thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I have the newer style 75a and no problem so far I drive it hard too.

Mondo375

iTrader: (3)

Just installed mine today. Newer style as well. Only did front and side. I just need to reroute the ground and get plug for vacuum line.

wdpTL83

Who the hell told everyone to drop there subframe for rear mounts. I have a 08 tl type s. I went in from top. Took off strut bar and went in from top. No probs even put engine torque damper in that way

wdpTL83

Dont listen to acura dealerships. They try to get every dollar out of u. Go in from top. Believe me. I did it. No probs

Elite1982

is there a DIY for this?

wdpTL83

No. I didnt take ne pics while doing it. Just get a couple extensions. U will figure it out. Its not hard at all. Might have to move some vac lines and couple hoses out of way. Not unhook just move around. It was pretty easy for me. Work smarter not harder. Once u remove ur strut bar u will see how much room u really have

wdpTL83

Should have put this in last post. I used a couple extensions and maybe a swivel. It put ratchet about intake plenum level. Then just loosened em. No prob

AT_AT_888

THREAD REVIVAL!

I have an 04 6MT. I have the engine torque damper and slave cylinder delay valve delete. For the most part I love how the car drives with these two mods, but sometimes I get a hard bang when shifting, as if the engine was hitting the firewall or something. I see no signs of this happening, but I'm wondering if a stiffer mount upgrade would relieve this? Since it's manual I'm not worried too much about vibrations at idle. Another question is would it be acceptable to just replace the rear engine mount with an Innovative poly mount?

csmeance

Check your front, rear and side mounts anyway! See if they are torn or leaking! You can also check the trans mounts too. Don't forget to look at your lower control arm bushings too!

AT_AT_888

Last I checked the mounts all looked fine. I replaced the upper trans mount not too long ago. The lower one looks old, but not like it's not working properly. By design that lower mount looks like it would rarely fail. I guess I'll re-check the engine mounts this weekend, as well as all of my control arm bushings. To properly get a look at the front and rear mounts, the covers on them have to be removed, correct?

Buda

iTrader: (1)

Yes you need to remove the covers. I had mine replaced at 138K miles and with the covers on you could only see a crack or two but looked good otherwise. However when I would rev the engine while parked you could see the engine tilt way back when you hit the gas hard from idle. After pulling the engine mounts the front mount had the top bolt hole completely broken loose from the mount so the only thing holding it there was the bracket. This put more stress on the back mount but it was still in decent shape. I decided to go ahead and replace all the mounts and it made a noticeable difference in feel at takeoff.

AT_AT_888

Turned out to be a bad rear motor mount. I couldn't see the tear because of the rubber hanging insulator, but could get my fingertips up under and feel the cracks around the whole top edge of the rubber. Replaced today with OEM style mount, and car drives much better! Especially since I have the torque damper.