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Thanks guys, i dont know what"s left to do without forced induction, i am in the perfect position right now to do the cams and then dyno so we can finally know what we get out of them, we will see what happens. I really want to work on getting a company to get us a tune that is good and lasts because from what i understand we really dont have one that works but for some reason they make a hondata for an RDX.....Really?? any advice on what i should do next or tuning (especially) is appreciated
Happy birthday Ant! Sorry I didn't make it out tonight. Me and my girl are coming out next Friday for sure.
As far as your next mods are concerned, I'd say go for a bigger throttle body and ported intake manifold. My mani gave me good power and with a bigger TB it would make an even bigger difference.
Tuning can be done with the AEM FIC. People have gotten good gains from them on the Accords and they don't detune like the Apexi NEO. Paul has something in the works too that should help us NA guys with tuning the FIC.
The TL-s cams should give a decent amount of power, yet much better with tuning. Honestly, if you are going to stay NA I would do a set of custom cams. If you plan on going boosted, the TL-s cams wouldn't be a bad idea. They are only slightly more aggressive than your cams though.
My 3" exhaust should give me some power, plus a custom Jpipe with a 3" collector. I will let you know how the gains feel when I get it. Also, porting the lower intake runners along with the ported intake manifold and bigger TB should unleash some potential. My boy in his 5AT Accord with all our mods plus bored TB, ported lower runners, ported intake manifold, and the AEM FIC put down like 262whp and 235wtq...and that's with the 3.0 motor AND automatic.
One mod we have to do one weekend is the slave cylinder check valve delete. Basically when we shift fast, there is a delay from when we drop the clutch pedal and the power actually getting to the ground. By taking it out it puts the power to the ground immediately.
I'm going out to DPA next Friday without a doubt but I'm sure I'll talk to you before then.
Btw, I'm happy you dyno'd that much, gives me hope to break 250whp
As far as your next mods are concerned, I'd say go for a bigger throttle body and ported intake manifold. My mani gave me good power and with a bigger TB it would make an even bigger difference.
Tuning can be done with the AEM FIC. People have gotten good gains from them on the Accords and they don't detune like the Apexi NEO. Paul has something in the works too that should help us NA guys with tuning the FIC.
The TL-s cams should give a decent amount of power, yet much better with tuning. Honestly, if you are going to stay NA I would do a set of custom cams. If you plan on going boosted, the TL-s cams wouldn't be a bad idea. They are only slightly more aggressive than your cams though.
My 3" exhaust should give me some power, plus a custom Jpipe with a 3" collector. I will let you know how the gains feel when I get it. Also, porting the lower intake runners along with the ported intake manifold and bigger TB should unleash some potential. My boy in his 5AT Accord with all our mods plus bored TB, ported lower runners, ported intake manifold, and the AEM FIC put down like 262whp and 235wtq...and that's with the 3.0 motor AND automatic.
One mod we have to do one weekend is the slave cylinder check valve delete. Basically when we shift fast, there is a delay from when we drop the clutch pedal and the power actually getting to the ground. By taking it out it puts the power to the ground immediately.
I'm going out to DPA next Friday without a doubt but I'm sure I'll talk to you before then.
Btw, I'm happy you dyno'd that much, gives me hope to break 250whp
Yeah i recommend this place. It's $100 for 3 pulls, this is the 2nd time i have been there...send me a private message when your gonna go and i will come chill if you like
After the mani and intake runners I wouldn't be surprised to see him around 285-290. With a tune, 300whp. Wooot!
I'm gonna dyno over there pretty soon too. I may wait til I do the 3" exhaust (STILL waiting). I'm expecting 250whp now that I saw his numbers

CAI/Jpipe/Exhaust/PCDs/Ported IM
Ant maybe when I get my 3" exhaust we can put it on your car and dyno to see if it makes a difference lol.
Sure are! 240wtq too.
After the mani and intake runners I wouldn't be surprised to see him around 285-290. With a tune, 300whp. Wooot!
I'm gonna dyno over there pretty soon too. I may wait til I do the 3" exhaust (STILL waiting). I'm expecting 250whp now that I saw his numbers
CAI/Jpipe/Exhaust/PCDs/Ported IM
Ant maybe when I get my 3" exhaust we can put it on your car and dyno to see if it makes a difference lol.
