i NEED more back pressure!
05 base
05-01-2011, 12:08 AM
#42
AZ Community Team
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05-01-2011, 12:27 AM
#43
Team Owner
265lbs would show up in the mph also. Regardless of the higher than normal weight, the ET and mph should still match but they don't and it's due to the 60' time.
Honestly, I can't think of a whole lot more unless one of the electronic nannies were somehow holding you back. I'm grasping at straws here but one thing I would do when my other car would want to spool slow and load up was a more massive burnout than normal to straighten it out. Obviously the TL is a completely different car but i wonder if it's getting lazy from a long idle. It sounds dumb to say that but for whatever reason it happens sometime. It's DBW, you never know if you're really getting 100% throttle. Do you do any sort of a burnout? i know it's not required and may look retarded on street tires since it does nothing for traction but hurt it but it's worth a try next time out.
The only other thing would be trying some 100 octane mixed in. If it pulls timing which is very possible, it will kill torque more than hp. Many times once it gets into vtec it pulls cleaner with less timing being pulled. This would explain the slow start but decent mph considering you weigh about 100 more lbs than the average poster on here.
Honestly, I can't think of a whole lot more unless one of the electronic nannies were somehow holding you back. I'm grasping at straws here but one thing I would do when my other car would want to spool slow and load up was a more massive burnout than normal to straighten it out. Obviously the TL is a completely different car but i wonder if it's getting lazy from a long idle. It sounds dumb to say that but for whatever reason it happens sometime. It's DBW, you never know if you're really getting 100% throttle. Do you do any sort of a burnout? i know it's not required and may look retarded on street tires since it does nothing for traction but hurt it but it's worth a try next time out.
The only other thing would be trying some 100 octane mixed in. If it pulls timing which is very possible, it will kill torque more than hp. Many times once it gets into vtec it pulls cleaner with less timing being pulled. This would explain the slow start but decent mph considering you weigh about 100 more lbs than the average poster on here.
05-01-2011, 12:39 AM
#44
i am assuming automatic OP?
and if so.....
i know on a friend's 04 base, when you try and torque load the trans to get a decent launch it will make you start in 2nd gear instead of first, killing any sort of launch (sport mode or auto mode)
also with the e-brake thing NOT going to work at all, rears will more then likely just drag as soon as you start pushing the throttle
MAYBE figuring out someway to temporary keep the brake switch depressed (pedal up) while still allowing you to hold the brakes engaged (something like tape would work if it was strong enough)
and when done you more then likely loose your brake lights too, BUT do you really need them at the track though
, just gotta make sure to reenable them before you drive home though
and before you think just disconnecting the switch will do, remember most switches are dual circuited, and while one switch is off, the other is on, so as soon as it gets disconnected there is a very good chance the modern ecu will pick it up right away and throw a check engine light (and YES some ecu's are getting to that monitoring capability nowadays)
and if so.....
i know on a friend's 04 base, when you try and torque load the trans to get a decent launch it will make you start in 2nd gear instead of first, killing any sort of launch (sport mode or auto mode)
also with the e-brake thing NOT going to work at all, rears will more then likely just drag as soon as you start pushing the throttle
MAYBE figuring out someway to temporary keep the brake switch depressed (pedal up) while still allowing you to hold the brakes engaged (something like tape would work if it was strong enough)
and when done you more then likely loose your brake lights too, BUT do you really need them at the track though
, just gotta make sure to reenable them before you drive home thoughand before you think just disconnecting the switch will do, remember most switches are dual circuited, and while one switch is off, the other is on, so as soon as it gets disconnected there is a very good chance the modern ecu will pick it up right away and throw a check engine light (and YES some ecu's are getting to that monitoring capability nowadays)
i just looked in the service manual for fuses and grounds, maybe undoing the fuse for brake lights might help, who knows
obviously the fuse idea wont work, but maybe the ground?
Last edited by greco9885; 05-01-2011 at 12:49 AM.
