J&R Turbo Install - 2004 TL 6sp Seattle
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
J&R Turbo Install - 2004 TL 6sp Seattle
My eShift cats are toast and throwing CELs so decided to upgrade to the turbo kit w/ ecu. Rodney has my unit ready to ship and already have the ecu.
I was looking for something a little more low key, so am planning the following setup:
- JnR turbo, ecu w/ knock
- dump tube back into exhaust and 3rd hi flow cat 200 cell
- wideband, tru boost, plugs
- conservative tune on stock internals
- Excelerate 75A mounts
And retaining my existing:
- ATLP exhaust (base)
- aspec + progress rear sway + nero zero M+S
I'll have an ATLP jpipe coming on the black market soon.
Any good shops in the Seattle area for turbo install + tune?
Suggestions for last minute changes? I was thinking about upgrading internals, but thought I'd start here with a conservative tune and work my way up.
Looking for a reliable stealth DD, that will be fun to drive around town and open up on the highway.
Cheers
I was looking for something a little more low key, so am planning the following setup:
- JnR turbo, ecu w/ knock
- dump tube back into exhaust and 3rd hi flow cat 200 cell
- wideband, tru boost, plugs
- conservative tune on stock internals
- Excelerate 75A mounts
And retaining my existing:
- ATLP exhaust (base)
- aspec + progress rear sway + nero zero M+S
I'll have an ATLP jpipe coming on the black market soon.
Any good shops in the Seattle area for turbo install + tune?
Suggestions for last minute changes? I was thinking about upgrading internals, but thought I'd start here with a conservative tune and work my way up.
Looking for a reliable stealth DD, that will be fun to drive around town and open up on the highway.
Cheers
#2
18psi
iTrader: (7)
Lose the hi flow 3rd cat. Do not need.
Dump tube into the exhaust is a good idea. I had an open dump since the beginning and it just doesnt sound right. Its too loud and will drown out your exhaust note. PLus the atlp quads sound real nice so you dont want to lose that sound.
Whats your definition of conserative? IMO if you plan to have anything less then 400whp then your wasting your money on a turbo kit and might as well get a S/C.
400whp is certainly within the realm of reliable and conservative with this kit and the oem internals.
Excelerate mounts are junk IMO. The mounting bracket broke on my front mount a long time ago before I even had the turbo. We just pulled the motor and the bracket on the rear mount is now broken. The mounting tab is too thin. Go with innovative mounts. I wil admit that the excelerate mounts have stronger bushings then innovative but I think their hardware is not up to par with innovative. My 75a excelerate bushing is still in perfect shape where as I have made the 85a innovative bushing go doughnut. 95a innovative bushings all around for me now
Dump tube into the exhaust is a good idea. I had an open dump since the beginning and it just doesnt sound right. Its too loud and will drown out your exhaust note. PLus the atlp quads sound real nice so you dont want to lose that sound.
Whats your definition of conserative? IMO if you plan to have anything less then 400whp then your wasting your money on a turbo kit and might as well get a S/C.
400whp is certainly within the realm of reliable and conservative with this kit and the oem internals.
Excelerate mounts are junk IMO. The mounting bracket broke on my front mount a long time ago before I even had the turbo. We just pulled the motor and the bracket on the rear mount is now broken. The mounting tab is too thin. Go with innovative mounts. I wil admit that the excelerate mounts have stronger bushings then innovative but I think their hardware is not up to par with innovative. My 75a excelerate bushing is still in perfect shape where as I have made the 85a innovative bushing go doughnut. 95a innovative bushings all around for me now
#5
Safety Car
iTrader: (3)
If you are getting the J&R ECU then you don't need a boost controller. Only the solenoid.
I am personally going to try a 100 cel cat in the 3rd position. The smell is a bit overwhelming to me. It sticks to you like bad cologne.
J-Pipe will be tossed.
I am personally going to try a 100 cel cat in the 3rd position. The smell is a bit overwhelming to me. It sticks to you like bad cologne.
J-Pipe will be tossed.
Last edited by KN_TL; 11-23-2011 at 10:53 AM.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
libert69: thinking 400-420 whp on stock internals to start, then an engine build if I want to go higher. Good info on the mounts, I'll use innovative mounts instead. For a 400 whp build will 85a suffice, or should I just go directly to 95a? On MT with 95a will I notice much more vibration during normal city/highway driving or at idle? I went with the Excelerate 75a to avoid excessive vibration, bummer about the mount snapping. We'll be taking this on long road trips and don't want my wife too pissed off about massive vibration.
KN_TL: which solenoid did you use?
I've got a couple shops on deck for the install, but if you know of someone really good in the Seattle area, esp. a good tuner ...
KN_TL: which solenoid did you use?
I've got a couple shops on deck for the install, but if you know of someone really good in the Seattle area, esp. a good tuner ...
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#8
Safety Car
iTrader: (3)
I'm one of the earlier purchasers so I had the tru boost before I got the ECU. I am still using both except the solenoid is connected to the MS3 and the controller is disabled and just being used as a gauge.
I have the IM 85a's and the vibration is noticable, especially with the AC on.
I have the IM 85a's and the vibration is noticable, especially with the AC on.
Last edited by KN_TL; 11-23-2011 at 04:36 PM.
