Over on the other site that we are on(myself, sonnick, and several others on here). Its been proven that a 3" exhaust will gain over anything smaller. The Borla on my car is 2.5" and splits to 1 3/4" i believe. I plan on running a single 3" exit with a muffler. Still debating aluminum or not.

 

My butterflies are currently deleted on my manifold. It's a P2R ported manifold btw.

Can't wait to get everything installed. My bored TB wouldve been delivered, however no one was home. I believe it's 82/72. George said he bored the inlet to 72mm and tapered it to 75mm? Not sure what he means by this but I'll find out sooner or later.

I'll have to think about getting the manifold port-matched....would love if everything were flush.

 

It's proven but only on single outlet. If it's for the duals, I'd like a 2.75. Since the TL can't redline at 8K - 8,500K like the their little siblings, having a 3inch exhaust is only for the higher rpms that are going all motor. Different story if you're F/I. For me, I don't really care much about tq or hp starting early as I'd like to keep it as stock as possible for fuel eco friendly and have the power up top right at 4K to 7K since people will shift right at 3K -4K in their normal DD commute. So 2.5 - 2.75 would be the ideal spot for mid range power for us V6 guys.

 

^ This dyno proves somewhat that the 3" helped me over my 2.5" setup (well, 2 3/8"). I gained almost 15whp/tq from the addition of the custom Jpipe/merge collector/3" catback and UR pulley. The butterflies don't have any increase really on the top end. Looking at the graphs I actually lost some tq below 4K due to the butterflies.

 

aah so you got the SHAWD manifold from P2R and not directly from Acura....is it the same OEM manifold ? or a little different.....and yes i would get it port matched....

about the TB, the inlet (intake side) is bigger than the outlet (manifold side)....the inlet sits at 80mm and tapers to 70mm of the outlet....but there is a bigggg lip in the middle....hence what George did was he removed the lip and made the taper a lot smoother.....hence giving you a little more volume....but yeah when i polished my TB, it was 81/71....so not too bad....i didnt have to change my butterfly either since it was not heavily ported....but the manifold inlet was BIGGER (75mm) to the TB outlet (71mm) so i just polished it as well and didnt port it.....

I agree with bouncer.....but a 2.75 ID dual would be tooooo big.....i have 2.25 ID duals and it offers more volume than a single 3" exhaust....i think the 2.25" duals should be good for a lot of modding upgrades.....for the same upgrades i would get a 3.25 OD single exhaust.......not to mention the power you will gain from a 3.25OD merge for a single exhaust....

 

I apologize, my posts was a bit misleading. My current stock manifold is ported by P2R. I ordered the 3.7 manifold directly from the Acura dealer on this site.

Swoosh: Do you know the part # on that EGR pipe? I can't seem to find it anywhere. And do I need the manifold bolts or can I reuse mine?

 

here you go bud:

Part# 8...

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

and yes the bolts will fit....what i did is ordered extra bolts just incase....you can always return them for the cost of shipping

this was my order:

16400-RKG-A01 2011 TL SHAWD Qty:1 - Throttle Body (includes MAP sensor, Oring washer, etc)
95701-08060-08 2011 TL SHAWD Qty: 4 - Throttle Body Bolts
17140-RK1-A01 2011 TL SHAWD Qty: 1 - Intake Manifold Cover (includes Bypass Valve, Bore Plate, etc)
17160-RK2-A00 2011 TL SHAWD Qty 1 - Intake Manifold
17181-RCJ-A00 - 2011 TL SHAWD Qty 1 - EGR Pipe
92900-06014-0B - 2011 TL SHAWD Qty 2 - Bolts
95701-06035-08 - 2011 TL SHAWD Qty 2 - Bolts
95701-08065-08 - 2011 TL SHAWD Qty 7 - Bolts
90104-RCJ-A00 - 2011 TL SHAWD Qty 10 - Bolts
90201-P8E-A00 - 2011 TL SHAWD Qty 2 - Nuts
94050-08080 - 2011 TL SHAWD Qty 2 - Nuts
74100-SEP-A10 - 2005 TL wheel well liner passenger side
30530-P8F-A01 - Knock Sensor - 05 TL

 

^ You're the man, Swoosh. Thank you.

 

^^^ your welcome bro....also look into this thread before you order.....might save you some $$$

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/coupon-code-called-swoosh-more-coupon-codes-added-8-15-12-a-858266/

 

Ah I just ordered it lulz. Very much appreciated Swoosh. You are doing so much for the community! We all thank you!

 

Your welcome bro....just trying to help

 

Maxbore FTMFW.

 

^holy crap!!

 

^^^ lol....you have 72/68

i think this is 82/72

 

I'll trade mine in for that!

 

^^^ wont matter without a better intake

rock this setup for a little bit....sell it later and buy the used pnp SHAWD TB

if you get it now you are looking at 450 for the TB and 150 for the pnp....so 600 for it....my

 

 

Sonnick what you doing with your ported intake manifold?

 

The Honda formula for making a reliable 11% power increase:

Flow:
- bigger throttle body
- bigger intake plenum
- shorter intake runners
- ported bowl area (intake side)
- higher compression
- bigger cam lobes (intake & exhaust)
- 5% more rpm
- larger diameter exhaust manifold
- larger diameter exhuast
- Free flow muffler

Structural:
- Heavier crank
- Higher rpm harmonic damper
- Thicker Rods
- Stretch-gauge rod bolts
- Low friction piston skirt coating
- Lighter intake valves
- Stiffer valve springs (all around)
- Engine block brace (to transmission)
- Shorter gearing

Results:
- Power


- Acceleration

 

I'm planning on selling it

 

I measured the TB last night and it seems to be 81mm/72mm. I'm fine with that. Plenty of air

 

its the 72 that will gain you more....as that is the actual amount of air going thro....

