, just about every manufacturer has the same issues. We had to stop using the knock sensor on the quicker of our cars that has about $20k into the engine because of the extremely loud (car sounds broken) solid cam. That means a very safe tune, meaning it will probably never see it's full potential but without the knock sensor you're blind unfortunately.

We had a little luck using various insulators on the knock sensor threads. Everything from teflon to liquid rubber. It seemed to filter the results a bit but unfortunately it's trial and error and I can't remember if you can get the the TL's knock sensor easily.

fsttyms1

2nd gen 255s are flush, 275s are going to need a big stretch. Though if anything im looking to be able to put the power down coming out of corners more than a straight line .

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I see you're delving into the same stuff I went through many months back when I was getting Hondata to work righteously with the oem knock sensor. One thing I realized (Hondata also makes mention of this on their manual) is that the factory knock sensor is not meant to be used as a safeguard against detonation. Hondata also doesn't make it do anything special beyond that and the truth is, works completely different than how an actual "knock controller" is supposed to work. The factory j35a8 ECM (as well as all others) builds something that closely resembles a database that works by an average system. Based on any noise the knock sensor picks up, the ECM modifies the timing by a VERY limited amount but this is done for an original means of running safely/optimal on lower quality premium fuel. Also, it doesn't advance timing automatically to yield the absolute most power while remaining safe but you can create a virtual limit of what timing it's allowed to add however the higher you go up, the less timing it can retard in those moments when detonation occurs. Hondata told me that its a smart idea to add an aftermarket knock control system and tune the knock tables under full boost especially when the RPM's are in a higher speed as opposed to high revs/no or low boost...duh.

There were several knock controllers out there in the market that not only gave excellent knock control and tunability, but also gave the feature of individual cylinder trim. So if you had one out of six cylinders running slightly lean at full boost, it can retard the timing in that one cylinder by any given amount. Aside from these key features, it responds in a much more basic (yet effective) approach because its not being controlled by an average of knock counts or percentages...it's 100% in full control of what to do if detonation is detected.

Lastly, the knock sensor must be calibrated to any given motor...which is why there are such things as tables in a tuning program. A knock sensor is a electronic stethoscope that listens for noise on each cylinder during a compression stroke. Some sensors are much more sensitive than others and because of that, the sensor, the ECM and the engine must all be matched by the calibration of the sensor. This can be tough with noisy internal engine mechanics and will undoubtably cause the sensor to be less sensitive to hearing detonation because the sensitivity must be set high. Generally, its calibrated by intentionally over-advancing the ignition to purposely create detonation. But the key is to do it on the very tip of the arrow so to speak. In other words, setting the tables to retard the timing as closely to the exact time of knock occurrence as possible.

Acura says that the knock systems in their j35a8 and newer ECM's are a more advanced system than all others but I can speak from experience to say that although its better than previous, its still not an ideal means of modifying timing to offset the chance of detonation.

I'll end this on a note of saying the following- the beast has risen from the graveyard. Check her out on YouTube:

dandaman619

you're not f#!king around man!

fsttyms1

Im coming down so you can tune my engine

AccordFlex

iTrader: (1)

Glad you got that 6th gen alive! One of my favorite accords ever made.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Me too, she's been on the table too long and I'm eager to feel the road and steering wheel in my hands with that unforgiving power. I was thinking yesterday about how that starter crank use to sound so damn familiar and when I heard it....I fell in love all over again.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

nice video. I also see that you're a starcraft fan also.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Lmao, actually I was MANY years ago. I probably would still be but I'm so damn busy so have no idea but that's actually my sons doing. He uses my iPad which is always logged in and...well, you get the point.

MyKL

Great job!
Now I'm at the start position - to mix J35A8 block with J32A2 head.
Did you use camshaft, valve, gear from J32A2?
I have in ideal condition the J35A8 head and in doubtful condition J32A2 head. So I'd like to use camshaft, valve, gear from my J35A8 head.
Is it possible?
And the next question:
Does the crankshaft J37 fits J35 block?
Is it reasonable to use crankshaft J37 instead of J35?