PCV Valve Question?
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
PCV Valve Question?
I was thinking about removing it from the car, but wanting to know from members, would this be beneficial or would it hurt the car?
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lemmy28 (08-10-2020)
#2
positive crankcase ventilation is to pass partially and unburt fuel and oil vapors and ring blowbye, sends them to the TB inlet pipe to go thru the combustion process again
Reduces crud into the cat and air
If you remove it you must put a catch can with internal sponge to grab the oil/vapors and clean the thing often. (as seen on old chevy v8 oil caps)
Overpressure in the engine from a clogged PCV would be a disaster
If you are track racing every day- make the change
Street drivers leave it alone- its a smog device subject to fed laws against removal
Reduces crud into the cat and air
If you remove it you must put a catch can with internal sponge to grab the oil/vapors and clean the thing often. (as seen on old chevy v8 oil caps)
Overpressure in the engine from a clogged PCV would be a disaster
If you are track racing every day- make the change
Street drivers leave it alone- its a smog device subject to fed laws against removal
The following users liked this post:
nist7 (10-25-2016)
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#8
Safety Car
#10
Instructor
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Little Rock, AR
Age: 46
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Yep, on the 3G TL, its on the front valve cover on the pass side. Held on with one bolt then some o-rings. Mine didn't rattle anymore before I replaced it. I didn't notice any difference though. Maybe the intake will stay cleaner? Maybe not??
#13
Team Owner
It's very important over the life of the car to keep acids and crap reduced in the crank case. The ultimate solution is to install a filter/seperator and then routh it back into the stock location. At that point the intake tract is only seeing clean air and not oil/fuel vapors. You do need it for proper circulation of crancase vapors.
I don't run a PCV on my other car, just open breathers and I change the oil every 1,000 miles partially because of this.
For those of you with the black intake tract, what kind of oil are you running? I've been running the Amsoil ACD for most of the car's life which is a grp IV/V and my intake still looks new.
I don't run a PCV on my other car, just open breathers and I change the oil every 1,000 miles partially because of this.
For those of you with the black intake tract, what kind of oil are you running? I've been running the Amsoil ACD for most of the car's life which is a grp IV/V and my intake still looks new.
#15
Banned
Thread Starter
It's very important over the life of the car to keep acids and crap reduced in the crank case. The ultimate solution is to install a filter/seperator and then routh it back into the stock location. At that point the intake tract is only seeing clean air and not oil/fuel vapors. You do need it for proper circulation of crancase vapors.
I don't run a PCV on my other car, just open breathers and I change the oil every 1,000 miles partially because of this.
For those of you with the black intake tract, what kind of oil are you running? I've been running the Amsoil ACD for most of the car's life which is a grp IV/V and my intake still looks new.
I don't run a PCV on my other car, just open breathers and I change the oil every 1,000 miles partially because of this.
For those of you with the black intake tract, what kind of oil are you running? I've been running the Amsoil ACD for most of the car's life which is a grp IV/V and my intake still looks new.
#17
Team Owner
Google "catch can" or "oil separator". You can buy one or make your own. Some people use water separators for compressed air lines. It's the best of both worlds, you get the PCV action through the crankcase but only clean air gets into the intake. If you get a clear one, you will be able to see all of the water/fuel/oil/crud that it's stopping from going through the intake. This is something I've been meaning to do for a while now.
#18
Banned
Thread Starter
Google "catch can" or "oil separator". You can buy one or make your own. Some people use water separators for compressed air lines. It's the best of both worlds, you get the PCV action through the crankcase but only clean air gets into the intake. If you get a clear one, you will be able to see all of the water/fuel/oil/crud that it's stopping from going through the intake. This is something I've been meaning to do for a while now.
#19
Green Machine
iTrader: (3)
Google "catch can" or "oil separator". You can buy one or make your own. Some people use water separators for compressed air lines. It's the best of both worlds, you get the PCV action through the crankcase but only clean air gets into the intake. If you get a clear one, you will be able to see all of the water/fuel/oil/crud that it's stopping from going through the intake. This is something I've been meaning to do for a while now.
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-tsx-performance-parts-modifications-126/oil-catch-can-anyone-650649/
#23
Green Machine
iTrader: (3)
I did it.....
I read the thread link below for the TSX guys oil catch can set up; and decided to do this. I got all the parts listed below with the exception of the hose; got that at Napa. It looks just like the one in the ebay link, but it only cost me less than $20 bucks. It seems to work just fine so far.