05-01-2011, 12:48 AM
#45
265lbs would show up in the mph also. Regardless of the higher than normal weight, the ET and mph should still match but they don't and it's due to the 60' time.
Honestly, I can't think of a whole lot more unless one of the electronic nannies were somehow holding you back. I'm grasping at straws here but one thing I would do when my other car would want to spool slow and load up was a more massive burnout than normal to straighten it out. Obviously the TL is a completely different car but i wonder if it's getting lazy from a long idle. It sounds dumb to say that but for whatever reason it happens sometime. It's DBW, you never know if you're really getting 100% throttle. Do you do any sort of a burnout? i know it's not required and may look retarded on street tires since it does nothing for traction but hurt it but it's worth a try next time out.
The only other thing would be trying some 100 octane mixed in. If it pulls timing which is very possible, it will kill torque more than hp. Many times once it gets into vtec it pulls cleaner with less timing being pulled. This would explain the slow start but decent mph considering you weigh about 100 more lbs than the average poster on here.
Honestly, I can't think of a whole lot more unless one of the electronic nannies were somehow holding you back. I'm grasping at straws here but one thing I would do when my other car would want to spool slow and load up was a more massive burnout than normal to straighten it out. Obviously the TL is a completely different car but i wonder if it's getting lazy from a long idle. It sounds dumb to say that but for whatever reason it happens sometime. It's DBW, you never know if you're really getting 100% throttle. Do you do any sort of a burnout? i know it's not required and may look retarded on street tires since it does nothing for traction but hurt it but it's worth a try next time out.
The only other thing would be trying some 100 octane mixed in. If it pulls timing which is very possible, it will kill torque more than hp. Many times once it gets into vtec it pulls cleaner with less timing being pulled. This would explain the slow start but decent mph considering you weigh about 100 more lbs than the average poster on here.
i was also thinking about the sprint booster or whatever its called to see if that would work.
i did a slight burnout to get the rocks and debris off of the tires.
i could of easily test out 100octane when i was there, i could of filled it, reset ecu and went down the track 20 times and maybe by the 25th it would be relearned lol. reguardless if i get past this problem, i definitely want to try some 100 octane and see what happens
05-01-2011, 12:55 AM
#46
Team Owner
its possible, i heard a rumor that reving the exhaust in neutral will help 60' times....i sortof dont believe that.
i was also thinking about the sprint booster or whatever its called to see if that would work.
i did a slight burnout to get the rocks and debris off of the tires.
i could of easily test out 100octane when i was there, i could of filled it, reset ecu and went down the track 20 times and maybe by the 25th it would be relearned lol. reguardless if i get past this problem, i definitely want to try some 100 octane and see what happens
i was also thinking about the sprint booster or whatever its called to see if that would work.
i did a slight burnout to get the rocks and debris off of the tires.
i could of easily test out 100octane when i was there, i could of filled it, reset ecu and went down the track 20 times and maybe by the 25th it would be relearned lol. reguardless if i get past this problem, i definitely want to try some 100 octane and see what happens
What does the converter flash to if you just mash the pedal to the floor, before the car picks up speed? I've had the stator go out to where it brought my stall speed way down. I seriously could not spin the tires in the rain with over 600hp on tap for the first few seconds. I doubt this is the case with yours because it tends to slightly hurt the mph too. Just throwing things out there since I have no clue. The 100 octane is the only thing that might work and I would say no better than a 50/50 chance.
05-01-2011, 01:09 AM
#47
My experience with 100 is that you get an instant power increase.... well, after only a couple minutes of idling. My car is probably a worse example because it's so prone to detonation in the summer that it's night and day with high octane. You probably know more about how quickly the TL will put full timing back in after eliminating the detonation than I do but you do get some of it back right away.
What does the converter flash to if you just mash the pedal to the floor, before the car picks up speed? I've had the stator go out to where it brought my stall speed way down. I seriously could not spin the tires in the rain with over 600hp on tap for the first few seconds. I doubt this is the case with yours because it tends to slightly hurt the mph too. Just throwing things out there since I have no clue. The 100 octane is the only thing that might work and I would say no better than a 50/50 chance.
