swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ if you dont mind me asking, how much are you spending on the full build....

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

You are driving cross country or putting it on a hauler?

3g-s

ya id like to know on price of this build to
and i didnt know they made rods n such for our cars

meh

Ohh this will be interesting. I also wonder how the sound will be with the exhaust and the turbo. Should be unique! Please document everything and post lots of pics!!

bTwix

Current plan is a hauler. Pistons are in and block is out to get bored. Shouldn't be much longer now. I'll ask Rodney to take pics as things progress.

bTwix

Incremental cost for full build parts (rods, pistons, bearings, valve train) is approx $4K. It's probably overkill for my use, but wanted an extra margin of safety/reliability.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

makes sense !!!

bouncer07

Transmission is the weakest link out of the build with it being untouched. Cyro treatment does help but if you're planning on running 1/4 all the time.. get the Albin or PPG gears.. it will save you money in the end. I would Highly recommend sycrotech carbon sycro's too.. they work!!! If pushing 500-550+ whp go big on the transmission upgrade.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I don't think anyone is producing any gearsets for our trannys. Custom sets are going to cost a lot of money.

I am interested to see what Libert69, Bmeyer or bTwix do to their trannys.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Gotta love car guy/gearhead logic...LOL.


"Honey, my catalytic converters are bad and need replacing, so I'm just going to go ahead and rebuild my engine with state of the art, high end parts and then strap on a big turbo, a new engine management system, stronger clutch, etc, etc."



"Ooohh...sounds expensive!?! Couldn't you just replace those cat things?"



"No, I need to do this the correct way."



"Oh, ok."

bTwix

Car is on the way to Rodney's shop. Should be there in about 10 days.

Doing a tranny rebuild including syncros and the twin-disk JnR clutch. The TL was my first MT and didn't know how to double clutch until I came across SouthernBoy's posts.

LOL. I don't know what you're talking about.

bTwix

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

bTwix

Some nice detail work by Rodney. Waiting on a few parts for rest of the build.

gwiffer

iTrader: (7)

Will you explain the car shipping process?

bTwix

Rodney did a standard tranny rebuild with new syncros and JnR clutch upgrade. We'll see how that holds up, but sounds like it should be pretty solid for the power I'll be running. Thinking of 450-500 HP range, but with forged internals what boost limit am I looking at before things start to break?

bTwix

Rodney sent a couple quotes, I picked one, and they came to pickup the car. I missed the pickup due to a broken phone but drove to meet the truck at their drop center. The guy did a rental car style inspection on steroids, noting I had 100 little scratches and dings (I live in the city), just so we were all clear they were preexisting. They pulled my car into the lot and I noted some covered haulers with race cars on my way out (I shipped mine uncovered).

Pretty straight ahead, even with missing my original pickup.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

damn btwix that looks awesome....

but can i tell you how much I hate you ??? your car is delaying the ECU GB

car is coming along great buddy....cant wait for it to hit the streets....

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Not sure what boost bmeyer is running but he totally nuked 4th gear.

I'd expect bert to be next .

libert69

iTrader: (7)

i heard bmeyer broke 4th gear on the dyno right around the 500hp mark but that was after doing lots of pulls in the 4th gear. probably not enough cool down time between runs.

not sure what mt fluid he was using but im using redline mtl. might try redlines lightweight shockproof next

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Bert, will the GM syncho not work on your cars anymore ??? dont know, hence asked....

Nobles

this build is excitinf. good luck and keep it up !!

libert69

iTrader: (7)

ofcourse it will work but the redline fluid is superior imo. most importantly, redline is a full synthetic, gm is not.

i searched many honda forums looking for high hp turbo hondas using the stock gear box. most were track cars but some were used on the steet.

all those cars were using either torco fluid or redlines shockproof. rodneys 600hp integra with j35 motor and stock gearbox is using lightweight.shockproof

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

makes sense....good to know...

bTwix

Associated info from 04accordcpe: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...4#post13591954

Rodney also recommends the redline shockproof, so will go with that for MT.

bTwix

Any good examples of a custom air intake for the turbo? Is there a significant improvement in throttle response, power band, or reliability? If tranny is the weak link, I could add more boost to increase power and tranny would break before the engine, so would opt for simpler HKS filter unless there's a significant improvement in throttle response, power band, or reliability with the custom air intake. I think I just talked myself into custom air intake to keep the engine bay cooler. Any recommendations?





Note I already did partial UCM:

bTwix

So perhaps 450-500 is too aggressive to start. This is my DD and I'm wanting a good margin of safety without leaving too much power on the table.

