Heavy Duty Torque Converter from Dr.Evil
09-05-2006, 05:14 PM
#1
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Heavy Duty Torque Converter from Dr.Evil
So I decided I will send a torque converter to Dr.Evil for them to work on.
Turn around time is around 2 to 3 weeks which includes shipping.
I am going to order a new torque converter and send it to them directly so I don't have to have any down time with my car.
So if anyone is interested in having a heavy duty torque converter for their TL, especailly the ones with supercharger, my torque converter is up for sale.
According to Dr.Evil, the torque converter upgrade is going to be $510 which includes UPS shipping charges.
Or maybe we could get a better price if more people are interested!
Turn around time is around 2 to 3 weeks which includes shipping.
I am going to order a new torque converter and send it to them directly so I don't have to have any down time with my car.
So if anyone is interested in having a heavy duty torque converter for their TL, especailly the ones with supercharger, my torque converter is up for sale.
According to Dr.Evil, the torque converter upgrade is going to be $510 which includes UPS shipping charges.
Or maybe we could get a better price if more people are interested!
09-05-2006, 08:55 PM
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According to Acuraoemparts.com the torque converter is $470. So if you don't want to send them your torque converter that's on the car, then you would have to get a new one and add $510 on top of that.
Or if anyone is interested, I will be selling my used one for around $250. It's very new as my car is only 2 months old.
Or if anyone is interested, I will be selling my used one for around $250. It's very new as my car is only 2 months old.
09-05-2006, 11:03 PM
#6
use www.oemacuraparts.com
torque converter there is $441.28, plus lance is awesome and will take care of you.
p.s. i wouldnt alter stall speed.
torque converter there is $441.28, plus lance is awesome and will take care of you.
p.s. i wouldnt alter stall speed.
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09-14-2006, 11:51 AM
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prob around 2500 rpm... someone wanna do the test?
heavy on the brakes and ebrake up, then shift into drive and put the pedal to the metal! dont do it for more than 5 seconds.
and let the engine idle for a few min so the coolant cools the converter.
heavy on the brakes and ebrake up, then shift into drive and put the pedal to the metal! dont do it for more than 5 seconds.
and let the engine idle for a few min so the coolant cools the converter.
09-14-2006, 03:00 PM
#10
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what will upgrading the torque conveter do? Sorry for the noob question.
09-14-2006, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by csmeance
what will upgrading the torque conveter do? Sorry for the noob question.
and then upgrading it tooooo... say 4000rpm
doing a drag with the higher stall speed (4000rpm) would be faster than the stock 2500rpm because at 4000rpm the engine is producing alot more power than at 2500rpm.
so you start off the line with more power = fast 1/4 mile time.. not counting in the fact if you can get your tires to plant that power to the ground.
09-14-2006, 05:18 PM
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Basically it is a more efficient and heavy duty unit. More efficient as in less power loss through the torque converter equals more power to the wheels. Also a less efficient unit will generate less heat. The unit will be furnace blazed and with a stronger lockup clutch.
You have the choice of stall speed, you can keep it at the stock OEM stall speed or increase the stall speed for better pick up and 1/4mile time.
You have the choice of stall speed, you can keep it at the stock OEM stall speed or increase the stall speed for better pick up and 1/4mile time.
09-15-2006, 09:15 AM
#16
basically, the higher the stall RPM, the more slippage the torque converter experiences. this means the torque converter will be less effecient as the the load on it increase. this also translates into heat buildup. remember, to allow the torque converter stall to be higher, it must be allowed to slip more. ask dr. evil about it, it's a common issue, and unless you are running a drag car, i'd recommend leaving your stock stall on your acura TL. the torque converter you will get from him will be a tighter stronger converter. this means same stall, but stronger and less heat build up.
09-15-2006, 02:44 PM
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doesnt something mechanical lock the converter and trans to the engine.. forgot the name of the object... so y would there be power lost in the top end if its locked together.. it doesnt slip if its moving at such a speed.
09-16-2006, 12:13 PM
#20
About the only thing i've read in this thread that's accurate is "leave the stall alone." These converters are fine as I've never heard of issues with them. If you change the converter to stall at a higher rpm, you'll possibly run into more problems than I couldn't possibly think of.
One issue to consider is if you change the stall to say 3500 or 3000, think about your gas milage. Your cruising at 65 mph and normally your rpm are 2500 give or take a few. Your torque converter won't be locked up therefore spinning more R's to hold the same speed.
Think about daily driving from light to light, you'll be spinning 3500 rpm to get the car moving. In the days when muscle cars roamed the streets with built motors and small converters, (gas below the dollar mark) you could always tell who had a stall and who didn't. The car would move with the motor revving it's guts out. The high stall was made for the radical cams that had issues idleing at a stop in gear as well as letting the motor get to an rpm where the cam would work it's best, in it's power curve. It helped make the radical cam street cars more streetable. Also, who knows what the ecu is going to do with a new converter with this stall.
The stall of the new converter depends on a few things, weight of car, torque motor puts out. there are three measurement to stall, true stall, foot brake stall and flash stall. it gets lengthy to explain.
Bottom line, I'd just leave it alone and save the money for other performace gizzmo's. I don't think it's a good idea.
One issue to consider is if you change the stall to say 3500 or 3000, think about your gas milage. Your cruising at 65 mph and normally your rpm are 2500 give or take a few. Your torque converter won't be locked up therefore spinning more R's to hold the same speed.
Think about daily driving from light to light, you'll be spinning 3500 rpm to get the car moving. In the days when muscle cars roamed the streets with built motors and small converters, (gas below the dollar mark) you could always tell who had a stall and who didn't. The car would move with the motor revving it's guts out. The high stall was made for the radical cams that had issues idleing at a stop in gear as well as letting the motor get to an rpm where the cam would work it's best, in it's power curve. It helped make the radical cam street cars more streetable. Also, who knows what the ecu is going to do with a new converter with this stall.
The stall of the new converter depends on a few things, weight of car, torque motor puts out. there are three measurement to stall, true stall, foot brake stall and flash stall. it gets lengthy to explain.
Bottom line, I'd just leave it alone and save the money for other performace gizzmo's. I don't think it's a good idea.
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#1ACtl (06-17-2022)
09-18-2006, 06:38 AM
#22
with my beefed up converter i notice it takes about 500 more RPMs to legit get the car moving. if i leave my foot off the pedal i will barely creep. and if i'm on any kind of incline at all i can leave my foot off the gas and the car won't move at all. it's hasnt been impractical it just takes a TINY bit higher rev to get the car really moving.
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