After the mani and intake runners I wouldn't be surprised to see him around 285-290. With a tune, 300whp. Wooot!
I'm gonna dyno over there pretty soon too. I may wait til I do the 3" exhaust (STILL waiting). I'm expecting 250whp now that I saw his numbers

CAI/Jpipe/Exhaust/PCDs/Ported IM
Ant maybe when I get my 3" exhaust we can put it on your car and dyno to see if it makes a difference lol.
I gotta start looking for a dyno here in Charlotte, I'm sure they got one somewhere
^^^From what I understand we don't have a decent one in charlotte. The fayetteville crew knows of one close to them that does good with their TL's.
I went to one in concord and they did it in the wrong gear. And then they didn't admit it was their screw up and said that theirs was the most correct dyno and all others suck. Dummies. I pulled a 198hp in 3rd gear WITH MODS. It would have been higher if they did it in 4th gear like they're supposed to.
I went to one in concord and they did it in the wrong gear. And then they didn't admit it was their screw up and said that theirs was the most correct dyno and all others suck. Dummies. I pulled a 198hp in 3rd gear WITH MODS. It would have been higher if they did it in 4th gear like they're supposed to.
For the MT, you want to be in the gear that has a ratio closest to 1, which is 4th for the TL.
hmm...very nice numbers indeed and thats awesome..but help me understand something- i as well noticed that after 6K rpm, little or no gains or pulling actions at all. If "VTEC" begins at 5500, its as if we only see 400rmp's (a split second)of pulling action in vtec....shouldn't we see a strong amount pull from 5500 all the way to redline?
hmm...very nice numbers indeed and thats awesome..but help me understand something- i as well noticed that after 6K rpm, little or no gains or pulling actions at all. If "VTEC" begins at 5500, its as if we only see 400rmp's (a split second)of pulling action in vtec....shouldn't we see a strong amount pull from 5500 all the way to redline?
I believe VTEC is set @4900RPM from the factory. Either that or 5K. From what I've heard, around 4000RPM is the best place to have it, but of course you need some kind of controller i.e. tune for this. Our motor seems to be choking, why don't we let some air in? Bigger TB, ported IM, ported lower runners...let her breathe a bit. Maybe shaft the cam and bam...then you should pull strong to 7K.
I believe VTEC is set @4900RPM from the factory. Either that or 5K. From what I've heard, around 4000RPM is the best place to have it, but of course you need some kind of controller i.e. tune for this. Our motor seems to be choking, why don't we let some air in? Bigger TB, ported IM, ported lower runners...let her breathe a bit. Maybe shaft the cam and bam...then you should pull strong to 7K.
I've seen it at 230.
^^ See, I'm just not sold on the Type S cams. I understand they will give us some power, but is it worth it? I feel like an aftermarket cam will give us close to double the power of the TL-s cams. I mean, from the base TL to the Type S is 28hp...it's an extra 0.3L...how much more aggressive could the cams be? For an extra 0.3L AND more aggressive cams, only 28hp? Not cuttin' it for me, sorry.
With aftermarket cams and a good tune I wouldn't be surprised to see over 25whp. It may shift the powerband up SLIGHTLY, but we should start to see gains after 3000RPM. From 3000RPM to redline, if we averaged a 10whp increase and peaking @25whp, that's a HUGE difference. It may be just me, but if you're gonna stay NA, I still think aftermarket cams will be the better choice hands down.
With aftermarket cams and a good tune I wouldn't be surprised to see over 25whp. It may shift the powerband up SLIGHTLY, but we should start to see gains after 3000RPM. From 3000RPM to redline, if we averaged a 10whp increase and peaking @25whp, that's a HUGE difference. It may be just me, but if you're gonna stay NA, I still think aftermarket cams will be the better choice hands down.
^^ See, I'm just not sold on the Type S cams. I understand they will give us some power, but is it worth it? I feel like an aftermarket cam will give us close to double the power of the TL-s cams. I mean, from the base TL to the Type S is 28hp...it's an extra 0.3L...how much more aggressive could the cams be? For an extra 0.3L AND more aggressive cams, only 28hp? Not cuttin' it for me, sorry.
