Inaccurate

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

I can agree. I'm alot happier with the mounts now. Don't seem to have vibration nearly as much as before. The feeling is wonderful!

pinina

iTrader: (2)

thanks, but now I thick I stripped the bolt on the rear mount that attaches to the engine.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

i just ordered these mounts (red - 60A).....i have a 5AT.....just wanted to know if there are disadvantages other than a little vibration in the cabin coz of these mounts....i also ordered UR pulley stock size.....

I read that cl's were kinda pissed on these mounts because of fitment issues.....any problems for the 3G TL 5AT ???

mrlunecy

iTrader: (1)

Benefits GREATLY outweigh the vibration, IMO, and I am one of those guys that prefers to keep as much of the luxury in the TL as possible.

I have a 5AT also...absolutely NO fitment issues. Just gotta have the right tools and be handy with a wrench.

StYLeZz101

just installed these after about 3 months of having them sit around. went to the dealer and the tech said all the mounts was busted so i decided to finally install them..only the side was broken....i did the front and side and thought the vibration wasn't bad but after i did the rear today it made a big difference i can feel the vibration..its only noticeable when the rpm is below 1k i.e. sitting at a traffic light..otherwise i don't feel n e thing

the rear was bitch to install wit the procats 3 bolts was easy to get to but the one right between the cat and mount took a lot of finessing..

installing the rear took longer than installing the side and front..no fitment issues here

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

That's right. After awhile, you might even want the 75A mounts!

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

when will innovative make tsx mounts

JD TL-S

iTrader: (1)

I had no idea these would help wheel hop. My 06 manual hops like mad. My other 2 TL automatics didn't hop. Should I get 60a mounts? How much and best place to purchase??? Sorry got to go to work, NO TIME, BYE.

Tripnbeats

u know whats funny even when they busted on me... the wheel hop wasnt there lol. good stuff these guys make.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

excelerate stocks these

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Actually, I'm going to run a small sale on these. I have 10 sets in stock.

$299 shipped to the cont US

That is the cheapest you will ever see these. I have the 60A in stock only. If interested send payment via Paypal to excelerate@sbcglobal.net and specify what you're ordering and for what car.

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

definitely a great investment.. wheel hop? whats the that ???

the vibrations..however, are a bit of PITA... especially when the HVAC is on, and the car is in gear (5AT) and you are stopped at a red light.. i usually put my car in neutral to avoid serious vibrations and rattles

i think it may have something to do with the vaccuum lines... as soon as you put a little bit of throttle on... 90% of the vibrations go away.

the vaccumm lines are designed to make the engine "softer" when stopped while still in gear

Tripnbeats

Black i believe ur right

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

yea, i think just disconnecting the vaccumm lines and/or zip-tieing them shut isnt a good solution.. i plan to investigate further once the weather warms up

Tripnbeats

I disconnected the line when i saw the thread on it and i noticed it right away so i reconnected it and left it...also Allon air does get pulled in from the line it could also lead to that CEL thats been appearing on peoples cars for the O2 sensors....I just got the precats deletes off the blackmarket and hopefully it helps and it corrects the issues.

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

What has everybody else done with the vacumm lines? Are they just disconnected? Has anybody "zip-tied" them to mimize the air flow.....

I almost 100% postive this is the cause for the unneccesary shaking (at least on 5ATs) whle stopped at a red light...

Tripnbeats

im pretty sure ur right dude....mine doesnt do it after i connected the hoses back into the intake. the minute i did it and itr shook i took it off it stopped the shaking. im sure innovative woulda said something about it if it was necessary to remove it.

StYLeZz101

mine are zip-tied

pinina

iTrader: (2)

Mine are zip tied too. The car vibrates only with the ac on at an idle.
I have a 6mt.

Meek32v6

iTrader: (7)

any new updates on this?
I have a bad passenger mount and am considering

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

damn its been 3-4 months these months just havent gotten a chance to get to it yet....now that the weather is nice outside am going to do it sometime this week....

just want to summarize the 4 pages:

install:
1> you dont need to support the motor for the side but you do have to do it for the front and rear.....you can do it without supporting or jacking the motor but the mounts will be a bitch to come out.....