What does the converter flash to if you just mash the pedal to the floor, before the car picks up speed? I've had the stator go out to where it brought my stall speed way down. I seriously could not spin the tires in the rain with over 600hp on tap for the first few seconds. I doubt this is the case with yours because it tends to slightly hurt the mph too. Just throwing things out there since I have no clue. The 100 octane is the only thing that might work and I would say no better than a 50/50 chance.
im probably going to go to a t&t, even though they suck, just to see how 100 octane would work. next rental is in october, and no one is really doing rentals since its going to be hot out
05-01-2011, 01:14 AM
#49
Team Owner
i cant remember if flashing the converter worked to be honest, i only did that once, then i floored it and let go once the pedal hit the floor, i didnt want to stare at the rpms to see when it hits 2000 so i guesstimated how long till 2k. that launch wasnt my best, my best launch was just hitting the gas, as crazy at is sounds.
im probably going to go to a t&t, even though they suck, just to see how 100 octane would work. next rental is in october, and no one is really doing rentals since its going to be hot out
im probably going to go to a t&t, even though they suck, just to see how 100 octane would work. next rental is in october, and no one is really doing rentals since its going to be hot out
05-01-2011, 10:29 AM
#51
it still has the potential to turning it on, from a missing ground, cause for some reason i think the computer receives the power from the switch when it is pressed (so the computer is the ground) and what says it won't have the same issue as just disconnecting the switch due to missing a wire (the reason for the two circuits inside of the switch i so that one pulls high while the other pulls the voltage low, so if one breaks, it sees that the voltage would be the same at the same time, so it would flag it for a CEL)
so your best bet might be a Zip-tie around the actual switch to keep it depressed like when the pedal is up (once you look at it under the dash, it should be pretty self explanatory), that way both of the circuits inside the switch itself stay at the correct voltages to not through a CEL
and considering it is MAYBE 10 cents for a ziptie, and some of your time, it's worth a shot at trying
then see if you can truly torque load that torque converter and actually get a decent launch without the ecu interfering
edit: if you mean ground 701, that is at the back of the car some where, and is the ground for the actual tail lights (the bulbs/LED's themselves) and basically has nothing to do with the signaling of the ecu itself
Last edited by friesm2000; 05-01-2011 at 10:38 AM.
05-01-2011, 10:32 AM
#52
but either way it still sounds like the ecu is trying to protect the driveline/trans with it's selected method of doing so; IE: reducing power instead of upshifting (just a little less noticeable to the driver)
Last edited by friesm2000; 05-01-2011 at 10:35 AM.
05-01-2011, 12:01 PM
#53
Team Owner
You could do that. Rev in neutral, put it in gear (after the rpms come down lol) and smash the gas while releasing the brake. You don't want to load the converter with the brakes on. Some cars (even full drag cars) are more responsive to this technique. Basically you're letting off the brakes at the same time you're stomping the gas. You can shallow stage so you can let off the brakes a split second before smashing the gas just to make sure none of the electronic nannies kick in and you won't trip the beams prematurely.
05-03-2011, 06:16 PM
#56
because retarded timing is not going to lose that much power, but even then when you go too high in octane you can actually start to lose power because the peak combustion pressures occur AFTER top dead center, due to the slower burning of the higher octane (if anything you should probably try half and half, for roughly a 96-97
05-03-2011, 08:13 PM
#58
Team Owner
Higher octane can not cause you to lose power. BTU content is roughly the same and sometimes more with high octane. Octane is only a resistance to uncontrolled burning or an explosion, nothing more, it does not burn any different. You could run 116 octane in the TL and you would never see a power loss.
05-03-2011, 08:31 PM
#59
All motor
What you need to do is go back to the track. I've seen swings of .6 and up to 3mph on different days under similar conditions. I went back in the fall with my current mods and ran an identical time, yet with a LESS trap speed, and WORSE 60' than with only CAI/Jpipe. It didn't make any sense. My exhaust is definitely hurting me, but not making me slower than I was before the PCDs. Try going back and seeing how you do, that's my suggestion.
