ssmtl2nv

iTrader: (2)

damn its that bad??

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

^ yea, it kinda is... especially when you first turn on the a/c... after a few minutes, its whatever


when you are on the throttle.... its smooth as can be... but stopped at a red light.... in gear (5AT) ... its really bad... i usually need to keep putting my car in nuetral, because that turns off the vacuum lines

JwongTLS

Nice, So I wouldnt have to worry about a V2 with spacer/gaskets screwed too tight.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Just a heads up we have about 5 of these left on sale. $300 shipped to the cont US We have the 60A bushing in stock and you can send payment via Paypal to excelerate@sbcglobal.net if interested.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

LOL your V2 aint going anywhere LOL.....

Inaccurate

Damn... mine is no where that bad. And, I have the Black 75 bushings.


In my opinion, the vibration is less in neutral because the load is taken off of the engine. In drive, the engine is lugging (lugging = intense vibration) against the load (stall convertor). Same for with the AC on...more load to lug the engine at idle. Vibration goes away when you give it some gas because the engine is no longer lugging at slow RPMs.

hata_61

Just installed mine today, it was pretty strait forward.Everything rattles when in D, maybe i'm not used to it, but i'll have to wait for them to break in. But 1 thing i noticed right away was the shifting seems smoother. We'll give it some time and see what happens.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ they wont break in ; you will

i was under the same impression that they will break in....but i have had them for like 2K miles and i still get the vibrations.....am pretty used to it thow.....

but if you are on 'D' and have your A/C ON and you are at a stop light....then the easiest way to get the vibrations minimized is hit the A/C button to turn the A/C off (I use manual shifting so putting it to 'D' and then 'N' is a pain).....and the easiest way to get the vibrations gone is push it to 'N'.....

Tripnbeats

my dash shakes when standing and the compressor clutch kicks....other than that its ok

ussi

iTrader: (1)

i had more rattles while driving when i first installed my set (75A and 6mt) but they did go down after a week or so. i guess auto's are a different story..

hata_61

i think if i had a 6spd then it wouldnt be an issue at all, it idles fine in N or P but when its in gear thats when i get annoyed. But whatever, they are in and i dont plan on taking them out, so i myself will have to "break in" to the mounts. =)

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

OK, I am FINALLY gonna do this, but tryin to understand wth Al is talkin bout here.....

use a 14mm open ended wrench, but what does he mean by combining it with a 16mm??????????

erick3

i wonder...what's everyone doing about the "1/2 in motor raise" problem? i mean...couldn't it potentially change the stress points on some parts of the motor...like the j-pipes/test pipes/pre-cats that EVERYONE's running? could lead to cracking, etc. no?

hata_61

I noticed that at the end when i was putting the side mount in. I put the rear in first and then front. When i was putting the side mount in, it had about 1/2 in between the mount and the body. the bolts pulled the motor down.

erick3

hm...^ didn't know that...
so no change in stress points?

Tripnbeats

erick, about the stress points.... im not sure about the rise, i thought it was a 1/4inch.....anyway the exhaust wouldnt be suuuuuper stressed but it would be ok because its on hangers....its actually fine i dont have issuses bolting anything together or having to tighten something hard(er) for it to come together when it comes down for another mod. it seems to be fine at least from my experiences. the rise in the mounts helps the wheel hop issue and it stabilizes the motor because the mounts we have stock on the car are liquid and solid rubber.....they tend to sag a lil when the motor sits on it...im sure the rise was there for compensation or maybe a reason thats obsurd who knows lol.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

i used (i bet just like everybody else) the oil pan.....now you dont really have to jack the motor up.....jack the car up.....place another jack under the motor (oil pan).....use a wooden plank to distribute the weight......

start jacking the car down.....now you will jack the car down till the wheels hit the ground or just a little further.....but not till the suspension is completely unloaded.....

you will have enough room to get the mounts out and in.....if you need more room try this....it worked like a charm for me.....

hata_61

Thats pretty much what i did. i used a twin post hoist and lifted the car up a bit, used a axle stand with a block of wood and put that under the oil pan. Lightly drop the car down on the block of wood and watch for the motor to move slightly while the car is dropping. After that i didnt have to raise the car again for all 3 mounts.They were really easy to do as long as you have the right tools(really long extension,3/8 impact,14mm,17mm swivel sockets) ..