2> you need to take the front fan and blower out for installing the front.....and the strut bar for installing the rear.....side's a sweetheart

3> you just disconnect all the hoses and wires and either put a "nipple" at the source or bend them and zip tie them.....

4> the install order is side - front - rear

5> there are 2 ways to reduce vibration:
a. wait a while till they break in.....ohh yeah they WILL !!!!
b. get used to it

6> wheel hop is greatly reduced, car shifts smoother.....tell vsa bye bye during take off.....

7> the torque setting for the center bolts is 30 lb/ft....most of you just "manly" hand tightened it.....

People of have performed this install can they please tell me if i missed something in this post or if i said something wrong......stillhere/blackura/tripnbeats/innacurate please chime in.....

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

I did the side months ago, and the rear over the weekend...
You about got it all captured...

I haven't done the front yet due to the blower, gonna try and find a way to get it out from below.

Just got get it done. It's not hard, just a PITS given the close quearters. Prepare to have busted knuckles and forearm scrapes.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ did you have to support the engine ???

thats my main concern.....coz i know if i screw up.....damn its gonna cost me "an engine" LOL....

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Yes. Very easy though. I just grabbed the stock jack and threw it under the oil pan and applied a little pressure, (blasphemy, I know the oil pan is not intended to support the engine)... but it was all I could get to and I've done it before on other cars when installing engine mounts. It doesn't take much to relieve the pressure of the engine resting on the mount, as long as you do one mount at a time.

Again, the engine is "resting" on the mounts, when it's unbolted... you just need to relieve that weight enough to get the mount out, and to ensure the new mounts line up. No way 150/200 lbs of pressure you apply with the stock jack is gonna hurt anything...

But the technically correct thing to do is to jack up the car and support thengine with another jack, at the rear of the vehicle, using a mount arm, block, or something other than the oilpan or exhaust...

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

Yea, you get everything right... but i dunno about the vibrations... "going away" my car still shakes like crazy... especially when the HVAC is on

mrlunecy

iTrader: (1)

There was the issue with reusing the stock hardware for the side mounts where the thread lenght was too short (covered in Inaccurates thread). The bolts bottomed out at the end of the threads with the new bracket.

I did the front mount already by removing the blower. There seems to be no way around it...blower has to come off, bro.

I remember the Tech Manual says specifically to place the front of the car on jack stands and carefully jack the engine up with a wood block on the oil pan, enough to remove the weight from the mounts. Thats how I did mine and princelybugs. works like a champ. no issues.


I try not to ever use the a/c now...specially when idling. I hate the vibration from it. other than that, it is very tolerable and I kinda like it. Makes me feel like I'm caging a beast! haha

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

FYI, with a 5AT... pop the car into nuetral at a red light... it SEVERLY decreases those idling vibrations

Meek32v6

iTrader: (7)

Are you guys using the 60A or 75A [ refering to the idling vibration at stand still] red light]

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Man you the BOMB!!!....I just did the side....took 10 mins....and I wrote my first DIY LOL....

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/diy-innovative-engine-mounts-side-only-719786/

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

60A.. i dont even want to imagine the 75A on a 5AT

the 5AT adds more vibrations because, when this car is in gear, it activates the vacuum lines from the OEM mounts... since they are now disconnected, it adds alot more vibrations...

i am so used it, but when somebody new gets in my car, they're like WTF is wrong with your car??

Inaccurate

I have the Black 75A on my 5AT. From what I read on Acurazine from those that have the 60A, my 75A is not any worst.


The 5AT vibrates much more than the 6MT because the AT lugs the engine at idle while in gear at a red light, whereas the 6MT is just idling in "nuetral" while sitting at a red light.


100% agree with this comment. There was a time when I came "this close" to removing mine.... but now, I am so use to it, I don't even notice the virbration and rattling anymore.

Inaccurate

I recommend to tighten the shit out of it. You will not hurt it. You are tightening it against the inner metal tube, so the bushing is not going to be squeezed to death. I recommend 50 to 60 ft. lbs. for the center bolt that goes thru the urethane bushing.

Many Acurazine members have had the various nuts and bolts vibrate loose after a few weeks. The cause was because they just lightly tightened things. I recently inspected my mounts and found Nothing loose... but, I did tightened all bots and nuts especially tight when I installed mine.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

did you apply any loctite or some like that just incase ???

