Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I forgot about how easy it was to cut the nylon, I ended up using steak knife and a vise. SS line I use a chop saw with wood shingles on either side to lessen the fray. I hate putting that stuff together but it does look good.

I hate cars

When I do stainless braided line I use a chop saw but first wrap the area to be cut with electrical tape and make your cut in the middle of the tape. It nearly eliminates the fraying.

Inaccurate

+1 with what IHC said.

I use to use duct tape to wrap the line before cutting. Worked good.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

Still waiting on my rods from pauter. They are supposed to be done this friday. Pauter had j35 and j37 rods on the shelf waiting to be shipped. We had to send pauter an oem j32 rod so they could take measurements.

Almost there folks. I still drive the car here and there only because I really miss driving it lol.

Inaccurate

^ Thanks for the update Bert.

I was getting afraid that you had lost interest and moved onto something else.

Hang in there guy..... it will be worth it.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

^After all the money invested there is no way I could lose interest. In fact, Im more excited now then when I first had the turbo installed.

I look at it like this. I pretty much have a brand new motor going into this car specifically built for power. Lets keep pushing the limits and get another 100,000 miles out of her

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Bert, will you be willing to itemize what was done and how much it cost? I have a bunch of stuff lined up but after I get all that in, I might get bored and need something else to do

bmeyer

iTrader: (3)

@KN_TL

Prices listed below:

• J32 gasket kit (3 sets): ~$350
• Rod/main bearings: ~$100
• Assembly lube: ~$10
• Timing belt kit: ~$200
• Pauter rods: ~$1200
• Pistons: ~$1100
• Upgraded valvetrain: ~$340
• Type-S cams: ~$320
• J37 crank: ~$370
• Injectors: ~$700
• P&P'd heads + multi-angle valve job: up to $1100 depending on how crazy you want to get. Keep in mind that there is a "sweet spot" where, if you go much further, your bang for buck takes a nose-dive. That point on the J32 heads, depending on your shop, seems to be around $900.
• P&P'd intake runners: ~$380
• ARP head bolts: ~$350
• Darton sleeves: ~$1300
  -or-
• Block guards: $125 + ~$125 for machining = ~$250. Maybe more if you have to have it shipped out.

I left out items like the clutch and ECU since you're already on the list for those.

The gasket kits, assembly lube, timing belt kit and rod/main bearings are a must. Take your pick on the rest of the items since you can pretty much upgrade each of them without other dependencies (assuming you're not going to really push the limits of them). That means you're looking at a minimum of $660 just to tear your current engine apart and put it back together with new gaskets and timing belt.

One other big consideration, since I know you're a DIY'er like me, is to figure in the price of tools to do the job right. Ring compressors, micrometers, feeler gauges, dial bore gauges... etc. That stuff all adds up too.

Biggest thing is just to figure out what your HP goals are and determine what sort of parts are necessary to make those sort of numbers happen. Don't get carried away if you don't have to. It's a blackhole...

As of right now, I'd say the drivetrain parts are going to be the biggest limiting factor at ~500 whp. Probably less, depending on your driving style. It's up to you if you want to build for the future, or if 500 whp is "good enough". I opted to plan for the future. Who knows whether I'll get anywhere near those limits... only time will tell.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Thanks! It's actually not as bad as I thought. Do you have a shop nearby or do you send stuff out?

With regard to tools, I tend to buy them to do it right, even if it is possibly only used once. So far, all tools I have gotten are used more than once.

The black hole syndrome is easy to fall into. This is my hobby/toy so my goals move around, usually upward .

bmeyer

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, it's not too scary when taken bit by bit. When you have to factor in the cost of the clutch, ECU and turbo kit in the same phase, it can get to be a bit much.

I have a limited amount of shops in the area, and anything that is relatively close, is still usually >60 miles from my door. I've have had to send a few (unfortunately the biggest) items out to have some work done. I'm kind of out in hicksville so the minute that you mention the word "import" to any of the locals, their eyes glaze over and they pretty much send you packing right there on the spot.

That being said, if anyone else in the midwest is looking to have work done, I'd HIGHLY recommend Steve at Headwerks. He's extremely professional and has kept me well in the loop at all times. He even took the time to take me for a tour through his new shop and explain the entire process.

As far as my tuning goes, I've still yet to make a decision as to where I'm going to take it. I'm considering trailering it over to King Motorsports in eastern WI. They offer full break-in and tuning services which is great for me since I work at home, it'd take me 6 months to get 2500 miles on it with how much I end up driving.

It's definitely been an ongoing saga to get this thing pieced together... and I'm still not quite there yet.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Minnesota sounds like Vermont. We have 2 dyno's, one I have contacted is mainly GM and Ford based. They commented on my setup as being one of the better ones they've seen. They knew how to us the F/IC, not sure about the MS. We'll see.

The other dyno is at some small shop in a bordering small town, haven't contacted them yet.

I'll likely do like libert and find the limitations of the existing engine and then go from there hoping the resulting finds are not too destructive.

Thanks again for the info and GL with the build