 

You will definitely need bigger cams to take advantage of that throttle body.

 

pnp heads, bigger cams and valve opening's

 

I wouldn't worry about going to bigger valves if that's what you mean.

 

i got a extra set of j30a4 cams to ship out to be reground.

 

why not ??? especially if you have torn down (the engine) to that level....

 

Fixed

I have no plans to cam. I'd love to, but the $$ involved is just too much at this point for 1 mod. Especially considering I still want to tune. Valvetrain alone is $600, plus $720 for the cam (if you have regrinds), plus install, plus tune. Take the tune out considering I wanted to tune anyway, and I'd still be looking at easily $1700 just to throw some cams in. Maybe at some point, but I doubt it. I want to buy something in the next couple years (condo or something) so I need a nice DP. Got a 'decent' chunk now but not nearly enough!!

 

There aren't any gains to be had by doing that. The guys in all motor drag Hondas only go to bigger valves if they have some super stroker max-hp race 9k rpm full race monster. And even then it's debatable as to weather or not it really works. That decision is really best left to your head porter who will flow test is work throughout the process and decide if larger valves can help.

Personally I would wait and source some 3.7L TL's cams/springs/retainers once they start turning up in a junk yards (or on Car-Part.com). That will be a good place to start (if they are even compatible).

As for the bit about not getting it tuned, how are you expecting to bolt on an oversized throttle body and intake manifold without tuning anything? A bigger throttle body means more air at the same position. How do you expect the ECU to know what's going on?

I certainly wish you luck!

 

^ Thanks. You misread my post though. I do plan to tune the car, but in terms of camming, I have no plans. The ECU should be somewhat capable of compensating for the increased air given the factory maps usually run a bit rich. However, I do expect a good bump once tuned. I gained almost 15whp/tq from upgrading to a better Jpipe & larger exhaust (I already had aftermarket of both), so I think it's perfectly feasible to gain similar numbers with this intake setup untuned. Especially considering my exhaust flows really well at this point (3" ftw).

 

So is it on yet?

 

I could be wrong but I don't think factory maps run rich... remember, we have the pinging problem in our car. Detonation that is. Either from overly aggressive timing, or lack of fuel. Both of which you should be able to take care of with a tune. I lean towards lack of fuel, because if there was enough, it should at least help keep temps down to avoid detonation, despite not getting enough air for the amount of fuel.

But I wouldn't expect a balance out of more air, since I don't think rich AFRs is exactly what's happening with factory maps. ECU might compensate by adding more fuel if there's more air going into the combustion chamber, but that'd have to be read by the maf sensor.

keep updating

 

Our cars are speed density, not mass air flow, so they don't have an MAF sensor. They do have a MAP sensor though, so the ecu might read that and compensate accordingly, at least to some degree. I do agree though that our cars are tuned on the lean side from the factory.

 

Correct! MAP.

 

Na it's not on yet. Sorry for not updating! My buddy is going away so we set a date for the weekend after July 4th. Needless to say I can't wait.

In terms of the ECU, my fault I meant modded. My AFRs were in the mid 13 range on this dyno. I have an Accord though, so my compression is less. I can't say for sure but I think it's 10:1. We don't have the knock issue as far as I know.

Like I said I gained 15whp from just a larger exhaust and stock size lightweight pulley. I think it's reasonable to expect similar gains on the intake side. I'm also planning on a 4" CAI shortly after. I think combined I will see close to 20whp. Unrealistic you say? See above I'll be happy with 270/235. I'm probably going to do some pulls on a Mustang as well to compare. I'd rather use those numbers. Zzzzzzzzzz

 

270's is what we all are hoping for LOL....

 

So I got dyno'd today on the same dyno. Last time I put down 255/222. This time I added the following:

3.7 TL manifold gasket matched
3.7 TL throttle body max bored
Ported runners (though more likely polished)

I put down 270/227!!! Left the IM butterflies in and gained more torque down low as well. So happy about the numbers

 

Well f*ck me runnin! That's incredible. You just cost me more money Sonnick. I was going to send my manifold to King Motorsports this fall for a cut/port/re-weld, but that plan has officially been axed. That probably would've cost ~400-500. What can I get the 3.7 mani/TB for? Around 800?

 

The intake manifold itself was I believe 360 for everything and the TB I bought for 385 shipped. I think the guy I bought from gets them in frequently so I could ask him for you. However, apparently the ZDX throttle body is basically identical at 79/69 and is like 220.

I can't believe how much this setup gained up top. In VTEC the car breathes so much better. From 6K to redline I gained 10-15whp! The gains from 2700-4000 are awesome too! (I attribute 80% of those gains to the butterflies being still intact compared to last time).

Guys remember I'm also still on the AEM V1, which is 76mm OD, ~70mm ID or so. The TB is 81mm on the intake side so I'm gonna guess there is another 5whp left for a bigger intake. And if you look at my AFR in the first graph, there is definitely room for some impressive gains with a tune!

 

Those are some awesome gains! There was a 3.7 IM and TB in the black market last week than I am really regretting not picking up now.

This is still without a tune right? What tuning options are available for your accord?