Some one said in page 1 or 2 that at 30ft.lbs they had minimal vibrations.....

Inaccurate

I did not use any Loctite. I *do* recommend applying blue (not red) Loctite however. If I was to do my mounts again, I will be applying some Loctite for the insurance against them vibrating loose. Good point swoosh !

Right, I read the comment too... I think it was from RUF87, who has done EXTENSIVE testing with these mounts. I can see how this would be true (that the "loose" 30 ft lbs would have less vibration). IF a person used the blue Loctite, the 30 ft lbs would probably be a good plan (in hopes of keeping some vibration down). Another good point swoosh !

04accordcpe

iTrader: (3)

guys, ill say it again... YOU DONT HAVE TO TAKE OFF THE BLOWER!!

remove the fans and radiator if you have to. it still beats the hassle of taking off the blower. you do have to lift the motor in order to shimmy the stock MM out, but after that its cake. jacking the engine up from the oil pan wont hurt a thing either

ive also changed my cats without taking out the blower. its doable trust me

Accord_V6_400m

iTrader: (1)

Oh snap how was track day!? Looking at your avatar pretty sweet

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

I have just done my side mount.....i might just take that out and redo it with loctite as well as 30 ft/lbs.....coz this morning the vibration just from the side mount itself massaged my driving arm pretty well.....after all 3 mounts it did be a body massage.....SPA on the GO !!!!

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Couple of other comments... again only my :cents:

- I didn't have the bolt bottom out issue on the side mount (I think), but I may replace them with the listed OEM shorter bolts listed in the other thread. The bolts may be bottomed out at less than ideal pressure, leaving the mounting plate not tight enough... Worth the $5 worth of insurance.

- I'm really suprised the nuts provided on the mounts are not of a nylon locking style, or at least included a lock washer. Considering the importance of the mounts, having those vibrate off could be bad juju. I plan to replace all three nuts with a nylon locknut. Loctite will also work, but I have more confidence in the nylon nut over a long period of time, heavy vibration, and heat cycling.

- As for 5AT's with vibes...:
I told ya so. I put 60 durometer mounts on my VW back in the day, and it SUCKED. It was much worse than the TL I'm sure, as it was a inline 4 diesel... LOTS of vibes. Teeth chattering vibes. I too learned the trick of flipping to neutral to get rid of the idle vibes.

Here's a though. The torsional force of engine rocking are primarily supported by the heavy duty front and rear mount almost exclusively. The side mount carries the "idle" weight of the engine, prevent side to side motion/and lateral torsion and keeps the engine centered. You can tell by how small it is it's not a mount designed to take heavy forces like the front and rear mounts based on the size and arm design alone.

I'd "suggest" replacing the side mount with the stock mount on 5AT and run with that for a while to see if it helps. Yes,. I undertsand these mounts are system, but I can't believe it would hurt anything.

In the VW community, the ONLY mount you replace the is the "lower dogbone" which prevents engine rock/torsion, whcih elimnates wheel hop. The other two mounts just float the engine in place and prevent side to side movement. yes I kow this not a VW, but tranverse engine dynamics are just that in any engine bay.

Granted, this will place more force on the front and rear mounts during hard launches, but will likely knock out a large portion of the idle vibes. For a daily driven street car, I'd rather run the risk of having to replace the very cheap and easy to replace poly bushings in the front and rear mounts every couple of years due to the additional strain, rather than use all three safely and live with the vibes... Those vibes will make you hate your car, and embarass you when you have passengers, as noted above.

I believe this because I installed the side mount back in the fall (on a 6mt), and that's where I got most of the "idle vibes". I installed the rear mount over the weekend, and expereinced NO "new" or "greater" vibrations at idle.
Granted, i have not installed the front, which could be compensating, but this is my observation so far.

I wish I new why Tripnbeats mounts failed... I'm really suprised by that. These mounts are as good as I have ever seen... Bombproof. I have no idea why his failed out.

ussi

iTrader: (1)

^Might want to check those shorter part #'s because I bought them only to find out that they were the wrong part.

I have the 75A's also and the only annoying vibrations I had were at highway cruising but those went away after a week after they 'broke in'. My idle is a bit rougher after I put my side mount in but nothing too bad.