And don't even get me started on backpressure...lol.
And don't even get me started on backpressure...lol.
05-03-2011, 10:29 PM
#60
Burning Brakes
Just like Sonnick said, tracks are screwy. Just because you were getting consistent 2.4 60 foots doesn't mean you'll always get that. Some days, for no reason, the track equipment is spitting out crappy times or the car just isn't have a good day.
To improve your launch, you might want to consider pumping up the tires to near max pressure to narrow the contact patch and induce some wheelspin so that you can get into the powerband quicker. IMO, I think you've got too much exhaust stuff and have killed low and mid rpm exhaust scavaging. I'd put the stock catback on and also dump the intake. When you launch or punch it from a really low rpm roll, does the motor kind of bog and then have an almost turbo-like surge at 3500-4000rpms? If so, scavaging is a problem. It's also known that these cars don't have a whole lot of grunt off the line and the torque converter is really tight. It's no surprise the car is a bit slow off the line.
My G's ECU will close the throttle 30% when the throttle is depressed when the brakes are engaged. It's that safety device that Toyota got into trouble for not having. This brake/throttle interlock also keeps you from doing an extensive burnout. What we figured out is that if you remove the brake lamp fuse (brake lights), it removes the ECU trigger to cut the throttle. I've found out that the same thing can be done by disconnecting the yaw sensor (which sits below the center console). Disconnecting this sensor completely turns off traction control and VDC. It might be something you guys might want to look at. The worst thing that could happen is a few codes or lights might come on.
To improve your launch, you might want to consider pumping up the tires to near max pressure to narrow the contact patch and induce some wheelspin so that you can get into the powerband quicker. IMO, I think you've got too much exhaust stuff and have killed low and mid rpm exhaust scavaging. I'd put the stock catback on and also dump the intake. When you launch or punch it from a really low rpm roll, does the motor kind of bog and then have an almost turbo-like surge at 3500-4000rpms? If so, scavaging is a problem. It's also known that these cars don't have a whole lot of grunt off the line and the torque converter is really tight. It's no surprise the car is a bit slow off the line.
My G's ECU will close the throttle 30% when the throttle is depressed when the brakes are engaged. It's that safety device that Toyota got into trouble for not having. This brake/throttle interlock also keeps you from doing an extensive burnout. What we figured out is that if you remove the brake lamp fuse (brake lights), it removes the ECU trigger to cut the throttle. I've found out that the same thing can be done by disconnecting the yaw sensor (which sits below the center console). Disconnecting this sensor completely turns off traction control and VDC. It might be something you guys might want to look at. The worst thing that could happen is a few codes or lights might come on.
05-03-2011, 10:33 PM
#61
Just like Sonnick said, tracks are screwy. Just because you were getting consistent 2.4 60 foots doesn't mean you'll always get that. Some days, for no reason, the track equipment is spitting out crappy times or the car just isn't have a good day.
To improve your launch, you might want to consider pumping up the tires to near max pressure to narrow the contact patch and induce some wheelspin so that you can get into the powerband quicker. IMO, I think you've got too much exhaust stuff and have killed low and mid rpm exhaust scavaging. I'd put the stock catback on and also dump the intake. When you launch or punch it from a really low rpm roll, does the motor kind of bog and then have an almost turbo-like surge at 3500-4000rpms? If so, scavaging is a problem. It's also known that these cars don't have a whole lot of grunt off the line and the torque converter is really tight. It's no surprise the car is a bit slow off the line.
My G's ECU will close the throttle 30% when the throttle is depressed when the brakes are engaged. It's that safety device that Toyota got into trouble for not having. This brake/throttle interlock also keeps you from doing an extensive burnout. What we figured out is that if you remove the brake lamp fuse (brake lights), it removes the ECU trigger to cut the throttle. I've found out that the same thing can be done by disconnecting the yaw sensor (which sits below the center console). Disconnecting this sensor completely turns off traction control and VDC. It might be something you guys might want to look at. The worst thing that could happen is a few codes or lights might come on.