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

So got it all done.... Shit hit the fan on the rear mount though :/ stripped the rear passenger side hole... got the other three in nicely.

Tried to tap the hole to correct the threads (only top 2 threads are damaged), but can't get enough room to turn the handle.

Think I should be alright? I was thinking getting a set of Grade 8 or 10 bolt and nut and applying loctite to it as well. But I dont know if I even need to do that.

Suggestions?

erick3

what about people with pre-cat deletes? that steel DOESN'T BEND!

Tripnbeats

i have the precats the atlp v1 jpipe the atlp test pipe and from there to the mufflers its a 2.5inch pipe.... no flex issues or leaking issues. or cracking or bending .....i tear things down for inspection every few months and i havent noticed or seen anything that can pose a problem except for the great rack n pinion honda produces thats blowing on me everytime they install one........but thats been occuring since i got the car not from the mounts lol

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

well well, after a few months of not really doing a set of these I was a tad bit rusty... fellow aziner (hukashi) hit me up asked if I'd replace his stock mounts which had blown... I suggested he get IM instead because of the lifetime warranty

boy oh boy lets just say his stock front and side mount were completely and utterly finished, the front mount literally was in pieces while the side was cracked all over... surprisingly his rear was extremely fresh....

prior to the install his motor was literally coming out of the engine bay... post install, slight movement only...

hopfully he posts in here enjoying his car actually being able to take off from a standstill without any thudding and hesitation

Oh yeah and it took me little under 4 hours... not too shabby for being rusty hehehe... James knows it woulda took me less had I not lost a darn bolt under the trans plastic

NedShneebly

sucks when you drop a bolt and you don't hear it hit the pavement.

Stillhere, can you check the security of stock mounts without lifting the engine, like press test it and if you have a lot of movement, etc...they're shot?

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

Think it was mentioned before put the car in drive and tap the gas holding the brake (ie brake tq'ing)... Any excessive twitch equals bad front mount

Racinghart03 stated that front mount usually goes first, then the side.. Its rare for a rear to go

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

so after 2 months of installation and 1-1.5K miles.....i feel the vibrations have pretty much reduced....maybe i got used to it.....but i dont feel them as bad.....

but I get wheel hop.....the other day a friend and me were just messing around and taking 0-60 times....dont flame me on how this is not accurate.....it was just for the hell of it.....i got some terrible wheel hop if VSA was off.....and a little wheel hop and VSA light when VSA was on......

am thinking Engine Torque Damper..... LOL.....

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

retorque your mounts...

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ center bolts were torqued at 40ish....the bottom bolts were tightened as hard as I could....

So if you meant tighten the center bolts, I might try doing that....but I applied loctite to them, so let's see how that goes....

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

mmh damn so try and go for the etd then... ingalls makes one for the v6 accord which you can modify to fit the tl... you can either drill a hole or modify it

get in contact with josh (excelerateperformance.com)
about it

here's a pic I stole from him

Ingalls Engine Torque Damper
Application: Honda Accord V6 03-07, Honda Accord i4 03-07 - $160 shipped

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

That engine dampener will serve absolutely no purpose with these mounts...

If you're still getting wheel hop, it's due to your suspension.

There are 2 cures for wheel hop in FWD cars... Stiffer suspension and stiffer motor mounts.

Tein basics are not stiffer, just lower...

NedShneebly

I was very interested in the torque damper for my 5at but after listening to what some of the pro's say (stillhere, I hate cars) and having driven manuals my whole life, auto's with their torque dampers are just much easier on the drivetrain, even when your dogging it. I don't really think it's necessary. That's the trade off with losing 5% power to the wheels, i guess.

