stevenr

I have a 6MT with 35K miles and I need to replace pads asap. The rotor surfaces are smooth, with no ridges. I do have a ridge on the outer most portion of the front rotor, where the pad has been wearing down the rotor.

Typically, I replace the rotors with every pad change, but with the price of rotors, I would like get more than 35K before I spend another $500. If I don't turn the rotors, I plan to use the same OEM pad, so that I don't have any material incompatibility issues (regarding material on rotor surface).

subinf

i would usually say yes, but last week i was in a rush to get the new pads on my car. i pulled the rotors to turn them and our lathe broke before i was able to start. i just put the rotors back on with the new pads. dont have any problems. usually you might run into some vibration issues. also might just want to check and make sure you are still above the max. thickness (as you should do anyway). its been about 1000 miles and no problems.

ImPo Skyline

I'd replace pads on or right before the wear indicator. You can re-use your rotors until they are worn to minimum thickness designated by the manufacturer. It should say on the rotor what the minimum thickness for re-use or re-surface. It's a good idea to have your rotors re-surfaced or "turned" every pad change but it's not mandatory.

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, unless it's at the minimum thickness, or you're getting vibrations under braking, I think you'll be fine.

ttliang

i always get my rotors cut everytime i change pads. all my previous Honda got "brake shimmy" when i cut corners (smaller rotors maybe) at least for me. by the time they got shimmy, you'd have to replace the pads too even if you cut roters cuz the ridges developed on the pads. i'd inspect thickness everytime before I get them cut. too thin then replace. i guess "turn" them will work too i just never tried that before.

stevenr

I really don't have "ridges" on my rotors, which is why I am hesitant to get them turned. I don't have any brake judder either.

The "stealer" indicates that you need a special tool to compress the Brembo calipers (of course), so I don't want the dealer to turn the rotors unless they need to.

I would hope that they are not below minimum thickness at 35K miles.

subinf

the pads take about 20 min a side to replace. there was a write up with pics on how to do it if you are not planning on taking the rotor off. if you do install new pads and notice shudder or anything else when driving and braking then take the rotors off and have them machined.

subinf

turning/cutting/resurfacing/machining/etc are all the same thing some people just use one term over the other but they all involve measuring the rotor thickness..if putting the rotor on the lathe will not take the thickness below the rec. then usually they will do that. goes by a lot of different names.

ttliang

i am not sure about these 6mt rotors (i only got 18K. no need to check thickness yet). last time i checked my TL-S front at about 32K they were well above the min. my previous accord at 80K+ (can't remember exactly) after two cuts were still above min. i can't see rotors go below min just from regular driving and regular pads. unless u autocross than all bets are off...