To improve your launch, you might want to consider pumping up the tires to near max pressure to narrow the contact patch and induce some wheelspin so that you can get into the powerband quicker. IMO, I think you've got too much exhaust stuff and have killed low and mid rpm exhaust scavaging. I'd put the stock catback on and also dump the intake. When you launch or punch it from a really low rpm roll, does the motor kind of bog and then have an almost turbo-like surge at 3500-4000rpms? If so, scavaging is a problem. It's also known that these cars don't have a whole lot of grunt off the line and the torque converter is really tight. It's no surprise the car is a bit slow off the line.
My G's ECU will close the throttle 30% when the throttle is depressed when the brakes are engaged. It's that safety device that Toyota got into trouble for not having. This brake/throttle interlock also keeps you from doing an extensive burnout. What we figured out is that if you remove the brake lamp fuse (brake lights), it removes the ECU trigger to cut the throttle. I've found out that the same thing can be done by disconnecting the yaw sensor (which sits below the center console). Disconnecting this sensor completely turns off traction control and VDC. It might be something you guys might want to look at. The worst thing that could happen is a few codes or lights might come on.
05-04-2011, 01:21 AM
#62
Just like Sonnick said, tracks are screwy. Just because you were getting consistent 2.4 60 foots doesn't mean you'll always get that. Some days, for no reason, the track equipment is spitting out crappy times or the car just isn't have a good day.
To improve your launch, you might want to consider pumping up the tires to near max pressure to narrow the contact patch and induce some wheelspin so that you can get into the powerband quicker. IMO, I think you've got too much exhaust stuff and have killed low and mid rpm exhaust scavaging. I'd put the stock catback on and also dump the intake. When you launch or punch it from a really low rpm roll, does the motor kind of bog and then have an almost turbo-like surge at 3500-4000rpms? If so, scavaging is a problem. It's also known that these cars don't have a whole lot of grunt off the line and the torque converter is really tight. It's no surprise the car is a bit slow off the line.
My G's ECU will close the throttle 30% when the throttle is depressed when the brakes are engaged. It's that safety device that Toyota got into trouble for not having. This brake/throttle interlock also keeps you from doing an extensive burnout. What we figured out is that if you remove the brake lamp fuse (brake lights), it removes the ECU trigger to cut the throttle. I've found out that the same thing can be done by disconnecting the yaw sensor (which sits below the center console). Disconnecting this sensor completely turns off traction control and VDC. It might be something you guys might want to look at. The worst thing that could happen is a few codes or lights might come on.
To improve your launch, you might want to consider pumping up the tires to near max pressure to narrow the contact patch and induce some wheelspin so that you can get into the powerband quicker. IMO, I think you've got too much exhaust stuff and have killed low and mid rpm exhaust scavaging. I'd put the stock catback on and also dump the intake. When you launch or punch it from a really low rpm roll, does the motor kind of bog and then have an almost turbo-like surge at 3500-4000rpms? If so, scavaging is a problem. It's also known that these cars don't have a whole lot of grunt off the line and the torque converter is really tight. It's no surprise the car is a bit slow off the line.
My G's ECU will close the throttle 30% when the throttle is depressed when the brakes are engaged. It's that safety device that Toyota got into trouble for not having. This brake/throttle interlock also keeps you from doing an extensive burnout. What we figured out is that if you remove the brake lamp fuse (brake lights), it removes the ECU trigger to cut the throttle. I've found out that the same thing can be done by disconnecting the yaw sensor (which sits below the center console). Disconnecting this sensor completely turns off traction control and VDC. It might be something you guys might want to look at. The worst thing that could happen is a few codes or lights might come on.
tomorrow i will pull the fuse for the brake lights and see what happens.
this was my 2nd time at the track where my car has had a 2.4+ 60'. last time my trap was lower and the et was higher. at first i thought that it was just the weather the first time because it was humid, the 2nd time it wasnt at all so i ruled that out.
i would like to avoid putting the OEM exhaust back on. i was contemplating several things:
1) making my own high flow cats, and reusing the cast parts of the pcd's
2) doing a completely custom exhaust from the pcd's back to make it flow better and maybe dual 2.25 piping with a true xpipe.