Tripnbeats

ooooo i got the stiffy i just need those plates to mount to the frame and mount...kennedy why wont the stiffy serve no purpose?

HuKaShI

So it has now been 4 days after install. Thanks to Al and James for the install. I would say that the install went very smooth considering we started at around 1 AM.

Let's start with vibrations. I'm gonna describe the vibrations in terms of a 1 to 10 scale. 1 being slight and 10 being crazy jarring. The vibration in the car at this point is just slightly more than normal when the car is in PARK so I'll give it a 1. When the care is in PARK and I put the CC(Climate Control) on Auto, the vibration jumps to about 4. Although when i throw it in DRIVE or REVERSE, the vibrations go up to a 3. With the CC in AUTO and in DRIVE OR REVERSE, the vibrations can be as bad as 6 when the compressor turns on and off but hovers around 4. The vibrations also get bad when coming to a stop when the tranny shifts itself back to first gear. I would give that about a 5. On a side note, I can hear the engine more now than before(not a bad thing). I guess the stock mounts also dampened noise as well.

Now for performance. The car just grips and takes off at the line. No more hesitation. No more thuds or clunking. It's like the car is brand new. Fuel consumption seems to be better as well? I don't know why but it is. The engine just feels like it responds better. The shifting seems to feel tighter as well. The car feels like it pulls harder. I guess I forgot how well 2ng gear pulled! The mounts probably don't actually make the car shift better but it just feels that way. They are just crisper.

Al will say that the vibration won't get better with time, but some of you have said it has or maybe it's just your perception. I'm hoping it WILL get better over time. I mean, I liked the smoothness of the OE Mounts. But I guess I can live with a little shaking in the arms and ass for a little more performance. Just a notch less would be nice though.

Thanks again to Al and James for hookin it up!!! BTW James, your car is HOT!!! I wish I had the time and money to do that to my ride!!! Although, I give James' setup a 7 on the vibration scale and a 9.5 with the AC on. I thought my fillings were gonna shake out of my teeth!!! LOL!!!

xrvman

Has any one done solid mounting yet?

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

The stiffy prevents engine rock...

The innovative mounts, even in the softer 65 duro, are stiffer than hell, and prevent any/all engine rock...

Unless your inno mounts have failed, those mounts are already preventing almost all engine rock (hence the vibrations everyone is complaining of), the stiffy would only serve as added assurance...

Weren't you the one that had a set of these mounts fail? Any idea why?

erick3

what abboouutt the 1/2 inch motor rise??? -_-

erick3

^ will break precats

NedShneebly

I don't see how if it goes in between the Intake Manifold and lower block. It would make the plenum and throttle body section sit higher...which actually may pose a problem with my CAI that I chopped for the P2R spacer.

Tripnbeats

they failed because the rear top bolt came loose( i didnt locktite it )and the motor rocked the mounts hard and all the mounts had to go back. now i think they have to go once again lol, or just the front one does....another story altogether. Id still like to add the stiffy but it seems to be a lil too high on the frame for the tl. where would I set the hardness?

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Ned, the exhaust system is attached to the same block as the exhaust system. Ericks concern is there is no flex in the exhaust system...

First,
Where is this coming from...? This business of engine rise?
My mounts lined up square as the OEM.

The engine is a dynamic system. It's designed to rock forward and backward under load, to reduce harshness in the cabin.

When installing these, I can see how you might have to tweak the engine up or down a bit to get them to line up, but I'm unsure of anyone claiming the entire engine was raised any amount by thier installation.

I can understand your concern, but again, the engine is designed to move... If the engine is offset a 1/2 inch by thier intallation, so be it... The stress would be applied to the flex pipe in the Jpipe and the rubber exhaust hangers, and that would allow the rise.

I wouldn't worry about it at all.

Tripnbeats

lol