#11
6-SPEED LOVER
iTrader: (2)
I wouldnt say XLR8 mounts are junk, if u drive the car like u stole then down the line shit is going to fuck up u know, which is what happened to that mount, i know a few ppl who have XLR8s mounts and they r like a charm!
OP good stuff definetly post up when u get all of that done
OP good stuff definetly post up when u get all of that done
#12
Safety Car
iTrader: (3)
I wouldnt say XLR8 mounts are junk, if u drive the car like u stole then down the line shit is going to fuck up u know, which is what happened to that mount, i know a few ppl who have XLR8s mounts and they r like a charm!
OP good stuff definetly post up when u get all of that done
OP good stuff definetly post up when u get all of that done
If you look at the failure point of the xlr8 mounts, it exploited a weak point in the design. If the durometer of the mount supports a certain amount of HP it shouldn't matter if it's driven like a grandmother on Sundays or driven like it stolen.
#13
6-SPEED LOVER
iTrader: (2)
You are talking about people who are not producing the kind of power some are, especially people like libert69, bmeyer, etc.
If you look at the failure point of the xlr8 mounts, it exploited a weak point in the design. If the durometer of the mount supports a certain amount of HP it shouldn't matter if it's driven like a grandmother on Sundays or driven like it stolen.
If you look at the failure point of the xlr8 mounts, it exploited a weak point in the design. If the durometer of the mount supports a certain amount of HP it shouldn't matter if it's driven like a grandmother on Sundays or driven like it stolen.
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phee (06-26-2012)
#15
Safety Car
Even with something as important as a brake rotor. RB two-piece rotors have been known to break apart at the rivets holding the two pieces together. Did this stop me from buying it. No. I am willing to trust that the couple of failures were flukes and that I would be ok. Hopefully, this will not be my "famous last words".
Last edited by Inaccurate; 12-08-2011 at 09:23 AM.
#16
Safety Car
iTrader: (3)
^definitely agree with that. I am not saying anything against the xlr8 mounts, I don't think there are enough installed on high HP rides that are being taken to their limits to determine it a design failure.
If I donut the IM mounts I have now, I am likely to try Josh's units. Maybe go to the point of adding some gusseting if the design remains the same.
If I donut the IM mounts I have now, I am likely to try Josh's units. Maybe go to the point of adding some gusseting if the design remains the same.
#22
18psi
iTrader: (7)
When the rear xlr8 75a mount broke (post turbo), the front mount was the 85a innovative mount.
Josh sent me a new bracket for the front mount a long time ago. Havent told him about the rear mount yet
#23
OP. for the cost a shop my charge to install a custom turbo kit, why not consider flying Rodney out to install and tune?? looking forward to your build coming together..
#24
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (3)
and on a seperate note was thinking of gettng this 3" cat
http://www.stainlessworks.net/produc...gn-3-ends.html
or
http://www.ultrarev.com/144-30000u.html
#25
Safety Car
iTrader: (3)
KN, to confirm the J-pipe is replaced by the J&R turbo piping correct? so it is tossed anyway due to install
and on a seperate note was thinking of gettng this 3" cat
http://www.stainlessworks.net/produc...gn-3-ends.html
or
http://www.ultrarev.com/144-30000u.html
and on a seperate note was thinking of gettng this 3" cat
http://www.stainlessworks.net/produc...gn-3-ends.html
or
http://www.ultrarev.com/144-30000u.html
I've got something similar to your 2nd reference. Still haven't tried it though.
#32
Racer
Thread Starter
Sorry guys. Been slammed. Things are coming along. Will be shipping car to Rodney for install once all parts are ready. Decided to build the engine a bit more. Will update as things progress.
#35
Racer
Thread Starter
- JnR clutch
- Pauter rods
- pistons
- rod bearings
- crank bearings
- valve train
- oil cooler
I opted for a more extensive build than I probably needed, but didn't want to leave anything to chance:
- base kit + ecu w/ knock sensor came to approx $6K
- extra engine build + clutch approx $6K
- Pauter rods
- pistons
- rod bearings
- crank bearings
- valve train
- oil cooler
I opted for a more extensive build than I probably needed, but didn't want to leave anything to chance:
- base kit + ecu w/ knock sensor came to approx $6K
- extra engine build + clutch approx $6K
#36
takin care of Business in
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#37
Safety Car
iTrader: (3)
- JnR clutch
- Pauter rods
- pistons
- rod bearings
- crank bearings
- valve train
- oil cooler
I opted for a more extensive build than I probably needed, but didn't want to leave anything to chance:
- base kit + ecu w/ knock sensor came to approx $6K
- extra engine build + clutch approx $6K
- Pauter rods
- pistons
- rod bearings
- crank bearings
- valve train
- oil cooler
I opted for a more extensive build than I probably needed, but didn't want to leave anything to chance:
- base kit + ecu w/ knock sensor came to approx $6K
- extra engine build + clutch approx $6K
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JD TL-S (03-14-2012)
#38
Racer
Thread Starter
#40
Racer
Thread Starter
Quick update ... just waiting on pistons now, then the build begins.
Rodney is setup in Florida and has things dialed in there, so better to ship the car to him and have it done right.
Rodney is setup in Florida and has things dialed in there, so better to ship the car to him and have it done right.