With aftermarket cams and a good tune I wouldn't be surprised to see over 25whp. It may shift the powerband up SLIGHTLY, but we should start to see gains after 3000RPM. From 3000RPM to redline, if we averaged a 10whp increase and peaking @25whp, that's a HUGE difference. It may be just me, but if you're gonna stay NA, I still think aftermarket cams will be the better choice hands down.
With aftermarket cams and a good tune I wouldn't be surprised to see over 25whp. It may shift the powerband up SLIGHTLY, but we should start to see gains after 3000RPM. From 3000RPM to redline, if we averaged a 10whp increase and peaking @25whp, that's a HUGE difference. It may be just me, but if you're gonna stay NA, I still think aftermarket cams will be the better choice hands down.
Alright so this is weird, i dyno'ed today with the same mods on a dynojet and came up with 205 whp and about 199 wtq....wtf? so then i went to another shop obviously because i was pissed and i dyno'ed 231 whp...forgot what the tq was but anyway, i do not feel a loss of power at all and i even raced my boy with a 370Z and yeah he won (he has 339 whp & we went from basically a roll) he beat me obviously but not enough to justify apparently having 100 more whp than me....any help on solving this problem is appreciated. Like i said i feel no loss of power what so ever, no check engine light.....the only thing that seems to be a little bit of a problem is my exhaust sounds slightly quieter...i dunno guys please help me out....thanks. Oh BTW i was dynoing again to see if the throttle body spacer actually gives up power or takes power away.
dyno jet and dyno dynamics dynos read completely different. you can not get a dyno on a mustang then one on a dynojet to compare. it has to be the same type(and preferably place) every time you get a dyno done. not to mention every shop has their dyno calibrated at different times. one could of been done a week ago, and another a year ago, you never know since people are never honest
also you exhaust will quiet down once there is some carbon build up along the pipes. even though some people say it gets louder, i think it gets quieter. either that or your use to it
also you exhaust will quiet down once there is some carbon build up along the pipes. even though some people say it gets louder, i think it gets quieter. either that or your use to it
also you are forgetting the factor of the weather. air could be very dense today compared to previous times, also warmer/colder, and humidity
there are a million and 3 factors when comparing dyno's, thats why dynos dont mean shit. and you really can not compare numbers against another person across the country
there are a million and 3 factors when comparing dyno's, thats why dynos dont mean shit. and you really can not compare numbers against another person across the country
This is one of the reasons that I recommend a OBDII logger versus a chassis dyno. Not to mention convenience.
I keep records of how much time it takes my car to accelerate at wot. The results are very repeatable. After a race, I can review my log and see how I was performing.
This is a big help if you are a paranoid person like myself. Is my car still running up to par? Did my last mod make me slower or quicker?
I don’t even need to do a full run thru a gear. Anytime I go wot for more than approx 2 seconds or longer, I have enough data to determine how much relative power I am putting to the ground.
Granted that you need level roads. I am Houston…… all we have is flat land
And, granted it is hard to brag that you accelerate from 40-50 mph in x number of seconds. But for benchmarking your car’s performance to gauge your mods, it is great. Plus, it is fun to “paper race” your car’s acceleration with published performance data of popular factory automobiles. It is easy to find MPH versus Time data on the internet of factory automobiles.
I keep records of how much time it takes my car to accelerate at wot. The results are very repeatable. After a race, I can review my log and see how I was performing.
This is a big help if you are a paranoid person like myself. Is my car still running up to par? Did my last mod make me slower or quicker?
I don’t even need to do a full run thru a gear. Anytime I go wot for more than approx 2 seconds or longer, I have enough data to determine how much relative power I am putting to the ground.
Granted that you need level roads. I am Houston…… all we have is flat land

And, granted it is hard to brag that you accelerate from 40-50 mph in x number of seconds. But for benchmarking your car’s performance to gauge your mods, it is great. Plus, it is fun to “paper race” your car’s acceleration with published performance data of popular factory automobiles. It is easy to find MPH versus Time data on the internet of factory automobiles.