From Swampy's thread https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...5#post13616915 it sounds like you're running 380-400 and Rodney in low 400s with stock internals, so with a built engine should I start at 420 and try that out for a while?

What power and boost have others been running reliably with stock vs. built internals?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

With an MT, does heat really become a factor? You are locking gear to gear and not slipping clutches bathed in fluid.

I don't believe he blew it on the dyno, I think he was pushing things out on the street.

Can anyone chime in on what the benefit is for the different fluids in an MT? I am running GMSMFM because of the dreaded 3rd gear issue. Not absolutely sure what made it pop out or have trouble going in and assumed it was due to the syncro's. But that fluid made things much better.

Other than that, like I said, once the gear is engaged it's engaged so I figured the fluid is there to minimize wear. But if a gear is going to explode at 500whp, it's not going to matter what fluid it's bathing in.

One thing I noticed with my recent tranny drain is there was far less gold flakes in the fluid after 25K miles than there was @ 6K. Could be that's the way it is when it's new. Not sure.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

good examples? unfortunately no. i would not use one of those hks megaflow mushroom filters. One, they are horrible at filtering (google it), two, they have been known to literally come apart and get sucked into the turbo.

without a doubt, i would have brain fab up a pipe for that inlet and run a aem dryflow or similiar. brain can do some amazing things with a pipe bender and welder

libert69

iTrader: (7)

From what ive read i different honda forums, people have mentioned the GM stuff gets way too hot from all the friction modifiers and thins out real bad. Essentially the same principle behind the oem honda/acura automatic trans fluid. Its loaded with friction modifiers and breaks down very fast, turns brown and smells burnt rather quickly. Thats why everyone (almost everyone here)switched to amsoil or redline atf.

maybe it was the street, i dont remember. but driving style will always play a huge roll on longevity.

but your right....gears made for 260hp car were never intended to handle more then twice that much power.

bTwix

Thanks bert. Will go with the custom intake and dryflow.

bTwix

I already had the innovative 60A mounts, so we're going to use those to start with an nrg damper, and maybe an additional damper, to help keep vibrations down in the car to make long road trips bearable for the wife.

Not sure if Rodney's going to use the soft or hard bushings. Should have more pics in a bit.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

honestly for the power you are putting down 60A wont do shit !!!

you need 75A or EVEN stiffer mounts PLUS the damper...

bTwix

That may be true. Think we're going to see what happens with 60A + 2 dampers. What's the worst case, we have to swap out 60A for 75A or 85A?

bmeyer

iTrader: (3)

I'll be curious to see what you do about an intake. I was told that certain filters would fit on that exact setup, but after attempting 3 different setups, I was told that NO filter would work on this setup. (And, in fact, that filters were a "no no". Direct quote.) With an HKS SMF filter directly attached to the turbo, I experienced boost surge, and with a custom, 4" intake, the amount of boost I was pushing would suddenly collapse the silicone and completely starve the engine.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Hey B, will a 4" aluminum elbow fit in there? You could mate it right up to the turbo and use a straight silicone fitting to attach it. If you need some clearance, maybe you could ding the elbow a bit to make it fit.

Looks like the original version was better for the intake but the downpipe hanging low is a pita for me.

Out of curiosity, who said the filter was a no-no?

bmeyer

iTrader: (3)

Unfortunately, I don't believe it will. Even then, I'm afraid it's going to continue to surge.

Rodney was the one that told me that the filter was a "no no" and that he makes a doubled over mesh screen to go over the turbo inlet.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

i have that mesh screen over the inlet. obviously it does nothing for filtering fine particles. every time i open my hood and look around at the bay, i see dust particles everywhere from daily driving and all that shit is getting in my motor. No good. On the other hand, the turbo sounds so sweet without a filter.

so far i bought a 4" 45 silcone elbow (about 10 inches long). it angles enough to clear the intake pipe and im starting to tuck some of these wires right now. i plan to get atleast a 8" filter on there and if possible, some straight piping between the elbow and the filter. its do-able, just a lot of work.

previously i have a 4" filter right on the turbo inlet and it worked. no surging. but that was 150whp ago so its not going to cut it anymore.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

They have the V2 piping, we have the original. I see the same thing in my engine bay, I would not feel comfortable running without a filter.

I am running a 9" long filter with no problems.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

It is hard to see how much space you have with the V2 kit, but you might be able to fit the filter I am using now. It's a K&N RC-5148, about 4 in tall by 9 in wide.