Call me crazy, but my car feels like it has more pep. I did not expect that; maybe it's in my mind. But I know my car and it feels different. I even ordered a new PCV valve from a local acura store; I will install that tomorrow when it gets here. I will post up pics tomorrow (too dark now).
The fuel line hose - part no. 301018 (3/8" I.D. X 2 ft.) - $3.49 @ Pep Boys.
NPT Attachment - UPC#: (0)4556420579(9) - 1/4" NPT male and 3/8" female - $1.19 @ Home Depot located in the air compressor/tools department.
Metal screw clamps - UPC#: (0)7857516306(2) - Size 06, 10-22mm - $0.89 @ Home Depot plumbing section.
Mini General Purpose Filter - USA SKU: 401-910, CAN SKU: 131-688 - Husky brand NDC #: (0)4556460664(0) - $11.97 @ Home Depot located in the air compressor/tools department.
How's that Xizor?
Call me crazy, but my car feels like it has more pep. I did not expect that; maybe it's in my mind. But I know my car and it feels different. I even ordered a new PCV valve from a local acura store; I will install that tomorrow when it gets here. I will post up pics tomorrow (too dark now).
Google "catch can" or "oil separator". You can buy one or make your own. Some people use water separators for compressed air lines. It's the best of both worlds, you get the PCV action through the crankcase but only clean air gets into the intake. If you get a clear one, you will be able to see all of the water/fuel/oil/crud that it's stopping from going through the intake. This is something I've been meaning to do for a while now.
Looks like the TSX guys had this same idea before. Can this work on our TL's as well?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=650649
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=650649
Found this one on ebay; anyone knows if this will work?
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-67...d=120432861229
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-67...d=120432861229
The fuel line hose - part no. 301018 (3/8" I.D. X 2 ft.) - $3.49 @ Pep Boys.
NPT Attachment - UPC#: (0)4556420579(9) - 1/4" NPT male and 3/8" female - $1.19 @ Home Depot located in the air compressor/tools department.
Metal screw clamps - UPC#: (0)7857516306(2) - Size 06, 10-22mm - $0.89 @ Home Depot plumbing section.
Mini General Purpose Filter - USA SKU: 401-910, CAN SKU: 131-688 - Husky brand NDC #: (0)4556460664(0) - $11.97 @ Home Depot located in the air compressor/tools department.
How's that Xizor?
#27
Team Owner
Very nice! Keep us updated on how much stuff accumulates in there. Makes me want to do one.
#28
practicing nihilist
did the 2" IM spacer mod couple days ago. Pretty black in the EGR collection chamber, brownish yellow stain in the rest of the ports and runners and the small circle port under the EGR collection chamber were pretty gunked up.
I spit shined all the components and Seafoamed about 20K miles ago when I installed P2R spacers.
*note: most of the names for the IM chambers and such above are completely made up. Hope someone understands what the hell I meant.
I spit shined all the components and Seafoamed about 20K miles ago when I installed P2R spacers.
*note: most of the names for the IM chambers and such above are completely made up. Hope someone understands what the hell I meant.
#30
practicing nihilist
Its been about 15K miles since I last dug into my IM and cleaned it. The EGR chamber was black, runner were brown and gunky and the small, circilar EGR port was caked pretty bad around the edges. I freakin hate EGR systems. Having a ton of issues with that system on my wifes Pilot.
#31
Team Owner
Its been about 15K miles since I last dug into my IM and cleaned it. The EGR chamber was black, runner were brown and gunky and the small, circilar EGR port was caked pretty bad around the edges. I freakin hate EGR systems. Having a ton of issues with that system on my wifes Pilot.
#32
Team Owner
On a more serious note, intake manifold junk is where the new nitrogen enhanced Shell fuels are supposed to shine. Supposedly it was made to combat all the DI intake port carbon problems Porsche, Audi, and VW are having.
#34
Green Machine
iTrader: (3)
Update....
Almost 400 miles, and I only have a tiny bit of oil film on the inside of the collector. I don't know if that contributes to the new PCV valve or not. My car still feels pretty good since the install. Don't know if that is because of the separator, but I like it.
#35
Safety Car
wow u know.....i dont know if its me or the valve...i changed mine this weekend....after 90k and never changing it...and the car seems a tiny bit healthier....but im sure once the valves are tightened and the water pump n belt and tensioner are all changed thatll make a world of difference.
#37
practicing nihilist
that's a good amount of potential sludge for 500 miles. I've been digging in my IM a lot lately and even after a couple K miles it needs to be scrubbed out again.
#39
04' tl 6 spd