3) hacking up the jpipe to add a highflow cat.
speaking of flex pipes, do we really need them? every other car i did an exhaust on does not have flex pipes.
also not sure if it matter but im going to do type f tranny fluid also.
but before any of that, im going to do the mdx spacer basically for shits and giggles as hopefully a band aid fix
i think the switch under center console is alittle too much work than what its worth. if my car was supercharged or turbo, i would definitely do that and add a switch in the glove box to cut it on and off. i believe the turbo guys will get much better use that us NA folks
Last edited by greco9885; 05-04-2011 at 01:24 AM.
05-04-2011, 01:23 AM
#63
Instructor
05-04-2011, 01:36 AM
#65
here are 2 videos i made today.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZSX4OZMSl8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwysoXyYBlk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZSX4OZMSl8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwysoXyYBlk
05-04-2011, 08:47 AM
#66
That seems really slow to me... Almost like your rpm's climb but your mph doesnt.. From low speeds I am dead even with a type-with exhaust so yOur car should pull something like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSymH...e_gdata_player
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSymH...e_gdata_player
05-04-2011, 09:01 AM
#67
All motor
I can't see the videos since I'm at work, but I think the Greddy exhaust may be hurting you as well. It's really not a performance exhaust given the pipe diameter.
I am getting a custom Jpipe with a venturi collector made using 2 Patriot Exhaust H7251 reducers as the 'venturi' section. It was supposed to get done last week but the shop didn't have any reducers. I ordered them and they should be here tonight. I have an appointment Saturday to get it done, so hopefully it will actually get done this time. I will give my initial impressions afterward and will put it on the dyno shortly after.
You're on Long Island and you've told me where, but I forget. I'm gonna get dyno'd at NRG tech again soon after my install. You wanna get dyno'd as well?
Phee: When did you trap 103-104? Last time you said you trapped 101.
I am getting a custom Jpipe with a venturi collector made using 2 Patriot Exhaust H7251 reducers as the 'venturi' section. It was supposed to get done last week but the shop didn't have any reducers. I ordered them and they should be here tonight. I have an appointment Saturday to get it done, so hopefully it will actually get done this time. I will give my initial impressions afterward and will put it on the dyno shortly after.
You're on Long Island and you've told me where, but I forget. I'm gonna get dyno'd at NRG tech again soon after my install. You wanna get dyno'd as well?
Phee: When did you trap 103-104? Last time you said you trapped 101.
05-04-2011, 09:29 AM
#68
Three Wheelin'
I need to hit the track and see why my car puts down... you could get a S/C, i have no problems with launching other then wheel spin hahaha. But i am interested to see what the MDX spacer does for you, i have one sitting in my garage that i cant use because you cant get it to work with the S/C. Good luck!
05-04-2011, 09:36 AM
#69
I can't see the videos since I'm at work, but I think the Greddy exhaust may be hurting you as well. It's really not a performance exhaust given the pipe diameter.
I am getting a custom Jpipe with a venturi collector made using 2 Patriot Exhaust H7251 reducers as the 'venturi' section. It was supposed to get done last week but the shop didn't have any reducers. I ordered them and they should be here tonight. I have an appointment Saturday to get it done, so hopefully it will actually get done this time. I will give my initial impressions afterward and will put it on the dyno shortly after.
You're on Long Island and you've told me where, but I forget. I'm gonna get dyno'd at NRG tech again soon after my install. You wanna get dyno'd as well?
Phee: When did you trap 103-104? Last time you said you trapped 101.
I am getting a custom Jpipe with a venturi collector made using 2 Patriot Exhaust H7251 reducers as the 'venturi' section. It was supposed to get done last week but the shop didn't have any reducers. I ordered them and they should be here tonight. I have an appointment Saturday to get it done, so hopefully it will actually get done this time. I will give my initial impressions afterward and will put it on the dyno shortly after.
You're on Long Island and you've told me where, but I forget. I'm gonna get dyno'd at NRG tech again soon after my install. You wanna get dyno'd as well?
Phee: When did you trap 103-104? Last time you said you trapped 101.
05-04-2011, 09:50 AM
#70
All motor
You want to get dyno'd?
In regards to your trap/ET/60' not matching up, I think they match just fine. You had a 2.41 60' and ran 14.6. If you drop that down to a 2.2 that's a 14.2-14.3 @~100. You drop out of VTEC on every shift with the 5AT as far as I know, which also hurts you. 14.2 @100 with a 2.2 60' sounds about right to me. Especially since you say you are 6'5 and 250.
05-04-2011, 10:20 AM
#71
I've never measured it, but I heard it was only 2.36in at the midpipe, and went down to 1.75 at the mufflers. If I heard wrong then 00ps. If it's truly 2.5in then it isn't hurting you at all.
You want to get dyno'd?
In regards to your trap/ET/60' not matching up, I think they match just fine. You had a 2.41 60' and ran 14.6. If you drop that down to a 2.2 that's a 14.2-14.3 @~100. You drop out of VTEC on every shift with the 5AT as far as I know, which also hurts you. 14.2 @100 with a 2.2 60' sounds about right to me. Especially since you say you are 6'5 and 250.
You want to get dyno'd?
In regards to your trap/ET/60' not matching up, I think they match just fine. You had a 2.41 60' and ran 14.6. If you drop that down to a 2.2 that's a 14.2-14.3 @~100. You drop out of VTEC on every shift with the 5AT as far as I know, which also hurts you. 14.2 @100 with a 2.2 60' sounds about right to me. Especially since you say you are 6'5 and 250.
05-04-2011, 10:53 AM
#72
Burning Brakes
We're not recalibrating anything, we're just pulling a plug or fuse. When I pull the brake lamp fuse, the brake light comes on. When I put it back in, it goes off. When I disconnect the yaw sensor, the ABS, traction control, and VDC lights come on. Plug the sensor back in and they go off. I would assume the TL would behave about the same, possibly throwing a check engine light too, but all that should be cleared by disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery.
05-04-2011, 10:56 AM
#73
yes for the engine (and even then some cars nowadays disconnecting the battery won't even clear codes, gotta use a scan tool)
but this is the ABS/VSA system, so honda can do whatever they please with it as far as what happens with codes and such
and when the power is reconnect the it still does not self-recalibrate, so you gotta tell it to do so with a scan tool instead
pm'ing
but this is the ABS/VSA system, so honda can do whatever they please with it as far as what happens with codes and such
and when the power is reconnect the it still does not self-recalibrate, so you gotta tell it to do so with a scan tool instead
pm'ing
05-04-2011, 02:14 PM
#74
All motor
Phee your car moves man. 1st gear really loads quick and 3rd pulls hard. 
05-04-2011, 02:17 PM
#75
Team Owner
05-04-2011, 10:31 PM
#77
All motor
05-05-2011, 02:39 PM
#78
launch at higher rpms so you won't bog down. No wheel spin and that slow of a 60' means your rpms plumeted most likely. Air down and launch around 4500-5000 and pin it(auto?)
05-06-2011, 09:19 PM
#80
i pulled fuse #13 and it launched alot better.
but i need to pull 17 and 18 to completely deactivate the VSA. in the video you can still hear it kicking on. i believe with all 3 fuses removed i will launch very well, and with the addition of the MDX spacer i only suspect it will continue to improve
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgdmO36CLV4
but i need to pull 17 and 18 to completely deactivate the VSA. in the video you can still hear it kicking on. i believe with all 3 fuses removed i will launch very well, and with the addition of the MDX spacer i only suspect it will continue to improve
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgdmO36CLV4